This video is fantastic. Thank you so much! I fixed my wife's sewing machine, a viking 150e watching this. The seized stitch size wheel because of the stuck/siezed piece of aluminum. Some PB blaster did the trick! Thanks so much!
Hey, thanks a bunch for making these videos. We just picked up an Optima 180 at an op shop, and being able to understand how the machine works and to be able to diagnose future problems is a great help to us! Good job
Hi, thanks for the info. We had a classic 100 with exact the same problem. Your information was of great help. We were able to fix the problem . Again, many thanks for the effort you took, its the only TH-cam movie we could find. With regards, Rob and Ellen
Thank you so much for publishing such a helpful video! It made me understand how my ancient machine works and thanks to you I managed to solve the adjustment problem with that leaver for the stitch length! :) It's so valuable to have the skill to repair things in our age where things that are not perfect anymore are so easily replaced with something new and cheap! The planet will be greatful!!! ;D
my stitch length is jammed and I can't seem to fix it - I have the 120 - originally it was stuck on tiny stitches and I attempted to "fix it" and now it's jammed on the big stitches and I'm afraid to break it, sigh - what did you do?
Ahhhh!! I love the ease with which you can open the whole back end for inspection, cleaning, and lubing. What a joy! I have a model 6030 and it is a beast to open up in different sections, very frustrating not to see and access the entire mechanism. This is key to mechanical machines which need frequent maintenance. I wish all machines were designed to be serviced with ease. My questions are: 1. What was the date of manufacture for the Optima 180? 2. Do you consider it a superior machine from the 6000 series? 3. How do I oil and clean the internals of a 6030 model? I have already opened every panel on top and cleaned it, lubed it with Triflow Silicone oil, and fixed the needle bobbin timing perfectly myself. I wonder if I should open up the large screws at the bottom (not the motor housing but holding the base to the top case. Does anything need oiling up down there? So curious. My machine works but is a bit sticky on stitching, needs some coaxing. Not flying on stitches, but plodding through them. Please advise!!! I cannot afford a $400 technician bill.
I have Husqvarna Optima 120 that worked fine for decades. Then it started to produce static noise as the foot pedal was slightly depressed. After about halfway down, the machine suddenly went braaaap and did sew but very fast, so the finer work had to be done by hand. Also, later we discovered that the cable was damaged, all four wires almost completely broken right near the socket part (that goes in the machine). I had to disassemble it (thank you for your video) but didn't find anything in particular. Also I think that the static noise and inability to sew slowly with the pedal pressed about 10% of the way, might have been the function of the fact that the electricity wasn't getting well due to broken wires. Still, I find it somewhat hard to rotate the shaft by hand, I imagine it should be taking lots of wattage like that. Maybe I need to oil some parts of the shaft?
Clean first, then oil. See my comments above. Check pedal for loose wires -mine was missing a screw to hold down a contact. I replaced the screw and fixed it.
Usually these machines has a capacitor where the electricity goes in, to act as a radio interference suppressor. After some years, decades, these capacitors will go bad. That will make the machine run fast on its own, and there will be a smell of burning. If this is the case just locate the capacitor and either replace or remove it. Very common fault. But it can be scary when the machine starts running by its own. Also a good reason for why you should always unplug the machine when you don't use it.
I recently acquired a Classica 100, it appears to be of the same vintage as this. The needle likes to pull to one side. Any idea what I should be looking for in it? Thanks.
David, Plymouth, UK - Great Video, followed the steps and have successfully rescued my recently acquired 190 and it all seems to work very well, until I get to winding the bobbin. It will run for 3 second bursts only, each new burst needing a pedal push. Yet with no bobbin on it runs quite happily. Any suggestions to finalise the rescue and get it running 100%. Thanks very much.
how do I lubricate the mechanism that reverses the stitch from forwards to backwards? Husqvarna Classica 100. hasn't been used in several years. the button sticks. I can see with the back cover off that the mechanism is moving but gets stuck.
Excellent video guys do u think is possible to provide the part number from AC power supply cable and the pedal too I live on USA and don't know where can I get it thanks 👍
Thanks for this helpful video! Can you please tell us how you make the aluminum part which sticks to the shaft lose again? I tried heating it gently with the hairdryer, and applied a small amount of wd40. This helps a bit but not completely. I prefer not to dismantle the complete mechanism. My optima 190 isn't used for a while and doesn't go in reverse and the length adjustment doesn't response. It seems to be exactly the problem you showed in the video.
