BEST WAY TO BUILD A DOOR? - DIY Shaker Doors Part 7
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- Well we made it! Four new methods attempted and lots learnt. Hopefully there has been something over this series for DIYers at most levels. Looking forward to getting all these painted and hung soon. Links to much of the kit used down below.
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Carpenter joiner over 30 years , my method is usually m&t or sometimes loose tenon. Have a domino but too much faff to use on doors only use it for the carcases. The cheat method you describe was how I did them many many years ago but you will get more bowed doors using that method. If you have to use that method then I'd recommend using MDF prep tape for the edges to hide the MDF laminations. It's paintable iron on edging
Awesome break down of cabinet doors construction with diff methods. Cheers buddy
Literally about to make some shaker doors, this video is PERFECT.
I've got to say, I have thoroughly enjoyed the series. I might be bias but it's so good to hear a British person rather than a DIYer from a cross the pond. Keep up the good work. Subscribed.
Gosforth handyman also UK based from Newcastle
Thanks for taking the time to share the process with us, Tim.
Great series, I have enjoyed watching and learning.
Id go exactly the same format. Great series. Really enjoyed it.
Thanks Tim for great series
I so agree. pocket holes are easy and quick but for this kind of thing, the traditional way is so much nicer and like you say, once the set up is done, you'll shoot right through them in no time... great set of videos, Tim. keep 'em coming please :-) hope you, Jo and the kids are safe and healthy.
I just made a set of doors over the weekend, using method #2. I used the table saw for all the shaping. I prefer it to a router when possible. Nice video.
Thanks Tim, very interesting conclusion- I think I’d agree, one you’ve invested in the setup, the results are more rewarding
Great mini-series Tim, enjoyed watching you test out each method. Personally, for asthetics, i prefer the traditional method. They look so much more pleasing to the eye, assuming they are going to be opening doors. It does take a while to set up, like you say, however the rewards will keep coming back when you admire you're own handy work each time you access the cupboard.
thanks for helping out the beginning woodworker
This series was SUPER helpful when making the custom wall cabinet which I just completed (and it looks GREAT!) THANKS!
Thanks for the extensive comparison. Very timely for me, as I am needing to make shaker doors.
Great series. Enjoyed watching this. Thanks a lot
Great series and a good honest review again......................but you’ve got to give the the Domino a go! It’s only 1 more set of doors, & who knows, it might just be your new favourite!!!! Thanks for sharing and keep em coming 👍
I’m sure it would have been an option if I had the tool! Maybe one day. 😀
Great series Tim, very instructive
I whipped up a bunch of storm windows for an older house, and stumbled on a 3 cutter raised panel rail+stile kit. Setup was a bit twitchy, but indeed, once that was set up I could whip up any number of windows in an afternoon. Once extra very very simple operation on the table saw turned the slot into a recess for accepting glazing, without compromising anything, and the results were solid and attractive. and now I have decorative options going forward.
Are there any TH-cam videos showing something like this?
@@seancrowe3353 I did pretty much just what our host here did… Using a rail+ stile set is just like using the tongue and groove cutters, mine just had a slightly more ornate round-over on one side that would recess the goove for the raise panel, or for the glazing, in my case.
Great series of videos!
great series, keep up fantastic work and most of all keep safe
I think I am going the traditional route but if the door is to be painted the centre panel may need prefinishing, as the wood changes dimensions with the season any painting must allow for this movement or unpainted timber may suddenly make an appearance. Probably best to use poplar frame with ply or mdf panel?
Great video series; and I love that you don't hide your mistakes! Question for you, have you ever used pivot and slide hinges for cupboard doors?
Could you use three layers of 6mm MDF - two sets of rails & stiles and a full size panel - to create a door with the shaker effect on the inside and keep an 18mm total depth? Or would that lack strength.
You have missed old-style morrtice and tenon joinery. Not that I would recommend it for lightweight doors and drawer fronts. My preference is method 1 using the two cutters. This is much quicker (for multiple units) if you mill the rails and stiles first, then cut to length. I finally lost it with pocket holes last week when trying to make a large face frame. Joint was neither accurate or strong enough for me. I bought a mid-market dowel jig and started again. Gave me strength but didn't improve accuracy - couldn't get the jig stable on the rail ends, was okay on the stiles. I like biscuits but sometimes they are too big, even zeros. I'd love to try dominos but can't get anywhere near affording the machine
Very good but I would check out Jones Interiors and have a look at his method. One sheet of MDF with the centre cut out. A thinner piece then inlayed in the centre. A bit of waste but simple and no joints.
Great info
For paint grade shakers, best results to go with one piece construction with cnc router from mr mdf with melamine. No messing about with this 5 piece nonsense and you don’t need to paint the back of the door. That’s how the pro’s do it.
Congratulations on 90k subs! Great series this.
Well now you've thrown me....
I was about to make up 8 wardrobe doors using Peter Millard's loose tenon technique... But I also have the proper rail and stile router bits.
Mine will be all MDF though, and I think I prefer the idea of a loose tenon over a proper tenon cut into mdf.
I've Seen made old cabinet doors use rope. On the backside to hold in panel
For the pocket hole option, why can't you just glue the centre ms section in and be done? Why do you need the strips around the edge?
Watch for where your hinge screws go if you go the faux method .. they will inevitably end up right on the glue join !
I agree with your conclusions - I am therefore a purist!
There just didn't seem to be enough time advantage with the other methods - other than the all mdf version.
I like pocket holes, just not for this purpose.
Yeah. If you’re going to cheat at all you may as well go the cut and stick MDF route otherwise best to stick with the time tested method. 👍
Your antics have persuaded me to finally buy a router. What router bits do you use? There seems to be a massive difference on the cost from £15 per Silverline 12 piece set to over £100 for similar sets.
Mat Davies I have a set for each site router. I think both are trend sets with around 12 cutters in each. They were from Screwfix and have done 95% of what I need to do. Then I have just ordered the budget cutters for one-off jobs from Amazon. No doubt It is better to invest in the expensive kit if you’re using every day.
@@TheRestorationCouple Thanks for advice, I have ordered a Makita 18v Router as I like the idea of cordless router for the freedom of movement. We live in France so I will have to wait a while for it to arrive. I am hoping to renovate a bench first, currently only have the cast iron ends so need to get hold of some oak. This is part of a whole house renovation (all plumbing, all electrics, roof, wall insulation, kitchen, bathrooms etc). Keep the videos coming I really enjoy them. Now going to catch up with your latest video on electrics.
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I think you need to look at what was available when this style first originated. The faux shaker would probably come out tops with today’s power tools and material but then the style would not exist if we started with today’s technology.
Awesome vid! ❤️ Come and join our party 🎉🎤🎉