Just ordered the Radiator for 2010 4.0 Sport trac. I find your video to be the best on You Tube for this repair. I will let You know how the repair goes!!!!
Many thanks for the video. My 2006 explorer developed bad leaks ( 2gallons of water for a trip to work and home 30 miles). I looked around several shops near me and they wanted between $900 -$1100. I went on TH-cam, watched several others then yours. I decided to go for it. I purchased the rad and tool. 4 hours and only 200 bucks out of pocket,all in and back running. Many thanks .
I figured out a neat trick a few days ago while working on a friend's Explorer. When you're removing the transmission cooler lines from radiator, your instinct will be to grip the removal tool as tightly as possible, as if you are trying to cut through a piece of thick wire. Actually, if you're using the scissor type removal tool, then what you want to do is just the opposite. Instead of clamping the tool down onto the tube as tightly as possible, what you want to do is try to open it just a little bit once you slip it inside the fitting. This way the tool has a better chance of actually releasing the retainer tang away from the lip on the tube. If you grip the tool too tightly, then you are just working against yourself.
@@adamanderson8631 I was considering ordering some 1/2" hose barbs with an 18MM x 1.5 pitch thread, and then using 1/2" power steering return hose to connect hose barbs to remaining steel tubes, after I cut and flared the ends of steel tubes. I was just about to go this route, when I decided to give it one more try. Glad I gave it one more try and didn't end up cutting lines and patching it together with hose barbs and power-steering return hose.
@@gustavbabic5004 my buddy and I did exactly what you were wanting to do, and it ended up not holding for very long and had to go get new lines because we of course ruined the ones that were on there
@@justinl9677 If you get the right size fittings, then it should work. I've done similar things on other vehicles, but it is always best to have the correct type of lines if you can manage it. .
A key point here is that those mounting rails for the radiator are designed to be put on from the side. You can't really tell until you get it apart, but it's physically impossible to just lift the radiator straight up and out of the brackets. You have to kinda shimmy one side of the radiator free of the bracket, then the other side. Same goes for putting the radiator back in (which was much more difficult). You have to kinda put one side of the radiator partway into the bracket for that side, then rotate the opposite side of the radiator forward a bit (toward the firewall), so you have clearance to slide the bracket onto that side of the radiator. If you're looking from above, facing the windshield, imagine the left side being the hinged side of a door. You shimmy the radiator into the bracket for that side, then "open the door"...rotate the opposite side of the radiator toward the firewall, while keeping the "hinged" side stationary. Slip the bracket onto the "doorknob" end of the door, then "close the door"....rotate the opposite side of the radiator back toward the front bumper. Then you hafta just to maneuver the whole assembly back into place and make sure the mounting rails land flush right in the middle of those mounting receptacles on the frame. A1 Auto did a video where they take off the fan and that gives you more room to take the radiator and the rails out (and back in) as a single assembly.
long story short, it's a beast and it's NOT an exact science. I had to try a few different methods (from above and below) of twisting the mounting rails in different directions until I got the radiator back in. Getting both sides to fully seat into the grove at the bottom of the rails is tricky as well. It's not you. Take a breath, think it through, and try again.
First, great video! Extremely helpful with my pain in rear vehicle. Just a heads up as I learned the hard way not to place any tools on the battery when working on the vehicle.
Nice video Adam. Glad you mentioned topping off the transmission fluid in your comments. They make it kind of hard to do in an 2007. I also splurged on an extra tool to remove my fan which gave me more clearance to the rear. Thanks very much.
It was just the radiator and it came from the local parts store as i was going out of town the nexy day. Came with a lifetime warranty so hopefully I won't have to do it again or at minimum pay for it twice.
@@adamanderson8631 I had to order a radiator recently and checked the price online and the local parts stores. Online was almost half of the major name parts stores even with next day delivery. It's crazy how expensive they are over ordering online.
Oh i know, i usually order online but this one snuck up on me. Luckily i do have a commercial account at the local parts place so i get a little discount so it doesn't sting quite so bad.
Replaced my radiator today which I fot from Autozone. The first lasted about 50,000 miles and 3yrs. The leak wasnt noticeably because I never saw any coolant on the ground, luckily I was changing my oil and noticed the coolant reservoir empty.
