Great video Martin, thank you. This helps me compare to Fluke 87V and others. Better than 87V in many respects, $150 Cdn less, and a few drawbacks such as lesser warranty, lesser functionality with frequency measurement, no conductance measurement. As an Electrician I must point out one important thing that was not discussed and I think misunderstood in the video. I always carry a tester, for absolute verification of a voltage being present or not, regardless of whether it is 600V for personnel safety, or a 24V control voltage. Any quality tester is inherently safer than any meter as there are no buttons that can be accidentally pressed to disable the auto ac / dc voltage mode. I carry a Fluke T5 Tester, 1000V, 1 meg ohm input impedance. The DM92 & 93 models are one of the very few meters that have an auto ac / dc voltage & current selection, the "A" icon on the screen. I believe that FLIR's intent was to act like a tester in this mode, the default mode when powering the meter up, so you cannot be fooled and miss reading a live voltage. I often need to read voltages in the most difficult of places, cold weather, bent over, low lighting, etc. Martin said one or some of the buttons were not active in this mode - which I believe is on purpose so you can't accidentally press a button and disable this mode. My partner was embarrassed when his Klein meter did not read 120VAC with the client watching, and the client almost threw his meter in the pond when my T5 tester correctly read 120V. My partner was wearing big winter gloves at the time, and hard not to accidentally press a button with those gloves on. I believe he pressed the manual range button, putting the meter into the wrong measurement range. For this reason I consider Flir's "A" mode one of the best features of this meter, something I've been shopping for, and hard to find in a meter. I think I'll buy the DM92 or 93.
DM93 is really very good, but in diode test it does not work as it says in the manual. When the diode is in reverse I have a "-" sign in front of the value as if I had the polarity correctly connected, in its video Review: FLIR DM93 Multimeter with data logging - Pt 1 minutes 20:13, ud. I test with an ISOtech multimeter that is constantly with 2.47V but changing the polarity to detect reverse. After investigating, I found that it is similar to the Smart mode diode test of the dm90, unlike that I did not find a way to deactivate it. I would like to know when you did the video could you accidentally prove the diode in reverse or is it a failure? Since the manual at no time referred to the Smart mode. Thank you very much.
I just bought the DM92, and in the 40 years I had my old cheap multimeter, never tested a diode. Right off the bat with the new meter, I'm testing a diode, and got very confused - yes - Flir does not seem to test a diode correctly. At least their test doesn't match their own manual at all. I have a ticket open with them now, and it took a while to convince them their meter was not working. They finally got it and I will see what they say.
Your Amazon store link is not working. It may be better to give Amazon links to each product in the description (which should always work). I was thinking of getting the DM92. I love that in two months, Flir came out with fixes to the things you didn't like, and a new manual!
The ideal lens should be "coated" This, if done properly will minimize light reflexions. Curving the lens surface can facilitate viewing at an angle, but it can also distort the digits on some positions.
Now that ok takes you out of most features (which I also prefer), does the back button do anything anymore? I didn't notice if you used it during the review.
Reasonably priced for that brand, but it does seem kinda bulky, and has its issues. Beware of those rubber coatings. In time they become tacky! I no longer buy any electronics with a rubber "coated" finish.
It defaults into a 4,000 count. What for? As far as I can tell, it works just as well in the 40,000 count mode. Why not leave it in that mode all the time and also get rid of the wonky auto mode? The probe warning could do with an aural warning as well.
Wow that thing looks accurate, it even picks up hand gestures as voltage, truly cutting edge stuff. me thinks flir should stick with amazing cameras instead of trying to gouge a few extra $$ with there name!!
Even with cheap plastic, surely that's not the condition it arrived in? And anyway, isn't the cheap stuff always extra shiny and polished? As Dave Jones would say: gilding the lily.
fluke still seems to have the best build quality. most of the money should have been invested into premium materials.400$ I don't think so, the gold plated leads seems stylish. :)
hey great video. you helped me understand my multimeter way better with this. i have the Flir DM92. the little brother of the DM93. i had a question that has been baffling me for quite a while now and cant figure it out. Sometimes when i do a continuity test on a vehicle, the display shows "FUSE" then when i disconnect the leads, it is all of a sudden on the resistance setting and i have to manually replace it on continuity. i tested my internal fuses and they are fine. im sure there is something im missing. please explain this if you could. thank you
Hi ! I have just bought a DM93 now (march 2017) and I got the same problem: I was collecting automatic data (Intensity 0'1mA to 100 mA) and after a while (15 or 20 minutes, 3500 measures) DM93 stopped showing "FUSE" on screen. I'm sure that fuses are well because shutting down and up the tester it worked well again. I asked to Flir Support but they said me that I'd watch wheter the tester repeats that event again. Have you found the cause? Have you got the "FUSE" even again? Did you do some progress? Thanks
Meh, 400$ is just the usual ridiculous overpricing. You can get a 1gigasample oscilloscope for less. It doesn't get more clear cut than that. Well, other than Metrahit who has perfected the art of insanity. The 400$ price point isn't getting more competitive, It's just price fixing. Agreeing to milk the fools. None of these 1980s tech multimeters should cost more than 100$ unless it has serious oscilloscope functionality. A 60MS/s 8bit Texas Instruments AD chip costs 1.5$ in bulk. It's also up to people like you Martin to be conscious of this and dare to say the truth about it. Don't be a product of status quo.