You want to avoid dismantling any of the inner parts unless your a certified repair tech...these machines don't have the common issue of broken cam blocks or belt wear, so it's almost always that the oil has frozen up inside causing the pieces to stop moving independently like they should. I have the Optima 630 (came after these machines but before the computerized #1). I had similar issues to yours: Reverse sewing wouldn't work/button had no tension behind it when pushed & the length knob wouldn't allow me to slide over the the green dot/select lower decorative stitches below. These are some things that helped me fix mine: 1) Most importantly- Purchase some "Tri-Flo" oil you can find it Amazon! Its important to use a high-quality teflon lube that will break down the old oil (that's turned into glue) & keep the shaft and plates oiled for future use or it will just freeze back up every time it cools down from the blow dryer. WD-40 will break up the old gunky oil but it won't lube the shafts, Triflo is a sewing machine oil used by the certified repair techs. 2) Use your hair dryer to heat up the metal plates & shaft until the top of the case is uncomfortably hot. Try to avoid too much heat at the plastic pieces... but don't worry too much, these models have a plastic that's more resistant to high heat than the newer models. Getting the old oil heated up so it can break down and allow those pieces to start moving is the only way it will get fixed (unless you pay to have it taken apart). 3) Once it's sufficiently hot start putting drops of oil on the shaft and in between the plate holes, continually working the knobs on the front back and forth moving the shaft. If both of the plates on yours are frozen together then use something like a flathead screw driver to try and move the silver plate (under the black one) until each of them move independently from each other with little resistence...take your time and continue heating and applying oil until the knob infant of the the plates moves smoothly along with them. It's also helpful to wipe the old oil off the cam shaft & other areas, replacing it w/ TriFlow to help it run better overall. It took me a few hours to get everything running smoothly but its purred smooth as a kitten ever since. Hope that helps!
@@Snail_Nailz now I have a new problem. Any idea how to get the stitch type selector to work again? The bottom lever piece is in place just fine on the shaft but the rocker arm doesn't set back down on the shaft. It's permanently lifted away. I'm trying to oil it but not sure what else might help. Thanks in advance!
Erin Battle I’d read something about that- I believe its either due to the oil gunk OR there’s a spring or screw that controls that arm which may need adjusting....are you able to see what controls the arm?
Hi Peoplesx, thank you for posting! I also have an old Husqvarna Optima 180. It was working fine until recently where the needle has stopped moving up and down. What could this be? The belt? Also how do you open to look inside? I removed the screw and tried to pull the back panel up (as instructed) and off but it's proving very difficult - any tips. Many thanks!
Hi Danielle, you need to remove the screw, pull the cover on the upper edge a little bit in your direction (you can use your fingernails oder a little scraper or something like that) until you see a little gap AND THEN move the whole cover upwards, as seen in the video. If you've done it once, its super easy ;)
Hello, I'm looking for the way to open the sewing foot ro replace the electricity wire of my optima 610. I can not find it on the internet. Can you maybe help me? Thank you in advance.
Thank you so much for publishing such a helpful video! I would like to ask one thing. I would be very grateful if you could help me. The item in the first video doesn't work for me for some reason. I can't drag it to the green part. It stops at 0. We looked inside and there is an aluminum part that wobbles when tightened with a screwdriver. What moves with you in the video when you drag the mm size. It doesn't work together for me. What could this be? Thank you if you can help.
Might be. The Aluminium Part often seizes onto the stainless steel axle and is not able to pivot anymore. Try to warm it up a little bit with a hair dryer and maybe use a little bit of thin lubrication oil (WD40 will work).
I was surprised that there was a video about an old machine like this. My wife’s old Husqvarna Claire has the same chassi and all and the aluminium thing is not moving but with force. How did you fix that? I am afraid to dismantle the machine more than popping the plastic lids. Thank you for a great video.
CHASSIS, not CHASSI. Read my comment about cleaning out all the parts. And lubing. Don't dismantle the machine. Just open up the case and clean whatever you see, including the backs of dials and handwheel shafts. That is all there is. Still stuck? Clean some more, get rid of the old gummy oil, that is all it is. Nothing more to it.
