Good video. I've struggled with my microsquirt for a few years. You're explanation on 70s distributors are a bit off. "36 degrees at 3500" means you get 36 degrees of mechanical advance IN ADDITION to whatever static advance is dialed it. If initial timing is set to 10 degrees, then you have 46 degrees total advance. Also, the vacuum advance should be connected to a PORTED vacuum port. This means you get zero vacuum advance at idle. When the throttle blades open up, the ported vacuum port is exposed and you get vacuum advance at cruising speeds.
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you are totally fkn clueless and I bet whatever you tune runs like a 💩! 70’s distributors have approximately 20* of mechanical advance, for example an HEI distributor from the factory has 20* mechanical and then you add your initial timing , say 16* then your total timing would be 36*. Now listen close.....always connect vacuum advance to manifold vacuum as you need extra advance at idle to fire that lean idle mixture early as the flame front needs more time to travel across the cylinder! The only exception is if you have some 70’s EGR bullshit with thermal switches that switch between manifold/ported vacuum depending on the needs of the engine at the moment. Not having enough timing at idle makes the engine run hotter which they would do on some early emissions controlled nonsense of the 70’s..... Outside that and especially for performance use manifold vacuum. David Vizard and a few other gurus have videos explaining this because a lot of people seem to be ignorant on the subject and then debate and spread misinformation!!! Instead of getting pissed at my candor learn something! You can test the theory yourself and you will see the difference.....engines at idle under heavy vacuum love extra timing and run much smoother with better throttle response....the dude in this video even says so...
listening to that Z makes me want my 1970 Datsun 510 back, I lowered it flared it and tried to make it fast, but those were rudimentary times in 1978....fun, good handling, slow car.
Hi. Just sondering is there a lag input in the tunerstudio ? It seems that the gauges run a but behind or slow ? If you compare to megasquirt ? Btw good videos 👍👍
Very interesting, those little lean blips .... maybe You can get some improvement by adjusting acceleration enrichment. When I got an electronic ignition for my racing classic Jaguar MK2 there was a procedure to optimize the ignition curve. You could set an ignition curve and then accelerate the car (using a higher gear so it takes a bit longer) and time how long it took the engine to get from 2000 to 3000RPM. Next you went back on the same stretch of road, added 1 or 2 degrees of timing and did the same again. As long as the time gets shorter you are still before max torque. Eventually you reach a point where the time is not improving any more or even dropping (now you get close to knocks) ..... if you set it 2 degrees back you got it right. I think this could be done with a data log filter where you exclude data below 2000 and above 3000RPMand include RPMdot and do such runs and monitor the time it takes to get there. Greatings Bernhard
So you set this up to idle at a lower idle RPM, then advance it in the next cell over(off idle), then slightly decrease from there, as the load increases?
Depends on your ecu. The one I used is Tunerstudio. It is great for Megasquirt, Speeduino, and a few other ecus. It is free, but does have a few aids for a small fee (autotune, warmup wizard, ect)
Been working on other things, Looking to dive into knock soon as I start to push the timing in the next few months (I like to do it in the winter time with the cooler air)
Two reasons, cam and tired bottom end on the block. The short block is a junkyard block for testing spark and detonation on. It has about 200k miles on it.
It does, and that said there are also a few other things that are coming into play as well. I am testing out a code I had for baro correction. I am at 4500' and when I updated to the newest firmware, it messed up my table a bit since it went from native 89 KPA to 83 KPA.. The other thing is the engine is not crossflow. So the cam compounds it a ton. But, all of this will be fixed in the near future :)
Oh I wish! I am sorry, I did not mean to sound like I am one of the few getting that special head. I more was talking about getting a better cam for the turbo and fixing the low compression. As well as a few other things.
great video, it helps a lot with this diferent method to get ignition curve figured out, thanks for the effort to help the diy comunity
Cool video and data. I'm excited to see the differences with both a lightweight flywheel and playing with idle timing to boot!
I can not wait to play on the tune for your car!
Great Video, I plan on trying this with my car.
Let me know how it goes and what your findings are!
Really cool man! Id really like to see some views on this video! Alot of good info
Thank you! Working on a good video to follow up on this spark timing now. Stay tuned!
Good video. I've struggled with my microsquirt for a few years. You're explanation on 70s distributors are a bit off. "36 degrees at 3500" means you get 36 degrees of mechanical advance IN ADDITION to whatever static advance is dialed it. If initial timing is set to 10 degrees, then you have 46 degrees total advance. Also, the vacuum advance should be connected to a PORTED vacuum port. This means you get zero vacuum advance at idle. When the throttle blades open up, the ported vacuum port is exposed and you get vacuum advance at cruising speeds.
