BEST Electrical Multi-Meter that I use everyday! 👉 amzn.to/3TNDSL2 This is the best way I’ve found to replace an electrical sub panel. Let me know if I did anything wrong and if I can do anything better in the future.
I bet a lot of people cringe at your cutting and tossing so much hardware. What they don't understand is that the time it takes to remove them by unscrewing everything would cost more than what would be saved by reusing the old breakers.
Great work! I would emphasize labeling the circuits sooner (before ripping out the new panel) i can see that you did that but i dont think you mentioned that before taking out the old panel.
Just recently discovered your channel, friend. Learning a lot! Question: would you hire a late 40s, small-ish bloke, who has a strong desire to learn the trade? I'm a 20 year desk jockey, and I hate my job. Is there room for me in your trade? Cheers!
I’m just getting into the trade and I’m amazed on how you take pride in your work , keep up the videos I’ll love to see more residential work from start to finish What brand is the torque screw driver
I just uploaded a new tutorial upgrading a 100 amp to a 200 amp all in one yesterday. If you liked this one you’ll probably like that one as well. Feel free to check it out. th-cam.com/video/gDozp7t7A0Y/w-d-xo.html
@@landerselectric I will check it rn, I’m open to educating myself with video from professionals thanks I appreciate, hope to see more video down the line and May the Lord Jesus Christ bless you✝️
When you took the stud off, did you just cut it out completely top to bottom with a saw? Or just the space you needed? Regardless that wouldn’t be a problem with inspection since you’re messing with the frame work of the property? Thanks.
Great question. The stud was just a scab they installed with 2 nails. It didn’t even run the full length from the floor to the ceiling. It was 100% ok to remove. That’s a good point though for everyone. You can’t just go cutting studs out. Some walls are loadbearing and can cause major issues if you cut studs out of loadbearing walls.
On large sub oaneld liked to have.a ground bar on both sides of panel to manage wires.would run a copper jumper from first bar to other bar. Worked in s 84 curcuit panel filled with 84 single pole circuit breakers Every conduit ( 1" EMT with 9 whites, 3 black, 3 red, 3 blue & a green wire. All #10 guage THWN solud wires). Fun with over 170 #10 wires running to top of these panels.
You don't want to cut the neutral wires that short as it will force you to splicel in the future to be able to use GFCI and AFCI breakers. With that panel you can land them lower than the corresponding breaker.
So you just used the label on the hots to make up your circuit list yes? So after each securement in the breaker you notated the cut wire label on your breaker list? Gotta remember to do it after each cut.
I use the capri. I bought it at Home Depot. Problem is it just broke. Researching now to find a better brand. Does anyone know a good brand for torquing screwdrivers?
Can you please buy a handheld label printer for your labels - no hand writing! It would be so much cleaner. You can get a nice LabelWorks for $200 or something even cheaper Dymo for like $50
Just a heads up you can post a link to all the tools you use in your videos and there will be a button on screen for people to click and you can get commissions. So that panel, those wire dikes, those insulated Milwaukees, that tool belt, that torque screw driver. Lost money.
I do have the links in the description of the video, but I think it would be helpful for people to be able to click it on the screen. And to be clear, I want you to know that I only post tools that I’ve been using for years and years and years. I don’t post worthless tools that break all the time. My channel will never be a channel that’s all about money. Much more concerned about making sure I recommend quality product for anyone who needs them. Thanks for the tip!
3 inch hex head screws this guy something special. Uses his mouth to open a sharpie let me guess he gets sick quite often. I worked with village idiots like that before there fun to watch.
Clean panel, don't really care for the "sheathing-clamp" on the feeder (looks sloppy to me), I prefer to use a J-nail or an appropriate sized clamp/strap. Nice work!
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
BEST Electrical Multi-Meter that I use everyday!
👉 amzn.to/3TNDSL2
This is the best way I’ve found to replace an electrical sub panel. Let me know if I did anything wrong and if I can do anything better in the future.
You don’t use that klein fan with the hard hat i see…the battery and fan add alot of weight ..is going to make us more hunchbacked….
I bet a lot of people cringe at your cutting and tossing so much hardware. What they don't understand is that the time it takes to remove them by unscrewing everything would cost more than what would be saved by reusing the old breakers.
@@brianfoster7064 Well said!
A nice, neat, clean appearance keeps the inspector and homeowner happy. Job well done sir.
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Bond grounds and neutrals at the first point of disconnect and separate after. Simplest and clearest way i have had it explained to me.
I have no idea what you’re talking about, but this video was seriously entertaining
Glad you liked it!
😆
Bad ass video man!!! I’m an apprentice and this was awesome to watch and super informative. 💯appreciate this
Glad you liked it! Hope it helped!
7:14 good tip. Nice work on that panel, very clean and neat.
Glad it helped. It definitely sucks back so you have to make sure you pull it out a little to account for it.
Great work! I would emphasize labeling the circuits sooner (before ripping out the new panel) i can see that you did that but i dont think you mentioned that before taking out the old panel.
Good point!
Learned a lot, thanks.
Glad it helped! You’re welcome!
Nice working.! I did notice you used a yellow sheathing label on 14 gang wire. Better to use white with 14g & yellow for 12g.
That’s a great point! Thanks!
Great video!!
Thanks! Hope it helped!
