Great Video, I personally use a reusable Stainless Steel Mesh Oil Filter (S28) from K&P Engineering in my 2015 GTX iS 260 Limited PWC and have been since soon after I purchased the Ski in April of 2020 at 54 Hours, my Rotax 4-Tec now has 184 Hours, Highly recommend it, I also have one in my 1983 Suzuki GS1100ES (since May 2016). Randy AKA randog311
Been building car engines for 40yrs., and one thing I learned is, always check any work you sent out to be machined. I've had so many bored cylinders, cranks, etc. not machine correctly. Don't trust anyone's work, check it your self before assembling, save you heartache.
I’m going to be removing and replacing my 260 engine. When is the engine alignment important? Will I get away with swapping the engine without having to buy the alignment tools and aligning the engine?
You should always align a seadoo driveshaft when an engine is removed because an unaligned driveshaft can cause all sorts of problems. Vibration, carbon seal wear problems, leaking, jet pump bearing problems, etc. On another note, in my experience, if the engine mounts are left bolted in the hull and a engine is removed and replaced, the engine is generally pretty close in alignment. However, I would still fine tune it to get it near perfect.
I was putting my head on last night and I torqued to 30 foot pounds then did the 120 and 90 and looked back at the shop manual for the next step and realized it said 30 INCH POUNDS. I misread it!! But in your video you said foot pounds also. Did you actually do foot pounds? Im scared that I way over torqued it lol
Generally the non supercharged ones are fine because they are a lot less power. However, I never like to take the chance so I make sure the updated higher grade stock bolts are installed on these. Anything hig performance related I go with the arp bolts.
I have 2006 Sea doo challenger 180 with the same engine but i cant locate the crankshaft sensor.Do you think my engine doesn't have one or it's at different location.
@@EastCoastAntics1 I was curious to what you said at 34:39 about changing the timing once the engine is in the jetski, would you mind explain how you did that? Agan, this video was amazingly good!
@@hoverberg Thank you! I was stating that you need to do a compression test once the engine is all set in the hull and hooked up (Can also be done on a test stand). If you do not get around 140-150psi (Supercharged engines) then you may need to adjust the timing a little bit by loosening those 3 bolts on the cam and rotating. If it is way low like 120psi, you are probably off a tooth.
Hey Michael. Great video. I’m rebuilding mine at the moment and video really helped… I’m stuck at the timing part…. #3 is at TDC, crank is locked. Cam is locked and my cam gear installed. Timing lines are perfect. However I noticed the marks On the crank and balancer don’t meet up. They are both at the 6 o’clock position. There is nothing in the manual that I have found that says anything about those marks being lined up when setting time. Are those marks for crank/balancer installation only. Or do they play into setting the timing??
@@EastCoastAntics1 they don’t. Before I set the head on I brought #3 to TDC and put in the pin. I didn’t notice the lines were off until after I set the cam gear
@@mikeolmstead293 Id re-check to make sure the crank locking pin is in the right place. You sure you don't have it threaded into one of the holes drilled into the crank for balancing purposes. I cant think of any of these engine variations throughout the years where the crank and counter balance marks don't line up with the locking tool installed properly.
@@EastCoastAntics1 it’s very possible, this is my first time building a seadoo motor. Something is definitely off. Im used to working on car engines. I will take it apart and re check when I get home tonight. I just needed assurance that the timing marks on the crank and balancer need to be lined up Thanks for that
So I figured out my mistake. I assumed the #3 piston was the one at the back of the motor. Once i realized it wasn’t and it was the one in the front, Everything went together perfectly. Marks lined up, and crank locked more positively.
@@jamenhulegaard5050 no sure what your talking about, heads don't turn. You don't set a head at tdc. You set a piston at tdc. Use the crank locking tool for tdc.
@@EastCoastAntics1 I'm referring to the cam in the head. But I figured it out. I just had to take the rocker arms off. Still kinda worries me that the cam didn't slide out though
@@jamenhulegaard5050 not if everything was installed right. Might be the water pump not keyed properly to the balance shaft. Try spinning the impeller.
Great video I'm about to use it to rebuild mine that just blew up 1 year after I got it.. but I really need to know your bolt pattern on the motor stand to the motor about to make a plate today
Hey great video, I was just re doing my bearings it’s all together and I cannot turn the motor over at all by hand like I could with the bad bearings is it normal to be that tight?
