Oh, this looks incredible! I recently ordered a very rare unreleased toy that is missing a few components that most fortunately have duplicates (the same piece six times but missing two), and everything I've been looking at is prohibitively expensive (several hundred USD). The fidelity of the minis you made with this tutorial are incredible and I think more than sufficient for what I'm doing, and evidently I can get an entire setup for like $25 USD. I'm going to try it; wish me luck! Thank you for posting this! UPDATE: it worked perfectly! This stuff is basically a miracle product and cut a $200-$400 repair down to only $30! 11/10 would recommend to any sort of toy repair
Just out of curiosity, what material did you fill the mold with? A two part epoxy from a hardware store, or something else? Great to hear someone had such good results! I got a ton of fantasy bits, but very few body’s to put them on, so was planning to make extras for personal use.
This stuff has been around in Japan for a while and I always find that using polyester putty or tamiya light curing putty or uv bondic type resin. Since its transparent light curing putty's are very nice to work with and get into all the corners without the worry of dry time. Good luck! Also for complicated molds throw some talc powder inside molds then, Blow it out leaving tiny film of powder this will help with pulling putty out and keeps mold together for duplicates
Tamiya makes some insanely useful modelling stuff. I just got the entire line of weathering powder and it has revolutionized my painting the same way washes did when they came out.
Heh, funny to see you hear. Love your videos man. Quick tip for everyone btw: using a hair dryer to make the blue stuff malleable is easier and quicker. For millput, mix it for 5 mins and let it sit for 10 to 20 mins, the milliput will be soft enough to press into the mold, but won't be too soft to break apart or leave too much residue/bits on the mold or hands. I heard about using a little bit of baby powder in the blue stuff molds to get better detail, but havent tried it yet.
I had a go with this stuff, and had trouble. The plastic stays soft for a very short time indeed. I used water that had just boiled, and when I took the soft plastic out, I had just a few seconds to make a mould, and it took four attempts to make my first one. Then, mixing the Milliput took quite a while, and then getting the putty into the far corners and undercuts of the mould was very difficult.
Hm... Maybe use a sculpting tool for the corners. As to the processing time, it depends on the actual temperature. Did you use a metal bowl? that sucks up a lot of thermal energy. Also, some people have more problems touching hot materials than others. I've seen People handle stuff without mittens that others would immediately drop.
A better way i have found is to buy two part liquid resin, the 1st part is to make a lego box, put half the (hot/warm) instant mould in the bottom jam it down hard, the press the part you want to make down into it. leave it in there. get the 2nd half hot, push it in on top. when it cools, pull them part, make a channel, mix up the resin, pour it in done. (test the volume 1st with water to work out the volume needed).
nah i dont think so. if you look at 12:35, you lose the majority of details, which can be easily spotted for the experienced eye, especially when its painted...
Extremely helpful tutorial! I got back into fantasy table-top gaming and the miniatures when the pandemic hit. I have several "odd lots" of boxes that contained incomplete or broken minis. I'm now using this method for making the missing pieces by molding a complete piece from an identical miniature. I've resurrected about 80 minis in a month that would have gone into the melting pot otherwise. Thanks sooo much for sharing!
I use a product called steel stick. It's used in plumbing repair. It's a two part epoxy and hardens in 5 min. You could pump out a 500 point army in 4hrs. Also they have this exact product from Japan. It's used as a clay substitute. It's called Oyumaru.
@@aliyaabdukadir2043 There are a number of two part epoxy sticks at auto parts and plumbing stores. What Cocked Die is referring to has steel powder in it for added strength in auto and plumbing repairs. JB Weld, Quick Weld, JB Quik and other names for basically the same products. I'm not sure how good any of them will be if you want to keep a lot of fine detail, but they're easier to find than pourable silicone for mold making.
@@Tanya_Von-Degurechaff probably not. I think steel powder epoxies have a max working temp that is below the melt temp of lead free pewter. You might get one or two casts of poor quality. Metal (pewter) will need high temp silicone.
@@Tanya_Von-Degurechaff look for tin cured silicone rubber. Mold Max 60 has a maximum working temp of 560F and pewter melts at about 500F. The minimum thickness of your mold walls should be 6mm or 1/4 inch at the thinnest place.
@@Tanya_Von-Degurechaff I don't know what to tell you. I looked on ebay for "pewter casting silicone" and had lots of results but I'm in the US. None of the options are inexpensive. If you can cast in plastic or resin (epoxy) you'll have a lot more options. Good luck
In over 40 years of model building that is the most amazing product I have ever seen. THAT is a game changer. I can't thank you enough for sharing this.
I used to think epoxy putty wasn't viable for making miniatures or action figures because it wasn't plastic, but when I see how well it works that doesn't matter to me anymore, and now I wanna try epoxy putty AND Blue Stuff! Thank you for sharing this. ^^
Thank you for posting this video. I saw customers hoping you would. A lot of reviews say this is difficult to get used to using, but seeing this video, I now understand that it is not a problem with the product as much as it is a problem with their unrealistic expectations and ability to follow instructions and use tools.
Protip for those difficult parts to cast (eg: necron immortal pair of legs) If you don't want to cut the original piece or try to make 3 part molds you can actually cover most of the details of the model with the blue stuff, once the cast is ready remove the piece and then fill it with milliput, wait for it to dry, retire the upper part (usually the one with less contact with the original piece), just immerse into water the other part of the mold, this will make it softer, allowing you to remove it far easier from fragile parts without damaging them. Of course after this the mold would end warped, but that's no problem, if you still need it just cast the part again, you will get to clone fragile parts such as necron legs, chaos spikes, etc. without having to resculpt them or paste the broken bits, actually saving time.
Greetings from Australia.This is a great tutorial. I have just ordered some Blue Stuff from Spain. This will make great molds for my fishing lure making hobby. Thank you for showing the qualities and characteristics of blue stuff. From my own experience of mold making, if you want to reduce the excess epoxy putty from forming 'flash' you could try making some excess sprue escape holes by pushing soft solder wire onto the blue stuff mold at strategic points when you form your mold. This will then give the excess epoxy putty somewhere to go when you force the two halves together. Soft solder will easily follow the uneven surface of the mold half. Regards Dave
This is great! Ive been playing 40k for about 2 years and I love Drukhari and want to start a Haemonculi Coven army but all of the Coven stuff is outlandishly expensive even by GW standards (with the exception of maybe the Talos kit) This will help me get Wracks up and running, thanks!
Doing the same for a knight themed guard army using Arbites body’s an heads, would love to hear how your army turned out, what resign or two part epoxy did you use?
