How to Build a Pergola Attached to Your House | Mitre 10 Easy As DIY
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- A pergola that is attached to your house can be a great addition; it’s a good way to create a useful sheltered outdoor area and give you shade from the sun. It will also add to the visual appeal of your house. See how to do it yourself with Mitre 10.
See the full guide here:
www.mitre10.co...
Just bought a new home, and you are officially my new favourite person 🙂
"Joist hangers look absolutely terrible" - well said! Very good video, best I've seen on the subject; great workmanship. Greetings from across the ditch.
Decorative mechanical fixtures can add to the finished product. Black powder coated hangers would look sharp.
Could have just used white hammerite on them. So much easier.
Excellent video! Clear, concise, and simple to follow. THANK YOU!
Thanks so much for the support Kelly 🙌 ^Cam
Well done brotha, cheers from NYC 🔨‼️
This guy is an awesome builder
Thank you for all the information you provided. I am going to build my own now
Thanks to you. 👏
Good stuff! Can't wait to hear how you get on ^Matt
After moving back to NZ after building in Perth Aust, I can't believe the backward way builders work here! The best and most efficient way is to cut out and prop your pergola / Verandah in the air. Set the pitch angle and or height, then when this is square and level you measure or scribe the post and cut the length prior to bolting or concreting in place.we would do this even with heavy laminated hardwood beams or steel frames.
nz rockdj sorry moron,born and bred in NZ before you were out of nappies
I agree Mike. Installing the posts cut to the correct length (because this part can be done horizontally at ground level on a drop or slide saw) is better than cutting freehand with the circular saw at height and on the side.. too much room for error.
This is great teaching. Thank you sir.
Very impressive, precise, easy to follow, I'm not watching the Bunnings one anymore as they just rush it through in 3 minutes for every DIY videos while you're spending 30 minutes to teach us, well done.
This guy is the ultimate pro
Very well put together. Really enjoyed this.
I like it, the step by step instruction is well explained and the job is great, but will this polycarbonate roofing stands the Canadian winter ? I'll like to build one myself.
It would be hard to know, because our winter seasons in NZ are nothing compared to what it would be like in Canada particularly snow conditions. However, wind, rain and hail, these are no problem for polycarbonate roofs.
Love these vids! Now I need this guy help me with my DIY disasters around my house haha!
just ordered the *WoodBlueprints. Com* guide for step-by-step videos and different plans to BUILD A SHED. they have some awesome plans in there
kia ora, when you were figuring out where to cut the post opposite the stairs you got your level line from under the rafter and then took off your 193mm off that line which would have actually made the post around 145mm shorter than it should have been!!
As an American, my favorite part is the "Rightyoh"
Thanks so much for the support Brendan! 🙌
EXcellent advice & you are very skillful, but in my opinion the ccorrugations look very dated now.. any reason why you didn't use flat twin wall sheeting ?
Thanks so much very nice job mate 👍👍👍
Great videos guys. Thank you
Really good work! Congrats!
I love your videos!!
Great video show
Beautiful work. Guess it doesn't rain much there though.
Perfect job.
Anyone know if the packers need to be angled to allow for the slope in the weatherboards? Not covered in the video ...
Does 193mm always give 5 degrees,no matter how long the rafters are?
awesome add on, I recently did something similar
Awesome! Thanks for your feedback 👍 ^Billie
Good video. When you get to the rafter part though, how would you measure each one individually if you needed to especially if the ends are on different angles?
very detailed video, Awesome
Well done
ur the man mate awsome.
Nice
Hi . What size if your post ? And what size of your beam please ? Thanks
if it's brick wall, how do we find the studs?
Hi Dharmesh, thanks for your comment! We’d recommend having a chat to the team at your local store - they’ll be able to help with some personalised advice and help with your project 👏 ^Cam
Can you cut rough sawn timber smooth
What is this white material? PVC? I don’t think we have solid pvc here in US.
