New subscriber, I really enjoy your videos. Very informative, great sense of humor. I’m 50, and I could not agree more with what I heard you say on another video “If you learn to work with what you got, you’ll always have what you need”. So many people want to go buy stuff, they don’t take the time to understand how things work, and how they can be fixed. I guess it’s a generational thing. Thank you for the information.
Nice to see old school welders again.....I grew up fixing and splicing my welding cables......these days a lot of guy just replace everything......man these days every penny counts in business
Can probably pick up a good deal from these guys discarding "old, worn out" welding leads that they think are worn out, when in fact maybe over half the lead is still in remarkably good shape. In some cases, that's got to be at least 10 feet of perfectly good, usable lead material.
In addition to my main machine on my welding truck. I have a Lincoln ranger 305g and I have a skid for it that locks up securely and can be left on site. And it can be moved with a crane or forklift. Then I also have a 4 wheeled cart for it that I can roll it around inside buildings. I don't use them alot but when I need them they sure do come in handy. Pretty slick way of joining cables I haven't seen it done that way before. Thank you for showing.
Good information- so it's interesting to me that the copper will tend to "burn" from the stinger end, but as you move back toward the machine the copper becomes less and less burnt, and eventually looks new- I guess that's because the current coming back up the stick is maybe "hotter" right there at the end, and then that heat dissipates as the current moves back to the machine? And this is assuming DCEP polarity, obviously.
was wondering what that was all about- thank you for the explanation- makes perfect sense, as there's always a perfectly logical reason a good and smart welder does anything like this.
Current(amps) or electrons flow on the outside diameter of the cable. The bigger the cable the more area current/amp/electrons can flow on. If the wire is dark or black it will cause resistance in the cable. A sure sign of excessive resistance is the stinger getting hot after burning 4 to 6 electrodes.
Does that mean a braided copper wire that's hollow on the inside like the steel jacket on brake lines would be the most efficient use of material to move a given amperage, or do you need the thermal mass of the core to keep it cool?
@@itsourenitysolid wire is necessary to keep heat and resistance low. Most the electrons flow on the outside of the wire. Some electrons flow in the core but most flow on the surface. The solid wire helps dissipate heat as amps go up. Length also plays a huge factor in resistance. Try welding 250 amps with 6 gauge wire that is 50 feet long. The resistance will increase and eventually melt the cables. Also, keep in mind the power source is trying to put out set amperage, if the cables can’t handle the load, either from high resistance or small cables, damaged will occur to the power source. This is especially true for inverters.
Always learn and enjoy ur Vidjeos man so thank you again fer sharing ur journey and MERRY CHRISTMAS from my Family to urs. Be safe out there champ them streets anint playing
Splicing is fine, but to carry the full current you need to kind of 'jam splice' the wire, 'fluff' both ends to be joined after cleaning and fluxing, but squeeze back into round shapes that are loose with the inner and outer strands spread out somewhat, and shove one end into the other, mixing strands throughout of both, then solder, and you can add strength by also soldering a few extra twisted strands that are same length to the outside before insulating the splice. Current travels along the surface of a wire, not the center, that's why more fine strands carry more than regular stranded electrical wire, the more strands, the more total circular mils of surface you get, splicing only to the outer wires in bundles reduces the usable circular mils.
@NBSWelding --- What kind of reels do you have on the super service truck? I am looking for a reel that will hold 100' for 3 /16" or 1/4" oxy\acetylene hose. Looked at Aluma Reels but yikes, I was a little shocked by the price.
Leads are on Reelcraft and they have done very well...potentiometer is on a Tidweld and it's done good for me too The only bad reels I've had were Cox Reels...those things are junk
Welding leads on the Super Service Truck are on Reelcraft Reels...potentiometer is on a Tidweld Had Cox in the past and found that Cox Reels are no good
Leads are on Reelcraft Reels...potentiometer is on a Tidweld...those have all been great reels for me Only reels I've had trouble with were Cox Reels...they are junk
Why did you use a smaller guage wite to go to stinger, but then built it up to fit tightly inside it? Kinda counter produtive isn't it? I'm not a welder but i am curious why that was done. 🔌🔋⚡💥💨🇺🇸🛠️🔧🔩🤔👌🏻👍🏻🍻☃️
The splice that guy is talking about below is like if you'd spread all your fingers & thumb apart on both hands. Then putting your 2 hands together so all digits are intertwined together. Fingers being the individual copper strands. Hope that helps. 👍🏻👌🏻⚡🔌💥
New subscriber, I really enjoy your videos. Very informative, great sense of humor. I’m 50, and I could not agree more with what I heard you say on another video
“If you learn to work with what you got, you’ll always have what you need”. So many people want to go buy stuff, they don’t take the time to understand how things work, and how they can be fixed. I guess it’s a generational thing. Thank you for the information.
Thanks! You’re the only guy who made it make sense to me.