Watching this video reminded me that I have some "Instant Mould" somewhere. I got it from a friend who ordered it from overseas, and I only ever used it once, to make a simple one-part Green Stuff casting. Worked well, if I recall.
I was looking at how to mold plastic for car parts and I think that this could work. I am amazed at how well this turned out. Using this you could make any simple small car part. Example: switch cover. Make an emblem to put on your hood. Or just some plastic washers. Anyway just keep what ever you are making out of the engine compartment and you should be fine
Been trying to get this product to work for some time. Small bits with super fine detail probably not what this product was intended for. Really liked the video, thanks for making it so professional.
@@jamesc8057 I use it for tyranids, it takes awhile to figure out the rough volume to make the piece cause too much will mess up the final product, its actually great
@@necrosisofphilosophy5247 I am very late and quite new to warhammer, but I want to make a tyranid army and reaching out to as many tyranid players as I can is a goal. Would you happen to know anything about making a winged conversion for the units? Do you have any recommendations?
@@Kodaiva my recommendation in 9th edition is monsters. The small troops are good but there are so many ways to take them off the board that having mostly monsters is best rn. Tyranid solders I never got any good results with them.
I've been using oyumaru for ages but never had much success with 2 part moulds. This method looks fantastic - thanks for the great video - I'll definitely give it a go!
I used the exact same epoxy putty and found it brittle/breaks easily for small or thin parts. For e.g. in the video you showed briefcases and rifles. Did you not have trouble with the briefcase handles and rifle barrels breaking? I broke my parts when I was removing flash with clippers. It makes me feel like if you ever dropped your miniature, the parts would break off.
Hi David, this is the first time i ever wrote a comment. This is the best ever instructional video i have come across. I am also into miniature collecting.
this is a godsend, I've been thinking of making molds for very small parts. this will be a lot easier than using resin and silicone. thanks david! I'll try this out soon.
This stuff is fantastic! Going to be getting merit's new 1/350 hms ark royal soon but was disappointed with how little aircraft are supplied with it, but this stuff will let me mould more planes for the carrier's air group! Thank you for showing this as it will help me soon :)
Christoff1996 on that same issue, im looking at scratch building a model of the planned HMS Habbakuk (the monster ice carrier) and wondered how i would get aircraft in 1/700 scale, now i just have to find a 1/700 B17 for me to cast
Another fantastic video from your self, the blue stuff looks like it will be another great product to add to the modellers tool kit. Keep up the good work David.
Awesome video mate. Seriously good job. If the blue stuff wasn't so hot when moldable, I would try and cast my own face. But miniatures will do for now, until I can be bothered working with plaster. Subscribed.
For realz! I have two missing turbo lasers on my old chaos battleship now well out of production, be real nice to be able to fabricate new ones and restore my old model for former glory!
Can you use epoxy resin with this? also, would a heat gun make it as soft and workable as hot water? because I think the water leftovers or moist may be a problem in the casting process
been using this stuff for a long time it's great and a cheap way of duplicating expensive models on a small budget I'd recommend Blue stuff for anyone who needs those extra arms and legs etc
How do you clean the blue stuff afterwards ? When I use Milliput with water there are some small residues on the blue stuf that stick a lot and I cannot wash it with warm water otherwise the blue stuff starts to melt and absorb the residues
Good stuff! This technique would be great for creating tabletop scenery that you need in bulk but don't want to have to buy loads of; crates, barrels, etc.
This is fantastic! It is a perfect tutorial and demonstrated a material I have never heard of and will prove incredibly useful for my handmade woodworking projects! Thanks so much!
I used this technik since 27 jears. I learned it at work - i'm a technik dentist. Whit this kind of dublikating i make many stuff by my own for low budget. It is very simple and usefull ... 8-)
I wonder, if you were to glue a toothpick on an inconspicuous area of the model like a sprue vent, would that give space for squishing excess putty off the model? I wonder if that would help with the excessive flash around the parts
I found it quite critical to get the right amount of epoxy putty in each part of the mould, otherwise the two parts don't go together properly. I used the Green Stuff World putty that came with the “Blue Stuff”. It seems a bit harder to work with than Milliput so I think I'll try that next time. So glad I got this.
Great Video. I have the clear stuff and I think it just takes a little time getting used to how to handle the stuff once it's moldable. It took me a couple tries but I managed to make an awesome mold. I will cast 20 items from this mold and then I will reheat for the next one. I like that it's reusable. I am using resin and UV resin which, so far, works great. The clear stuff is fabulous for UV resin. I make miniatures and love it. Thanks for sharing!
I could see this being used to replicate parts that you would rather not destroy through kit bashing. And it is the fastest way to figure out who is an elitist a-hole.
No this is the fastest way: "I just 3d scan each kit I buy and print the parts I need as I need them. Seriously dude, my army cost like, 245 total. Counting the printer and resin. You payed what... 500 bucks for those Orks? Lol." Seriously though, get a resin printer. Saves you so much cash.
how exactly do you get the epoputty to dry as hard as warhammer miniatures? whenever i do this, my molds shape it perfectly, but the epoputty itself always comes to an almost soapy texture. like it feels hard at first, but if you put any pressure whatsoever on it it crumbles. i am mixing it as evenly as possible, what could be the cause?
I use a mixture of 50% milliput and 50% greenstuff. Mix the greenstuff first, then the milliput and then mix them together. After it cures, the result is harder and less bendy than greenstuff but not nearly as brittle as milliput.
Either bad quality epoxy putty, improper mixing (not thorough enough or wrong proportions), old material or whatever you're using is not actually a two-part epo putty. A two-part epo putty contains the working material in one part and a hardener in the other - if thoroughly mixed, it has everything inside of it to make it harden and there should be little to no difference between the outside and inside. The effect you're describing is more common with air-dry materials or materials that use moisture in the air to advance the reaction (like type I silicone).
I bought this product and it is amazing! It works exactly as it does in the video. Some people have complained that it hardens too fast? Seriously how long do you need to make a mold? I think it works great! I would recommend it to anyone!
billyjimbobjr Maybe you're allergic? I've mixed and used at least 7 or 8 packs of the stuff so far without gloves and all it does is make my fingers raw (Rolling anything sticky in your fingers for hours will do that🚡)
I dono if im using it wrong but mine seems to be really stocky and after letting the first half coold down and set than make the top half of the molf, its a nightmare to get them apart and they deform on me. There is also always little bits stuck in whatever container I use to heat them up in. Plastic/glass and ceramics, it's the same story. brought 4 packs and have the same issue no matter what pack or how much I use. Tho for flat pices and icons etc, this stiff is amazing imo. I just havent had much luck with 2 part molds.
