How to Pour a Smooth Air Crete Panel
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- Today we are pouring six panels we had planned on doing eight and the doghouse but we ran into a couple hiccups (problems) that turned out to be better for it in the end. The Honey Do Carpenter has got the Pouring down and it looks perfect, smooth and so satisfying. Air crete is Fire Proof, lightweight, and bug resistant. If you want to make it on your own (DIY) Then you can check out-out shop below. Pay close attention to the quality of foam that is being produced by Darwin's invention the FOAM MATE. It Bar-none produces the best foam on the market.
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get a couple sheets of melamine. put those on top of the plywood your are currently pouring on. concrete wont stick to it and probably give a nicer texture to the finished surface. 4x8 sheets are 20 bucks at the big orange store.
Maybe you'll have an aircrete apprentice program soon, LOL, but learning while doing with some one who's done it, is much easier than doing your own trail blazing, that said, I like seeing you and others innovate and develop this technology, to give a complete novice the courage to try their hand at it... 👍👍
On the topic of chickenwire mesh - i know it would be more time consuming, but one option would be to cut it 2-4" wider than the panel width, and then bend 1-2" tabs lengthwise on both sides, thus creating a shallow U-shaped profile. Then drop it in. It would 1) keep the mesh suspended above the bottom of the form by the width of the tabs, 2) straighten the entire mesh insert and prevent it from bending (probably not an issue anyway)
Greetings from Russia, from distant Siberia! Are you making panels for the shed? And how they will unite. Uvazhuha, it turns out, and Americans know how to do their own. Well done!!!
Love your positiveness !!!
The foam is looking better and better. What have you added to the end of the Foam-Mate Nozzle? Is it just an extension? Does it improve the quality of the foam?
good job
I don't recall getting an answer on another video but are you using the hand soap? Or the Shampoo?
Hi Darwin. Great work! Got your plans off Etsy. Can you let us know how much your panels weigh? Also, is it feasible to pour a panel half as thick, but twice as wide?
great job guys !!
I thought you already did a video on this.
Hey there from Sunshiney CALIFORNIA where the sun isn't up yet. Haven't made it home yet from working the night before. Stopped at Denny's to get me a quick pick me up at 4am and guess what appeared on my TH-cam feed, yep it was the Honey Do Couple. You must have been up at the crack of dawn pouring those panels. LOVE LOVE LOVE you both. Awesome work. While you were pouring a thought came across, I could use those panels for planter boxes as a narrow garden bed along fence in my back yard.
You guys ROCK. keep up the great work but try to sleep in every once in awhile.
Awesome!!! Whats the mix ratio for your air crete? Is that sufficient to use to leveler for a concrete floor?
Oi qual o traço você utiliza
Hi
Thanks for sharing.
May i suggest you to put some plots (air crete plots for example) under the mesh,plots are placed on a way that the mesh is at least 3 cm over the bottom of the frame.
Then the mesh mon't appear.
Hope it 'll help.
Is your aircrete mix fluid enough that you could base-tap the bottom of your blue plastic barrel and just gravity dump it into the forms without needing to tip it over into them?
Or, perhaps you could seal the top and pump it out from the base with a hose system.
What is the R-value/size of your panels? Weight? Strength? How many ways can I waterproof? I made waterproof adobe blocks in the fifties that still look almost the same, and without cement. But they are thermal sinks, not insulators. Combining the two would save as foil-backed polyiso foam is expensive and hard to find.
I'd like to inquire into how much it would cost to have you pour 1" thick Aircrete panels. They would be mostly 12" and 18" wide and 3' to 5' long. If you are interested?
Do you not take off the silver form off? I am new to this and I am not sure if you took them off or not.
Wondering how good air crete panels would be when suppressing audio for a rock band practice room. Usually high mass plus mechanical decoupling is the ticket to containing bass frequencies..wonder if you could do a high volume audio test on your shed for us when you are done.
Love it all. Show us your SHED .PLEASE. AUSSIE FAN
Good morning
thank you for making the video...
Just wondering if it's possible that you could weigh one of those panels and share that information with us.. if possible.. Doesn't have to be perfect just a rough idea... I just subscribed to your Channel and looking forward to the next video
Hardwoodbuyer ,
He states in another video , they weigh 85 lbs. and can make them 15 lbs lighter (or 65 lbs)if needed.
Hardwoodbuyer ,
He states in another video , they weigh 85 lbs. and can make them 15 lbs lighter (or 65 lbs)if needed.