Nice work, on the safety side please protect your lungs from saw dust
Is the fall in the rafters even necessary if there is no roof?
funnylishus he puts a roof on in the next vid
I love Kiwis!
Oiseau Denuit p0
thankyou
Did u use 190x45 timber?
That's right, this can depend on the build you need!
What about getting a building permit first,you need one in Australia
Leigh Johnson I would double check that if I was you.
Eg at 8:20 tight screws?
This Aussie bloke is mighty good🙊😫😂😂😍
whoooopsy ..I meant kiwi bloke lol
Smart guy
i am leaving a comment in the chat boys very nice vid i like much
Wow! 😱
What happened
☹️
great video, but it's not easy, at least for me :)
David L. Talaf0iu
David L. me2
hi your building looks great I like its art goodbye happy mothers day $123456789 your friend
22:54 How do you keep vertical line during drilling?
Maksim Huzmiev there is no way I would have come out the other side of that board lined up to the hole in the top of the post. I would have to have used a drill press to get through it as much as possible.
Maksim Huzmiev do your best. the hole is wider, so the anchor bolt can fit just fine after a tube of that epoxy he was using. It's not hard to drill a straight hole, and using a drill press is a fantasy. You're not taking a drill press every where in the field, let alone one large enough OR portable enough.. lol
It's called 'Professional experience'
Anyone know a good website to design? He said LBP but it isn’t free?
Righty oh!
I'm not sure about the threaded rod and epoxy to fix the post to the beam, but everythibg else is good
My wife loves sitting on my "deck"
You got a massive deck bro?
@@driedcheese she sits on my deck now bro lol
It was easy az! 😂
is it necessary to use glulam H5 for everything or is standard H3.5 ok?
Flat Earth Kiwi H5 is massive overkill for anything above ground
An amazing set of instructions. Absolutely brilliantly explained. Great presenter.
OMG this video / instructions are so awesome, I feel confident I could rebuild our rotting pergola myself - the previous owner built it using 'indoor' timber.😬
I love this guy: the she'll be right kiwi attitude shines right through. Next video - "How to construct your own Ballistic Missile Nuclear Submarine | Mitre 10 Easy As"
This host is great, straight to the point and no fluff, great work.
who watched the whole thing and still called a professional out to do it?
wahh Taoo uui
😂😂
LOL
Yup!
@@joshorellana5980 x de
Vdd
So many useful tips in that video to use in smaller jobs as well. Nicely filmed and edited too. Thanks
Maria Hippach
Maria Hippach '
Maria Hippach
Maria H Thanks! Let me know if anything you guys want me to make.
Maria H
I thought I was cool.....until I started watching this dude.
JTAC 81 same
I'm cooler!
We still think we are cool tho
Love that the local guidelines are mentioned. Many people forget about mentioning this.
OK, so what about one that' positione at the END of a 7.5M wide building, that is no more than 4M to the BASE of a very high concrete wall, on top of which is an extra height corrugated iron rence?
Making the pad at the end of the house 4x 7.5 = 30sq M exactly.
The PERGOLA would thus be UNDER the height of the top of the fence, (which borders a road/street) and thus is thoroughly inside the confines of the property at the end of the house, meaning it's height "above" any existing structure would be a MINUS figure, so could it therefore butt hard up against the base of the concrete wall itself?
The top of the wall "leans towards the road, as it is NOT a parallel structure, but wider at it's base and thinner at the top of the concrete which is a minimum (up there) of 150mm on top of which sits a 125mm thick post and corrugated iron fence.
The concrete pad (as that's all that grows there) is fully from the house to the base of the concrete, (4M) with a faint fall towards the wall, so that rain/snow etc cannot drain towards the house, but away from it, to then run down along a gutter at the wall, before draining down the driveway away from the wall, past the house, into the back garden where it soaks in.
We also get rain draining in from the street, to join at the end of the wall.
As an aside, as I am now in a wheelchair, so we "park" the car such that I can transfer from the car into the house (as easily as possible with one leg), to get into my "chair" inside the door.