You can speed up the hardening of the Blue Stuff after taking your first cast, by putting it in the fridge for a while I have used similar casting products and have got good results, but I must try the two part method, thanks Plasmo..
the green stuff will work too for one side mold. If you will use two sided molds, then you'll have problems sometimes. I mean create a strong bond from both halves.
Thanks for this video man! I've been wanting to get into miniatures and customizing, but have had difficulty finding materials. This helps so much. Now I just need to learn how to paint
Hey man, I'm late to the party here but I wanted to let you know how greatful I am for this video. I was tired of having to buy Venomthrope kits just to build the Zoanthropes and have so many Venomthrope And Neurothrope bits leftover that I couldn't do anything with because I was short one or two bits felt like a real waste of money. Again, thank you.
I would definitely recommend the two part epoxy party, I tried with different combinations of milliput, green- and/or 'grey' stuff and it never quite sticks to the mold and I mostly just ended trying to squeeze it into corners, always with less than satisfying results. The epoxy party actually sticks to the mold and the final result isn't rubbery unlike greenstuff. I couldn't get it in my home country so I ordered from the Czech Republic.
I was curious about that as well so I got some and tested it. It seems to work perfectly well and is quite easy to use. It doesn't stick or react in any way and the casts are well defined. Not sure why it is was mentioned not to use 2 part resins.
Faku Gogle That's a good point about the heat but the type of parts featured are very small this shouldn't be an issue. If that is a concern then 2 part polyurethane resins work well with Oyumaru without the heat issue.
If it needs cooking hot water to be malleble again. It won't be a issue. Also the heat produced is a catalyst to speed up the proces, don't cool your molds unless you need the extra time or slightly smaller castings as cold makes things shrink. (Unless your name is water)
My guess is he's found it easier not to have to make the two-part molds with a sprue and making sure they didn't leak. Likely easier to avoid air bubbles as well since he doesn't seem to have a vacuum chamber. I see no reason why this wouldn't work with resin. What I'm really looking forward to is trying to use ABS slurry.
This is a great idea. I do metal casting and would like to try this to make wax patterns for lost wax casting. Is this product still available. A google search only shows a few suppliers that do not stock it any more. I am in the UK.
Sorry, don't know why the would ship to the US and not the UK. I ordered a bunch of stuff from them the past few years. Maybe if you send them a message or do a search on Amazon, Ebay or the web. Use search words "Instant Mold", "Blue Stuff" or "Oyumaru". I have used both, the blue stuff and Oyumaru. I like the blue stuff better, but I think they are the same thing. They are great for one sized molds, and good for two sided molds for small parts. I just started converting toy soldiers and this is a great way to change the way a figure looks by adding different weapons, helmets, shields or something else. Next I will be changing arms, heads and other parts that I make or clone. I have a blog page, if your interested. Good luck, Mike. warhorseminiatures.com/
Yes they seem to have something against the UK, shipping is to lots of other countries. I have been trying moulds made with silicone sealer, corn flour and sunflower oil and it works very well for one and two part moulds.
Part of that is down to the method. The blue putty still looked wet during its molding, capturing some water, and the user was going pretty quickly with the epoxy, which itself seemed to be a bit thick for fine detail. I think this stuff did pretty well, for basically being high-temp silly putty.
A lot of TLC and a fair bit of luck is required to get even some of the finer detail to transfer over.. don't expect it to be a perfect (or even close) mirror of the original piece being molded. They will almost always look like they have a really thick coat of primer on them :p
Just ordered some! Any idea if this stuff would stand up to pouring hot pewter into it? I do some pewter casting using a number of different mold materials. Wondering if this stuff would burn if exposed to those high temperatures? Pewter cools and hardens very quickly, almost instantly, so I wouldn't be too worried about the material softening before it has a chance to harden, you may just have to remake the mold for each pour.
looks really interesting, and looks like it works really well, would love to be able to duplicate expensive aftermarket. as always Keep up the good work! thanks
I think it would be perfect for recasting 90’s GW plastic miniatures from warhammer quest, talisman third edition and warhammer fantasy battle as their detail is lacklustre as plastic casting wasn’t that advanced back than so this stuff could perfectly capture it and in warhammer quest you can never have enough monsters like night goblins so this would help as right now plastic GW's from the 90’s are expensive and I own a couple but not many and I don’t want to fork up a fortune to get more.
Patrick Gnoblar actually it works very well at picking up small details. It picked up a fingerprint (oil) on a flat spot on a part. At first I was annoyed, but then I realized how well it worked. It picked up small file marks, finger prints, knife marks, and mold lines that had been smoothed down. It works very well for mold making.
Earl Bernie that’s interesting, so you are telling me that this stuff could copy detailed models perfectly where do you think it caps out on detail? On a scale from LEGO mini-figure to forgeworld greater daemon where does this stuff cap out on what it can capture in the mold? I assume that it can do modern GWs if it can do fingerprints and knife marks but I am having trouble imagining this doing forgeworlds newer models. Either way I am still going to copy that one chaos dwarf I got from talisman third editions city expansion and slowly copy enough of them (and modify them) to have a large AoS army. But let’s say I want a forgeworld daemonsmith for my chaos dwarfs could I copy that high detail model?
Patrick Gnoblar imgur.com/gallery/MfTIDeL here is a custom Avatar I did. The shoulder pad was done with oyumaru. The blade that is coming out had my finger print in it, so I filed it down. I did this with green stuff and a wire inside it while it was setting up to support it. As long as you take your time (yeah I know it's not a lot of time) and make sure you press the oyumaru into the model, it will copy the detail.
Do You think it's possible to cast an 1/72 ejection seat? Any advice for they mould? Left and right? Seat and backseat? Onc pice mould? Thanks. Greetings from Mexico
Have you tried the paint on rubber silicone from hobby stores? I use this to paint directly over a part it causes no damage to parts I normally paint on a thick layer first then build up about 7 thin layers, it takes about an hour to completely dry and turn to really strong flexible rubber and I use a simple cheap car body fiberglass kit only using the resin and harner from the fibreglass kit and pour in the mould! It takes about ten mins to completely cure and you can take of any flash from over spill the detail is just amazing it picks out everything being a thin resin liquid! I wont use anything else but this now and 1 ltr iv had for about 7 years now and use it alot and for 18 bucks it's well worth it! J did hesitate at time I remember when saw price but got it anyway a d its lasted this long! I'm very happy and it's an own brand from hobbycraft in uk but sure you would get other types
That BIG orange 'X' on the epoxy casing... I am pretty sure that it means either or both: "Do wear gloves when handling this!" "Do protect your breath, with a mask!" Atleast i *know* that the 'X' does *not* mean: "This has no health-risk what so ever..." *Read* and follow the instructions!!
it means it could be irritating to mucus membranes and skin, however most kneadable stuff is safe for skin, don't stick it up your nose but or in your eyes I guess.