William R. Thank you
That's a newer bigger nozzle??? Did you show this before?? How'd you make it??
Great video. How are the panels going to be held together? What proportions of ciment to foam please?
The reinforcing Chickenwirte should be in the middle of the Panel. Why Chickenwirte when you can buy light weight rebar nets?
Hi there.. totally loving your channel and the work you have been doing with air crete..
I have one question for you.. If you leave a lump of aircrete in a bucket of water does it eventually suck up the water and sink to the bottom of the bucket? I ask as im considering using aircrete for making water tanks... As it floats there is a chance that the bottom of the pond or tank might try to brake away and float. Im hoping that it will suck up the water and sink...
Oh have you though of using hemp to reinforce yur panels. Hemp Aircrete ?
I had the thought also. My other thought was, at one time I saw thin 1"-2" long slivers of graphite which almost looked like tinsel cut into 2" pieces. Would that work if a couple hand fulls were mixed into the final mix of the foam and cement slurry? (I have been watching your videos for quite awhile and enjoy watching the progress)
You can reinforce foam concrete with e.g.
Straw or hay,
Woodshavings (carefull some types of wood contain sugar that will decrease cement curing)
Steel fibres
Polymer fibres
Glassfibers (caution: some glass fibre qualities will dissolve in cement while alkalic)
Hemp fibres
Coconut fibres
Wool and other hairs
Caña
Etc
Important
For the Initial cement slurry a minimum of 360 kg cement/mtr3 of aircrete is needed.
In other words: if you want to produce 1m3 aircrete with a density ( after curing & drying) of ~400 kg /m3 aircrete you need 360 kg cement. The remaining 40 kg is Cristalline water within the aircrete.
If you want a higher aircrete density e.g. 600 kg/m3 you must ad 200 kg of Sand to the wet mixture. For 800 kg/m3 you ad 400 kg of Sand.
The higher the density, the stronger (compressive strength) it will be but other properties change too!
For wall panels of buildings personally I would concider casting the wall panels thick enough and with sufficient compressive strength ans with a light reinforcing net that is corrosion protected e.g. with Bitumen (forget the chickenwire). Corrosion protection is a must due to rapid carbonitation of "free cement" in the mix and changing Ph value.
Of course it is possible to cast the aircrete panels in more than one density. A high density layer for increased compressive strength ans ob top a low density layer for thermal & acoustical insulation.
Aircrete is not a magical product that is suitable for all purposes! It is a nice-product with great potential
Many mix designs and filler materials are possible but must be designed well and for specific purposes.
Building a house with aircrete of the wrong design mix will lead to disappointment or even worste
Carefully choosen aircrete design mixtures and good Engineering practices will lead to success.
Yes foam concrete has advantages but dis-advantages too. Last but not least...
Enthousiasm does not replace specific foam concrete and/or construction knowledge.l!
Bert
in beautiful Spain
That was a cool tool you were using to cut the wire! What is it and where can I get one? 😀
Nice nibbler! Beats snipping.
instead of metal wire, they could use a matrix of thin rope lengths for full coverage strength and flexibility. no rest, permanent strength and crack resistance
Can't wait to see some panels linked together. I like the idea of potentially welding the forms together as part of the structure. I assume you obtained those metal C-beams at Lowes, but I cannot locate them. What are they called (and where'd you find them if not Lowe's)?
They are available at Lowes as ProSTUD Galvanized Steel Stud if anyone else had trouble finding them.
Sir
Please steel net midal of the concrete because good strength of concrete
how much a density of crete , after you mixed with that foam.
and how much a density of foam actualy??
I use a 64lbs slurry mix that is expanded to 24 gallons or 3 times. The actual specific gravity of 1cu foot is 27-29 lbs vs 150 lbs as is typical in normal concrete.
@@HoneyDoCarpenter how about the strengh presure ?
Wonder how many 94 lb. Bags of cement went into that wall laying on the deck
2/3 of a bag per panel
Looks like you have lost a little around the middle and hair around the chin. Of the hair went to the top of your head. Mrs Honeydew does help getting those forms filled with reenforcing material. Your two person production crew does lead to some serious outakes that must help keeping the morale up.
Hello I'm civil engineer and working on foam concrete. It's my final year project and I'm also making this foam generator inspired from you. I'm having problem in finding foaming solutions please suggest foaming agents which are better and generate high density foam. More if you may share your experience regarding foam concrete then please share. Thank you
sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate. Is a good way to go. It is the base ingredient for many soaps safe for use on our bodies and it performs very well and stays in its tight condense bubble form for a long time. Long enough time to allow for the chemical reaction associated with cement to flash off and gain its initial stiffness.