i sir give you bleeding thumbs up for the price fixing comment too many meters these days are over priced antiques in fancy boxes with a few extras like Bluetooth to make hem appear "modern"
I agree, my 10+ year old Extech MM560 has 50,000 counts, switchable to 500,000 in DCV and Ohms scales. I really think that level of resolution should be commonplace by now, not vanished away. 6,000, or even 40,000 counts, is poor to mediocre resolution, imo. Fluke is getting a fortune for that still. Sleep current for battery powered devices is important, but finding a portable DMM that can do single digit uA of current flow is difficult; nA is out of the question. Why isn't technology moving forward with these things. Scopes are getting better all the time, and cheaper, but it seems like for anything resembling decent for a DMM, it's at least $400. I had hopes for this one, but I need more resolution and accuracy on small signals. Where is the 1,000,000 count meter that measures nanoamps?
Was the temperature reading just the ambient temp? Not the probe? If not, then there might be something a little bit wrong...
Great video Martin, thank you. This helps me compare to Fluke 87V and others. Better than 87V in many respects, $150 Cdn less, and a few drawbacks such as lesser warranty, lesser functionality with frequency measurement, no conductance measurement. As an Electrician I must point out one important thing that was not discussed and I think misunderstood in the video. I always carry a tester, for absolute verification of a voltage being present or not, regardless of whether it is 600V for personnel safety, or a 24V control voltage. Any quality tester is inherently safer than any meter as there are no buttons that can be accidentally pressed to disable the auto ac / dc voltage mode. I carry a Fluke T5 Tester, 1000V, 1 meg ohm input impedance. The DM92 & 93 models are one of the very few meters that have an auto ac / dc voltage & current selection, the "A" icon on the screen. I believe that FLIR's intent was to act like a tester in this mode, the default mode when powering the meter up, so you cannot be fooled and miss reading a live voltage. I often need to read voltages in the most difficult of places, cold weather, bent over, low lighting, etc. Martin said one or some of the buttons were not active in this mode - which I believe is on purpose so you can't accidentally press a button and disable this mode. My partner was embarrassed when his Klein meter did not read 120VAC with the client watching, and the client almost threw his meter in the pond when my T5 tester correctly read 120V. My partner was wearing big winter gloves at the time, and hard not to accidentally press a button with those gloves on. I believe he pressed the manual range button, putting the meter into the wrong measurement range. For this reason I consider Flir's "A" mode one of the best features of this meter, something I've been shopping for, and hard to find in a meter. I think I'll buy the DM92 or 93.
DM93 is really very good, but in diode test it does not work as it says in the manual. When the diode is in reverse I have a "-" sign in front of the value as if I had the polarity correctly connected, in its video Review: FLIR DM93 Multimeter with data logging - Pt 1 minutes 20:13, ud. I test with an ISOtech multimeter that is constantly with 2.47V but changing the polarity to detect reverse. After investigating, I found that it is similar to the Smart mode diode test of the dm90, unlike that I did not find a way to deactivate it.
I would like to know when you did the video could you accidentally prove the diode in reverse or is it a failure? Since the manual at no time referred to the Smart mode.
Thank you very much.
I just bought the DM92, and in the 40 years I had my old cheap multimeter, never tested a diode. Right off the bat with the new meter, I'm testing a diode, and got very confused - yes - Flir does not seem to test a diode correctly. At least their test doesn't match their own manual at all. I have a ticket open with them now, and it took a while to convince them their meter was not working. They finally got it and I will see what they say.
hello, excellent video. I would like to know why this model measures the diodes in both directions?
There are some flir apps in the google play store, perhaps they are for the android bluetooth output
definitely an interesting meter, but the battery life is pretty short if you would like to use it as your main bench meter
Your Amazon store link is not working. It may be better to give Amazon links to each product in the description (which should always work). I was thinking of getting the DM92. I love that in two months, Flir came out with fixes to the things you didn't like, and a new manual!