Can't believe you changed the radiator for a few leaks lol....drain rad a little and use silicone sealant on leaks after you clean the dirt and water away, then add a little rad sealant to radiator topup with water and it's done, it will last years too, for next to nothing.
That is called lazy work and is a very bad idea. No shop would make a car with that street legal, or at least no shop with any sense of dignity and integrity. Your radiator is under pressure as it's running (20psi for my Ford explorer) and would more than likely blow that silicone out like a cork. Not to mention that doesnt even fix the issue of it still cracking and leaking. I strongly advise against doing what you suggested.
@@eegg6954 actually i have sealed a radiator before that was in 2009 and its still going strong, used a product made by Evo that used to be called sticks like shit, it needs mosture to cure it, sticks to wet surfaces, it's white and is a little like silicone but stiffer, even used it for replacing parts of frame and floor in a caravan, only problem is it's never coming off unless you use a grinder, it's still sold here but they renamed it to sticks like ****.
@@moviemaker2011z It's not a shop job though is it, and what you on about street legal, your radiator dosen't go through an MOT test, as long as it doesn't leak theres no problem and as regards lazy work, no, it's a case of get it back on the road asp and as cheaply as possible, i wouldn't spend an hour plus changing out a radiator for a small leak, some of us have jobs to go to.
Just ordered the Radiator for 2010 4.0 Sport trac. I find your video to be the best on You Tube for this repair. I will let You know how the repair goes!!!!
That’s how you show someone how to do something without a bunch of confusion. Great job, thank you!!
Many thanks for the video. My 2006 explorer developed bad leaks ( 2gallons of water for a trip to work and home 30 miles). I looked around several shops near me and they wanted between $900 -$1100. I went on TH-cam, watched several others then yours. I decided to go for it. I purchased the rad and tool. 4 hours and only 200 bucks out of pocket,all in and back running. Many thanks .
I figured out a neat trick a few days ago while working on a friend's Explorer. When you're removing the transmission cooler lines from radiator, your instinct will be to grip the removal tool as tightly as possible, as if you are trying to cut through a piece of thick wire. Actually, if you're using the scissor type removal tool, then what you want to do is just the opposite. Instead of clamping the tool down onto the tube as tightly as possible, what you want to do is try to open it just a little bit once you slip it inside the fitting. This way the tool has a better chance of actually releasing the retainer tang away from the lip on the tube. If you grip the tool too tightly, then you are just working against yourself.
The trans fittings suck, they are even worse on the 08-10 models. I ended cutting them off on a newer explorer and made my own with some AN fittings.
@@adamanderson8631 I was considering ordering some 1/2" hose barbs with an 18MM x 1.5 pitch thread, and then using 1/2" power steering return hose to connect hose barbs to remaining steel tubes, after I cut and flared the ends of steel tubes. I was just about to go this route, when I decided to give it one more try. Glad I gave it one more try and didn't end up cutting lines and patching it together with hose barbs and power-steering return hose.
@@gustavbabic5004 my buddy and I did exactly what you were wanting to do, and it ended up not holding for very long and had to go get new lines because we of course ruined the ones that were on there
@@justinl9677 If you get the right size fittings, then it should work. I've done similar things on other vehicles, but it is always best to have the correct type of lines if you can manage it.
.
Wonderful observation I wouldn't have considered!
A valuable video. Thanks so much for sharing! Looks like Ford made things a bit more difficult than they had to!
I'm amazed how you can work on that with your son bouncing around in the background. Good job.
A key point here is that those mounting rails for the radiator are designed to be put on from the side. You can't really tell until you get it apart, but it's physically impossible to just lift the radiator straight up and out of the brackets. You have to kinda shimmy one side of the radiator free of the bracket, then the other side. Same goes for putting the radiator back in (which was much more difficult). You have to kinda put one side of the radiator partway into the bracket for that side, then rotate the opposite side of the radiator forward a bit (toward the firewall), so you have clearance to slide the bracket onto that side of the radiator. If you're looking from above, facing the windshield, imagine the left side being the hinged side of a door. You shimmy the radiator into the bracket for that side, then "open the door"...rotate the opposite side of the radiator toward the firewall, while keeping the "hinged" side stationary. Slip the bracket onto the "doorknob" end of the door, then "close the door"....rotate the opposite side of the radiator back toward the front bumper. Then you hafta just to maneuver the whole assembly back into place and make sure the mounting rails land flush right in the middle of those mounting receptacles on the frame. A1 Auto did a video where they take off the fan and that gives you more room to take the radiator and the rails out (and back in) as a single assembly.
long story short, it's a beast and it's NOT an exact science. I had to try a few different methods (from above and below) of twisting the mounting rails in different directions until I got the radiator back in. Getting both sides to fully seat into the grove at the bottom of the rails is tricky as well. It's not you. Take a breath, think it through, and try again.
