There is a general law, that in the event your fuel pump is going to die - it will ALWAYS die within a day or so of fully filling your tank. Thankfully, this time it was under your control and timing!
DrFiero not only fuel pumps, I filled my car up one night, drove 3miles home, the next morning I drove 3 miles before totaling it. 6 miles into a 450 mile tank
The fact that the pump didn’t stop running when you unplugged the fuse points to an electrical problem, if the circuit ever shorted out then it might start a fire
It is certainly strange. I haven't figured it out for sure but I'm not sure the fuse is supposed to be there at all. Found quite a few mentions online of GMT900 trucks not having a fuse (or sometimes no relay at all) in that location despite the fuse diagram showing one there. The relay is apparently used on my truck but the fuse did appear to do nothing when removed, maybe it didn't come with one in that slot and the previous owner added it because he noticed it was missing? I have to look into it a bit more though.
For people who don't want to drop the tank: put a jack under the tank, remove the straps, and push the tank to the right and you will have enough room to get the bolt out. Reinstall the bolt in the opposite direction. I used k2500 springs rated at about 2400 lbs and left the stock lift block out. The stiffer spring really eliminated the corner roll and improved load capacity.
My grandpa used to have old chevy long bed 2wd farm trucks he'd stack square bales of hay over the top of the roof and they'd be sitting on the bump stops in the back😂😂
for the creaking noise; get some liquid wrench silicone spray (or similar) and hose down the points where the leafs meet. if that doesn't fix it, you're going to need to put some silicone lube (not the spray!) on the eyelets and all the surrounding bits. permatex silver anti-seize would also work, though smells more than regular silicone greases.
This is probably the most helpful fuel pump replacement video on the tubes. I am literally in the middle of the hell that is removing and praying I can salvage the high-pressure line. GM, would it have killed you to use plastic? c'mon. smh.
My god I'm glad that I live in Mississippi!! That road salt is an absolute savage on metal, shit!! I just can't believe how bad the fuel pump was. Glad you caught it before something bad happened.
I just did my fuel pump on my channel last year. Make sure to keep an eye on your rear cross member that's under the spare tire. Mine was paper thin, so I welded in a 3/8" C channel.
Yea, that sender looked about due for replacement. And given how those lines "disconnected" from it, I suspect you would have had a fuel leak in that area in the near future... But that's addressed now. :-)
I have the same model truck, bought mine with 150k miles. At 170k I had to replace the rear end because of bad wheel bearings wearing into the casting from overloading over the years, if you suspect it’s been overloaded in the past (and has higher milage) it’s cheap insurance to replace the rear wheel bearings and seals before they get too bad and ruin the casting. For those that think I should have heard the wheel bearing, I wish I did trust me. Might have saved me a ton of money but it wasn’t loud at all.
Man, it's scary how corroded that sender was. I imagine you were no more than a little bit of time and a few road bumps from having the lines break and a big fuel spill, and possibly a fire. What the heck was GM thinking using plain steel? I think it should be a mandate that all fuel delivery related metal components be made of aluminum or stainless steel. Too dangerous, glad you caught that! I'm surprised there wasn't some sort of recall related to that part.
A easy way to get to the top of fuel tank, remove the 4 bolts on gas fill side and loosen the opposite side, remove tailgate, and taillights wire connector, fuel filler neck then raise the side up of bed and support with a brace of some kind !
@@FuzzyDiceProjects I was wondering why as well. I would have certainly hand sanded that crusty thing or at least hit it with a wire wheel to knock the chunks off. But.. I reach a point in most little projects where everything else go away and all that is left is "fuck it just get it all back together!"
I have replaced these before and after I clean them up, (as well as the new sending unit) I give it like 4 or 5 coats of rust paint. Lay it on thick enough, you don't need to worry about it rusting ever again..
