One little thing you forgot. When you do a rebuild it is important to flush and clean the fluid return port in the brake fluid supply well of the master cylinder. If that port is clogged, the brakes can lock when the brake pedal/lever is released. The brake fluid supply well is under the plastic tube where the reservoir feeds the master cylinder. The port cover is held in place with one JIS phillips type screw and an O-ring. Remove the screw and plastic port/cover. The port is very small, maybe .010".
Good video. I think most of the people need help knowing the order of installation for the piston items. I couldn't quite catch the detail from my manual as to the direction of the spring and seal assembly with the piston. Video did pretty good job of it's detail. Refurbishing 1981 GS850 and Partszilla has been a good source for parts too. Thanks for your time with the video!
Great video, i have a question.. Are there issue on master cylinder piston set will bind the rear brakes?? (Because Calliper piston not releasing) I have changed calliper piston washer set also, but same issue running. So what i need to do next to solve this.. Thank you..
Very important to mention… When the piston is in the rest position, the brake fluid will be balanced via The compensation hole. This compensation hole is very small, clean this compensation hole with a very thin wire of copper, if it would clog… you are guaranteed a dragging caliper, this has already happened to me twice!!! with the Honda CBX 1000. Stay Safe.
one thing i was hoping you'd do is replace the 90 degree part to go to the reservoir. the one on my GSXR is stuck and was hoping you'd have a tip on the video on how to remove a tricky one to clean/replace.
I think the most important part would of been showing clearly and slowly which way the seals went on back on to make sure it worked right without having to strip it down again ! Maybe slow down a bit next time . But thanks for doing the vid anyway .
hello sir i m from india i have cbr 250 abs 2013 model before rear disk brake pad change rear brake working but after replacement the rear brake pedal not working and also check master cylinder also working after pressing rear brake pedal is going so down what is problem in rear brake
Hello, i have a 2008 600rr i bought used. What would be the cause of short travel on the brake foot lever? I feel like i need to introduce air to get feeling in the rear brakes. Thanks
Anyone feel like they have to really press the rear brake to do anything? Like my buddy gsxr locks his rear tire up fairly easily. I understand you don’t want to lock the tire up but just seems odd? I have replace rear pads, Caliper moves side to side on slide pins freely piston moves in and out, replaced rear master cylinder, and checked thickness on rear rotor working spec. Rotors and pads don’t look glazed
nice video and thank you for it, BUT I needed to see a few things or my situation and your fingers were in the way, not a problem for rebuilding just for what I wanted to see, LOL
If the rubber boot is ripped would it consider as a leak even if there’s no fluid coming out? The rubber boots is ripped and I can’t bleed the system. Also with the kit does it come with a new rubber boot?
Yes if the boot is ripped itll leak , thats what im dealing with now, the rebuild kit i bought on ebay for 10$ came with everything including the new boot
Hey john, I'm in the process of rebuilding the rear master cylinder on a yamaha raptor 660. It's pretty much the same nissin master cylinder. I have it all broken down but the piston is seized and won't come out. I soaked it with PB Blast, blew compressed air into the fluid inlet hole to hopefully push the piston down but nothing. Do you have any other tips? I was going to just purchase a brand new one from you guys but unfortunately yamaha has discontinued them along with most everything else lol.
I got it out. I ended up taking a small punch that was flat on the end and stuck it inside the fluid inlet and tapped the piston out with a hammer. Didn't take much effort at all, not sure why my compressor wouldn't blow it out lol. The piston was really dirty & gritty and man did that old fluid smell like some sh@t💩😂. I'm doing a 100% restore on a Raptor I bought and never rode. Like I said before, can't buy a brand new oem master cylinder so I'm having to rebuild this one with oem parts👍.
What's the problem when your rear master cylinder not releasing? Like if your rear brake pedal not coming back up when your mashing the brakes. It's not coming back up. Why?
hi I have cbr 1100 blackbird rear brakes are sticking ive changed pistons & seals re bleed and still rear brakes grabbing .so do you think master cylinder needs rebuild
If you bleed your lines correctly and there are still issues, then double check levels. If all fails, a rebuild might be worth considering. Usually when the master goes out, it's causes fade vs grab though.
@@PartzillaParts yes air hissing out when i press down the caliper piston using C clamp but no liquid coming out from nowhere just hissing sound from no where
It's pretty rare that the bore gets damaged, you can rub your finger around and get a visual. If for some reason it is damaged, you would need a whole new master cylinder.
Why wouldn't I scotch brite the bore anyhow, either way? The cast al body rubs the bore no matter what, just like in a car. Or use a rubbing compound to make it almost polished looking. Wouldn't that increase the sealing? I don't like any spongyness in my brakes
If it was dry, you would have no brakes. You can take it apart and make sure all the o-rings are lubed up. There could be one that is dry enough to make noise.
Professionals know how much pressure is needed from doing it so many times. You dont need to be anal, and if you feel more confident your way, just stick to it.
One little thing you forgot. When you do a rebuild it is important to flush and clean the fluid return port in the brake fluid supply well of the master cylinder. If that port is clogged, the brakes can lock when the brake pedal/lever is released.
The brake fluid supply well is under the plastic tube where the reservoir feeds the master cylinder. The port cover is held in place with one JIS phillips type screw and an O-ring. Remove the screw and plastic port/cover. The port is very small, maybe .010".
Good video. I think most of the people need help knowing the order of installation for the piston items. I couldn't quite catch the detail from my manual as to the direction of the spring and seal assembly with the piston. Video did pretty good job of it's detail.
Refurbishing 1981 GS850 and Partszilla has been a good source for parts too.
Thanks for your time with the video!
Thanks for commenting Dougie! We definitely appreciate the feedback.