@@gerbenvanessen no it's not safe for skin. There are aggressive fat soluble toxic molecules in it that easily pass the skinny barrier. I'm too lazy now, but you can look it up on Google. Never use that stuff without proper protection!
@@SelectedPeppa Did you know that breathing air outside allows all sorts of parasitical microbes into your lungs that might do irreparable damage to your lungs? Better wear a full respirator and enviro-sealed suit at all times, who knows what kind of dangerous things are in the air. Even better, just don't leave the house!
Ghorda9 if you can't sculpt it you can also use carving tools!:D it carves veryyyy nicely. Of course with thinner/smaller parts you'll have to be more careful to not break them.
Is it perhaps better to use an alginate for character work? Alginate is not reuseable but it's a liquid, can be painted into details and can capture every pore in skin. The detail capture is a lot higher than thermoplastic molding can achieve. It also de-molds much nicer as it is very elastic. Blue-Stuff looks like it can deform soft parts, as force is needed to mold the material around the part. It also looks like it cannot deal with complex shapes. Alginates flow well around complex parts, large parts of the model can be pulled out of small holes due to elasticity... and the mold can be cut open (and keyed) with a scalpel quite easily. You can then cast white-plaster, polymer-modified gypsum, fast urethane resin or various silicones... depending on whether you want stone-like, plastic-like, hard rubber-like or soft rubber-like parts. All the Blue-Stuff and Oyumaru work I've seen seems to be poor at capturing texture detail, seems difficult to key properly and leaves a lot of 'flash' where the halves of the mold join. I'm not saying that Blue Stuff is bad. It definitely has some uses. But for characters I think detail and texture is more important than for hardware items like shields or machines.
Love the detailed explanation, showing us every step of the way.
Even 4 years later you are still helping people getting into the hobby.
even eight years later
Oh, this looks incredible! I recently ordered a very rare unreleased toy that is missing a few components that most fortunately have duplicates (the same piece six times but missing two), and everything I've been looking at is prohibitively expensive (several hundred USD). The fidelity of the minis you made with this tutorial are incredible and I think more than sufficient for what I'm doing, and evidently I can get an entire setup for like $25 USD. I'm going to try it; wish me luck! Thank you for posting this!
UPDATE: it worked perfectly! This stuff is basically a miracle product and cut a $200-$400 repair down to only $30! 11/10 would recommend to any sort of toy repair
Just out of curiosity, what material did you fill the mold with? A two part epoxy from a hardware store, or something else? Great to hear someone had such good results! I got a ton of fantasy bits, but very few body’s to put them on, so was planning to make extras for personal use.
This stuff has been around in Japan for a while and I always find that using polyester putty or tamiya light curing putty or uv bondic type resin. Since its transparent light curing putty's are very nice to work with and get into all the corners without the worry of dry time. Good luck! Also for complicated molds throw some talc powder inside molds then, Blow it out leaving tiny film of powder this will help with pulling putty out and keeps mold together for duplicates
Tamiya makes some insanely useful modelling stuff. I just got the entire line of weathering powder and it has revolutionized my painting the same way washes did when they came out.
Tamiya are God's!
This may be useful as I tend to break parts on my model kits while painting.
Heh, funny to see you hear. Love your videos man.
Quick tip for everyone btw: using a hair dryer to make the blue stuff malleable is easier and quicker. For millput, mix it for 5 mins and let it sit for 10 to 20 mins, the milliput will be soft enough to press into the mold, but won't be too soft to break apart or leave too much residue/bits on the mold or hands. I heard about using a little bit of baby powder in the blue stuff molds to get better detail, but havent tried it yet.
How did you break them while painting???
Papa Gundam is here!
Oh daddy Gundum. He models big robots just like me OwO.
Notice me daddy UwU
Eyyy keep modeling buddy
I had a go with this stuff, and had trouble. The plastic stays soft for a very short time indeed. I used water that had just boiled, and when I took the soft plastic out, I had just a few seconds to make a mould, and it took four attempts to make my first one. Then, mixing the Milliput took quite a while, and then getting the putty into the far corners and undercuts of the mould was very difficult.
seeing your comment was a pleasant surprise :D love your videos good sir!
Lindybeige could you use a hair dryer to keep the blue stuff manageable ?just a thought
Hm... Maybe use a sculpting tool for the corners. As to the processing time, it depends on the actual temperature. Did you use a metal bowl? that sucks up a lot of thermal energy. Also, some people have more problems touching hot materials than others. I've seen People handle stuff without mittens that others would immediately drop.
A better way i have found is to buy two part liquid resin, the 1st part is to make a lego box, put half the (hot/warm) instant mould in the bottom jam it down hard, the press the part you want to make down into it. leave it in there. get the 2nd half hot, push it in on top. when it cools, pull them part, make a channel, mix up the resin, pour it in done. (test the volume 1st with water to work out the volume needed).
Haha I just watched one of your videos before watching this. And I had just ordered some blue stuff. Hope I have better luck!
Games Workshop hates this video.
nah i dont think so. if you look at 12:35, you lose the majority of details, which can be easily spotted for the experienced eye, especially when its painted...
they downvoted it over 400 times
@@J.P.Satrio haha don't need a experienced eye too see that their is no detailing within the hole parts on the arm
Good, those greedy bastards...
Its ok for bits but it is stupid to make a whole miniatures cause your fav game will fall
Extremely helpful tutorial! I got back into fantasy table-top gaming and the miniatures when the pandemic hit. I have several "odd lots" of boxes that contained incomplete or broken minis. I'm now using this method for making the missing pieces by molding a complete piece from an identical miniature. I've resurrected about 80 minis in a month that would have gone into the melting pot otherwise. Thanks sooo much for sharing!
I use a product called steel stick. It's used in plumbing repair. It's a two part epoxy and hardens in 5 min. You could pump out a 500 point army in 4hrs.
Also they have this exact product from Japan. It's used as a clay substitute. It's called Oyumaru.
The Cocked Die steel stick?