I worked with a leaf spring manufacturer to get lift and capacity for my 2000 Excursion. I ended up with numbers that are between SRW 1 ton and DRW springs for same model year Super Duty pickemups. New shackles, bushings, and other hardware all around were part of the program. Ended up with a 5.5 inch lift, but that was a side benefit. Two replacement hitch bolts later and my rig had exactly the same hitch parts as an F350. I can report that the truck can easily tow with a gross weight rating over 21k. ...ok so my truck rides like an empty dumptruck.... 🤷♂️
These trucks have a bad problem with the sending units rusting through the lines, especially the fuel pressure line. My 09’ Tahoe did that and made my driveway smell like a gas station. It never sprayed everywhere so it was mostly contained up on top of the tank. Took it apart and the fuel hoses were completely rust-welded to the sending unit. So yeah. That was fun.
Start using fluid film or wool wax on your vehicles. It will save your vehicles from rusting out. If you reach out to fluid film on Instagram, they may send you some free for a review like they did for me.
I had to wait until the end for the Jury rigging, but the electrical tape on the leaf springs reminds me that you can have a shop of every tool needed, and still find a way to make a repair job look sloppy.
Late to the party, but hi! One of the easiest ways I’ve found for removing seized lock rings if you ever have this issue you again is that, auto parts sell those 5 dollar plastic lock ring removers for Chrysler and Euro products. If you get one of those and a good ratchet they’ll hop off.
I leveled the front of mine as well. But I only went 2" up front. So not perfectly level. But it allows the largest tire clearance with major mods or metal work. It also reduces driveline angles compared to 3.5" (or similar) and leaves enough rake so when loaded, it's not riding around like a 2 year old with a soggy diaper. I haven't needed to upgrade the rear yet. And I've gone well over the 1900lb payload on a few occasions. (Have yet to actually ride the bump stops even with a full skid of interlock brick or cubic yard of stone.
Just a suggestion. I watch Mustie 1 a lot. He sprays the undercarriages of his vehicles with Bar and Chain oil. I think this would definitely help you.
I agree with unbolting the bed and tilting the drivers side up and blocking to hold it there. Leave the bolts in on the passenger side with the nuts very loose. I’ve also removed all the bolts and slid the bed back to clear the tank but that’s a two man job. Tilting is a 15 min job once you’ve done it, then you full access to the top of the tank. Dropping the tank, working on your back blind to remove the connectors is? Well, there’s a better way.
@Fuzzy Dice Projects, Keep up the good work, I have a few suggestion for this truck, install a LED Cargo Bed Light on it, restore the frame, install black wheels, install a custom rear bumper, do sound deadening with it (the best sound deadening on the market is second skin) install a touch screen audio system, install LED gage lights, install aftermarket headlights, tail lights, and brake lights on it, and install a train horn on it
Could have upgraded to 2500 springs. What some people don’t realize when you do a lift that uses leaf springs, don’t realize spring hanger angle needs to change as well. You’ve all seen the lifted trucks that sag in the back with any kind of weight in the back, and here’s your sign.
At about the 11 minute and on mark, you can really tell in your voice you weren't having it. LMAO, the joys of saving money! Hahaha 😂. Thanks for the video bro!
watching your video after my recent disaster. same exact issue, of course my local parts store salesman was as helpful as dead donkey, instead pointing out to me to get the Pig tail cut back nylon line use it, kept letting me buy crap that didn't help, yep mine didn't come out, had to remove the bed, with the addition of 4, 2 in hole to access bed bolts, Chevy engineers, i swear they design this crap just out of spite. found Dorman p/n 55157 Bolt kit to replace that abortion of corroded mess. same style but I will slather it antiseze before installing these tomorrow.
At 1:44 on the left next to the shocks. What is that coil or spring looking thing? Mine completely rusted off....my thought was when the bed gets to heavy it sits on that?
Good day from Ont. Canada Very interesting video. I have 2013 chev, 350, klms. I was wondering were you got your fuel pump from , that sounded very reasonable. I did sub. Thanks
MI Truck Spring told me to replace the second leaf you must cut and drill it to size, that being said drill the load spring and install the wear pads. Mine just broke so I’m going to cheat for now and separate the leafs on the truck and repair them until summer
"SHOULD" but they wont. because GM are aholes. why else would they design vehicles where you have to take half the vehicle apart to repair simple things with consumable (stuff that you know wears over time) parts.