Have you also done the same but with Brembo brake master cylinders? It would be great if you uploaded videos about it.
Great video. Just completed CBR1000RR. Thanks for the help
Can you please make a video on how to replace the rear brake light switch ? PLEASE i have a big community that would love this.
Great video, i have a question..
Are there issue on master cylinder piston set will bind the rear brakes??
(Because Calliper piston not releasing)
I have changed calliper piston washer set also, but same issue running. So what i need to do next to solve this..
Thank you..
Your a good teacher
Good video, just about to do mine on a AJP dirtbike
Very important to mention… When the piston is in the rest position, the brake fluid will be balanced via The compensation hole. This compensation hole is very small, clean this compensation hole with a very thin wire of copper, if it would clog… you are guaranteed a dragging caliper, this has already happened to me twice!!! with the Honda CBX 1000. Stay Safe.
one thing i was hoping you'd do is replace the 90 degree part to go to the reservoir. the one on my GSXR is stuck and was hoping you'd have a tip on the video on how to remove a tricky one to clean/replace.
Why do you need to replace it if you don’t mind me asking?
I think the most important part would of been showing clearly and slowly which way the seals went on back on to make sure it worked right without having to strip it down again ! Maybe slow down a bit next time . But thanks for doing the vid anyway .
hello sir i m from india i have cbr 250 abs 2013 model before rear disk brake pad change rear brake working but after replacement the rear brake pedal not working and also check master cylinder also working after pressing rear brake pedal is going so down what is problem in rear brake
Hello, i have a 2008 600rr i bought used. What would be the cause of short travel on the brake foot lever? I feel like i need to introduce air to get feeling in the rear brakes. Thanks
Anyone feel like they have to really press the rear brake to do anything? Like my buddy gsxr locks his rear tire up fairly easily. I understand you don’t want to lock the tire up but just seems odd? I have replace rear pads, Caliper moves side to side on slide pins freely piston moves in and out, replaced rear master cylinder, and checked thickness on rear rotor working spec. Rotors and pads don’t look glazed
nice video and thank you for it, BUT I needed to see a few things or my situation and your fingers were in the way, not a problem for rebuilding just for what I wanted to see, LOL
If the rubber boot is ripped would it consider as a leak even if there’s no fluid coming out? The rubber boots is ripped and I can’t bleed the system. Also with the kit does it come with a new rubber boot?
Yes if the boot is ripped itll leak , thats what im dealing with now, the rebuild kit i bought on ebay for 10$ came with everything including the new boot
Hey john, I'm in the process of rebuilding the rear master cylinder on a yamaha raptor 660. It's pretty much the same nissin master cylinder. I have it all broken down but the piston is seized and won't come out. I soaked it with PB Blast, blew compressed air into the fluid inlet hole to hopefully push the piston down but nothing. Do you have any other tips? I was going to just purchase a brand new one from you guys but unfortunately yamaha has discontinued them along with most everything else lol.
I got it out. I ended up taking a small punch that was flat on the end and stuck it inside the fluid inlet and tapped the piston out with a hammer. Didn't take much effort at all, not sure why my compressor wouldn't blow it out lol. The piston was really dirty & gritty and man did that old fluid smell like some sh@t💩😂. I'm doing a 100% restore on a Raptor I bought and never rode. Like I said before, can't buy a brand new oem master cylinder so I'm having to rebuild this one with oem parts👍.
What's the problem when your rear master cylinder not releasing? Like if your rear brake pedal not coming back up when your mashing the brakes. It's not coming back up. Why?
Check the return spring.
hi I have cbr 1100 blackbird rear brakes are sticking ive changed pistons & seals re bleed and still rear brakes grabbing .so do you think master cylinder needs rebuild
If you bleed your lines correctly and there are still issues, then double check levels. If all fails, a rebuild might be worth considering. Usually when the master goes out, it's causes fade vs grab though.
Partzilla sir....what do you mean by '' check level?"
So when did the circlip go back on
Once you seat the plunger and washer...you pop the circlip in to hold it all together.
Got a CB900C and the circle clip broke...Any clues on to remove it?
Thanks
The circlip inside the master cylinder? How broken is it?
is it normal when i press the caliper piston after its stucks i hear air when i press down ?
Air in the system? Air hissing out somewhere else? Are you sure it's not fluid rushing back into the caliper?
@@PartzillaParts yes air hissing out when i press down the caliper piston using C clamp but no liquid coming out from nowhere just hissing sound from no where
what about checking the surface of bore?
It's pretty rare that the bore gets damaged, you can rub your finger around and get a visual. If for some reason it is damaged, you would need a whole new master cylinder.
Why wouldn't I scotch brite the bore anyhow, either way? The cast al body rubs the bore no matter what, just like in a car. Or use a rubbing compound to make it almost polished looking. Wouldn't that increase the sealing? I don't like any spongyness in my brakes
That is a feasible solution, most of the time, it's not necessary. If you feel that it needs it, some light scotch brite will do the trick.
That's what I ended up doing, but next time I will use rubbing compound also. I like a brake that feels rock hard. I race
My rear master kinda creeks when i push would that mean i need to rebuild it
Not necessarily. Are you brakes still working properly? There are o-rings that might squeak a bit, but it doesn't mean they are bad.
Partzilla my brakes are working fine its like the master cylinder is dry
If it was dry, you would have no brakes. You can take it apart and make sure all the o-rings are lubed up. There could be one that is dry enough to make noise.
Partzilla ok thanks
what was its bore diameter? ?
Here ya go Aman. Hope this helps.
Master cylinder I.D. .5512 - .5529
Master Piston O.D. .5495 - .5506
Dude torque everything please. Be the professional your appear to be.
Professionals know how much pressure is needed from doing it so many times. You dont need to be anal, and if you feel more confident your way, just stick to it.