Thank you for not doing this at 2X speed and for not dubbing a stupid music track on to it. Just good quality video and simple explanations of what is being done!
Hey, this is your subscriber from across the pond =P Thanks for posting this! The engine in my AW11 is not the stock engine, and this will help me to determine what specific variant of the 4AGE it is when I get my car back out of the shop.
Glad you find it useful! The number of ribs are the first clue, the crankshaft journal size the definitive confirmation if you have a 3rib or a 7rib and hence the 40 or 42mm crankshaft journals. 3 rib = 40mm / 7rib=42mm Both set-ups are actually good. The 40mm crankshaft uses rods with 18mm pinholes vs 20mm pinholes on the rods of the 42mm crankshaft. there is a "big" weight difference between these rods. The 18mm rods are some 50 grams ligther per rod. might not sound like much, but when you take into account that it goes up and down thousands of times per minute that weight becomes important This is a good start for an NA build. Because the internals are lighter the engine revs faster. The 42mm crankshaft is a bit heavier and has beefier rods, but it gets more aftermarket support. it can also spin to higher revs, even beyond 8.500 rpm with the right mods of course. Also good for a turbo build.
Watching the process of breaking everything down is really helping me understand and visualize how it is all needing to be done. Recently I acquired a Red Top 4A-GE and I bought it seeing that the current motor in my AE86 is a hybrid of a Blue Top 4A-GE head and a 4AC block. I wanted to have a uniform motor and now that I'll need to rebuild the Red Top I bought (since I don't know its operational condition) it's great to see all this going on.
Jeffrey Darwin Glad the vid was useful. Congrats on the purchase and good luck with it. Check out club4ag forums and my other vids, there's a lot of useful stuff on the 4ag there.
driving 4 answers oh I've already began watching your other videos and they're great! Sad to say I've tried joining Club 4AG but whoever the administrators are they have yet to approve my registration and it's been 3 months now.
driving 4 answers thank you man I very much appreciate the advice! Watching your videos is giving me a bit of confidence to change the valve stem seals on my 4age/4AC. The 4th cylinder is creating smoke and it's the valve stem seal that's causing it. I've never parted a motor so I've been hesitant to dive in, some say remove the head from the rest of the motor and others say it's possible with the motor still being in the car.
Just FYI Toyota lists an STT for removing the oil pan which is quite expensive but you can order an oil pan seal cutter on Amazon for about 14$ and it's basically the same tool as Toyota uses. It's got a somewhat sharp lip on it and you hammer it in between the block and the pan and then it has a lever that fits in and you pry open the pan. I got one and it makes opening the pan super easy. I just had to wedge it in, in 3 places along the pan and the pan popped right off.
Good job Well Done, hey I love those wooden jack stands, very artistic. So why do you use those, I guess soft wood is better for your frame than hard metal but it seems a bit of trouble to build as you go up. Anyway its cool.
Thank you. I used the wooden jack stands because I couldn't get the rear of the car high enough to drop the engine using any of the conventional jack stands available (Toyota mr2 is mid engined, engine is removed by dropping it instead of hoisting it up) and post lifts cost a lot of money :) The wooden stuff is honestly super solid and safer than jack stands by a good margin. The drawback is a as you pointed out that they do take a bit of time to stack up and lifting the car up like this on a daily basis would definitely be a major pain.
Is it for an aw11? If it is try Neil Jones in the uk, I got a lot of stuff from him. Top notch used parts at fair prices. Just google mr2 mk1 spares. If it's for another Toyota, try the club4ag forum classifieds.
answers the 1.6 engine I have is a 4ag and the car is a 1983 Toyota Corolla Wagon . I'm trying to add power steering and I'm in need of that bracket...
That's the alternator bracket, if we're thinking about the same thing. You can definitely get that from Neil Jones. Just google mr2 mk1 spares and his site should pop up.
+Evan 86 Levin Thanks a lot. Glad you like the vid. This is actually old content, and I have some nicer newer stuff on my channel. I can't link to the book here unfortunately, but if you Google it you will see plenty of results. If you can't find it, shoot me an email. Of course it's ok to put mt channel as featured, thanks.