Didn't think to use your sandblaster to clean the rust out of those hose connections?? That would have made it much easier to get the rusty pipes out of the hoses. We ALWAYS replace the lock ring, and the fuel pressure line in my shop when we do those. Its not really worth the time to remove the rusty metal out of the old pipe, and possibly causing a fuel leak. But it has been done.... Also...be careful using a vacuum around gas fumes!! Can suck fumes up and make the vacuum go BOOM! Or shoot flame out of the vacuum!
Hello Kid, David here NOT JOAN! Darn that thing! Anyway, I often heard the phrase "Gravity she's a bitch." But for the wrench turner is ALWAYS been Rust that's the real BITCH! I like Gravity! Anyway Great Video Kiddo! Keep em coming you'll warm an old mans heart!
The big ("700 ft/lbs") 20v one used in this video is quite good, the only real complaints I have are that it is a little bit bulky and very heavy. Using it upside down, laying on the floor to install the lift on this truck and the leaf springs actually convinced me to get a smaller one for most uses. The newer, smaller ("300 ft/lbs") 20v is half the weight and half the power. Still enough to loosen the vast majority of things I come across and it's much more pleasant to use. Good to have the larger one when something wants to put up a fight though.
Would be wise to probably rig up a cheap electrolysis setup for small parts like this, itll at least bring it down to bare metal so you can coat it n re use it rather than faf online for fiddly parts.
There is a general law, that in the event your fuel pump is going to die - it will ALWAYS die within a day or so of fully filling your tank. Thankfully, this time it was under your control and timing!
DrFiero not only fuel pumps, I filled my car up one night, drove 3miles home, the next morning I drove 3 miles before totaling it. 6 miles into a 450 mile tank
The fact that the pump didn’t stop running when you unplugged the fuse points to an electrical problem, if the circuit ever shorted out then it might start a fire
It is certainly strange. I haven't figured it out for sure but I'm not sure the fuse is supposed to be there at all. Found quite a few mentions online of GMT900 trucks not having a fuse (or sometimes no relay at all) in that location despite the fuse diagram showing one there. The relay is apparently used on my truck but the fuse did appear to do nothing when removed, maybe it didn't come with one in that slot and the previous owner added it because he noticed it was missing? I have to look into it a bit more though.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Wasn't there something with a module above the spare tire that replaced the fuse and the relay?
So I looked into the schematics again and it looks like the fuse 20 FSCM and fuse 56 ECM-IGN are responsible for the fuel pump.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Is the fuse socket even wired for anything? I'd be interested to see a multi-meter put on it.
My 08 dosent have a pump or relay it goes off the fuel control deal in the back
For people who don't want to drop the tank: put a jack under the tank, remove the straps, and push the tank to the right and you will have enough room to get the bolt out. Reinstall the bolt in the opposite direction.
I used k2500 springs rated at about 2400 lbs and left the stock lift block out. The stiffer spring really eliminated the corner roll and improved load capacity.
“I smacked myself in the jaw but I got it” that’s the way to do it
My grandpa used to have old chevy long bed 2wd farm trucks he'd stack square bales of hay over the top of the roof and they'd be sitting on the bump stops in the back😂😂
this is the only restoration channel that just reuses crusty parts
Is it possible if you have time we could get a tool box tour in the near future
Since I can't have any project car what so ever, everyone of your videos is a true delight to me.
for the creaking noise; get some liquid wrench silicone spray (or similar) and hose down the points where the leafs meet. if that doesn't fix it, you're going to need to put some silicone lube (not the spray!) on the eyelets and all the surrounding bits. permatex silver anti-seize would also work, though smells more than regular silicone greases.
This is probably the most helpful fuel pump replacement video on the tubes. I am literally in the middle of the hell that is removing and praying I can salvage the high-pressure line. GM, would it have killed you to use plastic? c'mon. smh.
My god I'm glad that I live in Mississippi!! That road salt is an absolute savage on metal, shit!! I just can't believe how bad the fuel pump was. Glad you caught it before something bad happened.
I just did my fuel pump on my channel last year. Make sure to keep an eye on your rear cross member that's under the spare tire. Mine was paper thin, so I welded in a 3/8" C channel.
