The units are K-ohms not ohms, so the reading is 4K (4,000 ohm) not 4 ohm. Also this is the base resistance of the sensor (blue to black) and won't change with position adjustment, (yellow to black) is the test for the varying resistance from full-closed to full-open, also in K-ohm. The other common fault with TPSs is that the reading can often be erratic as the throttle is opened and closed, it should rise and fall smoothly, don't just look at the min and max readings.
Good video but also the reading will go down as you open the throttle and if you get a glitchy spot in your reading as you twist the throtle it will mean that you have a wore spot in the tips which can cause trouble at the rpms where the glitch is.
I know you asked this forever ago but I believe the correct way to test the switch is with the engine running and it's in Volts not Ohms, at least in my manual for my FCR carb which is the same as the one in the video. I think he is just doing a simple test to see if it is good or not but that's just the start.
justin Bivelacque ...depends on the bike. The DRZ400E uses an FCR39 carburettor, and the Factory Service Manual specifically states to measure it in Ohms, and with the throttle fully open the TPS should be rotated until the ohms reading is within the specified range, then the tps is locked down.
I have a TRX450ER 2006 and the tps is hanging under the hood outside the throttle would it affect the bike when you run with it outside and what is the function of the tps
well rebuilt the carburetors and replaced gaskets needles and valves but its still leaking and i cant find a 1988 carburetor that does not need to be cleaned and they are still 150 to 400 and im not looking to spend that much for a used carb
Just out of couriosity I checked my tps on my 93 mazda mpv.It checks out ok at closed throttle,but it goes out of range on 20k over half throttle.I have stalling at startup ,but I dont think that would have anything to do with cold starts.
i have a 1988 suzuki katana gsx600f street bike and i cant find a carburetor anywhere my carburetor is done for so i can repair it but i found a carburetor from a 2000 suzuki katana gsx600 and i was wondering since the 1988 model never used tps will the carburetor still work the way it should 1988 model does not have tps and that being said i cant plug the 2000 tps into the bike there is no connectors for it.i think it wil work but im spending my last money to buy it and dont want to risk it TY
thats how u test a tps but u shouldnt tell ppl to move it without giving them the proper way to set the ohms at idle theres a little more to it then just 4-6 kohms
I have the same exact carb and tps. My static reading is 4.33 ohms. My variable readings are .52 - 3.74 ohms. The tps does reach the minimum 4 ohms on the variable test. the bike has a slight sputtering issue at just off idle to 1/4 throttle. Could this be causing the sputter/misfire? The sputter disappears when the tps is unplugged.
could a faulty throttle position sensor be the reason for a bike not running right? im having problems with mine its an 03 YZF250 aswel an i have used you vids to do a rebuild and ever since every time i give it gas and let the throttle go the revs dont drop down and i cant get it to idle nicely, if you could tell me any poss reason it would be great i have replaced the rubber manifold and the hose clamps so i dont think its a vacuum leak!
Cuz it's actually about 5 Kohms, not 5 ohms. Also, this test tells you nothing about whether the wiper works only if the resistor coil is still intact.
I want to read ohm values for a sensor , it displays 300 ohms, but if i put multimeter on 'sound' mode to check continuity, it doesnt sound. Could be possible when checking a sensor to dont be continuity there but still good ?
I have a question for you, when setting the oms on the tps sensor were is the starting point, I know as we lower the idle or raze the idle it will change the tps sensor ready, so do i set the idle screw to were i just see the oms begin to move and then set my oms, and then of course when i raze the idle to like 1600 rpms the oms well change, thanks for any info you can supply
Appreciate the video, brother. I got a question for you. I own a 05 650xvs Yamaha V-star Silverado and recently found I have no spark from either plug. I took my tank off and checked both my coil cylinders and both give me a proper secondary reading, but neither gives a primary. I was advised to check my TPS, but when I looked at a downloadable Manual, it says to check it at 1k ohms and my multimeter doesn't have the 1k ohms option. In your video, you said you checked yours at 20k to get your reading. I checked it at 20k and got 5.31 ohms, and the manual says between 4.00 and 6.00 is a good reading, but that is by their 1k ohms setting. It also says I don't only have to unplug it to get to the prongs, but that it must be removed off the carb to get a reading. This is my first time getting courageous enough to strip her down myself, and all the shops I have been to have made a bigger deal of insuring I have a reason to go back, rather than actually helping me. Should I follow the manual and go buy a multimeter with the 1k ohms option and go through the trouble of detaching my duel carbs and TPS, or by your experience and expertise, is my TPS reading properly at the 20k setting, and it is just my coil cylinders that are culprit in my troubles?
Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it and so sorry for the delay! Sounds like you have a "ranged multimeter" like myself so there should be no reason to find one with 1k. Most of them are ranged these days. I'm by no means an expert so just keep that in mind. lol. I would start with the coils for sure though.
Thank you! I had a problem with my regulator and stator, got a bonus at work and just replaced both the above and both coils and plugs, got it all going great and now she doesn't hardly any charge to start, where as before in cold weather she would kill the battery trying to start. Had gone through several batteries, being told it was just the cold cranking amps not being up to par, but it wasn't that at all @.@ lol. Its a lot more simple to work on her than I thought, just had to talk to a few fellow bikers with more experience than myself and stop listening to the algorithm bullcrap the mechanic at the dealership was feeding me. XD Sorry it took me so long to thank you, I just came across this on Google plus lol. Have a good one and ride safe, Brother!
@@wilardcondesa9402 it turned out to be an issue further down the line, the regulator stator rectifier was toast. When I fixed that my issues went away. If you can do it yourself, I'd advise it, as they wanted to charge me like 1000$ to do it, back 8 years ago. If it's a Vstar like mine, you will need a bike jack or some kind, or the ability to tie it standing, as you have to take the kickstand off to get to it.
![How To Test CAN BUS With A Multimeter [CAN Bus Resistance Check] Mechanic Mindset](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JPE42HSJxAk/mqdefault.jpg)
The units are K-ohms not ohms, so the reading is 4K (4,000 ohm) not 4 ohm. Also this is the base resistance of the sensor (blue to black) and won't change with position adjustment, (yellow to black) is the test for the varying resistance from full-closed to full-open, also in K-ohm. The other common fault with TPSs is that the reading can often be erratic as the throttle is opened and closed, it should rise and fall smoothly, don't just look at the min and max readings.
Good video but also the reading will go down as you open the throttle and if you get a glitchy spot in your reading as you twist the throtle it will mean that you have a wore spot in the tips which can cause trouble at the rpms where the glitch is.
The TPS have something to do with the ignition timing? since fuel flow is regulated by the metering jets in the caburetor body.
Awesome video mate. Cheers from Brazil.
Thank you so much. It helps me lot. Buy the way mine is reading 2.4kohm. Is this good?
I replaced mine on a MAsh black seven 125 injection but I cannot find the values is should be set the manual I have of my motorbike doesn't say it
SIMPLE YET INFORMATIVE VIDEO...
Thanks!
4.21 :/ i think is low? or? it is good? after cleaning carb, i have problem with start, it is for this? or not?
My Honda shine tps ohm value is 4.67 and varries when acceleration is to 1.something is good
very good video thanks for posting
@Johnnysshop
Please upload more ! Really good job !!
should`nt there be 2 different readings, my yz manual says (throttle closed) zero - 2ohm (throttle open) 4 - 6ohm. was your throttle open or closed?
I know you asked this forever ago but I believe the correct way to test the switch is with the engine running and it's in Volts not Ohms, at least in my manual for my FCR carb which is the same as the one in the video. I think he is just doing a simple test to see if it is good or not but that's just the start.
My r1 is Blue/Black and Blue 4k to 6k then test the yelow and Blue /Black while opening the throtle slowly
justin Bivelacque ...depends on the bike. The DRZ400E uses an FCR39 carburettor, and the Factory Service Manual specifically states to measure it in Ohms, and with the throttle fully open the TPS should be rotated until the ohms reading is within the specified range, then the tps is locked down.
Thx for the video! Very helpful!
5.07 Thank you!
I have a TRX450ER 2006 and the tps is hanging under the hood outside the throttle would it affect the bike when you run with it outside and what is the function of the tps
I have lifan kpr 200cc
But map sensor settings out
Tell me about setting plz
.
well rebuilt the carburetors and replaced gaskets needles and valves but its still leaking and i cant find a 1988 carburetor that does not need to be cleaned and they are still 150 to 400 and im not looking to spend that much for a used carb
If I go to remove mine is it attached to any springs or anything that I should not pull out or is it simple and safe to just unbolt it???
Should just be able to take it out.
Just out of couriosity I checked my tps on my 93 mazda mpv.It checks out ok at closed throttle,but it goes out of range on 20k over half throttle.I have stalling at startup ,but I dont think that would have anything to do with cold starts.
i have a 1988 suzuki katana gsx600f street bike and i cant find a carburetor anywhere my carburetor is done for so i can repair it but i found a carburetor from a 2000 suzuki katana gsx600 and i was wondering since the 1988 model never used tps will the carburetor still work the way it should 1988 model does not have tps and that being said i cant plug the 2000 tps into the bike there is no connectors for it.i think it wil work but im spending my last money to buy it and dont want to risk it TY
thats how u test a tps but u shouldnt tell ppl to move it without giving them the proper way to set the ohms at idle theres a little more to it then just 4-6 kohms
I have the same exact carb and tps. My static reading is 4.33 ohms. My variable readings are .52 - 3.74 ohms. The tps does reach the minimum 4 ohms on the variable test. the bike has a slight sputtering issue at just off idle to 1/4 throttle. Could this be causing the sputter/misfire? The sputter disappears when the tps is unplugged.