Love this video. You do an amazing job explaining everything. Great work !
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
23:06 your craftsmanship is making me very happy lol.
Great work, and you can tell you're still very fast and efficient.
Hope it was helpful!
Just recently discovered your channel, friend. Learning a lot! Question: would you hire a late 40s, small-ish bloke, who has a strong desire to learn the trade? I'm a 20 year desk jockey, and I hate my job. Is there room for me in your trade? Cheers!
Glad to hear the videos are helping! Unfortunately I’m not able to take on any more employees at this time. Wish I could help out.
An excellent tutorial, beautiful work!
Thanks! Hope it was helpful!
I’m just getting into the trade and I’m amazed on how you take pride in your work , keep up the videos
I’ll love to see more residential work from start to finish
What brand is the torque screw driver
It’s the capri that Home Depot sells but it broke after 5 uses. I’m looking for a better brand right now.
I just uploaded a new tutorial upgrading a 100 amp to a 200 amp all in one yesterday. If you liked this one you’ll probably like that one as well. Feel free to check it out.
th-cam.com/video/gDozp7t7A0Y/w-d-xo.html
@@landerselectric I will check it rn, I’m open to educating myself with video from professionals thanks I appreciate, hope to see more video down the line and May the Lord Jesus Christ bless you✝️
@@Dacowboy_ You too my friend!
You can talk and work on the same speed. Impressive ⚡️⚡️⚡️
It’s pretty hard. You should see all the bloopers!
When you took the stud off, did you just cut it out completely top to bottom with a saw? Or just the space you needed? Regardless that wouldn’t be a problem with inspection since you’re messing with the frame work of the property? Thanks.
Great question. The stud was just a scab they installed with 2 nails. It didn’t even run the full length from the floor to the ceiling. It was 100% ok to remove. That’s a good point though for everyone. You can’t just go cutting studs out. Some walls are loadbearing and can cause major issues if you cut studs out of loadbearing walls.
This is best work ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Glad you liked it!
Thank you this time was very good I like what you did ones more thank you
Glad you liked it! Many more to come.
On large sub oaneld liked to have.a ground bar on both sides of panel to manage wires.would run a copper jumper from first bar to other bar. Worked in s 84 curcuit panel filled with 84 single pole circuit breakers Every conduit ( 1" EMT with 9 whites, 3 black, 3 red, 3 blue & a green wire. All #10 guage THWN solud wires). Fun with over 170 #10 wires running to top of these panels.
That’s a lot of wires. I’m sure you made it look pretty.
Your finished panel has me feeling some kind of way.
Hope it helped.
Id love to work for you. Been in industrial maintenance for the past 2 years but definitely would love a career in residential/commercial electrical.
Ya the commercial / residential world
Is pretty fun. I’m sure there are fun aspects in industrial though also right?
You could carry 1/2” and 5/8” plywood blocks in your tool belt and use clamps to hold the box?
Good tips! Thanks!
@ I forgot to ask, did you take the green screw out of the bus bar?
You don't want to cut the neutral wires that short as it will force you to splicel in the future to be able to use GFCI and AFCI breakers. With that panel you can land them lower than the corresponding breaker.
That’s a really good point! Thanks for the tip!
So you just used the label on the hots to make up your circuit list yes? So after each securement in the breaker you notated the cut wire label on your breaker list? Gotta remember to do it after each cut.
Yes sir! That’s how we do it!
@@landerselectric - I was thinking well that's double work. But you cannot trace back to the main label once you zip tie them all together.
I personally wouldn't put tandem breakers in a new panel, i would use a panel with more spaces instead, it leaves more options for future.
What brand and model is the torque screwdriver you use?
I use the capri. I bought it at Home Depot. Problem is it just broke. Researching now to find a better brand. Does anyone know a good brand for torquing screwdrivers?
WIHA makes a great Torque Screw Driver, I own one myself and am loving it. Very high quality product.
Can you please buy a handheld label printer for your labels - no hand writing! It would be so much cleaner. You can get a nice LabelWorks for $200 or something even cheaper Dymo for like $50
That’s a great tip. We have one in the van that we label the dead front with.
Just a heads up you can post a link to all the tools you use in your videos and there will be a button on screen for people to click and you can get commissions. So that panel, those wire dikes, those insulated Milwaukees, that tool belt, that torque screw driver. Lost money.
I do have the links in the description of the video, but I think it would be helpful for people to be able to click it on the screen. And to be clear, I want you to know that I only post tools that I’ve been using for years and years and years. I don’t post worthless tools that break all the time. My channel will never be a channel that’s all about money. Much more concerned about making sure I recommend quality product for anyone who needs them. Thanks for the tip!
@@landerselectric that’s understandable. The Awesome Framers channel has videos with the “Products” bubble link for reference
3 inch hex head screws this guy something special. Uses his mouth to open a sharpie let me guess he gets sick quite often. I worked with village idiots like that before there fun to watch.
😂😂😂And yes sir, Inspector wants 3 inch hex heads for Main 200 or 400 AMP Panels.
Clean panel, don't really care for the "sheathing-clamp" on the feeder (looks sloppy to me), I prefer to use a J-nail or an appropriate sized clamp/strap. Nice work!
Appreciate the encouragement! Sheathing clamp isn’t my favorite either but it’s what I had.