Much appreciated! Yes I think on rocker style with adjustable ends (older Honda) its actually opposite: you set the valve lash towards the tighter end of the spec because the clearance will get bigger with time.
Now that I think about it. I had to adjust the valve clearance on my ninja 250 because they were too tight. Same issue, after about 2k-3k miles the valves tighten up from factory spec and then the bike can’t idle properly.
@@sushpants Yeah most common with my background being Subaru: cold start misfires as seen on freeze frame data are most common tight valves (valves are being held open). Goes away when engine come up to temp because the clearance increases.
I’m a big dummy when it comes to this, but trying to learn. I’m not picturing how the tolerance becomes tighter, but you did show the old ones with wear on them - that would make the gap larger, correct? So it would be over the larger end of the spec? Would that cause a valve train to be super loud, especially when cold? I’m going to do this adjustment on my Prizm GSi because it’s got 187k on it, but just wondering if it will quiet things down a bit. Love the video!
@@uteking Valve lash on these engines gets tighter over time because the heads of the valves themselves get "sucked" deeper into the cylinder head with more miles. Too big valve lash can cause valve train noise, especially when cold. It would be worth removing the valve cover and checking where your valve lash is at currently.
Could you give a better description of the tool you used. I could not understand you when you mentioned the manufacturers name and the part numbers. Also, where did you buy the shims at?
Great video! It helped me find what I needed, but I feel like I measured something wrong. After doing the math, the range of shims I need are between 0.9mm and a 5.1mm. I can't find shims online that are those sizes. Is it possible that my clearance is too messed up or do you think I just measured wrong?
@@CMAutohaus Right.. I very much appreciate the speedy answer. The part where I messed up was likely where the instructions required me to rotate the engine to measure the last half of the clearances. From TDC measuring the first set of clearances, what exactly is a full rotation? Do I rotate the engine from TDC clockwise back to TDC again? Also, yes I do have a 4age.
@@CMAutohaushello, I know many years has been since. But you have shims from 280, but you recommended here from 350. Is there any rule or something? Or you have to measure the clearance before ordering the shims? I would like to get an assorted Kit or something.
Hi , looking at the valve clearance spec I am a little confused , I thought the gap will be smaller when hot (expand) but the spec is the opposite. My ae86 makes a typewriter tapping noise when cold ( changes with rpm )and once it’s hot the noise will disappear. Could it be the gap is slightly too much when cold?
www.z1enterprises.com/engine-parts/shims/25mm-shims.html 25mm shims. I measured, then ordered what I needed. More cost effective than buying a shim kit (may have a bunch of shims you dont need)
Dam my Mr2 got a long way still debating on doing a valve seal job on it or just getting the head cut and slapping the old cams and shims on , seems like previous owner did some idk , what did you suggest
WD40 is not a lubricant- it is a water displacement 40th formula- use your engine oil or a slight smear of break-in lubricant Shims wear and clearances increase The Snap On Blue Point tool you show really makes replacement easier. You should have explained what you are using and why
Awesome video for someone rebuilding their first 4age!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
You the real MVP brother!! I'm going to be doing this here soon and this will def come in handy as a reference.
Awww yeah! Thanks for the support!
Thanks for the how-to video. My fix16 is clicking!!! I am using this video as a reference guide.
Glad to help!
I had no idea that the clearance will tighten over time. I liked your tip on the feeler gauge! Good video.
Much appreciated! Yes I think on rocker style with adjustable ends (older Honda) its actually opposite: you set the valve lash towards the tighter end of the spec because the clearance will get bigger with time.
Now that I think about it. I had to adjust the valve clearance on my ninja 250 because they were too tight. Same issue, after about 2k-3k miles the valves tighten up from factory spec and then the bike can’t idle properly.
@@sushpants Yeah most common with my background being Subaru: cold start misfires as seen on freeze frame data are most common tight valves (valves are being held open). Goes away when engine come up to temp because the clearance increases.