Reverse dial is gummed up with old oil. You must clean it out from inside with alcohol and toothbrush and hair dryer. Then lube with Triflow silicone oil. Common problem.
My 190 machine has the same issue with not being able to move the stitch length to the green side. once I am able to disassemble that area is it only a question of cleaning? I’m assuming that the aluminum part on my machine is also seized to the shaft.
All the seizing is just gummy old oil. Heat with hairdryer, scrub with alcohol and mineral spirits or WD-40, wipe dry, repeat ad nauseum. When all cleaned up, lube with Triflow silicone oil. All dials and parts should move perfectly now. Nothing to it. Anyone can do this. I have and my machine is good as new.
@peoplesx now I have a new problem. Any idea how to get the stitch type selector to work again? The bottom lever piece is in place just fine on the shaft but the rocker arm doesn't set back down on the shaft. It's permanently lifted away. I'm trying to oil it but not sure what else might help. Thanks in advance!
As a first measure, I would try to heat it up gently with a common hair dryer. Just be careful, the can become really hot as well. Maybe a spring gone? To do remote trouble shooting is always a little bit difficult.
I have an Optima 630, and can't figure out how to get the casing off. I have unscrewed the two screws, one under the handle and one just above it. It just won't budge and I don't want to force it!
I have this machine as well & have had to repair it a few times. *To take the back off; ONLY REMOVE THE SCREW BEHIND THE HANDLE (viewed from the back). The one you can see from above the machine controls the button hole lengths & reverse button hook function so you want to leave that alone. I made this mistake the first time too and it took me awhile to figure out that I couldn't get the reverse button working because I'd loosened that screw too much. If you removed that screw already you'll need to put it back in & play around to figure out the ideal setting. The manual says to only turn that screw "1/10th of a turn at a time to adjust the button hole column lengths": -"if the right side is tighter than the left column then loosen it -"If the left side is tighter then tighten the screw" ...but the main thing is that it won't reverse stitch when sewing until that screw's in the right position. Once the screw from behind the handle is removed, pull the back out VERY slightly until you see it separating from the top casing (I use a flathead screwdriver to push the part furthest from the needle out from under the top). Then VERY carefully pull upward until the back comes off....there are round metal pieces throughout the back area that the case slides onto when in place and you want to avoid breaking those so it goes back on right....take your time and just keep working it until you can pull it up and off.
Hello, my mother gave me her old machine Husqvarna Optima 190 selectronic but I have 2 problems : - it works in reverse - it works only with short stitch length I saw that the aluminium part don't move... It seems to be bloked. Do you know what I can do...I already spent a long time without success... despite yours excellent videos. Many thanks.
I have the exact same thing! Mine only works with short stitch length, doesn't reverse and I can't move the stitch length chooser past the green dot. It is also the aluminium part that doesn't move. I did find a written explaination of how to get it loose (in these comments) so I'm gonna try that
I'm now placing my hairdryer on the aluminium part and after a while I can move the aluminium part. It doesn't move by itself yet, but I can move it. I think if I will also add some oil, it will work again!
@@kovacsbarbara6363 no problem! I unfortunately don't remember what did the trick... I just did everything people in the comments here suggested and then it started working again! I hope you manage to get yours working again as well
Hello, thank you for this video, I tried to repair my Optima 150 which is quite similar, only thing is I'm block with the reverse feed mode, any idea how to solve this ? (maybe the aluminium block ?)
hello , I have too an Optima 150 that didn't work in the reverse feed mode , called a technician that in a few minutes succeeded to break down all the functions; please help me by sending me a photo of the internal part of the machine . many thanks sergiupetreanu@yahoo.com
Hello! I love your videos. I wish I saw these before attempting trying to fix mine. Do you know of a resource online to find diagrams and a part list of the stitch length mechanism?