The ideal lens should be "coated" This, if done properly will minimize light reflexions. Curving the lens surface can facilitate viewing at an angle, but it can also distort the digits on some positions.
What is the card you use to test the multimeter with? Nomenclature? Can I solder one up my self? Thanks.
Now that ok takes you out of most features (which I also prefer), does the back button do anything anymore? I didn't notice if you used it during the review.
Reasonably priced for that brand, but it does seem kinda bulky, and has its issues. Beware of those rubber coatings. In time they become tacky! I no longer buy any electronics with a rubber "coated" finish.
It defaults into a 4,000 count. What for? As far as I can tell, it works just as well in the 40,000 count mode. Why not leave it in that mode all the time and also get rid of the wonky auto mode? The probe warning could do with an aural warning as well.
No, once you select 40.000 it will stay at that count, until you turn it back. Even after its been turned off
Impressive for Flir I didn't even know they made DMM's. I wonder if the basis for this is inside their cameras already to read the IR sensor?
every single search i do for some device , its him or EEV blog guy... world is a small place for DMMs
Good Review. Thanks. I just bought the IM 75 Flir. You got a funny South African accent on you. Groete uit Kanada.
Wow that thing looks accurate, it even picks up hand gestures as voltage, truly cutting edge stuff. me thinks flir should stick with amazing cameras instead of trying to gouge a few extra $$ with there name!!
What's with all the scratches on the screen?
Cheap plastic...
Even with cheap plastic, surely that's not the condition it arrived in? And anyway, isn't the cheap stuff always extra shiny and polished? As Dave Jones would say: gilding the lily.
fluke still seems to have the best build quality. most of the money should have been invested into premium materials.400$ I don't think so, the gold plated leads seems stylish. :)
Would be nice to demonstrate the benefit of a Data Logger. :)
hey great video. you helped me understand my multimeter way better with this. i have the Flir DM92. the little brother of the DM93. i had a question that has been baffling me for quite a while now and cant figure it out. Sometimes when i do a continuity test on a vehicle, the display shows "FUSE" then when i disconnect the leads, it is all of a sudden on the resistance setting and i have to manually replace it on continuity. i tested my internal fuses and they are fine. im sure there is something im missing. please explain this if you could. thank you
Hi !
I have just bought a DM93 now (march 2017) and I got the same problem: I was collecting automatic data (Intensity 0'1mA to 100 mA) and after a while (15 or 20 minutes, 3500 measures) DM93 stopped showing "FUSE" on screen.
I'm sure that fuses are well because shutting down and up the tester it worked well again.
I asked to Flir Support but they said me that I'd watch wheter the tester repeats that event again.
Have you found the cause? Have you got the "FUSE" even again? Did you do some progress?
Thanks
the bar graph is not smooth as fluke does. this is what I recognized mostly.
Any opinion on this particular model? Thanks
www.kew-ltd.co.jp/en/products/detail/00976/
Meh, 400$ is just the usual ridiculous overpricing. You can get a 1gigasample oscilloscope for less. It doesn't get more clear cut than that. Well, other than Metrahit who has perfected the art of insanity.
The 400$ price point isn't getting more competitive, It's just price fixing. Agreeing to milk the fools.
None of these 1980s tech multimeters should cost more than 100$ unless it has serious oscilloscope functionality.
A 60MS/s 8bit Texas Instruments AD chip costs 1.5$ in bulk.
It's also up to people like you Martin to be conscious of this and dare to say the truth about it. Don't be a product of status quo.
i sir give you bleeding thumbs up for the price fixing comment too many meters these days are over priced antiques in fancy boxes with a few extras like Bluetooth to make hem appear "modern"
I agree, my 10+ year old Extech MM560 has 50,000 counts, switchable to 500,000 in DCV and Ohms scales. I really think that level of resolution should be commonplace by now, not vanished away. 6,000, or even 40,000 counts, is poor to mediocre resolution, imo. Fluke is getting a fortune for that still. Sleep current for battery powered devices is important, but finding a portable DMM that can do single digit uA of current flow is difficult; nA is out of the question. Why isn't technology moving forward with these things. Scopes are getting better all the time, and cheaper, but it seems like for anything resembling decent for a DMM, it's at least $400. I had hopes for this one, but I need more resolution and accuracy on small signals. Where is the 1,000,000 count meter that measures nanoamps?
I envy you. i want that meter
Its a nice multimeter but expensive with cheap materials. display is not good thumbs down