@@aliyaabdukadir2043 There are a number of two part epoxy sticks at auto parts and plumbing stores. What Cocked Die is referring to has steel powder in it for added strength in auto and plumbing repairs. JB Weld, Quick Weld, JB Quik and other names for basically the same products. I'm not sure how good any of them will be if you want to keep a lot of fine detail, but they're easier to find than pourable silicone for mold making.
@@Tanya_Von-Degurechaff probably not. I think steel powder epoxies have a max working temp that is below the melt temp of lead free pewter. You might get one or two casts of poor quality. Metal (pewter) will need high temp silicone.
@@Tanya_Von-Degurechaff look for tin cured silicone rubber. Mold Max 60 has a maximum working temp of 560F and pewter melts at about 500F. The minimum thickness of your mold walls should be 6mm or 1/4 inch at the thinnest place.
@@Tanya_Von-Degurechaff I don't know what to tell you. I looked on ebay for "pewter casting silicone" and had lots of results but I'm in the US. None of the options are inexpensive. If you can cast in plastic or resin (epoxy) you'll have a lot more options. Good luck
My dude, you've saved me a lot of hassle. I've been after such a product for years at this point and seeing how easy it is, I'm impressed
In over 40 years of model building that is the most amazing product I have ever seen. THAT is a game changer. I can't thank you enough for sharing this.
Just bought some. No idea what I'm going to cast yet, but you've convinced me I need it! ;-)
'bumpy' miniature bases that you ran out of is a great starting point
Clone some havocs! Maybe the reaper chain cannon....
I used to think epoxy putty wasn't viable for making miniatures or action figures because it wasn't plastic, but when I see how well it works that doesn't matter to me anymore, and now I wanna try epoxy putty AND Blue Stuff! Thank you for sharing this. ^^
I've been looking for a molding method like this for decades. Amazingly easy too with no sticky mess.
Thank you for posting this video. I saw customers hoping you would. A lot of reviews say this is difficult to get used to using, but seeing this video, I now understand that it is not a problem with the product as much as it is a problem with their unrealistic expectations and ability to follow instructions and use tools.
Protip for those difficult parts to cast (eg: necron immortal pair of legs)
If you don't want to cut the original piece or try to make 3 part molds you can actually cover most of the details of the model with the blue stuff, once the cast is ready remove the piece and then fill it with milliput, wait for it to dry, retire the upper part (usually the one with less contact with the original piece), just immerse into water the other part of the mold, this will make it softer, allowing you to remove it far easier from fragile parts without damaging them.
Of course after this the mold would end warped, but that's no problem, if you still need it just cast the part again, you will get to clone fragile parts such as necron legs, chaos spikes, etc. without having to resculpt them or paste the broken bits, actually saving time.
Greetings from Australia.This is a great tutorial. I have just ordered some Blue Stuff from Spain. This will make great molds for my fishing lure making hobby. Thank you for showing the qualities and characteristics of blue stuff. From my own experience of mold making, if you want to reduce the excess epoxy putty from forming 'flash' you could try making some excess sprue escape holes by pushing soft solder wire onto the blue stuff mold at strategic points when you form your mold. This will then give the excess epoxy putty somewhere to go when you force the two halves together. Soft solder will easily follow the uneven surface of the mold half.
Regards Dave
In the future, for Australians it is probably easier to get some Oyumaru from japan, it is the same type of molding material
The most epic water boiling scene I’ve ever seen
Twas lit, my good sir
Even better was the pouring of the boiling water.
Boiling water was interesting, yes
I've been using these sticks for 15 years now. Incredibly convenient. And it works with resin epoxy too.
This is great! Ive been playing 40k for about 2 years and I love Drukhari and want to start a Haemonculi Coven army but all of the Coven stuff is outlandishly expensive even by GW standards (with the exception of maybe the Talos kit) This will help me get Wracks up and running, thanks!
Based
Doing the same for a knight themed guard army using Arbites body’s an heads, would love to hear how your army turned out, what resign or two part epoxy did you use?
Watching this video reminded me that I have some "Instant Mould" somewhere. I got it from a friend who ordered it from overseas, and I only ever used it once, to make a simple one-part Green Stuff casting. Worked well, if I recall.
That stuff looks incredible. Thanks for the info Plasmo.
I was looking at how to mold plastic for car parts and I think that this could work. I am amazed at how well this turned out. Using this you could make any simple small car part. Example: switch cover. Make an emblem to put on your hood. Or just some plastic washers. Anyway just keep what ever you are making out of the engine compartment and you should be fine
i'll probably never use this in my life but I just watch the whole video
Same
Same for the first phrase, and a nice video it is.
what the hell happened here
:D
Been trying to get this product to work for some time. Small bits with super fine detail probably not what this product was intended for. Really liked the video, thanks for making it so professional.
I NEVER HAVE TO BUY THUNDER HAMMERS AGAIN THANK YOU SOME MUCH.
The social spoon have you tried it? Is it good?
The social spoon Yup. I'm curious how did you end up as well. Did you save some money and made FW livid?
@@jamesc8057 I use it for tyranids, it takes awhile to figure out the rough volume to make the piece cause too much will mess up the final product, its actually great
@@necrosisofphilosophy5247 I am very late and quite new to warhammer, but I want to make a tyranid army and reaching out to as many tyranid players as I can is a goal. Would you happen to know anything about making a winged conversion for the units? Do you have any recommendations?
@@Kodaiva my recommendation in 9th edition is monsters. The small troops are good but there are so many ways to take them off the board that having mostly monsters is best rn. Tyranid solders I never got any good results with them.
I've been using oyumaru for ages but never had much success with 2 part moulds. This method looks fantastic - thanks for the great video - I'll definitely give it a go!
I used the exact same epoxy putty and found it brittle/breaks easily for small or thin parts. For e.g. in the video you showed briefcases and rifles. Did you not have trouble with the briefcase handles and rifle barrels breaking? I broke my parts when I was removing flash with clippers. It makes me feel like if you ever dropped your miniature, the parts would break off.
Hi David, this is the first time i ever wrote a comment. This is the best ever instructional video i have come across. I am also into miniature collecting.
this is a godsend, I've been thinking of making molds for very small parts. this will be a lot easier than using resin and silicone. thanks david! I'll try this out soon.
Interesting !, Thanks for that.