First, great video! Extremely helpful with my pain in rear vehicle. Just a heads up as I learned the hard way not to place any tools on the battery when working on the vehicle.
I can only imagine the sparks! Thanks for watching.
January in New York. Great time to do this in the street !
Thank you for this. And you are very patient with that light I can picture my dad throwing it in the street if it fell that many times lol
Very informative video! I get to do this to my 07 Sport Trac now.
Nice video Adam. Glad you mentioned topping off the transmission fluid in your comments. They make it kind of hard to do in an 2007. I also splurged on an extra tool to remove my fan which gave me more clearance to the rear. Thanks very much.
Watched the whole thing and thank you for taking the time to video this for all of us! Fixing to replace mine !
Thank you so much you are definitely fantastic at what you do I was in a very tough situation and you saved the day
Awesome job
Thank you Adam, This helped out
need more information about the tool for the transmission cooling lines
Just grab one from the auto part store
Can you add to the transmission tank some new trans oil?
Como se llaman las pinzas con las que aflojaste las mangueras en el minuto 9:36 ?
You’re lucky your explorer isn’t rusty. For those who have rust buckets like me, I had to cut my transmission cooler lines and order new ones.
Thanks....
You did not say or list what brand parts your replacing the old ones with?
It was just the radiator and it came from the local parts store as i was going out of town the nexy day. Came with a lifetime warranty so hopefully I won't have to do it again or at minimum pay for it twice.
@@adamanderson8631 I had to order a radiator recently and checked the price online and the local parts stores. Online was almost half of the major name parts stores even with next day delivery. It's crazy how expensive they are over ordering online.
Oh i know, i usually order online but this one snuck up on me. Luckily i do have a commercial account at the local parts place so i get a little discount so it doesn't sting quite so bad.
@@adamanderson8631 Thats great. I always hate when this stuff sneaks up on me. LOL
Replaced my radiator today which I fot from Autozone. The first lasted about 50,000 miles and 3yrs. The leak wasnt noticeably because I never saw any coolant on the ground, luckily I was changing my oil and noticed the coolant reservoir empty.
Would you be willing to sell the other two transmission line fittings, mine only came with the set you installed and I need the ones for 2008
Let me look to see if I still have them
Looked all over i must have thrown them out with the old stuff. Sorry.
@@adamanderson8631 Thanks for looking, great video
Can't you just unscrew the fitting from the old radiator and thread it into the new one?
Can't believe you changed the radiator for a few leaks lol....drain rad a little and use silicone sealant on leaks after you clean the dirt and water away, then add a little rad sealant to radiator topup with water and it's done, it will last years too, for next to nothing.
That is called lazy work and is a very bad idea. No shop would make a car with that street legal, or at least no shop with any sense of dignity and integrity. Your radiator is under pressure as it's running (20psi for my Ford explorer) and would more than likely blow that silicone out like a cork. Not to mention that doesnt even fix the issue of it still cracking and leaking. I strongly advise against doing what you suggested.
A 20 psi cooling system is gonna blow out that silicone in ten minutes! Guess you never did that, did you?
@@eegg6954 actually i have sealed a radiator before that was in 2009 and its still going strong, used a product made by Evo that used to be called sticks like shit, it needs mosture to cure it, sticks to wet surfaces, it's white and is a little like silicone but stiffer, even used it for replacing parts of frame and floor in a caravan, only problem is it's never coming off unless you use a grinder, it's still sold here but they renamed it to sticks like ****.
@@moviemaker2011z It's not a shop job though is it, and what you on about street legal, your radiator dosen't go through an MOT test, as long as it doesn't leak theres no problem and as regards lazy work, no, it's a case of get it back on the road asp and as cheaply as possible, i wouldn't spend an hour plus changing out a radiator for a small leak, some of us have jobs to go to.