Hi Michael, great informative video. I am rebuilding my 215 motor and looking to know when is it required to bore out the block instead of honing it? does it need bigger pistons and different rings? could you please guide me to some information on that. Much Appreciated!!!
Thanks. You would bore a block if the bore is distorted or there is deep scoring or gouging. Yes it needs oversized pistons and rings if bored depending on how much it needs to be bored over (+0.5, +1mm, etc.). If it's been bored already and at its service limit it would have to be sleeved or you'd need a new block.
@@EastCoastAntics1thank you for that reply. When you assembled the engine, to check the play between crank and block, do you need any special tools? Or a normal caliper should be enough? Also you mention the pistons need a certain gap between them once installed and grinding it a particular way, could you elaborate on that a bit please. I really appreciate the info Michael. Thank you.
@@darshanpatelh yes there are many different measurement tools to use when building an engine (dial bore gauge, micrometer, etc). As for ring end gaps, it's all in the service manual regarding the gap widths for each ring.
Hey Michael. Great video man. I rebuilt my whole motor off of this. I was wondering you mentioned you were going to check the compression to double check timing. Hot does that work exactly. And can I turn the crank by hand to do this. My motor is for a mini jet boat build which I haven’t started the hull yet. It would just be nice to check this thing out before I get it powered up
Thank you. That's awesome! Glad I could help. Sorry I haven't gotten a chance to do a video on the timing yet. Basically to check timing you need to use the starter to turn the engine over. Put a compression gauge in one of the cylinders and using the allen bolts on the cam sprocket move them until you are around 145psi. To do this you would use the cam lockout tool and spin the bolt on the supercharger either clockwise or counter to get to the desired psi (145). That's a perfect starting. Recheck after the rings are broken in and you're good to go.
hello good night I'm from Brazil I follow your very top video and it helps a lot we here wanted to know how to get a complete manual I have a very poor rpx 255 jet ski parts here
Hi. There are a lot of places you can download the manual online, usually for a small cost (I downloaded mine and then printed and bound it). You may even find a hard print on eBay. Hope this helps.
I'm pretty much always doing rebuilds and have time whenever you'd like. Keep in mind there are a lot of variables at play. Condition of block, condition of head, condition of other parts, etc. Where are you located?
You referring to the plastic on the top timing sprocket or the guides? The top sprocket should have the plastic plate along with a metal plate for the rollover valve assembly and seal to ride along.
Hey buddy, great video! But my issue is, when i put the cases together and torque everything down the crank does not spin freely. Is there anything i could possibly do to fix that? Im kinda out of options. The crank does not spin at all no matter how much force i put on it. When the cases are split it spins pretty easy.
@@EastCoastAntics1 it only gets tight when the bottom case is on. I’m not sure if I’m overthinking it or what. But with just the case sitting on it it’s tough to spin. Plus I haven’t even torqued it down just yet.
Where do you get your parts? And are all the bearing sizes the same ? Never opened up a seadoo . I know my yamaha had 4 different bearing opinions. Green brown blk. Ect. Thanks for the videos
I get my parts from many different sources. There are different size bearings but generally they are STD size. If a crank needs to be cut or what not then sometimes you'd run different size bearings.
Sorry I didn't do an install video. Every ski is a little bit different. I wanted to primarily focus on the engine building part. I will keep an install video in mind for the next time I am doing a rebuild.
Was looking for part 3 also. Does the starter for this motor have a gear or just a shaft with flat sides? I pulled my starter out and there is no gear on it. Wondering if it snapped in two and it’s in the crankcase? Starter motor would run but not turn the engine.
Great video Michael!! I have a project I am working on. Sunk the ski 2020 Seadoo 130 GTI.... and salt water got into engine. I have the engine torn down and one of the cylinders is gouged from the salt water. I am looking for a good machine shop to bore the cylinders. Can you turn me on to the machine shop that you use? Also the best source to order the parts to rebuild it? Pistons, rings, bearings and gaskets. Thank you in advance.
@@EastCoastAntics1 Hey Michael, thanks for the fast response! I am in South Texas. I am happy to box it up and send to your machine shop on Long Island. It's worth it to me to know it will get done properly!! Can you send me their info?