Yeah, that 7rib-3rib thing is not 100% true all the time. In fact, European AW11s (non catalytic converter) Bluetop 4A-GEs have 7 rib blocks with high comp pistons (10:1) instead of the 9.4:1s as used in other markets where the engine is designed to run a Catalytic converter (like usa or canada) and also as used in the AE86. They also have 40mm crank journals with 18mm pin holes. So it seems for some markets there were sold some kind of hybrid engines between the 3rib and 7rib. There is also a mixture of flywheels for this European bluetop 7ribs where you can find ones with 200mm flywheel+clutch and others with the upgraded 212mm set from the late 1986 models. On the other hand i wanted to ask you if its possible to read the conrod inscription to know what bearing is needed WITHOUT taking out the pistons+conrods? i mean, could it be done from under the car with the engine completely mounted and just taking out the oil pan and conrod bearing caps? Thanks in advance
Lol. This is just old junk I wear around the garage when its winter :) This is a really old and bad video. Check out my engine assembly video I published last, it's a lot better than this.
+driving 4 answers (mr2 mk1 hero) I'm subbed so I'll take a look. I have a BigPort and a SilverTop myself. So any videos cracking these open helps lol.
Thank you for not doing this at 2X speed and for not dubbing a stupid music track on to it. Just good quality video and simple explanations of what is being done!
Thanks for posting this. My first time tearing down an engine, this helped me a lot!
Excellent tutorial! About to take apart the 4A-GE in one of my MR2s too!
Hey, this is your subscriber from across the pond =P
Thanks for posting this! The engine in my AW11 is not the stock engine, and this will help me to determine what specific variant of the 4AGE it is when I get my car back out of the shop.
Glad you find it useful!
The number of ribs are the first clue, the crankshaft journal size the definitive confirmation if you have a 3rib or a 7rib and hence the 40 or 42mm crankshaft journals. 3 rib = 40mm / 7rib=42mm
Both set-ups are actually good. The 40mm crankshaft uses rods with 18mm pinholes vs 20mm pinholes on the rods of the 42mm crankshaft. there is a "big" weight difference between these rods. The 18mm rods are some 50 grams ligther per rod. might not sound like much, but when you take into account that it goes up and down thousands of times per minute that weight becomes important This is a good start for an NA build. Because the internals are lighter the engine revs faster.
The 42mm crankshaft is a bit heavier and has beefier rods, but it gets more aftermarket support. it can also spin to higher revs, even beyond 8.500 rpm with the right mods of course. Also good for a turbo build.
Watching the process of breaking everything down is really helping me understand and visualize how it is all needing to be done. Recently I acquired a Red Top 4A-GE and I bought it seeing that the current motor in my AE86 is a hybrid of a Blue Top 4A-GE head and a 4AC block. I wanted to have a uniform motor and now that I'll need to rebuild the Red Top I bought (since I don't know its operational condition) it's great to see all this going on.
Jeffrey Darwin Glad the vid was useful. Congrats on the purchase and good luck with it. Check out club4ag forums and my other vids, there's a lot of useful stuff on the 4ag there.
driving 4 answers oh I've already began watching your other videos and they're great!
Sad to say I've tried joining Club 4AG but whoever the administrators are they have yet to approve my registration and it's been 3 months now.
Jeffrey Darwin Same thing happened to me, send them an email they'll approve you right away.
driving 4 answers thank you man I very much appreciate the advice!
Watching your videos is giving me a bit of confidence to change the valve stem seals on my 4age/4AC. The 4th cylinder is creating smoke and it's the valve stem seal that's causing it. I've never parted a motor so I've been hesitant to dive in, some say remove the head from the rest of the motor and others say it's possible with the motor still being in the car.
Just FYI Toyota lists an STT for removing the oil pan which is quite expensive but you can order an oil pan seal cutter on Amazon for about 14$ and it's basically the same tool as Toyota uses. It's got a somewhat sharp lip on it and you hammer it in between the block and the pan and then it has a lever that fits in and you pry open the pan. I got one and it makes opening the pan super easy. I just had to wedge it in, in 3 places along the pan and the pan popped right off.