Hi Olivia, I'm sorry, I don't have any further infos to those old Huskys. I just bought mine with the defect stitch length mechanism and I wasn't able to find anything either. But I made some pics of the mechanism the time I disassambled it. Leave me a message : go to my channel - about - send message
Great videos for the mechanical part! However, I'm looking for info about the electrical circuit. Actually for a Optima 190, but I guess they must be quite similar - they are on the mechanical side. My girlfriend has one of these, that blew the smoothing capacitor ten months ago - I successfully replaced that, but now it has done it again:-( And as far I can see a resistor (below the cooling plate of the 'triode' - probably not the correct term) has been burned as well - to a degree, that I can't see the colour of the rings indicating the value. Does someone have the diagram? Or some good pictures, allowing me to figure out the value? I kind of suspect the diode as well. All these are cheap components, easily replaced - and she really likes this faithfull, old machine:-) TIA Mich
Hi Mich, unfortunately I don't have any Wire Diagram Manuals. But if it's "only" the smoothing cap, then I would go for a complete new set, but those caps need to be bipolar and of the correct "grade" (HF-Suppresion-Caps with low internal resistance and high voltage). The inducted voltage near the motor-brushes can go fairly high, way more then 230/115V.
Thanx for the reply. My girlfriend went to the very brillant and very old school (i.e. helpfull and having the spirit of 'rather repair than replace') shop for sewing machines (Guldager og sønner, Århus, Denmark). Their hardware specialist was very convinced, that it probaly not was the same but rather the other of the same type, that was blown - and of course he was right (stupid me, not getting this right). I have now replaced it (and also the third, smaller, one), which I, of course, should have done in January - I actually HAD bought all three of them in the first place) - as capacitors of the same age are likely to blow at the same time. The resistor most likely was discoloured by the first capacitor blowing up.
This video is fantastic. Thank you so much! I fixed my wife's sewing machine, a viking 150e watching this. The seized stitch size wheel because of the stuck/siezed piece of aluminum. Some PB blaster did the trick! Thanks so much!
Hey, thanks a bunch for making these videos. We just picked up an Optima 180 at an op shop, and being able to understand how the machine works and to be able to diagnose future problems is a great help to us! Good job
Hi, thanks for the info. We had a classic 100 with exact the same problem. Your information was of great help. We were able to fix the problem . Again, many thanks for the effort you took, its the only TH-cam movie we could find. With regards, Rob and Ellen
Thank you so much for publishing such a helpful video! It made me understand how my ancient machine works and thanks to you I managed to solve the adjustment problem with that leaver for the stitch length! :)
It's so valuable to have the skill to repair things in our age where things that are not perfect anymore are so easily replaced with something new and cheap! The planet will be greatful!!! ;D
my stitch length is jammed and I can't seem to fix it - I have the 120 - originally it was stuck on tiny stitches and I attempted to "fix it" and now it's jammed on the big stitches and I'm afraid to break it, sigh - what did you do?
Amazing video, helped alot to adjust my 190. Cheers
Great video! Helped me to fix the family Husqvarna Classica 90 stuck in reverse :-).
Thanks from France !
My machine works in reverse now !
Ahhhh!! I love the ease with which you can open the whole back end for inspection, cleaning, and lubing. What a joy! I have a model 6030 and it is a beast to open up in different sections, very frustrating not to see and access the entire mechanism. This is key to mechanical machines which need frequent maintenance. I wish all machines were designed to be serviced with ease.
My questions are:
1. What was the date of manufacture for the Optima 180?
2. Do you consider it a superior machine from the 6000 series?
3. How do I oil and clean the internals of a 6030 model?
I have already opened every panel on top and cleaned it, lubed it with Triflow Silicone oil, and fixed the needle bobbin timing perfectly myself. I wonder if I should open up the large screws at the bottom (not the motor housing but holding the base to the top case. Does anything need oiling up down there? So curious. My machine works but is a bit sticky on stitching, needs some coaxing. Not flying on stitches, but plodding through them. Please advise!!! I cannot afford a $400 technician bill.
I have Husqvarna Optima 120 that worked fine for decades. Then it started to produce static noise as the foot pedal was slightly depressed. After about halfway down, the machine suddenly went braaaap and did sew but very fast, so the finer work had to be done by hand.
Also, later we discovered that the cable was damaged, all four wires almost completely broken right near the socket part (that goes in the machine).
I had to disassemble it (thank you for your video) but didn't find anything in particular. Also I think that the static noise and inability to sew slowly with the pedal pressed about 10% of the way, might have been the function of the fact that the electricity wasn't getting well due to broken wires. Still, I find it somewhat hard to rotate the shaft by hand, I imagine it should be taking lots of wattage like that. Maybe I need to oil some parts of the shaft?
