Thanks for guide how to use blue stuff. one of my warhammer miniature weapon parts missing and i'm worried about how to cover it up. but now i can fix with sprue with blue stuff.
Hi is this good to make a headsculpt made of resin 1/12 scale with tiny spiked hair with undercuts on those parts, will i be able to remove without breaking the fragile pieced or should i use instead some liquid shore a low cure silicone? Thank you
Hello! Blue Stuff is useful for making quick copies of objects with reasonable detail retention. For complicated shapes, a multipiece mold made of RTV/silicone will give best results.
Hello Mr B. Yes, you can use any moulding material with Blue Stuff. 2 part epoxy putty, UV resin, liquid casting resin, paste putty, plaster, liquid plastic etc can all be used to cast in Blue Stuff.
@@mr.b415 I would be careful, some two part epoxies and resins can heat up when combined. If they do they will warp the blue stuff mould and you will some to a lot of detail
If i understand correctly greenstuff should be more flexible after curing, so i can copy a piece and manipulate is slightly after casting. Does this sound right to you?
Yes, that can happen as the Blue Stuff stretches when you squeeze it around your original. A bit like a loose mask. For tighter details try applying the Blue Stuff as per normal and then dropping the lot back into the hot water. This way you can press against the original and get a tighter mould with less growth of your duplicates.
I've been experimenting with Blue Stuff molds and Milliput. I've still got a ways to go, but 3/4's of a pack of Milliput later and I've finally got a decent result. I learned that even with a Blue Stuff mold, it still pays to add "channels" so that the Miliput has somewhere to flow. Even poking a couple of holes in the deepest recesses makes a big difference. Without the channels, I get "holes" - actually more like broken corners (I'm casting mechanical model parts) which are damn near impossible to fill in. I'm not 100% sure if it really makes a difference, but I mix the Milliput with Isopropyl Alcohol to soften it; my theory being that it will give sharper detail. I put the Milliput in a bit at a time, pressing it in with a piece of wooden dowel or a toothbrush handle, and build up until the mold is full. One good thing about Milliput is it's got a really long working time. I also tried using a piece of JB Weld SteelStik. A word of warning: It doesn't tell you on the pack, but wear gloves. It chemically reacts and gets HOT. I'm not sure I'd bother trying it again, it has a ridiculously short working time - less than 5 minutes. But boy, does it ever set rock hard. It got me wondering if there is a way to make Milliput stronger, like maybe mixing it with aluminium filings or something?
Milliput is brittle by nature. You will get better results for sharp details with resilient putties like Green Stuff or better still, UV cured resin. The Green Stuff UV resin works very well since the resin flows into every detail and the UV penetrates the translucent Blue Stuff. Milliput can be mixed with other putties to get the consistency you like.
Hi Brent. Glad you enjoy our videos. Sorry, I don't think there are any more Australian plastic modelling magazines in circulation. I believe ModelArt Australia was the last one and ceased in 2020.
Thermoplastic is a term that describes it's function, not the product itself. I wish you luck in finding the exact plastic and use it with success in a reasonable amount of time. For my money, I buy and use blue stuff.
as ive said on other videos:Blue-stuff is completely useless garbage! If you use it for coinshaped items, it might work, but for anything deeper (higher) then that, the material remains to hard, even when heated up properly. Considering its pricetag, your MUCH better of with a 2 compoment sillicon, yes; you cant reuse it but pricewise its similar with much better results. Dont spend any money on this blue dogshit. let me know if you want me to post a vid on how shit it actually is.
Fully disagree. Blue stuff is useful in many situations. Yes, 2 part silicone/RTV offers better detail but Blue Stuff gives good results without the mess or waiting for RTV to set. Price is way cheaper than RTV. Why don't you watch this video demonstrating deeper items being cast: th-cam.com/video/8rOS6iggye8/w-d-xo.html
Use a Lego framework for better results. Mix milliput with green stuff. Then clamp the mold properly. I’ve got good results but the flash can be an issue for complex parts
@@carlstanford7607this was gonna be one of my questions, I'm trying to cast elements of scenery to use for basing, so larger components. If I can do two single molds (front and back) then join them to get the detail, I think Lego would be perfect thank you.
This was exactly the sort of video I was looking for, cheers guys.
So glad you found it useful!
thanks for the step by step! going to try this with a few Necron and Space Marin parts
Thank you for watching and best of luck making extra bits!
Thanks for guide how to use blue stuff.
one of my warhammer miniature weapon parts missing and i'm worried about how to cover it up.
but now i can fix with sprue with blue stuff.
It’s a great tool for fixing up miniatures, thanks for watching.
Awesome information in this video although, all I can hear is Korg giving Thor a hobby tutorial.
Glad you found the video helpful. Are you saying I sound like Korg?
Hi is this good to make a headsculpt made of resin 1/12 scale with tiny spiked hair with undercuts on those parts, will i be able to remove without breaking the fragile pieced or should i use instead some liquid shore a low cure silicone? Thank you
Hello! Blue Stuff is useful for making quick copies of objects with reasonable detail retention. For complicated shapes, a multipiece mold made of RTV/silicone will give best results.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne yep i agree, thank you
Can the blue stuff be used with liquid resins?