@@robbymott1 No problem. I use Fulton Street Auto Machine Shop (Farmingdale, NY). Their phone number is 15164544800. The main guys their are Dougie and Dickie. They know me well. If you would rather send it to me, you can do that as well.
Hello Great Video. You seem to know your stuff. I am in the middle of rebuilding my 4 TEC 1503 which has similar issues to the one in this video. Salt water left inside and seized. I would not mind having you do it if the price and timing is right. How do I contact you to make arrangements to bring it by for a quote?
Hii need your help my jetski 06 gtx 155 was rebuild but now it doesn't get full rpm and full speed... it doesn't go over 43 mph.... do you know what could be the problem??
Hello, I have a question, do you recommend other head gaskets ?. And could you give me the head tightening moments and the steps? I will be very grateful. Regards.
Could you tell me which way the rods get installed on the pistons or does it matter. One side has 2 dots on the side of the rod. I know the piston arrow faces the exhaust.
Hi, I have never seen anything in any of the service manuals that say they must go a certain way. I always make sure they go back together in the same orientation as they came out. The rods are symmetric so it shouldn't matter which way they go. I like to keep them so all the dots are facing the same way. I have taken engines apart that are stock OEM and I have seen the rods in all different directions.
That was basically it for now. The engine is back in the ski and running. What kind of updates would you like to see? Any specific videos you'd like me to do?
I have a brand new supercharger but wasn't inserting right so I decided to look inside and saw more what need to be fixed, yesterday was the saddest day of my life.
@@badassvon I really would have to see the motor in person and take it apart to assess the damage. If there are metal shavings the entire engine would have to be disassembled and cleaned prior to rebuilding and replacing broken parts and required hardware and gaskets.
My timing marks are level with the head but I'm getting 100psi across all cylinders. If I move the chain 1 tooth to the left or right the lines are not level with the head anymore. Any suggestions ?
They're never going to be totally level. It'll usually be angled down towards the exhaust side a bit. Even at 100 with them close to level it seems like there's another problem. Either rings are not sealing (are the ring end gaps staggered? ) or you have leaking valves. .
@@EastCoastAntics1 the ring ends were staggered 120deg from each other during installation. Also the valves were holding vaccum when the head was tested. I am going to try retard or advance the timing to see if the number change
@@Sajadhus19 ok just don't go too far off with moving where the chain is on the sprocket or it can contact valves and bend them. Usually after a fresh rebuild even being a tooth off on the timing chain I don't see lower than 120 psi.
@@EastCoastAntics1 I only did a compression test because it's running rich and idle is rough. Could the low compression be the reason? This morning its showing 110psi
I'm in the final stages of assembly after rebuild. The lower end turned nice and smooth prior to installing the head. Crank and balance shaft mark are aligned, locking tool used on the crank and head. Installed the head, and timing chain ensuring the 1503 timing marks are lined up. Question is, how hard should it be to spin the motor over with the head on it and plugs removed? I really seem to feel some resistance from the valve springs as it turns over......is that normal?
If the valvetrain and timing chain are all on, it's going to be pretty hard to turn over by hand after that due to all the valve spring resistance. That's normal.
@@EastCoastAntics1 thanks for the quick reply. I was using a flat shaft inserted into the slot on the end of the balance shaft and turned everything over with a wrench. The pressure I feel isn't consistent. Only thing I can think of is that I'm feeling the pressure of the valve springs.
@@bjensen64 yes that's the valve springs since they will load up and then unload depending on what stroke they are on. You generally notice the same thing when turning over the engine by the supercharger if your ski has one. If the engine spun over before the heads and cam timing installed you should be good as long at you checked that the cam moved freely in the head before installing all of the valvetrain. Also making sure timing it correct and the cranks not stopping and no longer turning over. That would indicate valve interference. .
Everything is spinning, feels smooth but definitely feel the valves loading and unloading. This engine is supercharge but I inherited it after it broke both exhaust valves on number three and I dont have experience with a 4 tec prior to thos motor. Thanks again for the feedback.
@@EastCoastAntics1 I recently purchased my first machine and I got absolutely blindsided. Took it to the lake and within 4 minutes the machine had blown up. I’m just wondering if my engine is some how salvageable or if I need to spend the 6-8k it’s probably going to cost to put a new motor in
@@SomeMikeGuy That's a really tough question to answer. First thing would be to tear it down and see what happened and find out why it happened. There are a lot of things that can go wrong.