This stuff is fantastic! Going to be getting merit's new 1/350 hms ark royal soon but was disappointed with how little aircraft are supplied with it, but this stuff will let me mould more planes for the carrier's air group! Thank you for showing this as it will help me soon :)
Christoff1996 on that same issue, im looking at scratch building a model of the planned HMS Habbakuk (the monster ice carrier) and wondered how i would get aircraft in 1/700 scale, now i just have to find a 1/700 B17 for me to cast
Another fantastic video from your self, the blue stuff looks like it will be another great product to add to the modellers tool kit. Keep up the good work David.
Awesome video mate. Seriously good job. If the blue stuff wasn't so hot when moldable, I would try and cast my own face.
But miniatures will do for now, until I can be bothered working with plaster.
Subscribed.
"WOW" I have just purchased this BlueStuff after seeing this and I cant wait to have a go. Thank you for posting this video PLASMO dude
How it came out? Do you recommend this?
5:19 "But wait"; amazing advice. This is what I couldn't figure out, going over it in my head. Excellent video matey!
Now I can finally make the missing backpacks for my Stormtrooper Guardsmen :)
For realz! I have two missing turbo lasers on my old chaos battleship now well out of production, be real nice to be able to fabricate new ones and restore my old model for former glory!
The very reason why I have ordered some of this stuff. OOP Kasrkin backpacks.
ABSOLUTELY AWESOME !!!! Thank you very much for sharing your tips. Keep yourself, family, and friends safe and healthy.
*Epic music plays while boiling water in electric kettle* THAT'S THE GOOD STUFF! xD
Great video, seriously! Have your thumbs up!
And then the ass-stabbing ukelele/xylophone crap starts up just as the more interresting part begins. UGH.
Can you use epoxy resin with this? also, would a heat gun make it as soft and workable as hot water? because I think the water leftovers or moist may be a problem in the casting process
a very good tutorial Sir I am amazed at the simplicity of this product
been using this stuff for a long time it's great and a cheap way of duplicating expensive models on a small budget I'd recommend Blue stuff for anyone who needs those extra arms and legs etc
well some of the details will be lost but to fast fix a missing part (one pair of legs are missing for exemple) this seems perfect
First found your site when making and painting models, now found this film it was just what i was looking for thank you and keep up the good work.
Thanks David. Appreciate the time in making this video. Would like to see you doing a motorcycle build.
How do you clean the blue stuff afterwards ? When I use Milliput with water there are some small residues on the blue stuf that stick a lot and I cannot wash it with warm water otherwise the blue stuff starts to melt and absorb the residues
"I put in on to boil." EPIC MUSIIIICCCC!!!!!!
I love the music at the start. Makes it feel like you are teaching us how to forge the Ring of Power
Good stuff! This technique would be great for creating tabletop scenery that you need in bulk but don't want to have to buy loads of; crates, barrels, etc.
Not sure if it’s in comments somewhere way down but a heat gun works to soften it also. Great for touch up pushes if it starts firming up.
Great video David, looks like a really good method of making extra parts !!
This is fantastic! It is a perfect tutorial and demonstrated a material I have never heard of and will prove incredibly useful for my handmade woodworking projects! Thanks so much!
I used this technik since 27 jears.
I learned it at work - i'm a technik dentist.
Whit this kind of dublikating i make many stuff by my own for low budget.
It is very simple and usefull ... 8-)
I wonder, if you were to glue a toothpick on an inconspicuous area of the model like a sprue vent, would that give space for squishing excess putty off the model? I wonder if that would help with the excessive flash around the parts
Your kettle needs a jolly good clean..................
Raymond Ashby
That's a lot of full stops
Ore wa!!!!!!
Chin Chin The Dark Lord ORE WA
limescale is a pain to clean
I guess its kettle only for projects like this
I found it quite critical to get the right amount of epoxy putty in each part of the mould, otherwise the two parts don't go together properly. I used the Green Stuff World putty that came with the “Blue Stuff”. It seems a bit harder to work with than Milliput so I think I'll try that next time. So glad I got this.
oh man I wanted to start a primaris space wolves army, this will be great for cloning all the details off the grey hunters and blood claws.
When making your molds, would it be possible to use a blow dryer set on Low to blow on the Blue Stuff to increase the working time?
All that water trapped in when setting it will lead to.lower fidelity. You really need to dab it dry first
I agree. It's instinctive to know to pat it dry.
this is fantastic and thanks for showing us.
Hopefully we have this BLUE STUFF in Australia.
it's juste AMAZING!! I discovered blue stuff watching your vidéo. thanks for the tip. it's cheap, easy to use, what else?!!
Great Video. I have the clear stuff and I think it just takes a little time getting used to how to handle the stuff once it's moldable. It took me a couple tries but I managed to make an awesome mold. I will cast 20 items from this mold and then I will reheat for the next one. I like that it's reusable. I am using resin and UV resin which, so far, works great. The clear stuff is fabulous for UV resin. I make miniatures and love it. Thanks for sharing!
I turn up the sound so I can hear you then the music comes on and blast my ears.
Thank you for an amazing tutorial. I learn from you every time you speak. I subbed just recently (maybe one week) and I am hooked
I could see this being used to replicate parts that you would rather not destroy through kit bashing. And it is the fastest way to figure out who is an elitist a-hole.
For me it would be making extra parts you don't receive enough of (Bolt Action Player, you only get FOUR Springfield rifles for a box of 30 figures.)
The fuck?!
@@RockSplitter You get plenty of weapons, but most of those are M1 Garands, M1 Carbines, and Thompson SMGs, i want a force with mostly Springfields.
No this is the fastest way: "I just 3d scan each kit I buy and print the parts I need as I need them. Seriously dude, my army cost like, 245 total. Counting the printer and resin. You payed what... 500 bucks for those Orks? Lol." Seriously though, get a resin printer. Saves you so much cash.
@@MeepChangeling what do you use for 3D scanning, and do you need to do any cleanup after scanning?
What do you use for a primer on the epoxy putty? Or will paint stick without priming. Thanks so much for posting this!
You’re right, this one is a better version! Thanks again!
GAME CHANGER FOR MAKING OUR OWN PARTS! 🙏 THANK YOU
how exactly do you get the epoputty to dry as hard as warhammer miniatures? whenever i do this, my molds shape it perfectly, but the epoputty itself always comes to an almost soapy texture. like it feels hard at first, but if you put any pressure whatsoever on it it crumbles. i am mixing it as evenly as possible, what could be the cause?
I am having the same problem, I am wondering if there's a big difference between brands.
I'm using Milliput and it's real fragile.
Bumbling Brit throw it in the freezer for Abit.
I use a mixture of 50% milliput and 50% greenstuff. Mix the greenstuff first, then the milliput and then mix them together. After it cures, the result is harder and less bendy than greenstuff but not nearly as brittle as milliput.