I use suave shampoo as it is very accessible and the main ingredient in it is Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate. In its base ingredient form it can be accessed on line if you want to experiment with it that way. Drexel industrial foam agent also works well, even maybe a slight bit better than Suave. However it is way less accessible and has a long list of hazards associated with it.
You only need the surface tension of the bubbles to last long enough for the initial stiffness of the cement, so how much better it is for this application becomes a mute point.
When you are building your machine for foam generation you want the regulator bulb volume to be very precise as the shape and volume aid in the mixing process. Also the density or compaction of your stainless steel scrub pads to be inserted in the mixing tube following the regulator bulb must be quite compact so the volume of the pipe vs the number of scrub pads is critical as well if you want a very dense foam as an end result. I suggest you purchase an end gun foam Mate nozzle from me or a kit which includes all the components that is listed in my Etsy store honey do carpenter shop for best results. I will be list ing the Kit very soon. within the next 48 hours. I hope this helps, Best regards and good luck. HDC
@ Malik yousaf
Toll my experience the best foaming concentrate is made from proteines and /or ceratine dissoved in lye and after saturation neutralized with acid.
The ceratine comes from e.g. waste chicken feathers, horns and hooves and hairs of animals. Hydrolised blood is also excellent.
All is available as slaughterhouse waste.
Ceratin / Protein based foam consist of Micro hubbles that have a long life time and a consistency of whipped cream.
Regards,
Bert
Bert España thank you
@malik yousaf
I have answered your question about the best type of foam concentrate already and will give some more info in this topic.
The type of foam concentrate is rather important since it may influence properties of the finished (hardened) concrete quite a bit.
The size of each air bubble that is surrounded by cement and a filler is important too! The Proteine and keratine foam concentrate form micro bubbles and are able to make the finished foam concrete somewhat water repellent. The finished foam concrete has a uniform very fine structure which increases the compressive strength. In case you ad special additives you can improve foam concrete qualities e.g. impermeable for water.
On the other hand, using synthetic types of foam concentrate you can minupulate properties of the finished foam concrete too.
So the first questions you must anwer for yourself are:
*Wich puropse has the the foam concrete?
*Indoor or outdoor use?
*What properties shall it have?
*Compressive strength?
*Density?
*Thermal insulating important?
*Repellent?
*Open structured fc desired?
*Prefab elements?
*In situ applications?
* Reinforced?
*if yes, what type of reinforcement?
*Filler material selection? E.g. Sand, flyash, polystyrene Granulate, straw, hay, woodshavings, fine slags from the metallugic industry, expanded clay aggregate, and so on...
Cement content of finished foam concrete:
Never less than 360 kg of cement per 1m3 foam concrete. This gives a specific density of 400kg/m3. (The missing 40kg is the Cristalline water within the cement structure)
If you want to increase density to improve compressive strength, than ad the equivalent amount of sand.
Example:
The recipie for a specific density of 800 kg /m3 is..
360 kg cement + 400kg sand + water + foam. You can check density by weighing a 10 liter bucket füll of fc.
Calculating he exact amount of water to be used i will not go into yet..
Reinforcement is another Paragraph of the book of FC making.
Malik, you as a civil engineer know what carbonitation of free cement in concrete is and what it does to the Ph value thereof and to the steel rebars within.. think deeply about that and tell me your solution!
By the way, I know a contractor specialised in construction of Tennis yards. He applies an extremely diffuse type of fc for the floor to allow rain water through...
On top the red gravel....
A very simple fc application indeed but he makes a good living with that.
Regards
Bert
In beautiful Spain
Bert España i need mix design for foam concrete if you can assist me then please
If it possible to leave your email address or whatsapp then please write for better communication about foam...
Thank You
👍🏻Consistent results! The doghouse ought to be a breeze!👍🏻
I have been looking and looking and to my disbelief, nobody on TH-cam has attempted to simply build 1 sold wall of Aircrete. If that chicken screen makes support for these slabs, then some smaller Rebar should secure a whole wall, as 1 solid piece. Very sad nobody has tried this after all these years. The other thing i notice too is everyone is wasting time mixing in containers, why not mix the batch IN the Form itself?