@@EastCoastAntics1 yes, it’s been completely torn down and I know what it needs to be fixed I’m just not sure if I can Frankenstein a build or if I need to go full new
Wicked video appreciate the timing chain / cam, crank information and all the torque specs 🤙
This was helpful, not many videos out there showing people actual video of the crankshaft and timing chain being installed.
Agreed. I'm glad it helped!
I agree 🤙
Great video. Im glad you brought up ring end gap. Alot of people overlook that step and it can destroy a whole rebuild in a flash. Very nice
Nice video, looking for part 3
Great Video, I personally use a reusable Stainless Steel Mesh Oil Filter (S28) from K&P Engineering in my 2015 GTX iS 260 Limited PWC and have been since soon after I purchased the Ski in April of 2020 at 54 Hours, my Rotax 4-Tec now has 184 Hours, Highly recommend it, I also have one in my 1983 Suzuki GS1100ES (since May 2016). Randy AKA randog311
Great video and thx for torque specs
Thanks Michael. This video helped me rebuild my rxp.. very much appreciated.
Im glad it helped!
I'm pretty good at doing all my own mechanic work I must say this video is a huge time saver awsome job and all the torq specs as u go 100x 👍👍👍👍
Thank you for the kind words!
Great vid mate! I just rebuilt my engine from it 👍🏻
Great and thorough video sir
Thank you.
Been building car engines for 40yrs., and one thing I learned is, always check any work you sent out to be machined. I've had so many bored cylinders, cranks, etc. not machine correctly. Don't trust anyone's work, check it your self before assembling, save you heartache.
Agreed! Once you find someone good it's worth sticking with them as well.
Agreed I have been always tired of machine shops that costed me huge money
Great vid details. Much appreciate.
Thanks for a great vid, very very descriptive and well done!!
Thank you!
Thanks you for your vidéo !!! Very well explained and help full !!!
Thank you.
Great DIY video Mike!! Just stumbled upon your TH-cam channel. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Thank you!
Great job buddy
Thank you!
I’m going to be removing and replacing my 260 engine. When is the engine alignment important? Will I get away with swapping the engine without having to buy the alignment tools and aligning the engine?
You should always align a seadoo driveshaft when an engine is removed because an unaligned driveshaft can cause all sorts of problems. Vibration, carbon seal wear problems, leaking, jet pump bearing problems, etc. On another note, in my experience, if the engine mounts are left bolted in the hull and a engine is removed and replaced, the engine is generally pretty close in alignment. However, I would still fine tune it to get it near perfect.
Nice work bri
I was putting my head on last night and I torqued to 30 foot pounds then did the 120 and 90 and looked back at the shop manual for the next step and realized it said 30 INCH POUNDS. I misread it!! But in your video you said foot pounds also. Did you actually do foot pounds? Im scared that I way over torqued it lol
It is indeed 30 ft lbs initially then 120 degree and then 90 degrees for the 4 tec head
Great video enjoy watching your rebuild and knowledge. On flywheel bolt, do the none supercharger model like 155 or 170 need the ARP bolts?
Generally the non supercharged ones are fine because they are a lot less power. However, I never like to take the chance so I make sure the updated higher grade stock bolts are installed on these. Anything hig performance related I go with the arp bolts.
I have 2006 Sea doo challenger 180 with the same engine but i cant locate the crankshaft sensor.Do you think my engine doesn't have one or it's at different location.
I believe for that year it's inside the PTO and not bolted on the outside like the never ones.
Great video thanks a Mill! But were is vid 3?
There is no part 3.
@@EastCoastAntics1 I was curious to what you said at 34:39 about changing the timing once the engine is in the jetski, would you mind explain how you did that? Agan, this video was amazingly good!
@@hoverberg Thank you! I was stating that you need to do a compression test once the engine is all set in the hull and hooked up (Can also be done on a test stand). If you do not get around 140-150psi (Supercharged engines) then you may need to adjust the timing a little bit by loosening those 3 bolts on the cam and rotating. If it is way low like 120psi, you are probably off a tooth.