Clean first, then oil. See my comments above. Check pedal for loose wires -mine was missing a screw to hold down a contact. I replaced the screw and fixed it.
Usually these machines has a capacitor where the electricity goes in, to act as a radio interference suppressor. After some years, decades, these capacitors will go bad. That will make the machine run fast on its own, and there will be a smell of burning.
If this is the case just locate the capacitor and either replace or remove it.
Very common fault. But it can be scary when the machine starts running by its own.
Also a good reason for why you should always unplug the machine when you don't use it.
I recently acquired a Classica 100, it appears to be of the same vintage as this. The needle likes to pull to one side. Any idea what I should be looking for in it? Thanks.
David, Plymouth, UK - Great Video, followed the steps and have successfully rescued my recently acquired 190 and it all seems to work very well, until I get to winding the bobbin. It will run for 3 second bursts only, each new burst needing a pedal push. Yet with no bobbin on it runs quite happily. Any suggestions to finalise the rescue and get it running 100%. Thanks very much.
Did you ever figure out how to fix this? My 180 is having the same problem!
Bedankt, heb veel aan uw filmpje
how do I lubricate the mechanism that reverses the stitch from forwards to backwards? Husqvarna Classica 100. hasn't been used in several years. the button sticks. I can see with the back cover off that the mechanism is moving but gets stuck.
Excellent video guys do u think is possible to provide the part number from AC power supply cable and the pedal too I live on USA and don't know where can I get it thanks 👍
Could you please tell me how to repair the bobbin winder please?
Thanks for this helpful video!
Can you please tell us how you make the aluminum part which sticks to the shaft lose again? I tried heating it gently with the hairdryer, and applied a small amount of wd40. This helps a bit but not completely. I prefer not to dismantle the complete mechanism.
My optima 190 isn't used for a while and doesn't go in reverse and the length adjustment doesn't response. It seems to be exactly the problem you showed in the video.
You want to avoid dismantling any of the inner parts unless your a certified repair tech...these machines don't have the common issue of broken cam blocks or belt wear, so it's almost always that the oil has frozen up inside causing the pieces to stop moving independently like they should. I have the Optima 630 (came after these machines but before the computerized #1).
I had similar issues to yours: Reverse sewing wouldn't work/button had no tension behind it when pushed & the length knob wouldn't allow me to slide over the the green dot/select lower decorative stitches below. These are some things that helped me fix mine:
1) Most importantly- Purchase some "Tri-Flo" oil you can find it Amazon! Its important to use a high-quality teflon lube that will break down the old oil (that's turned into glue) & keep the shaft and plates oiled for future use or it will just freeze back up every time it cools down from the blow dryer. WD-40 will break up the old gunky oil but it won't lube the shafts, Triflo is a sewing machine oil used by the certified repair techs.
2) Use your hair dryer to heat up the metal plates & shaft until the top of the case is uncomfortably hot. Try to avoid too much heat at the plastic pieces... but don't worry too much, these models have a plastic that's more resistant to high heat than the newer models. Getting the old oil heated up so it can break down and allow those pieces to start moving is the only way it will get fixed (unless you pay to have it taken apart).
3) Once it's sufficiently hot start putting drops of oil on the shaft and in between the plate holes, continually working the knobs on the front back and forth moving the shaft. If both of the plates on yours are frozen together then use something like a flathead screw driver to try and move the silver plate (under the black one) until each of them move independently from each other with little resistence...take your time and continue heating and applying oil until the knob infant of the the plates moves smoothly along with them.
It's also helpful to wipe the old oil off the cam shaft & other areas, replacing it w/ TriFlow to help it run better overall. It took me a few hours to get everything running smoothly but its purred smooth as a kitten ever since. Hope that helps!
@@Snail_Nailz your directions here worked for me 100%. Thank you so much!!! So helpful! I'm back in business :-)
Erin Battle yay! I’m so glad u were able to save ur machine :)
@@Snail_Nailz now I have a new problem. Any idea how to get the stitch type selector to work again? The bottom lever piece is in place just fine on the shaft but the rocker arm doesn't set back down on the shaft. It's permanently lifted away. I'm trying to oil it but not sure what else might help. Thanks in advance!