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you are totally fkn clueless and I bet whatever you tune runs like a 💩! 70’s distributors have approximately 20* of mechanical advance, for example an HEI distributor from the factory has 20* mechanical and then you add your initial timing , say 16* then your total timing would be 36*. Now listen close.....always connect vacuum advance to manifold vacuum as you need extra advance at idle to fire that lean idle mixture early as the flame front needs more time to travel across the cylinder! The only exception is if you have some 70’s EGR bullshit with thermal switches that switch between manifold/ported vacuum depending on the needs of the engine at the moment. Not having enough timing at idle makes the engine run hotter which they would do on some early emissions controlled nonsense of the 70’s..... Outside that and especially for performance use manifold vacuum. David Vizard and a few other gurus have videos explaining this because a lot of people seem to be ignorant on the subject and then debate and spread misinformation!!! Instead of getting pissed at my candor learn something! You can test the theory yourself and you will see the difference.....engines at idle under heavy vacuum love extra timing and run much smoother with better throttle response....the dude in this video even says so...
Hey, thanks for showing that nice test. Did you test the high Ignition Advance under load?
listening to that Z makes me want my 1970 Datsun 510 back, I lowered it flared it and tried to make it fast, but those were rudimentary times in 1978....fun, good handling, slow car.
Sounding good
Thank you!
Great video.. can you tell me which program you use on your labtop.. .. Need one ...
Hi.
Just sondering is there a lag input in the tunerstudio ? It seems that the gauges run a but behind or slow ?
If you compare to megasquirt ?
Btw good videos 👍👍
Gotta love that Thanksgiving Point traffic... lol
You bet! Nice 5.0 btw.
Very interesting, those little lean blips .... maybe You can get some improvement by adjusting acceleration enrichment.
When I got an electronic ignition for my racing classic Jaguar MK2 there was a procedure to optimize the ignition curve. You could set an ignition curve and then accelerate the car (using a higher gear so it takes a bit longer) and time how long it took the engine to get from 2000 to 3000RPM. Next you went back on the same stretch of road, added 1 or 2 degrees of timing and did the same again. As long as the time gets shorter you are still before max torque. Eventually you reach a point where the time is not improving any more or even dropping (now you get close to knocks) ..... if you set it 2 degrees back you got it right.
I think this could be done with a data log filter where you exclude data below 2000 and above 3000RPMand include RPMdot and do such runs and monitor the time it takes to get there.
Greatings Bernhard
Under no load it will like lots of idle timing.
Video about Accel Enrichment would be awesome. There are not any videos that clearly explain how to set it up
Sure thing! I have been wanting to switch over to MAP based AE. I will try and do that next. Thank you
Did you ever do a video about timing at low rpm under load?
So you set this up to idle at a lower idle RPM, then advance it in the next cell over(off idle), then slightly decrease from there, as the load increases?
What would keep me from raving pass 4200 with the gold box megasquirt
What does it mean if the spark advance goes in to the negative numbers?
nice content
I appreciate your comment.
spontaneous guy haha
Be nice to know which software is good... thx
Depends on your ecu. The one I used is Tunerstudio. It is great for Megasquirt, Speeduino, and a few other ecus. It is free, but does have a few aids for a small fee (autotune, warmup wizard, ect)
Interested to see ms knock control/detection
Been working on other things, Looking to dive into knock soon as I start to push the timing in the next few months (I like to do it in the winter time with the cooler air)
@@CEKGarage I need to figure out how to have knock control on my speeduino ecu asap lol
Some have used Knocksence with some luck. I have yet to have a chance to dive into it.
@@CEKGarage are they still making knocksense? If so I'd grab one to try out.
Why is your idle vacuum so high? Do you have itbs?
Two reasons, cam and tired bottom end on the block. The short block is a junkyard block for testing spark and detonation on. It has about 200k miles on it.
@@CEKGarage My shitbox has like 35kpa at idle and its clocked 200k also.. Cam probably makes a big difference tho
It does, and that said there are also a few other things that are coming into play as well. I am testing out a code I had for baro correction. I am at 4500' and when I updated to the newest firmware, it messed up my table a bit since it went from native 89 KPA to 83 KPA.. The other thing is the engine is not crossflow. So the cam compounds it a ton. But, all of this will be fixed in the near future :)
@@CEKGarage Getting a crossflow head for the L28??
Oh I wish! I am sorry, I did not mean to sound like I am one of the few getting that special head. I more was talking about getting a better cam for the turbo and fixing the low compression. As well as a few other things.
terrible lifter noise you got bro.