@@EastCoastAntics1 Sweeet! Thank you!👍👍
Do you know the difference between the 06-16 gti 130 engine and the 17+ motor. Are they compatible for swap or completely different
If you're talking about ace vs 4 tec, although they are very similiar, they are different. Or do you mean pre 06 4tec and 07+ 4 tec?
Hey Michael. Great video. I’m rebuilding mine at the moment and video really helped… I’m stuck at the timing part…. #3 is at TDC, crank is locked. Cam is locked and my cam gear installed. Timing lines are perfect. However I noticed the marks On the crank and balancer don’t meet up. They are both at the 6 o’clock position. There is nothing in the manual that I have found that says anything about those marks being lined up when setting time. Are those marks for crank/balancer installation only. Or do they play into setting the timing??
Thanks. When the crank is locked the marks on the crank and counterbalance should line up.
@@EastCoastAntics1 they don’t. Before I set the head on I brought #3 to TDC and put in the pin. I didn’t notice the lines were off until after I set the cam gear
@@mikeolmstead293 Id re-check to make sure the crank locking pin is in the right place. You sure you don't have it threaded into one of the holes drilled into the crank for balancing purposes. I cant think of any of these engine variations throughout the years where the crank and counter balance marks don't line up with the locking tool installed properly.
@@EastCoastAntics1 it’s very possible, this is my first time building a seadoo motor. Something is definitely off. Im used to working on car engines. I will take it apart and re check when I get home tonight. I just needed assurance that the timing marks on the crank and balancer need to be lined up Thanks for that
So I figured out my mistake. I assumed the #3 piston was the one at the back of the motor. Once i realized it wasn’t and it was the one in the front, Everything went together perfectly. Marks lined up, and crank locked more positively.
Dang, just forgot to put the chain and the guide lol
Haha it happens. I still forget here and there lol
How do I make sure my head is in tdc? Tried turning it... It won't budge
@@jamenhulegaard5050 no sure what your talking about, heads don't turn. You don't set a head at tdc. You set a piston at tdc. Use the crank locking tool for tdc.
@@EastCoastAntics1 I'm referring to the cam in the head. But I figured it out. I just had to take the rocker arms off. Still kinda worries me that the cam didn't slide out though
My pto cover is not sliding on like it should... It's almost like the stator is hitting the magneto... Is that a thing?
@@jamenhulegaard5050 not if everything was installed right. Might be the water pump not keyed properly to the balance shaft. Try spinning the impeller.
Yeah they sent the wrong magneto wheel. I can't seem to find the bolt pattern for the PTO cover in the manual
@@jamenhulegaard5050 it's in the service manual for sure
Where or what is that book you have that has the torque specs?
Seadoo service manual
Great video I'm about to use it to rebuild mine that just blew up 1 year after I got it.. but I really need to know your bolt pattern on the motor stand to the motor about to make a plate today
Thanks! I don't know off the top of my head. I just made a templete and drilled it to match.
👍👌🏼
Hey great video, I was just re doing my bearings it’s all together and I cannot turn the motor over at all by hand like I could with the bad bearings is it normal to be that tight?
Nope should spin over by hand, check your clearences on everything.
Hi Michael, great informative video. I am rebuilding my 215 motor and looking to know when is it required to bore out the block instead of honing it? does it need bigger pistons and different rings? could you please guide me to some information on that. Much Appreciated!!!
Thanks. You would bore a block if the bore is distorted or there is deep scoring or gouging. Yes it needs oversized pistons and rings if bored depending on how much it needs to be bored over (+0.5, +1mm, etc.). If it's been bored already and at its service limit it would have to be sleeved or you'd need a new block.
@@EastCoastAntics1thank you for that reply. When you assembled the engine, to check the play between crank and block, do you need any special tools? Or a normal caliper should be enough? Also you mention the pistons need a certain gap between them once installed and grinding it a particular way, could you elaborate on that a bit please. I really appreciate the info Michael. Thank you.
@@darshanpatelh yes there are many different measurement tools to use when building an engine (dial bore gauge, micrometer, etc). As for ring end gaps, it's all in the service manual regarding the gap widths for each ring.
What silicone do you use on the case? There are so many options it’s overwhelming.
Loctite 5910.
Do you work on peoples skis? If so where are you located?