Erin Battle I’d read something about that- I believe its either due to the oil gunk OR there’s a spring or screw that controls that arm which may need adjusting....are you able to see what controls the arm?
Hi Peoplesx, thank you for posting! I also have an old Husqvarna Optima 180. It was working fine until recently where the needle has stopped moving up and down. What could this be? The belt? Also how do you open to look inside? I removed the screw and tried to pull the back panel up (as instructed) and off but it's proving very difficult - any tips. Many thanks!
Hi Danielle, you need to remove the screw, pull the cover on the upper edge a little bit in your direction (you can use your fingernails oder a little scraper or something like that) until you see a little gap AND THEN move the whole cover upwards, as seen in the video.
If you've done it once, its super easy ;)
Hello, I'm looking for the way to open the sewing foot ro replace the electricity wire of my optima 610. I can not find it on the internet. Can you maybe help me?
Thank you in advance.
Thank you so much for publishing such a helpful video! I would like to ask one thing. I would be very grateful if you could help me. The item in the first video doesn't work for me for some reason. I can't drag it to the green part. It stops at 0. We looked inside and there is an aluminum part that wobbles when tightened with a screwdriver. What moves with you in the video when you drag the mm size. It doesn't work together for me. What could this be? Thank you if you can help.
Might be. The Aluminium Part often seizes onto the stainless steel axle and is not able to pivot anymore. Try to warm it up a little bit with a hair dryer and maybe use a little bit of thin lubrication oil (WD40 will work).
I was surprised that there was a video about an old machine like this. My wife’s old Husqvarna Claire has the same chassi and all and the aluminium thing is not moving but with force. How did you fix that? I am afraid to dismantle the machine more than popping the plastic lids. Thank you for a great video.
CHASSIS, not CHASSI.
Read my comment about cleaning out all the parts. And lubing. Don't dismantle the machine. Just open up the case and clean whatever you see, including the backs of dials and handwheel shafts. That is all there is. Still stuck? Clean some more, get rid of the old gummy oil, that is all it is. Nothing more to it.
What's the production year?
hej would you know what could happen when the reverse go got stuck ... and the machine does not go forward only only do work backward ?
Reverse dial is gummed up with old oil. You must clean it out from inside with alcohol and toothbrush and hair dryer. Then lube with Triflow silicone oil. Common problem.
My 190 machine has the same issue with not being able to move the stitch length to the green side. once I am able to disassemble that area is it only a question of cleaning? I’m assuming that the aluminum part on my machine is also seized to the shaft.
All the seizing is just gummy old oil. Heat with hairdryer, scrub with alcohol and mineral spirits or WD-40, wipe dry, repeat ad nauseum. When all cleaned up, lube with Triflow silicone oil. All dials and parts should move perfectly now. Nothing to it. Anyone can do this. I have and my machine is good as new.
@peoplesx now I have a new problem. Any idea how to get the stitch type selector to work again? The bottom lever piece is in place just fine on the shaft but the rocker arm doesn't set back down on the shaft. It's permanently lifted away. I'm trying to oil it but not sure what else might help. Thanks in advance!
As a first measure, I would try to heat it up gently with a common hair dryer. Just be careful, the can become really hot as well. Maybe a spring gone? To do remote trouble shooting is always a little bit difficult.
I have an Optima 630, and can't figure out how to get the casing off. I have unscrewed the two screws, one under the handle and one just above it. It just won't budge and I don't want to force it!
I have this machine as well & have had to repair it a few times.
*To take the back off; ONLY REMOVE THE SCREW BEHIND THE HANDLE (viewed from the back). The one you can see from above the machine controls the button hole lengths & reverse button hook function so you want to leave that alone. I made this mistake the first time too and it took me awhile to figure out that I couldn't get the reverse button working because I'd loosened that screw too much.
If you removed that screw already you'll need to put it back in & play around to figure out the ideal setting. The manual says to only turn that screw "1/10th of a turn at a time to adjust the button hole column lengths":
-"if the right side is tighter than the left column then loosen it
-"If the left side is tighter then tighten the screw"
...but the main thing is that it won't reverse stitch when sewing until that screw's in the right position.