Check the frame crossmembers on it. They tend to rust away from where they're welded to the frame. Also check the fuel/brake lines.
Yea, that sender looked about due for replacement. And given how those lines "disconnected" from it, I suspect you would have had a fuel leak in that area in the near future... But that's addressed now. :-)
16:18 flip flops the official mechanics footwear.
I had the same exact issues with my fuel module replacement. What a mess!! Gotta love rust
I have the same model truck, bought mine with 150k miles. At 170k I had to replace the rear end because of bad wheel bearings wearing into the casting from overloading over the years, if you suspect it’s been overloaded in the past (and has higher milage) it’s cheap insurance to replace the rear wheel bearings and seals before they get too bad and ruin the casting. For those that think I should have heard the wheel bearing, I wish I did trust me. Might have saved me a ton of money but it wasn’t loud at all.
You could maybe spray some fluid film on that fuel pump assembly every now and then to prevent it from rusting like that ever again.
Man, it's scary how corroded that sender was. I imagine you were no more than a little bit of time and a few road bumps from having the lines break and a big fuel spill, and possibly a fire. What the heck was GM thinking using plain steel? I think it should be a mandate that all fuel delivery related metal components be made of aluminum or stainless steel. Too dangerous, glad you caught that! I'm surprised there wasn't some sort of recall related to that part.
I love how a suspicious 3rd hand appeared to push the floor jack :D haha
Since you have the helpers try pulling the bed next time. It is easier to work on things from above vs on your back.
It took me til now to notice the Combine symbol on the back of the tailgate. Neat.
"A 4x4 on the floor jack" love it.
What
Holy shit! That thing looks like it was 10 years under the sea!
Standard rust where they salt the shit out of the roads
A easy way to get to the top of fuel tank, remove the 4 bolts on gas fill side and loosen the opposite side, remove tailgate, and taillights wire connector, fuel filler neck then raise the side up of bed and support with a brace of some kind !
I just changed my leaf springs on my 96 Tahoe LT 4x4. I love the look.
why didnt you just sand blast the new locking ring
This was filmed a few months before I set the sand blasting rig up, otherwise it would have been a good option though it is still time-consuming
@@FuzzyDiceProjects I was wondering why as well. I would have certainly hand sanded that crusty thing or at least hit it with a wire wheel to knock the chunks off. But.. I reach a point in most little projects where everything else go away and all that is left is "fuck it just get it all back together!"
@@FuzzyDiceProjects that logical i forget some times your videos are in chronological order cheap on rocking on dude
Eh, just hit it with a wire wheel.
I have replaced these before and after I clean them up, (as well as the new sending unit) I give it like 4 or 5 coats of rust paint. Lay it on thick enough, you don't need to worry about it rusting ever again..
I worked with a leaf spring manufacturer to get lift and capacity for my 2000 Excursion. I ended up with numbers that are between SRW 1 ton and DRW springs for same model year Super Duty pickemups. New shackles, bushings, and other hardware all around were part of the program. Ended up with a 5.5 inch lift, but that was a side benefit.
Two replacement hitch bolts later and my rig had exactly the same hitch parts as an F350. I can report that the truck can easily tow with a gross weight rating over 21k.
...ok so my truck rides like an empty dumptruck.... 🤷♂️
These trucks have a bad problem with the sending units rusting through the lines, especially the fuel pressure line. My 09’ Tahoe did that and made my driveway smell like a gas station. It never sprayed everywhere so it was mostly contained up on top of the tank. Took it apart and the fuel hoses were completely rust-welded to the sending unit. So yeah. That was fun.
Those look like Harbor Freight jackstands. (I know the jack is) if so be safe with them. They are on recall.
I just have to declare my love for this man.
Please tell me you replaced the shackle bushings off camera or something?!
Man, that tank sender/pump fought all the way.
Northern climates suck bro hats off to people that live in cold weather 🤘
Start using fluid film or wool wax on your vehicles. It will save your vehicles from rusting out. If you reach out to fluid film on Instagram, they may send you some free for a review like they did for me.