Either bad quality epoxy putty, improper mixing (not thorough enough or wrong proportions), old material or whatever you're using is not actually a two-part epo putty. A two-part epo putty contains the working material in one part and a hardener in the other - if thoroughly mixed, it has everything inside of it to make it harden and there should be little to no difference between the outside and inside. The effect you're describing is more common with air-dry materials or materials that use moisture in the air to advance the reaction (like type I silicone).
I bought this product and it is amazing! It works exactly as it does in the video. Some people have complained that it hardens too fast? Seriously how long do you need to make a mold? I think it works great! I would recommend it to anyone!
Hi Jon what is the best hard material to use? I want to cast horses.
@@marcoromao4275I use milliput yellow for making Ork boyz. But the best product is Green Stuff, although it is more expensive.
The 'X' on the Epo Putty means you better put on some gloves.
This is good to know, i went off useing epoxy putty after it made the webbing of my fingers blister and my eyes go all puffy .
billyjimbobjr I'd advise not trying to take copies of your eyes using this method. ;-p
billyjimbobjr Maybe you're allergic? I've mixed and used at least 7 or 8 packs of the stuff so far without gloves and all it does is make my fingers raw (Rolling anything sticky in your fingers for hours will do that🚡)
aww dang, you might be right. i should maybe get tested.
you have webbed fingers?
Blue stuff and resin: a godlike substance for building an army of plastic models
I dono if im using it wrong but mine seems to be really stocky and after letting the first half coold down and set than make the top half of the molf, its a nightmare to get them apart and they deform on me.
There is also always little bits stuck in whatever container I use to heat them up in.
Plastic/glass and ceramics, it's the same story.
brought 4 packs and have the same issue no matter what pack or how much I use.
Tho for flat pices and icons etc, this stiff is amazing imo.
I just havent had much luck with 2 part molds.
right now I'm sold on the blue stuff for doing individual tank track links any tips lol
You can speed up the hardening of the Blue Stuff after taking your first cast, by putting it in the fridge for a while I have used similar casting products and have got good results, but I must try the two part method, thanks Plasmo..
Seems great but how well would it work if I put green stuff in the moulds?
the green stuff will work too for one side mold. If you will use two sided molds, then you'll have problems sometimes. I mean create a strong bond from both halves.
@@idaemonplasmo glue
Thanks for this video man! I've been wanting to get into miniatures and customizing, but have had difficulty finding materials. This helps so much. Now I just need to learn how to paint
Hey man, I'm late to the party here but I wanted to let you know how greatful I am for this video.
I was tired of having to buy Venomthrope kits just to build the Zoanthropes and have so many Venomthrope And Neurothrope bits leftover that I couldn't do anything with because I was short one or two bits felt like a real waste of money.
Again, thank you.
Were you successful making the bits of the thropes?
For the most part yes, the tail took a few tries but I have successful copies!
I would definitely recommend the two part epoxy party, I tried with different combinations of milliput, green- and/or 'grey' stuff and it never quite sticks to the mold and I mostly just ended trying to squeeze it into corners, always with less than satisfying results. The epoxy party actually sticks to the mold and the final result isn't rubbery unlike greenstuff. I couldn't get it in my home country so I ordered from the Czech Republic.
Is there any reason you can't use the liquid resin with the blue stuff?
I was curious about that as well so I got some and tested it. It seems to work perfectly well and is quite easy to use. It doesn't stick or react in any way and the casts are well defined. Not sure why it is was mentioned not to use 2 part resins.
Rugnineteen Often two part resins (especially epoxy resin) become hot while curing. Big amounts of epoxy resin might melt the blue stuff.
Faku Gogle That's a good point about the heat but the type of parts featured are very small this shouldn't be an issue. If that is a concern then 2 part polyurethane resins work well with Oyumaru without the heat issue.
If it needs cooking hot water to be malleble again. It won't be a issue. Also the heat produced is a catalyst to speed up the proces, don't cool your molds unless you need the extra time or slightly smaller castings as cold makes things shrink. (Unless your name is water)
My guess is he's found it easier not to have to make the two-part molds with a sprue and making sure they didn't leak. Likely easier to avoid air bubbles as well since he doesn't seem to have a vacuum chamber. I see no reason why this wouldn't work with resin. What I'm really looking forward to is trying to use ABS slurry.
Wow! That blue stuff is amazing!
This is a great idea. I do metal casting and would like to try this to make wax patterns for lost wax casting. Is this product still available. A google search only shows a few suppliers that do not stock it any more. I am in the UK.
look for Polycaprolactone (PCL) on aliexpress.
www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Stuff-8bars-Make-reusables-instant-mold-Warhammer-40k-OOAK-doll-reborn-/281141641334?hash=item4175590076:g:NccAAOSwpDdVcfyd
Does not ship to UK, where I live.
Sorry, don't know why the would ship to the US and not the UK. I ordered a bunch of stuff from them the past few years. Maybe if you send them a message or do a search on Amazon, Ebay or the web. Use search words "Instant Mold", "Blue Stuff" or "Oyumaru". I have used both, the blue stuff and Oyumaru. I like the blue stuff better, but I think they are the same thing. They are great for one sized molds, and good for two sided molds for small parts. I just started converting toy soldiers and this is a great way to change the way a figure looks by adding different weapons, helmets, shields or something else. Next I will be changing arms, heads and other parts that I make or clone. I have a blog page, if your interested. Good luck, Mike.
warhorseminiatures.com/
Yes they seem to have something against the UK, shipping is to lots of other countries.
I have been trying moulds made with silicone sealer, corn flour and sunflower oil and it works very well for one and two part moulds.
Genius!!!! Thanks for this. Part 36 is no longer missing from my kit!
It doesn't look like it captures detail very well.
Part of that is down to the method. The blue putty still looked wet during its molding, capturing some water, and the user was going pretty quickly with the epoxy, which itself seemed to be a bit thick for fine detail. I think this stuff did pretty well, for basically being high-temp silly putty.
A lot of TLC and a fair bit of luck is required to get even some of the finer detail to transfer over.. don't expect it to be a perfect (or even close) mirror of the original piece being molded. They will almost always look like they have a really thick coat of primer on them :p
@@ARescueToaster There are a few videos that show this getting a high level of detail on other channels.
@@darkstorminc I'll have to check those out! I imagine it's not easy to do, though?
@@ARescueToaster iirc you will need to have a mold box for best results. Some recommend using legos which I think would work out well.