Thanks! I'll have to have a look for one of those!
This was a great video man thx 🙏🏽!
Good job Well Done, hey I love those wooden jack stands, very artistic. So why do you use those, I guess soft wood is better for your frame than hard metal but it seems a bit of trouble to build as you go up. Anyway its cool.
Thank you. I used the wooden jack stands because I couldn't get the rear of the car high enough to drop the engine using any of the conventional jack stands available (Toyota mr2 is mid engined, engine is removed by dropping it instead of hoisting it up) and post lifts cost a lot of money :) The wooden stuff is honestly super solid and safer than jack stands by a good margin. The drawback is a as you pointed out that they do take a bit of time to stack up and lifting the car up like this on a daily basis would definitely be a major pain.
I need the engine bracket thats on the right side of your block .
Do have any idea where I can pick one up ?
Thanks for the videos ...
Is it for an aw11? If it is try Neil Jones in the uk, I got a lot of stuff from him. Top notch used parts at fair prices. Just google mr2 mk1 spares. If it's for another Toyota, try the club4ag forum classifieds.
answers the 1.6 engine I have is a 4ag and the car is a 1983 Toyota Corolla Wagon .
I'm trying to add power steering and I'm in need of that bracket...
That's the alternator bracket, if we're thinking about the same thing. You can definitely get that from Neil Jones. Just google mr2 mk1 spares and his site should pop up.
answers thank you .
Awesome vid. Got a link to that big green book? Also mind if I put you as a featured channel on my sidebar? Thanks.
+Evan 86 Levin Thanks a lot. Glad you like the vid. This is actually old content, and I have some nicer newer stuff on my channel. I can't link to the book here unfortunately, but if you Google it you will see plenty of results. If you can't find it, shoot me an email. Of course it's ok to put mt channel as featured, thanks.
You can get these guides in a PDF format for free online. Google it and you'll find what you need.
Helpful video. Nice and thorough.
Thanks mate!
Yeah, that 7rib-3rib thing is not 100% true all the time. In fact, European AW11s (non catalytic converter) Bluetop 4A-GEs have 7 rib blocks with high comp pistons (10:1) instead of the 9.4:1s as used in other markets where the engine is designed to run a Catalytic converter (like usa or canada) and also as used in the AE86. They also have 40mm crank journals with 18mm pin holes. So it seems for some markets there were sold some kind of hybrid engines between the 3rib and 7rib. There is also a mixture of flywheels for this European bluetop 7ribs where you can find ones with 200mm flywheel+clutch and others with the upgraded 212mm set from the late 1986 models.
On the other hand i wanted to ask you if its possible to read the conrod inscription to know what bearing is needed WITHOUT taking out the pistons+conrods? i mean, could it be done from under the car with the engine completely mounted and just taking out the oil pan and conrod bearing caps?
Thanks in advance
Hi just curious want to know the plate which is cover the cranshaft, what will happen we don't put it back while re-install back the oil sump?
Bad things will eventually happen. That's the baffle. Put it back in there.
Could you do a video on the 4agze engines?
Sure, if you can get me a 4agze engine. But the block is pretty much the same, it's a 4A
I want that engine for me ke 70 1982
great channel BTW
Thank you!
GUESS I GOTTA STUDY! MY ENGINE BOTTOMED OUT!
I did this today on my mkII supra '83
My i know the location of crankshaft sensor
There is none
I'm curious are you Russian, thanks for the video BTW.
Np. Nope not Russian. I'm curious what made you think I was?
+driving 4 answers (mr2 mk1 hero)
The clothing lol.
Lol. This is just old junk I wear around the garage when its winter :) This is a really old and bad video. Check out my engine assembly video I published last, it's a lot better than this.
+driving 4 answers (mr2 mk1 hero)
I'm subbed so I'll take a look.
I have a BigPort and a SilverTop myself. So any videos cracking these open helps lol.
Thanks for subscribing. Glad the videos are useful :)