Just out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the aircrete in these panels? You are basically creating a metal stud wall (without continuous top and bottom plates). It seems they have no structural value since the studs in a conventional wall would provide this, or at the least they are redundant. Basically, you are replacing the exterior sheathing and interior gyp. bd. and insulation (except that since it is a shed, you probably wouldn't insulate). Have you considered using some sort of reusable form with a frameless panel? I am not trying to rain on your parade. I like your videos and I am genuinely curious. Also, have you ever tried using fiber reinforcement in your mix? Thanks for the interesting videos.
Zaiz tool🤔
out of interest, and realizing it would be a little more work why not put little risers on the screen so it's suspended half way through the mix?
ok... so.. why? This can't be economical from time/money/work... outside of fun. Why?
He says that he wants a lavatory hopefully he meant labratory
"Labratory" isn't a word. Did you mean laboratory? Glass houses, man...
Been watching for weeks now and nothing new is happening. You are not integrating any of the suggestions peeps are making to make this technique better, faster, stronger. You seem bent on using lots of money buying those metal forms instead of using something re-usable and us still seem to want to mash the screen material to one side of the pour, it just seems it would be better use of the product sandwiched in the middle. As far as a kickstarter, dude, other countries are using this stuff already and are building with it. There are tests already done, you are wasting your own time on a lab trying to re-invent the air-crete wheel. Watch instead of just posting on youtube and you will see what others are doing. The USA construction world is not going to allow this to take hold until it becomes profitable to them, kind of like all the inventors who have come up with more economical combustion engines, you know, for our cars, big oil will not stand for it. Big construction will not allow this either so just keep it on a DIY level and make it more affordable by coming up with a re-usable form to do those panels. Just saying....
Hey Guys: Back off! The steel studs provide not only the form but a proven structure. And he is using double the steel required with the16" OC spacing. The hardware cloth mesh in the bottom will not be on the surface after the air crete stucco is applied to exterior . The purpose of the air crete is to provide an insulated panel system that is fire proof, encapsulating the steel structure so it does not fail in a fire. This also provides protection from termites and other reasons for the failure of wood structures in high moisture climatic zones; abought half of the world.
As for the time line the mechanical tests can only be reasonably preformed after 28 days. And that is only compression tests; to follow are the tension testing to the failure point of the complete panel system. Before it can be considered for ceiling , floor and roof applications.
Also by nature American officials will only consider building systems created and certified by Americans. So it does not matter a Dam what has been proved and certified in Europe or anywhere else in the world.
When you are in the R&D stage you must be able to test and retest every minor change you make; before going to a third party lab for conformation. Then you must test the final applications using your proposed materials and assemblies before going for certification.
The more HDC can do in house the faster the other stages can proceed. As for a business plan he is trying to provide good information for DIY's at a reasonable cost. Trying to be a major changer in the construction industry is a waste of time and if you come up with a game changer the big players will force you out with a fraction of a cent on the dollar for your effort ; if you are lucky.
Saw a friend develop a unique wood product to make timbers of any size from small weed trees. After ten years and all the hoops had been gone through; he needed investors to build the plant to produce the product. He designed the plant and the production equipment as well as bringing it into production. But within a year was forced out of his company. The investors sold the company to those who didn't want it to come to market at a tidy profit to them and shut it down.
Enough I don't want to write a book. the old buy Bert
It took ten years to get the wood produce approved and it was patented as a system around the world. And a couple of years to build the production facility including the production line equipment and manufacturing process patented. Hundred of thousands of board feet of product were produced in the R&D and certification process. Then his team of advisors and investors decided it was in their best financial interest to sell to the American timber industry that does not have the tree species required in their timber lands. They grow mainly in the worlds Boreal forest. When they had the patents they dismantled the plant and killed the process in favour of their glue lam products. As my friends main input was the intellectual property and work on bringing the plant into production he was shafted by the experts you are recommending; whos loyalty was to those with the deepest pockets. And his return was a fraction of a penny on his contribution. It is not the creators of value that win it is the money professionals their experts. For HDC to release information before he is sure of it; could totally destroy his credibility and you would be at the front of the line to crucify him. As my lawyer once said to me ( Just who is this MFing SOB you want to go into business with ) As a result I never had any investors and retained 100% of the shares in my company until I sold it.
Just going to throw this in while y'all are all arguing. aircrete has been around for years in the US nothing new. So no waiting on it to catch on or be accepted.
?
Hi Honey Do...... i have an idea for your panels...... but i do hate typing.... contact me on Skype if you will....!!! I am who i am....LOVE what you are doing for the world !!!!!
Greetings from Russia, from distant Siberia! Are you making panels for the shed? And how they will unite. Uvazhuha, it turns out, and Americans know how to do their own. Well done!!!