Just ordered some! Any idea if this stuff would stand up to pouring hot pewter into it? I do some pewter casting using a number of different mold materials. Wondering if this stuff would burn if exposed to those high temperatures? Pewter cools and hardens very quickly, almost instantly, so I wouldn't be too worried about the material softening before it has a chance to harden, you may just have to remake the mold for each pour.
ry412934 pewter is going to be to hot for that type of application.
That's exactly the thing I've been looking for.
Thanks David :)
Thank you for this video. Did you say that you cannot use Green Stuff for two part molds because they don't stick together?
looks really interesting, and looks like it works really well, would love to be able to duplicate expensive aftermarket.
as always Keep up the good work!
thanks
How brittle is the epoxy putty? If it's supple/durable enough, I may use this as a finalizing stage for my 3D printed models.
YOU sir, are the BOMB! Thanks for posting, I'll probably be using this!
hi, tell me please, how do you then clean Blue Stuff from the remnants of putty?
Bravo! The only disadvantage I can see is that your detail becomes soft below half a millimetre or so...
I think it would be perfect for recasting 90’s GW plastic miniatures from warhammer quest, talisman third edition and warhammer fantasy battle as their detail is lacklustre as plastic casting wasn’t that advanced back than so this stuff could perfectly capture it and in warhammer quest you can never have enough monsters like night goblins so this would help as right now plastic GW's from the 90’s are expensive and I own a couple but not many and I don’t want to fork up a fortune to get more.
Patrick Gnoblar actually it works very well at picking up small details. It picked up a fingerprint (oil) on a flat spot on a part. At first I was annoyed, but then I realized how well it worked. It picked up small file marks, finger prints, knife marks, and mold lines that had been smoothed down. It works very well for mold making.
Earl Bernie that’s interesting, so you are telling me that this stuff could copy detailed models perfectly where do you think it caps out on detail? On a scale from LEGO mini-figure to forgeworld greater daemon where does this stuff cap out on what it can capture in the mold? I assume that it can do modern GWs if it can do fingerprints and knife marks but I am having trouble imagining this doing forgeworlds newer models. Either way I am still going to copy that one chaos dwarf I got from talisman third editions city expansion and slowly copy enough of them (and modify them) to have a large AoS army. But let’s say I want a forgeworld daemonsmith for my chaos dwarfs could I copy that high detail model?
Patrick Gnoblar imgur.com/gallery/MfTIDeL here is a custom Avatar I did. The shoulder pad was done with oyumaru. The blade that is coming out had my finger print in it, so I filed it down. I did this with green stuff and a wire inside it while it was setting up to support it. As long as you take your time (yeah I know it's not a lot of time) and make sure you press the oyumaru into the model, it will copy the detail.
Patrick Gnoblar imgur.com/gallery/bxpGLSG sorry for the other potato pic. Here is a close up of it.
Do You think it's possible to cast an 1/72 ejection seat?
Any advice for they mould? Left and right? Seat and backseat? Onc pice mould? Thanks. Greetings from Mexico
There's a rather dramatic loss of detail. But this would be a pretty good technique for fairly simple pieces (like the armor plates).
Then you did it wrong, it replicates intricate detail surprisingly well
@@funoff3207 I'm referring to the examples shown in the video.
Have you tried the paint on rubber silicone from hobby stores? I use this to paint directly over a part it causes no damage to parts I normally paint on a thick layer first then build up about 7 thin layers, it takes about an hour to completely dry and turn to really strong flexible rubber and I use a simple cheap car body fiberglass kit only using the resin and harner from the fibreglass kit and pour in the mould! It takes about ten mins to completely cure and you can take of any flash from over spill the detail is just amazing it picks out everything being a thin resin liquid! I wont use anything else but this now and 1 ltr iv had for about 7 years now and use it alot and for 18 bucks it's well worth it! J did hesitate at time I remember when saw price but got it anyway a d its lasted this long! I'm very happy and it's an own brand from hobbycraft in uk but sure you would get other types
That's a great tutorial. Now to see if that stuff is available in my country :-)
Steve Watts gave us info that Blue Stuff is same like Japanese Oyumaru. You can look for it.
@@idaemonplasmo Can you buy it in the UK?
Nice video, what glue did you use to stick the milliput pieces together?
That BIG orange 'X' on the epoxy casing...
I am pretty sure that it means either or both:
"Do wear gloves when handling this!"
"Do protect your breath, with a mask!"
Atleast i *know* that the 'X' does *not* mean:
"This has no health-risk what so ever..."
*Read* and follow the instructions!!
it means it could be irritating to mucus membranes and skin, however most kneadable stuff is safe for skin, don't stick it up your nose but or in your eyes I guess.
@@gerbenvanessen no it's not safe for skin. There are aggressive fat soluble toxic molecules in it that easily pass the skinny barrier. I'm too lazy now, but you can look it up on Google. Never use that stuff without proper protection!
@@SelectedPeppa Did you know that breathing air outside allows all sorts of parasitical microbes into your lungs that might do irreparable damage to your lungs? Better wear a full respirator and enviro-sealed suit at all times, who knows what kind of dangerous things are in the air. Even better, just don't leave the house!
hello. great video. does this casting take gold spray paint? thank you
looks like you lose some detail but for making a few parts, this stuff might work pretty well
you can re sculpt the detail if the epoxy allows it
Ghorda9 if you can't sculpt it you can also use carving tools!:D it carves veryyyy nicely. Of course with thinner/smaller parts you'll have to be more careful to not break them.
Is it perhaps better to use an alginate for character work?
Alginate is not reuseable but it's a liquid, can be painted into details and can capture every pore in skin. The detail capture is a lot higher than thermoplastic molding can achieve. It also de-molds much nicer as it is very elastic.
Blue-Stuff looks like it can deform soft parts, as force is needed to mold the material around the part. It also looks like it cannot deal with complex shapes. Alginates flow well around complex parts, large parts of the model can be pulled out of small holes due to elasticity... and the mold can be cut open (and keyed) with a scalpel quite easily.
You can then cast white-plaster, polymer-modified gypsum, fast urethane resin or various silicones... depending on whether you want stone-like, plastic-like, hard rubber-like or soft rubber-like parts.
All the Blue-Stuff and Oyumaru work I've seen seems to be poor at capturing texture detail, seems difficult to key properly and leaves a lot of 'flash' where the halves of the mold join.
I'm not saying that Blue Stuff is bad. It definitely has some uses. But for characters I think detail and texture is more important than for hardware items like shields or machines.
Now I can start my new pirate figures replicas business!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YEAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!