You can't use it on already rusty cars, you have to do it on a new car from day one
@@alexstromberg7696 wrong. If actually sticks better to rust. It doesn't remove rust, it just helps it from rusting more
Wow! That was quick....wellp your squeak is the bushings
I had to wait until the end for the Jury rigging, but the electrical tape on the leaf springs reminds me that you can have a shop of every tool needed, and still find a way to make a repair job look sloppy.
Late to the party, but hi!
One of the easiest ways I’ve found for removing seized lock rings if you ever have this issue you again is that, auto parts sell those 5 dollar plastic lock ring removers for Chrysler and Euro products. If you get one of those and a good ratchet they’ll hop off.
Well done, shown and narrated.
I leveled the front of mine as well. But I only went 2" up front. So not perfectly level. But it allows the largest tire clearance with major mods or metal work. It also reduces driveline angles compared to 3.5" (or similar) and leaves enough rake so when loaded, it's not riding around like a 2 year old with a soggy diaper. I haven't needed to upgrade the rear yet. And I've gone well over the 1900lb payload on a few occasions. (Have yet to actually ride the bump stops even with a full skid of interlock brick or cubic yard of stone.
Awesomeness, Sunday motoring meditation
Just a suggestion. I watch Mustie 1 a lot. He sprays the undercarriages of his vehicles with Bar and Chain oil. I think this would definitely help you.
I agree with unbolting the bed and tilting the drivers side up and blocking to hold it there. Leave the bolts in on the passenger side with the nuts very loose.
I’ve also removed all the bolts and slid the bed back to clear the tank but that’s a two man job.
Tilting is a 15 min job once you’ve done it, then you full access to the top of the tank.
Dropping the tank, working on your back blind to remove the connectors is? Well, there’s a better way.
Had an 11 that got a hole in the sending unit. Only had 80k. Gotta love the rust belt...
@Fuzzy Dice Projects, Keep up the good work, I have a few suggestion for this truck, install a LED Cargo Bed Light on it, restore the frame, install black wheels, install a custom rear bumper, do sound deadening with it (the best sound deadening on the market is second skin) install a touch screen audio system, install LED gage lights, install aftermarket headlights, tail lights, and brake lights on it, and install a train horn on it
Could have upgraded to 2500 springs. What some people don’t realize when you do a lift that uses leaf springs, don’t realize spring hanger angle needs to change as well. You’ve all seen the lifted trucks that sag in the back with any kind of weight in the back, and here’s your sign.
Great just what i needed for my number 2 ritual :D
This help me with replacing the fuel pump in my friends truck. And love the half life 2 combine logo, I need to get me one haha.
Very good video, easy to follow. Thank you
I used a cutoff wheel to cut the head off the bolt which worked great except you want to make sure you have no gas leaks. lol
Yes! A new video to watch while i eat my asada tacos
some anti seize on all those leaf spring bolts is nice
I'd be concerned/cautious about overloading with the rear lift. Since your bump stops are no longer able to stop your springs from over extending.
At about the 11 minute and on mark, you can really tell in your voice you weren't having it. LMAO, the joys of saving money! Hahaha 😂. Thanks for the video bro!
Your sending unit looks like mine did last year when I had to replace it mine also snapped at the unit and had to replace 2 of the line ends
watching your video after my recent disaster. same exact issue, of course my local parts store salesman was as helpful as dead donkey, instead pointing out to me to get the Pig tail cut back nylon line use it, kept letting me buy crap that didn't help, yep mine didn't come out, had to remove the bed, with the addition of 4, 2 in hole to access bed bolts, Chevy engineers, i swear they design this crap just out of spite. found Dorman p/n 55157 Bolt kit to replace that abortion of corroded mess. same style but I will slather it antiseze before installing these tomorrow.
At 1:44 on the left next to the shocks. What is that coil or spring looking thing? Mine completely rusted off....my thought was when the bed gets to heavy it sits on that?
Good day from Ont. Canada Very interesting video. I have 2013 chev, 350, klms. I was wondering were you got your fuel pump from , that sounded very reasonable. I did sub. Thanks
I am glad I live here in Southern California where I don’t have to deal with that
They are called "ugga duggas". 3 ugga duggas is all them bolts needed.