Oh and the view is irrelevant as there is a dirty great MOUNTAIN directly across the road from the house so sunlight/sky views aren't all that great after 4pm.
So having a pergola "blocking" that view is also irrelevant.
Nothing on the hill, except scrubby bushes, lots of rabbits, a few tame and stray cats and farmed GOATS, yeah they run goats on there as it's too steep for anything else.
Hence why we wanted a pergola (roofed with clearlight) to avoid the adverse weather when I go to & from the car/wheelchair.
Thus - what's your view? 30square meters at the maximum, footed directly onto an existing pad,
Oh and yes, we are resident in the best part of NZ - at it's mainland center.
Is that galvanised strapping sufficient fixing for the downward force and weight of rafters?
The definition of “easy as” must be different in New Zealand. My goodness. Good video though.
26:55 even if its nice and tight in middle it would be crucial to check properly that you have not bent the beam out. righty oh
Good vid. I work from the top down/temp props for front beam/ put posts in last. Working out rafter spacing on ribbon ( pitch) plate 5.753 m minus rafter thickness ,then divide by 6 spaces. That still gets centre to centre but it gets one side of each rafter. So it's then just a mark then a cross , mark and a cross and so on. Check if the house wall ( where the beam starts from) is plumb. Don't assume it's plumb . If it's 5mm away ,then add 5mm to beam length. I would probably leave the beam a bit long and cut it off up there. I normally rebate the posts to fit to the beam and use 2 cup head bolts through beam to post. With the roof battens, I also shoot them to the rafters like you do but as a high wind will lift up the weakest part, I drive in 1 long bugle to each intersection. If it's only shot with 2 nails per intersection, the battens will twist in time. If I ever do a pergola with rafters going over the top of the beam and overhanging , I weld up a special U shape shoe the slips onto the underside of rafter and has a welded down tab to screw 2 teks into beam and on the U shaped bit, I screw 2 teks into the rafter.I do that to every second rafter.That's for the reason of high winds.I don't like to use the pryda triple grips because I think they look ub\gly.Thats another reason I weld up my own design ( less ugly and very effective. If I put polycarbonate roof sheet up, I install folded metal sheet that caps over the top face of the batten ( width of batten with 10mm down folds.) Reason for that is you can only paint the timber once before the sheeting is installed and it doesn't take long for the sun to do it's work and wear out the paint. The metal flashing will protect the timber way longer than the paint will. Lastly, when I do end flashings to each end of an iron roofed pergola/ verandah, the standard way to finish the flashing, is to do a 10mm fold back in to touch the timber rafter. While it looks neat, the rafter will require replacing in a number of years. The alternative is to do the 10mm fold outwards. It might not look as pretty.( still looks okay though) but the rafter will last many times more years than the other method because water will be deflected away from the rafter. That's either from rain or cold , frosty, icy mornings. :)
I love your channel.
It is very clear and professional.
I'm from Brazil and I hope to travel to improve my English conversation and get to know some professionals from the construction field.
#Construction #TEAM = Together Everyone Achieves More
Beautiful job, nice aesthetic detail in both the project and production. Wish we had materials readily available here in US , such as exterior, treated, laminated post. I've been agonizing about ripping out box store 4x4s that look more like 16' cork screws after three years.
They put the decking on upside down..
What did he say.
I like this and it is on my Bucketlist to keep the frontdoor rainfree!
"Take this in to mitre10 and the guys will be there to help ya" - i tried that and they were rude and unhelpful mate
Really sorry to hear that - we'd like to make sure this is followed up and you get the assistance you need - could you please send us a DM via Facebook or through the contact form on our website www.mitre10.co.nz/contact-us ^Matt
the raffters would be better if they were notched and housed into the wall plate, the straps will only hold the two together but the weight of the raffter will not be supported correctly and joint will be weak.
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The rafter holds itself with the 5 degree cut at each end.