C.B., saving money, I like it ! Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing !!! 👍👍👍
You bet
Nice to see old school welders again.....I grew up fixing and splicing my welding cables......these days a lot of guy just replace everything......man these days every penny counts in business
Can probably pick up a good deal from these guys discarding "old, worn out" welding leads that they think are worn out, when in fact maybe over half the lead is still in remarkably good shape. In some cases, that's got to be at least 10 feet of perfectly good, usable lead material.
Thank you. You showed me exactly what I wanted to know.
You are welcome!
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In addition to my main machine on my welding truck. I have a Lincoln ranger 305g and I have a skid for it that locks up securely and can be left on site. And it can be moved with a crane or forklift. Then I also have a 4 wheeled cart for it that I can roll it around inside buildings. I don't use them alot but when I need them they sure do come in handy. Pretty slick way of joining cables I haven't seen it done that way before. Thank you for showing.
Thanks for the tips on repairing the cable
Glad to help
Good information- so it's interesting to me that the copper will tend to "burn" from the stinger end, but as you move back toward the machine the copper becomes less and less burnt, and eventually looks new- I guess that's because the current coming back up the stick is maybe "hotter" right there at the end, and then that heat dissipates as the current moves back to the machine? And this is assuming DCEP polarity, obviously.
Yes....you got it
Guys, CB used stainless steel wire to wrap the copper before soldering. Solder won't stick to stainless. Then unwrap it and discard it.
Correct
Learn something new every day. Thank you for pointing that out.
guy748....
7:39 start the video at this time. See what is happening!
was wondering what that was all about- thank you for the explanation- makes perfect sense, as there's always a perfectly logical reason a good and smart welder does anything like this.
The belt buckle in the infomercial is over the top cool...
Current(amps) or electrons flow on the outside diameter of the cable. The bigger the cable the more area current/amp/electrons can flow on. If the wire is dark or black it will cause resistance in the cable. A sure sign of excessive resistance is the stinger getting hot after burning 4 to 6 electrodes.
Does that mean a braided copper wire that's hollow on the inside like the steel jacket on brake lines would be the most efficient use of material to move a given amperage, or do you need the thermal mass of the core to keep it cool?
@@itsourenitysolid wire is necessary to keep heat and resistance low. Most the electrons flow on the outside of the wire. Some electrons flow in the core but most flow on the surface. The solid wire helps dissipate heat as amps go up. Length also plays a huge factor in resistance. Try welding 250 amps with 6 gauge wire that is 50 feet long. The resistance will increase and eventually melt the cables. Also, keep in mind the power source is trying to put out set amperage, if the cables can’t handle the load, either from high resistance or small cables, damaged will occur to the power source. This is especially true for inverters.
Always learn and enjoy ur Vidjeos man so thank you again fer sharing ur journey and MERRY CHRISTMAS from my Family to urs. Be safe out there champ them streets anint playing
Splicing is fine, but to carry the full current you need to kind of 'jam splice' the wire, 'fluff' both ends to be joined after cleaning and fluxing, but squeeze back into round shapes that are loose with the inner and outer strands spread out somewhat, and shove one end into the other, mixing strands throughout of both, then solder, and you can add strength by also soldering a few extra twisted strands that are same length to the outside before insulating the splice.
Current travels along the surface of a wire, not the center, that's why more fine strands carry more than regular stranded electrical wire, the more strands, the more total circular mils of surface you get, splicing only to the outer wires in bundles reduces the usable circular mils.
Can you post a video showing how the jam splice is done?
Good information......thanks.
My dads machine can beat up your dads machine. 😂😂😂
👍
@NBSWelding --- What kind of reels do you have on the super service truck? I am looking for a reel that will hold 100' for 3 /16" or 1/4" oxy\acetylene hose. Looked at Aluma Reels but yikes, I was a little shocked by the price.
Leads are on Reelcraft and they have done very well...potentiometer is on a Tidweld and it's done good for me too
The only bad reels I've had were Cox Reels...those things are junk
@@NBSWELDING Thank You for the feedback. I will jump out and look at Reelcraft for the oxy/ acetylene.
That was a very informative video , thanks that’s great to know cheers. Love the shirt, you posting to Australia 6174 perth
What kind of reels you got
Welding leads on the Super Service Truck are on Reelcraft Reels...potentiometer is on a Tidweld
Had Cox in the past and found that Cox Reels are no good
What kind of lead reels are those ? I like them thanks in advance. 13:15
Leads are on Reelcraft Reels...potentiometer is on a Tidweld...those have all been great reels for me
Only reels I've had trouble with were Cox Reels...they are junk
Why did you use a smaller guage wite to go to stinger, but then built it up to fit tightly inside it? Kinda counter produtive isn't it? I'm not a welder but i am curious why that was done. 🔌🔋⚡💥💨🇺🇸🛠️🔧🔩🤔👌🏻👍🏻🍻☃️
The splice that guy is talking about below is like if you'd spread all your fingers & thumb apart on both hands. Then putting your 2 hands together so all digits are intertwined together. Fingers being the individual copper strands. Hope that helps. 👍🏻👌🏻⚡🔌💥
Larger cable for current capacity and smaller wire on the end becouse it is lighter and more flexable. It reduces fatigue.
Correct