Hello Mr B. Yes, you can use any moulding material with Blue Stuff. 2 part epoxy putty, UV resin, liquid casting resin, paste putty, plaster, liquid plastic etc can all be used to cast in Blue Stuff.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne thanks for the reply...
@@mr.b415 I would be careful, some two part epoxies and resins can heat up when combined. If they do they will warp the blue stuff mould and you will some to a lot of detail
@@stuartdodd7156 Thanks for the tip, I'll keep it in mind.
Would Easy Cast resin affect the mold?
Magical BJ - can’t wait to get home to Mildura and try Blue Stuff for making Western Front sandbags!
It is magical, John. Please let me know how it works out for you.
Lost a part. You saved my life ❣️
Haha! Glad to have helped!
If i understand correctly greenstuff should be more flexible after curing, so i can copy a piece and manipulate is slightly after casting.
Does this sound right to you?
Greenstuff does feel more pliable but it is difficult to manipulate after it is cured. Once cured it needs to be cut or sanded to change shape.
Is always normal to get the copies made of milliput somewhat larger than the original model? My copies are like 1-1.5 mm bigger mostlty
Yes, that can happen as the Blue Stuff stretches when you squeeze it around your original. A bit like a loose mask. For tighter details try applying the Blue Stuff as per normal and then dropping the lot back into the hot water. This way you can press against the original and get a tighter mould with less growth of your duplicates.
Thanks! I will try that
I've been experimenting with Blue Stuff molds and Milliput. I've still got a ways to go, but 3/4's of a pack of Milliput later and I've finally got a decent result.
I learned that even with a Blue Stuff mold, it still pays to add "channels" so that the Miliput has somewhere to flow. Even poking a couple of holes in the deepest recesses makes a big difference. Without the channels, I get "holes" - actually more like broken corners (I'm casting mechanical model parts) which are damn near impossible to fill in.
I'm not 100% sure if it really makes a difference, but I mix the Milliput with Isopropyl Alcohol to soften it; my theory being that it will give sharper detail. I put the Milliput in a bit at a time, pressing it in with a piece of wooden dowel or a toothbrush handle, and build up until the mold is full. One good thing about Milliput is it's got a really long working time.
I also tried using a piece of JB Weld SteelStik. A word of warning: It doesn't tell you on the pack, but wear gloves. It chemically reacts and gets HOT. I'm not sure I'd bother trying it again, it has a ridiculously short working time - less than 5 minutes. But boy, does it ever set rock hard. It got me wondering if there is a way to make Milliput stronger, like maybe mixing it with aluminium filings or something?
Milliput is brittle by nature. You will get better results for sharp details with resilient putties like Green Stuff or better still, UV cured resin. The Green Stuff UV resin works very well since the resin flows into every detail and the UV penetrates the translucent Blue Stuff. Milliput can be mixed with other putties to get the consistency you like.
What is a good austrailan plastic model magazine to subscribe to luv your channel
Hi Brent. Glad you enjoy our videos. Sorry, I don't think there are any more Australian plastic modelling magazines in circulation. I believe ModelArt Australia was the last one and ceased in 2020.
Just ordered from you on ebay.... didn't even realise I had your video open in another tab
Excellent! let us know if you need any further info..
Huge help man!
So glad it helped!
What the f so blue stuff actually a thermoplastic soo i can just buy many thermoplastic for such small amount of blue stuff
What?
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne do you know blue stuff is more expensive than thermoplastic even they are the same product
Thermoplastic is a term that describes it's function, not the product itself. I wish you luck in finding the exact plastic and use it with success in a reasonable amount of time. For my money, I buy and use blue stuff.
@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne oooo but i only find clear blue stuff on online market is there any different between blue and clear onyomaru
What? Sorry, you don't make any sense. This video is about Blue Stuff.
Aarrggghhhh ALIEN,when does her chest EXPLODE
Wait and see.
as ive said on other videos:Blue-stuff is completely useless garbage!
If you use it for coinshaped items, it might work, but for anything deeper (higher) then that, the material remains to hard, even when heated up properly.
Considering its pricetag, your MUCH better of with a 2 compoment sillicon, yes; you cant reuse it but pricewise its similar with much better results.
Dont spend any money on this blue dogshit.
let me know if you want me to post a vid on how shit it actually is.
Fully disagree. Blue stuff is useful in many situations. Yes, 2 part silicone/RTV offers better detail but Blue Stuff gives good results without the mess or waiting for RTV to set. Price is way cheaper than RTV. Why don't you watch this video demonstrating deeper items being cast: th-cam.com/video/8rOS6iggye8/w-d-xo.html
Use a Lego framework for better results. Mix milliput with green stuff. Then clamp the mold properly. I’ve got good results but the flash can be an issue for complex parts
@@carlstanford7607this was gonna be one of my questions, I'm trying to cast elements of scenery to use for basing, so larger components.
If I can do two single molds (front and back) then join them to get the detail, I think Lego would be perfect thank you.