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Defender electrical revamp Pt 2 - main battery system
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2021
- I start on a major electrical revamp of the old Defender as a lockdown project'. In this video detail the work performed on the main battery system, which involvles a new wiring centre.
Good stuff and thanks for the video. Finding myself in need of such knowledge in the near future.
I am in awe of what you are doing with your Series 1. It puts my humble efforts in the shade. However I am happy to share any knowledge I have.
That was a very orderly video well set out, executed and explained :-)
Some folk say that automotive should only be crimped but I crimp and solder. I've never had a problem.
Thanks Ade.
Crimping and soldering are both widely used and accepted and at our level are perfectly acceptable. I made a point of using screw-type terminal blocks, partly because I had some lying around, but also to show that they are acceptable too. I know that many people would regard them as inferior. Do whatever works for you is the message.
For information: Generally crimp or solder or crimp then solder is acceptable, never solder then crimp as the crimping solder is almost a guaranteed fail. Ideally for best results a good quality crimp will surpass any other fixing method. The usual fail on solder joints is vibration on the wire, and it fractures right at the base of the solder joint, this can be avoided by correct support of the wire. As a note, several manufacturers crimp and then solder high current application joints, Ford did this on the relay and fuse bus bars for all the 1980's vehicles.
@@overlandready For vehicle manufacturer's it's about saving time and money.
Another very informative video. Thank you for sharing. Very neat looking engine bay.
Thanks for the comment. The engine bay is greatly improved but I am still looking for ways to tidy it more.
this is quality viewing.
Campervan circuits are a good one to look at on youtube, they tend to be well planned and rational.
Very well done, more so if it's your first time better than some electricians I've worked with, a vast improvement. Just a few things for the pot you may find useful, this probably doesn't apply to you mine is petrol, in the ninetys it became compulsory on new cars to have a lift pump cut off in the event of a accident most used an inertia switch, I have used a relay nc contact negatively switched from the oil pressure switch, no oil pressure no pump. I also have a small diode protected relay switched from my alternator charging light I use to switch my hour meter and split charge relays with an interlock relay from my winch supply. ( don't like vsr relays) You can buy adaptable boxes and enclosures in all shapes and sizes to help keep thing's dry, dust free and tidy, If you have been in industrial control panels you have probably seen all the cables are numbered, yes they are a pain to put on but they are cheap and can make life easier little label printer's are also useful Pete Vree and Jim Pytel have done a few videos on basic ladder diagrams and cable numbering you may find interesting, the industrial way is the best in my experience just wire it as though its ac.
Hi Roy, the wiring centre didn't come out too badly given the constraints I set myself (i.e. using existing / used materials where possible). The real benefit was that having started on a tidy up I then got into it with a vengeance and corrected loads of niggly things all over the vehicle, some of which required a lot of time for small improvements which was why I hadn't addressed them before.
Regarding some of your points:
1. Thanks for pointing out the requirement for an automatic cut off for the fuel pump. There is a hidden manual cut off and it will be easy to add an inertia switch too.
2. Labels. Yes I have seen a number of commercial labels which are very neat and designed to take tag / cable numbers. My problem is that I want to write out wordy descriptors and the cables I am attaching to are v small so there isn't much real estate. I have tried some tags which attach along the cable so are quite neat but (a) they don't accept ball point pen, and (b) Dymo labels don't stick to them. Chinese rubbish I guess. I will come back to this in due course. The important thing is that the cables are all identified for now.
3. I know all about adaptable boxes etc. Wait for the next video.
I will be doing a video review of some of the commercial wiring centre offerings because I now understand much better what is required.
I don't know why you were unable to send me an email previously because the address was correct (billnich1950@gmail.com)
@@defendermodsandtravels If I remember right the legislation for fuel pump cut off only applies to post 95 cars I put one on because mine is petrol it's also got the tank under the drivers seat not good for side impact, I also try to have bit of a standardisation one relay fits all 5 pin 30 amp is my choice only have to carry one spare I think what you've done so far is really good.
@@royblackburn1163 OK thanks for the clarification about the fuel cut out.
All my relays are 4 pin standard size (but tempting to go for the mini relays owing to space constraints) because they are OE. I put in a couple of 40A relays on the higher power circuits for reliability but in reality 30A would be adequate.
The reason screw terminal joiners are not used in automotive applications now is reliability, it really is not the best joiner method available. Also I have to disagree with the pre-wired relay holders, again, you are introducing another fail point into the electrical system. Putting the whole lot totally exposed to the elements on the engine side of the bulkhead is also asking for trouble, especially with horizontal positioned relays. I totally agree there is a distinct lack of usable space on a Land Rover, personally having a 110, the underseat compartment on the driver's side is a perfect place for electrics. On a 90 I would suggest buying the middle seat "tool tray" and fitting everything in there, it's above wading depth and is sealable so things remain dry and easily situated for fault tracing especially in inclement weather.
Everything has a reason. I am very short of space and the cab is very cramped. There's no room for extra kit there unless I take existing items out. The bulkhead really is the only viable option. I'd like to put the wiring hub into an IP rated box but would need to miniaturise it first. An obvious space saver would be to use mini relays however the rest of the vehicle uses standard relays and I want uniformity. Everything, as ever, is a compromise. The video is posted to show one approach to the problem and is not meant to be the ultimate solution.
I am not aware that the the MTBF for screwed terminals using ferrules is much different to the alternatives which is why they are so widely used in industrial control rooms. However they may be more susceptible to environmental factors so my priority would be to put them into a better environment rather than to change the connector type. If you can quote reliability data to the contrary I'd be pleased to see it.
When you mention the underseat compartment on the driver's side, this is where the fuel tank sits and it's also more exposed to the elements than the upper bulkhead. Or am I missing something?