Yes. I'm on Long Island, New York
Hey Michael. Great video man. I rebuilt my whole motor off of this. I was wondering you mentioned you were going to check the compression to double check timing. Hot does that work exactly. And can I turn the crank by hand to do this. My motor is for a mini jet boat build which I haven’t started the hull yet. It would just be nice to check this thing out before I get it powered up
Thank you. That's awesome! Glad I could help. Sorry I haven't gotten a chance to do a video on the timing yet. Basically to check timing you need to use the starter to turn the engine over. Put a compression gauge in one of the cylinders and using the allen bolts on the cam sprocket move them until you are around 145psi. To do this you would use the cam lockout tool and spin the bolt on the supercharger either clockwise or counter to get to the desired psi (145). That's a perfect starting. Recheck after the rings are broken in and you're good to go.
@@EastCoastAntics1 would love to see this on video thanks
Мотор собрали из очень не качественных запчастей и радуются((((
Китай поршневая не ходит на чарджере....
@@EastCoastAntics1 Waiting for this video. new subscriber. !
Just came across your video. Great job. Keep up the informative vids.
Great video.What's the torque spec for 1630 ace?Same like for 1503?
Similiar, but as per the updated service manuals some have changed a little bit.
hello good night I'm from Brazil I follow your very top video and it helps a lot we here wanted to know how to get a complete manual
I have a very poor rpx 255 jet ski parts here
Hi. There are a lot of places you can download the manual online, usually for a small cost (I downloaded mine and then printed and bound it). You may even find a hard print on eBay. Hope this helps.
I have this same motor (2012 RXT 260 iS) with a blown piston, If there's any way you can find time to redo it, let me know where to take it.
I'm pretty much always doing rebuilds and have time whenever you'd like. Keep in mind there are a lot of variables at play. Condition of block, condition of head, condition of other parts, etc. Where are you located?
Where did you get a printed shop manual? I have a pdf for mine but it’s not viewable on some images
I got the PDF then just printed it.
Ha my timing cam has no plastic on it it’s just metal is that right
You referring to the plastic on the top timing sprocket or the guides? The top sprocket should have the plastic plate along with a metal plate for the rollover valve assembly and seal to ride along.
Hey buddy, great video! But my issue is, when i put the cases together and torque everything down the crank does not spin freely. Is there anything i could possibly do to fix that? Im kinda out of options. The crank does not spin at all no matter how much force i put on it. When the cases are split it spins pretty easy.
Sounds like a bearing clearance issue. Need to measure the clearances to see why.
@@EastCoastAntics1I have not changed the bearings. It’s still oem bearings only thing that is new is the pistons. Very confused man.
@@ohdatssnowman hard for me to say without seeing it in person.
@@EastCoastAntics1 it only gets tight when the bottom case is on. I’m not sure if I’m overthinking it or what. But with just the case sitting on it it’s tough to spin. Plus I haven’t even torqued it down just yet.
@@ohdatssnowman Id have to see it to see what the deal is.
Where do you get your parts? And are all the bearing sizes the same ? Never opened up a seadoo . I know my yamaha had 4 different bearing opinions. Green brown blk. Ect. Thanks for the videos
I get my parts from many different sources. There are different size bearings but generally they are STD size. If a crank needs to be cut or what not then sometimes you'd run different size bearings.
Excelent video, thanks for sharing, is there some place to download the manual?
You can find it on Google, but you usually have to pay for it.
Looking to get a rebuild done on my ski how would I get into contact with you? Awesome work!
You can email me at Reinhart1990@gmail.com
Болты головки новые ставил? Спасибо.
@@user-nq3ny9pg4x yes, always install new head bolts. They are torque to yield.
Hey Michael, I like your engine stand. What "brand" of unit is it? Looks nice and light weight.
I'm not really sure. There is no label on it. It's probably over 30 years old. Sorry I couldn't help.
Is there a part III - installation? 😀
Sorry I didn't do an install video. Every ski is a little bit different. I wanted to primarily focus on the engine building part. I will keep an install video in mind for the next time I am doing a rebuild.
Was looking for part 3 also. Does the starter for this motor have a gear or just a shaft with flat sides? I pulled my starter out and there is no gear on it. Wondering if it snapped in two and it’s in the crankcase? Starter motor would run but not turn the engine.