What’s is this TUM-BAAHHH he speaks of! 😂
By just watching your professional videos, I feel like I have done master digree in it. many thanks
Glad to hear you're finding them useful ^Charlie
This guy is great! Simple and straight up directions and local knowledge
I love New Zealand accent with construction. Absolutely Brilliant.
Love it too mate. Just not sure if he says "rodeo" or "radio" all the time? Cheers from Czech Republic :)
Karel Keklak I’m from New Zealand he’s saying righty oh
@@kennethscharvi8577 Thanks mate. I lived in NZ for about a year, but it has been while since then. Love Kiwi accent, sweet as.
Until he says "deck"
I love the look of this house, and the pergola is the perfect tropical "cherry on top!" Is that a pet door in the French door?
yes
Hey Mr Mitre, i have seen most of your videos. But in this video HOW IN THE WORLD can you achieve drilling that DEEP hole using the spade ? I mean what do you do to NOT emerge out of the side of the bean instead of the bottom to insert that threaded rod ? Please share that wisdom !. Dino from Curacao
Postion the beam next to the post and/or clamp a square to the beam next to the hole use them as a guide to drilling vertically. Checking from one side then the other side (ie at 90 degrees to view the two planes) frequently as you go to ensure you haven't gone off at and angle. With care it's not as hard as you might think. Also you can go half way through and then turn the beam over and start from the other side and meet in the middle. Use a bit that's a couple of mm (maybe 1/8th") bigger than the bolt diameter so there's enough play in the hole diameter to ensure the bolt will still fit even though likely the holes won't meet up perfectly. Practice on an offcut of wood if you're not confident. No magic required! : )
great video, however I will never...never will work with a watch and ring attached to my hand that is so dangerous
Weezy G. I bet you also sit down to piss 🤷♂️ 🤦♂️
That timber looks perfect with hardly if any knots(that i can see) in any of the lengths.After a visit to a local Mitre 10 failed to find any machined lengths that weren't riddled with knots,alright if the structure is hidden, but not for a pergola, thanks .....very disappointing.
Thank you for using the metric system!
Such great detailed explanations as you went, good pace, and easy to understand.
I’m curious why you didn’t check your beam onto the posts instead of looping and sitting right on top? I felt the extra fastening would improve the join strength and still look good when finished.
Thanks for sharing!
very very helpful and useful tips. many thanks.
Nice job and instructional video. 👍
Excellent détailled présentation step by step. All comments clearly transmitted, even for à french canadian. Need just to adapt for frost line . thanks Yves harvey
Thanks for your feedback Yves, we really appreciate it 👍 ^Billie
This needs to be updated NZ Building regs have changed as of 2024, no permits needed
it's very nice but it seems hard to do
Not the most complicated job in the world but you can see how good of a chippy this bloke is by the way he goes about it. Very professional Good vid.
Cheers Rich 👍
Would it be easy to close it off with walls by adding studwall framing to the existing posts ?
Thanks
Hi,
Really nice and detailed video.
I am planning to build one "Lean-to-Pergola" attached to my house on the deck. Instead of digging beam, can I make it sit on the deck board ? Expected size would be W=7mtr : H=4mtrs.
Please suggest.
Hey there, for individual advice on your project we'd recommend talking to the team in store - they'll be able to help with that ^Matt
Thank you for sharing . Gathered some "Handy , Dandy " Tips.. Great workmanship.
Awesome to hear, thanks heaps for watching! ^Cam
tee hee, he said 'take care when you remove your dicking boards
Beautifully done....excellent!!!
THANK for Mitre 10 that video !
Pergolas are a great idea! if you want to spend lots of money, get zero to no shade, and yet pretend it's all good...
On a Pergola, simply purchase sunshade fabric and roll out and secure over rafters. Pergolas are not solid sheathed patio covers, that’s a different video.
@@stevelopez372 Agree fantastic video!
great video as always Stan is a true professional !!
Thanks for being DIY. Help 👍 😮Great