Once the screw from behind the handle is removed, pull the back out VERY slightly until you see it separating from the top casing (I use a flathead screwdriver to push the part furthest from the needle out from under the top). Then VERY carefully pull upward until the back comes off....there are round metal pieces throughout the back area that the case slides onto when in place and you want to avoid breaking those so it goes back on right....take your time and just keep working it until you can pull it up and off.
Hello, my mother gave me her old machine Husqvarna Optima 190 selectronic but I have 2 problems :
- it works in reverse
- it works only with short stitch length
I saw that the aluminium part don't move... It seems to be bloked.
Do you know what I can do...I already spent a long time without success... despite yours excellent videos. Many thanks.
I have the exact same thing!
Mine only works with short stitch length, doesn't reverse and I can't move the stitch length chooser past the green dot. It is also the aluminium part that doesn't move. I did find a written explaination of how to get it loose (in these comments) so I'm gonna try that
I'm now placing my hairdryer on the aluminium part and after a while I can move the aluminium part. It doesn't move by itself yet, but I can move it. I think if I will also add some oil, it will work again!
@@WithLoveFeli Sorry for posting here, I have the same problem. did you somehow manage to solve it?
@@kovacsbarbara6363 no problem! I unfortunately don't remember what did the trick... I just did everything people in the comments here suggested and then it started working again! I hope you manage to get yours working again as well
Hello, thank you for this video, I tried to repair my Optima 150 which is quite similar, only thing is I'm block with the reverse feed mode, any idea how to solve this ? (maybe the aluminium block ?)
hello , I have too an Optima 150 that didn't work in the reverse feed mode , called a technician that in a few minutes succeeded to break down all the functions; please help me by sending me a photo of the internal part of the machine . many thanks sergiupetreanu@yahoo.com
At 4:55 he touches the block that actuates the reverse. It needs to be lubed and cycling freely in order to engage the reverse.
I also have reverse gear stuck, do you know how I can fix it?
Hello! I love your videos. I wish I saw these before attempting trying to fix mine. Do you know of a resource online to find diagrams and a part list of the stitch length mechanism?
Hi Olivia,
I'm sorry, I don't have any further infos to those old Huskys. I just bought mine with the defect stitch length mechanism and I wasn't able to find anything either. But I made some pics of the mechanism the time I disassambled it. Leave me a message : go to my channel - about - send message
great! thanks!
thank you!
hola buenas tardes me podrias orientar como ajustar tension de la husqvarna 150 E VIKING
hola Leobardo, pls use english (or german :) ) language. cheers
PEOPLESX Hello, can you help me about how adjust te tensión in the machine Husqvarna 150 E VIKING
Great videos for the mechanical part!
However, I'm looking for info about the electrical circuit.
Actually for a Optima 190, but I guess they must be quite similar - they are on the mechanical side.
My girlfriend has one of these, that blew the smoothing capacitor ten months ago - I successfully replaced that, but now it has done it again:-(
And as far I can see a resistor (below the cooling plate of the 'triode' - probably not the correct term) has been burned as well - to a degree, that I can't see the colour of the rings indicating the value.
Does someone have the diagram?
Or some good pictures, allowing me to figure out the value?
I kind of suspect the diode as well.
All these are cheap components, easily replaced - and she really likes this faithfull, old machine:-)
TIA Mich
Hi Mich,
unfortunately I don't have any Wire Diagram Manuals. But if it's "only" the smoothing cap, then I would go for a complete new set, but those caps need to be bipolar and of the correct "grade" (HF-Suppresion-Caps with low internal resistance and high voltage). The inducted voltage near the motor-brushes can go fairly high, way more then 230/115V.
Thanx for the reply. My girlfriend went to the very brillant and very old school (i.e. helpfull and having the spirit of 'rather repair than replace') shop for sewing machines (Guldager og sønner, Århus, Denmark). Their hardware specialist was very convinced, that it probaly not was the same but rather the other of the same type, that was blown - and of course he was right (stupid me, not getting this right). I have now replaced it (and also the third, smaller, one), which I, of course, should have done in January - I actually HAD bought all three of them in the first place) - as capacitors of the same age are likely to blow at the same time. The resistor most likely was discoloured by the first capacitor blowing up.
What yeR was this machine built?
Year
Are there any plastic parts? Or are they all metal?