And then we are do.. oh yeah the leaf springs.. :/
Had me rolling!😂
Bedline the chrome light bar black!
Hey man, where did you get the rollbar? I'm looking for a nice one for my stepside and that looks cool
All that work, time and money... still used the old shackles :D
Does it run? Enough said
Glad to see you were using osha approved flip flops. Been there done that multiple times myself lol
What kind of lubricant are you using to help push on and set your hosing?
i cant wait to watch the next video
I simply installed Helper Springs / overloads on mine.
In the future you may want to use something non ferrous to remove the lock ring on the gas tank.
what was that torque spec? NICENTITE
MI Truck Spring told me to replace the second leaf you must cut and drill it to size, that being said drill the load spring and install the wear pads. Mine just broke so I’m going to cheat for now and separate the leafs on the truck and repair them until summer
GM should make that stainless
"SHOULD" but they wont. because GM are aholes. why else would they design vehicles where you have to take half the vehicle apart to repair simple things with consumable (stuff that you know wears over time) parts.
well... you picked up that rusty wheel well closer to your eyes :)
When's will the new 1991 pontic firebird video going to come out.
Didn't think to use your sandblaster to clean the rust out of those hose connections?? That would have made it much easier to get the rusty pipes out of the hoses. We ALWAYS replace the lock ring, and the fuel pressure line in my shop when we do those. Its not really worth the time to remove the rusty metal out of the old pipe, and possibly causing a fuel leak. But it has been done....
Also...be careful using a vacuum around gas fumes!! Can suck fumes up and make the vacuum go BOOM! Or shoot flame out of the vacuum!
Good video av always!. Fluid film anyone?
Nice rake to the Chevy.
Did y’all have any annoying, squeaking with the old leaf set?
You need to hot oil it will slow down if not stop the rest make it a lot easier to work on.
I'm going to assume - no matter how wrong I may be - that you replaced the worm clamp on the fuel filler hose. But of course I'm right, of course. :)
Im glad i live in the South.
I brought truck to spring shop and they added a couple leafs
Spray silicone lube between the springs and bushings
shoud of added the new leaf sping to the old ones and could of got rid of that spacer. And would have a 3/4 tone leaf pack
wait a minute, that sticker on the tailgate! Thats A Half Life 2 Reference!
Hello Kid, David here NOT JOAN! Darn that thing! Anyway, I often heard the phrase "Gravity she's a bitch." But for the wrench turner is ALWAYS been Rust that's the real BITCH! I like Gravity! Anyway Great Video Kiddo! Keep em coming you'll warm an old mans heart!
The leaf springs are clapped out
Great video
How do you like those Westlake tires ?
What kinda impact sockets do you have? Ive been looking for some cheap ones for my dewalt impact. Your set looks pretty noice
Looks like a mix of snapon and Pittsburg
The problem with the sending unit and hoses is that you didn't use WD-40
You should have at least wire-brushed that sending unit locking ring.
i realize it is Rob's eyes, but i hope some day he doesn't find out the hard way safety glasses would have been a good idea...
It did affect the ride thought
the title of this video should be: "how to not use penetrants or any oils while fighting with rust."
only puts anti-seize on new hardware! 24:17. lol
Hey are you satisfied with your deWalt impact?
The big ("700 ft/lbs") 20v one used in this video is quite good, the only real complaints I have are that it is a little bit bulky and very heavy. Using it upside down, laying on the floor to install the lift on this truck and the leaf springs actually convinced me to get a smaller one for most uses. The newer, smaller ("300 ft/lbs") 20v is half the weight and half the power. Still enough to loosen the vast majority of things I come across and it's much more pleasant to use. Good to have the larger one when something wants to put up a fight though.
Awesome! thanks for the info. Love the videos man
I can only imagine how rusty your fuel filter is too.
good stuff
How those struts doing
I like that most of the photos of excessive loads are my shit, thanks bud ❤️
Would be wise to probably rig up a cheap electrolysis setup for small parts like this, itll at least bring it down to bare metal so you can coat it n re use it rather than faf online for fiddly parts.