Great video Michael!! I have a project I am working on. Sunk the ski 2020 Seadoo 130 GTI.... and salt water got into engine. I have the engine torn down and one of the cylinders is gouged from the salt water. I am looking for a good machine shop to bore the cylinders. Can you turn me on to the machine shop that you use? Also the best source to order the parts to rebuild it? Pistons, rings, bearings and gaskets. Thank you in advance.
Im not sure what area you are located in. Let me know. I use a small shop near me on long Island. As for ordering parts, I use SBT or WSM mostly.
@@EastCoastAntics1 Hey Michael, thanks for the fast response! I am in South Texas. I am happy to box it up and send to your machine shop on Long Island. It's worth it to me to know it will get done properly!! Can you send me their info?
@@robbymott1 No problem. I use Fulton Street Auto Machine Shop (Farmingdale, NY). Their phone number is 15164544800. The main guys their are Dougie and Dickie. They know me well. If you would rather send it to me, you can do that as well.
@@EastCoastAntics1 Man you are awesome!! I will give them a call. Thank you so much!!
@@robbymott1 No problem. You're welcome!
Hello Michael, Just wondering what brand torque wrenches are you using?
Hi, they are the newer generation craftsman torque wrenches.
Hey Michael , just wondering what manual you use for the seadoo rotax 4-tec engine 1503 rebuild? Thank, great video.
Hello Great Video. You seem to know your stuff. I am in the middle of rebuilding my 4 TEC 1503 which has similar issues to the one in this video. Salt water left inside and seized. I would not mind having you do it if the price and timing is right. How do I contact you to make arrangements to bring it by for a quote?
Thank you! You can email me at Reinhart1990@gmail.com
Hey Michael how much do you charge for rebuilt a rotax 1603 ? Where are you located ?
It depends on a lot of factors. I'm located on long Island, New York. You can email me at Reinhart1990@gmail.com
Hii need your help my jetski 06 gtx 155 was rebuild but now it doesn't get full rpm and full speed... it doesn't go over 43 mph.... do you know what could be the problem??
That's a real broad question. It could be a lot of things. Rebuilt incorrectly, bad jet pump bearings, cavitation, exhaust blockage, electrical, etc.
@@EastCoastAntics1 waoooo but thanks for your comment
Hello, I have a question, do you recommend other head gaskets ?. And could you give me the head tightening moments and the steps? I will be very grateful. Regards.
For most builds I recommend the oem head gasket. They hold up well. All of the torque specs and tightening procedures are in the service manual.
Could you tell me which way the rods get installed on the pistons or does it matter. One side has 2 dots on the side of the rod. I know the piston arrow faces the exhaust.
Hi, I have never seen anything in any of the service manuals that say they must go a certain way. I always make sure they go back together in the same orientation as they came out. The rods are symmetric so it shouldn't matter which way they go. I like to keep them so all the dots are facing the same way. I have taken engines apart that are stock OEM and I have seen the rods in all different directions.
Hey Michael. Thanks for the video. What is the part number for the ARP flywheel bolt you used?
how to set it on time with piston and valve ?
What do you think of the 4 tec vs the Yamaha’s
I think they both have their plus and minuses. I'd say they're the top 2 brands. I do prefer seadoo over Yamaha.
Where did you get your manual from as I'm in search for one ?? Cheers
I actually downloaded the the electronic version PDF online and then I printed it out and binded it.
@@EastCoastAntics1ok awesome would you happen to know what web site mate 😁
@@tyrogers2631 seadoomanuals.net/
Thanks mate
my OCD kept saying paint it paint it
Hi Michael, any updates on this project?
That was basically it for now. The engine is back in the ski and running. What kind of updates would you like to see? Any specific videos you'd like me to do?
@@EastCoastAntics1 Reinstalling it in the ski, lining up the pump, etc. All that would be great. Thanks!
@@cap2c484 I will keep those in mind for future videos. Thanks for the input!
Where did you find a shop manual? I can't seem to find one for a 03 gtx185
I got mine online. I just checked with a simple google search and there is one for your ski.
@@EastCoastAntics1 ok. I'll look into that. Thanks man
Where did you buy your piston rings and connecting rods fully assembled from?
I did not buy them fully assembled. I assembled them.
@@EastCoastAntics1 Oh ok.
Nice, how much you charge to rebuild i blew my supercharger and a piece of the shaft broke inside.
Hi, It depends on a few things. Are you asking about a supercharger or engine rebuild?