I’m a big dummy when it comes to this, but trying to learn. I’m not picturing how the tolerance becomes tighter, but you did show the old ones with wear on them - that would make the gap larger, correct? So it would be over the larger end of the spec? Would that cause a valve train to be super loud, especially when cold? I’m going to do this adjustment on my Prizm GSi because it’s got 187k on it, but just wondering if it will quiet things down a bit. Love the video!
@@uteking Valve lash on these engines gets tighter over time because the heads of the valves themselves get "sucked" deeper into the cylinder head with more miles. Too big valve lash can cause valve train noise, especially when cold. It would be worth removing the valve cover and checking where your valve lash is at currently.
Could you give a better description of the tool you used. I could not understand you when you mentioned the manufacturers name and the part numbers.
Also, where did you buy the shims at?
This is exactly what I needed! thanks so much bro
Glad to help. Enjoy Corolla!
Need to do this. Would you want to be on the bigger end of range adjustment or smaller tolerance end?
Actually asked this question before finishing the video lol you answered it at the end of the video!
wider end of the tolerance. This is because as the engine runs, the tolerance will get smaller
Will the straight feeler gauges effect the accuracy of measuring the exact clearance? I like the ones u use since they are L types. Thanks
You can bend straight feeler gauges into an L. Using a straight gauge into an angled spot has affected the "feel" for me.
@@CMAutohaus thanks!
Great video! It helped me find what I needed, but I feel like I measured something wrong. After doing the math, the range of shims I need are between 0.9mm and a 5.1mm. I can't find shims online that are those sizes. Is it possible that my clearance is too messed up or do you think I just measured wrong?
If this is on a 4age sounds like something is wrong.The shim sizes you need at probably between 350 - 390mm range.
@@CMAutohaus Right.. I very much appreciate the speedy answer. The part where I messed up was likely where the instructions required me to rotate the engine to measure the last half of the clearances. From TDC measuring the first set of clearances, what exactly is a full rotation? Do I rotate the engine from TDC clockwise back to TDC again? Also, yes I do have a 4age.
@@katocovers Yes. TDC clockwise back to TDC again
@@CMAutohaushello, I know many years has been since. But you have shims from 280, but you recommended here from 350. Is there any rule or something? Or you have to measure the clearance before ordering the shims? I would like to get an assorted Kit or something.
i thought we should aim for the thighter clearance since the valve shim will wear out and become thinner? or am i wrong
Hi , looking at the valve clearance spec I am a little confused , I thought the gap will be smaller when hot (expand) but the spec is the opposite.
My ae86 makes a typewriter tapping noise when cold ( changes with rpm )and once it’s hot the noise will disappear. Could it be the gap is slightly too much when cold?
Yes I would bet your valve lash is on the loose side if the tapping noise is from your valve train.
@@CMAutohaus thank you for your prompt response, keep up the good work cheers buddy!
Please assist me if don't have spare shims what should I do
Do the calculations and order extra sizes of shims. Make 4AGE friends who will give or sell you shims to try
Does this apply to the 4afe as well
If it is shim over bucket, then yes
Any chance you could link the shim kit you bought? Thanks for making this btw!!
www.z1enterprises.com/engine-parts/shims/25mm-shims.html
25mm shims. I measured, then ordered what I needed. More cost effective than buying a shim kit (may have a bunch of shims you dont need)
Dam my Mr2 got a long way still debating on doing a valve seal job on it or just getting the head cut and slapping the old cams and shims on , seems like previous owner did some idk , what did you suggest
At the age of these cars, it worth it for the piece of mind to pull the head and do the whole service.
Hello :) Does this process change/ or do the clearances have to get adjust differently with aftermarket cams?
Same process with aftermarket cams. Some very aggressive cams require shim under bucket or solid buckets
WD40 is not a lubricant- it is a water displacement 40th formula- use your engine oil or a slight smear of break-in lubricant
Shims wear and clearances increase
The Snap On Blue Point tool you show really makes replacement easier. You should have explained what you are using and why
Great points thank you! I may have to remake this video!
@@CMAutohaus Would love to see that!
thank you!
You're welcome!
Jgb .....
Thanks!