I would say they could for sure be the issue.
Jesse The Baldy Ventura same problem here have you sort it out?
could a faulty throttle position sensor be the reason for a bike not running right?
im having problems with mine its an 03 YZF250 aswel an i have used you vids to do a rebuild and ever since every time i give it gas and let the throttle go the revs dont drop down and i cant get it to idle nicely, if you could tell me any poss reason it would be great i have replaced the rubber manifold and the hose clamps so i dont think its a vacuum leak!
I have exact same issue with my 2003 yz450f. was it the TPS or a leak?
Why did you use the 20K scale?
Cuz it's actually about 5 Kohms, not 5 ohms. Also, this test tells you nothing about whether the wiper works only if the resistor coil is still intact.
I want to read ohm values for a sensor , it displays 300 ohms, but if i put multimeter on 'sound' mode to check continuity, it doesnt sound. Could be possible when checking a sensor to dont be continuity there but still good ?
If you want sound, go with Skynyrd or maybe the Stones. Other times the Who or Ronstadt should be AOK.
My 2000 yzf r1 goes to 3000 rpm and back to 0 over and over again is the code of the tps?
It could be and would be a good place to start.
***** today i cleaned and tuned the tps and now its gone that
awesome !!
im guessing your yzf is fuel injected?
I have a question for you, when setting the oms on the tps sensor were is the starting point, I know as we lower the idle or raze the idle it will change the tps sensor ready, so do i set the idle screw to were i just see the oms begin to move and then set my oms, and then of course when i raze the idle to like 1600 rpms the oms well change, thanks for any info you can supply
Aider moi a voire beaucoup des détails électrique
Appreciate the video, brother. I got a question for you. I own a 05 650xvs Yamaha V-star Silverado and recently found I have no spark from either plug. I took my tank off and checked both my coil cylinders and both give me a proper secondary reading, but neither gives a primary. I was advised to check my TPS, but when I looked at a downloadable Manual, it says to check it at 1k ohms and my multimeter doesn't have the 1k ohms option. In your video, you said you checked yours at 20k to get your reading. I checked it at 20k and got 5.31 ohms, and the manual says between 4.00 and 6.00 is a good reading, but that is by their 1k ohms setting. It also says I don't only have to unplug it to get to the prongs, but that it must be removed off the carb to get a reading.
This is my first time getting courageous enough to strip her down myself, and all the shops I have been to have made a bigger deal of insuring I have a reason to go back, rather than actually helping me.
Should I follow the manual and go buy a multimeter with the 1k ohms option and go through the trouble of detaching my duel carbs and TPS, or by your experience and expertise, is my TPS reading properly at the 20k setting, and it is just my coil cylinders that are culprit in my troubles?
Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it and so sorry for the delay! Sounds like you have a "ranged multimeter" like myself so there should be no reason to find one with 1k. Most of them are ranged these days. I'm by no means an expert so just keep that in mind. lol. I would start with the coils for sure though.
Thank you! I had a problem with my regulator and stator, got a bonus at work and just replaced both the above and both coils and plugs, got it all going great and now she doesn't hardly any charge to start, where as before in cold weather she would kill the battery trying to start. Had gone through several batteries, being told it was just the cold cranking amps not being up to par, but it wasn't that at all @.@ lol. Its a lot more simple to work on her than I thought, just had to talk to a few fellow bikers with more experience than myself and stop listening to the algorithm bullcrap the mechanic at the dealership was feeding me. XD Sorry it took me so long to thank you, I just came across this on Google plus lol. Have a good one and ride safe, Brother!
@@xyphiravos9306 hi,its been long, have same issue,have u solved this problem?thanks
@@wilardcondesa9402 it turned out to be an issue further down the line, the regulator stator rectifier was toast.
When I fixed that my issues went away.
If you can do it yourself, I'd advise it, as they wanted to charge me like 1000$ to do it, back 8 years ago. If it's a Vstar like mine, you will need a bike jack or some kind, or the ability to tie it standing, as you have to take the kickstand off to get to it.
@@aquietsojourner4683 thanks a lot bro...
is the tps spring loaded?
Road Troller have you sort it? Reading higher but when spring is not loaded..
where do I get that monometer/multimeter (sp?) from
Any auto store, most hardware stores, Harbor Freight, etc
Whats an ohm?
Its resistence scale
@nothorwitzer I'm guessing no cause i see a choke nob. :P