Engine, i can see a few broken pieces inside when I flash the camera lights.
I have a brand new supercharger but wasn't inserting right so I decided to look inside and saw more what need to be fixed, yesterday was the saddest day of my life.
@@badassvon I really would have to see the motor in person and take it apart to assess the damage. If there are metal shavings the entire engine would have to be disassembled and cleaned prior to rebuilding and replacing broken parts and required hardware and gaskets.
@@EastCoastAntics1 do you have a business card?
Did you measure the bearing clearnces?
Always do. I mentioned that in the video. May make another video specifically on doing that part.
This video would be great! I’ve seen different ways to measure bearing clearances. Curious to see how you are doing yours!
What repair manual are you using?
Seadoo manual
My timing marks are level with the head but I'm getting 100psi across all cylinders. If I move the chain 1 tooth to the left or right the lines are not level with the head anymore. Any suggestions ?
They're never going to be totally level. It'll usually be angled down towards the exhaust side a bit. Even at 100 with them close to level it seems like there's another problem. Either rings are not sealing (are the ring end gaps staggered? ) or you have leaking valves. .
@@EastCoastAntics1 the ring ends were staggered 120deg from each other during installation. Also the valves were holding vaccum when the head was tested. I am going to try retard or advance the timing to see if the number change
@@Sajadhus19 ok just don't go too far off with moving where the chain is on the sprocket or it can contact valves and bend them. Usually after a fresh rebuild even being a tooth off on the timing chain I don't see lower than 120 psi.
@@EastCoastAntics1 I only did a compression test because it's running rich and idle is rough. Could the low compression be the reason? This morning its showing 110psi
@@Sajadhus19 yes that would definitely make it not run well. Sounds like you got an internal engine issue. Probably ring or valve related.
Looking to have mine rebuilt if interested pm me
Hi, how can I go about messaging you? Is there an email address I can reach you at?
I'm in the final stages of assembly after rebuild. The lower end turned nice and smooth prior to installing the head. Crank and balance shaft mark are aligned, locking tool used on the crank and head. Installed the head, and timing chain ensuring the 1503 timing marks are lined up. Question is, how hard should it be to spin the motor over with the head on it and plugs removed? I really seem to feel some resistance from the valve springs as it turns over......is that normal?
If the valvetrain and timing chain are all on, it's going to be pretty hard to turn over by hand after that due to all the valve spring resistance. That's normal.
@@EastCoastAntics1 thanks for the quick reply. I was using a flat shaft inserted into the slot on the end of the balance shaft and turned everything over with a wrench. The pressure I feel isn't consistent. Only thing I can think of is that I'm feeling the pressure of the valve springs.
@@bjensen64 yes that's the valve springs since they will load up and then unload depending on what stroke they are on. You generally notice the same thing when turning over the engine by the supercharger if your ski has one. If the engine spun over before the heads and cam timing installed you should be good as long at you checked that the cam moved freely in the head before installing all of the valvetrain. Also making sure timing it correct and the cranks not stopping and no longer turning over. That would indicate valve interference. .
Everything is spinning, feels smooth but definitely feel the valves loading and unloading. This engine is supercharge but I inherited it after it broke both exhaust valves on number three and I dont have experience with a 4 tec prior to thos motor.
Thanks again for the feedback.
@@bjensen64 you're welcome! Let me know how it goes once you get it running.
Hey do you have an instagram or a way I can DM you??? I just have some questions regarding a 1503
You can ask them here if that works.
@@EastCoastAntics1 I recently purchased my first machine and I got absolutely blindsided. Took it to the lake and within 4 minutes the machine had blown up. I’m just wondering if my engine is some how salvageable or if I need to spend the 6-8k it’s probably going to cost to put a new motor in
@@SomeMikeGuy That's a really tough question to answer. First thing would be to tear it down and see what happened and find out why it happened. There are a lot of things that can go wrong.
@@EastCoastAntics1 yes, it’s been completely torn down and I know what it needs to be fixed I’m just not sure if I can Frankenstein a build or if I need to go full new
@@SomeMikeGuy ok so what was the problem with it? You need to check all the parts based on service manual specs and see if they are reusable.
One question, what tightening force does the valve cover have?
89 in/lb
@@EastCoastAntics1 Thank you so much