The MItre10 how-to videos are the best. They're clear and concise and, above all, I come away having found what I was looking for. So many other videos out there waste my time droning on and on about stuff I couldn't care about.
+shimmeringreflection Their delivery fees are shockingly high. A 7 minute drive return and a 5 minute unload would have cost me $90. You can buy all the shit you want from their shop but you need to sort your own delivery. A 20 minute delivery job for $90 kaahmon. Now I'll drive the extra k to Bunnings.
I would highly recommend having the slab height above the existing ground to prevent groundwater from running in under the shed bottom to keep everything inside dry. I also recommend using a edging trowel and run around all 4 sides to neaten the slab before the concrete dries.
Wouldn't you need some sort of water course around that slab, considering it is below ground level at one end? I'm no expert, but that set up seemed wonky.
Really good job ! Just seem like it would fill up with water , but different places may drain differently, in south Louisiana, that puppy will be flooded in no time ,
Thank you so much for putting your valuable time to show us & i totally agree with the comment made by @pinkows 6 years ago . Thank you again keep up the good work. Ben from downunder 😉
Doesnt matter how far you dug in, your boxing at 100mm high is sitting directly on the dirt. Then you add basefill, then sand, polythene and on top, the concrete. All this you say is 175mm which is higher than your boxing. How so? Although its not shown this way, do you sit the boxing on the base course?
***** I thought it's just a minor mistake in making a diagram to show how the box is setup on the ground. In the diagram, the box doesn't sit on the base, but it goes through the base. So I think we can have an option to lay down the box on the base or the box goes through the base as shown in the diagram. If the box sits on the base, the box should be 100mm high. If the box goes through the base, it should be more than 100mm high (125 mm for example).
Yeah, 100mm boxing but the basefill, sand and concrete is supposed to be 150mm high so he either made the concrete layer not as thick as it was supposed to be or got the measurement of the boxing wrong cos it didnt look like he put the boxing on top of the basefill.
Came to comments , to check the man-splaining critiques, to see if there was some improvement potential. Nothing!! (That's rare.)This is great. Very straight forward video. Thanks, Mate! (Mite? -NZ))
My rebate needed to be 70mm. Ensure you really work the concrete up underneath. (Mine ended up rounded off a little on the outer edge) Otherwise, great video! 👍
I've read conflicting stuff online about moisture barriers. Some claiming pouring concrete onto it will not let it cure properly, causing the water to rise to top rather than draining through the basecourse. I'm not sure whether I should use it on my driveway?
From what I've seen, on a garage-size project, you use a vibrating wand to raise the water and let out air bubbles then you let it evaporate from the top of the concrete before you damp it down, keeping it moist while it finishes curing. I am DEFINITELY not an expert so do your own research.
Harrison Forsyth so you frame for footings & pad at the same time than pour it at once. Only the footing is deeper than spread cement over the whole pad with footing.
Yup thats what I want to know. AND if the gravel is 75mm and the concrete is 75mm that is 150 mm and the boards he used is 100mm. have I missed something.
ChumpyChicken2 Zhu nbbnbnn n nnnnnnnnnnnnmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmMmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm,mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Hi Joshua the measurements in the handy guide here www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-lay-a-concrete-pad have 75mm from bottom of basecourse to polythene then its 75 mm of concrete :) ^Ryan
Measure diagonal and than took id and move to other place? And he means that will not change in its diagonal dimension? So complicated and unprofessional folks, what ever you say.
He measured it then marked it in place, then moved it away. Normally I don't do it that way I usually use grading stakes, and leave them in place even while digging, but it's not really too bad what he did especially considering it's just a Damn shed. He certainly didn't need the rebar.
The mesh I see at Mitre10 is not galvanised and has some surface rust on it. It shouldn't rust any further once the concrete has cured as there is no air.
Seems good so far! Was easy to talk to about his My Shed Plans [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Guided me in the right direction & helped me understand everything & in the end it was what I wanted
A hack idea i wanted some opinions on ... i have a remote property where the soil filters into a soft powdery sand. I'd like to make 24x24x6 deep pavers i can drive over but want to bring in the minimal amount of materials and Id like to mix each paver with a drill in place into a reusable plastic oil coated form. For reinforcement something in bags i can throw in and mix like some fiber. Think this will work? What's a good mix ratio if using portland cement? Any way to manually add some air to the pavers and make them even thicker? I was also thinking of manually compacting the base and adding a polymer to harded the base before it before mixing the cement over it. The form will have slightly rounded corners and i plan to cut out an aggressive bevel.
If you're located in New Zealand, definitely head into your local store and have a chat with our team. Otherwise, you're local DIY/hardware store should be able to give you some pointers ^Charlie
If you want to lay pavers or any sort of material to drive a car on, you will need to ensure you have a well compacted base, dig area out, place in 75mm base course compact, 20mm gap 7 fines and compact again. For mixing ratios read the back of the cement bag. Place your form in place, add mesh if you want pavers to be as strong as possible (check out this video www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-lay-paving ). If you are wanting to drive on these then I’d recommend that you make the pavers 100mm thick.
Hey Arun, you're not going to be wanting to lay your concrete in the rain. The timber is used for the boxing of the concrete pad and will be removed once the concrete has dried.
Your boxing is 100mm high but your fill is 150mm with 75mm concrete on top of 75mm basecourse, sand and polythene. What's the go? What did you do here to create the magic of no 'easy as' overflow?
0:39 "Just leave your nail sticking out a little way, when we take the boxing off it's gonna make it nice and easy". 0:45 Hammer it home son! Good work though, honestly I think these vids are good value. Keep it up Mitre10!
The MItre10 how-to videos are the best. They're clear and concise and, above all, I come away having found what I was looking for. So many other videos out there waste my time droning on and on about stuff I couldn't care about.
+shimmeringreflection I have to agree. best DIY videos by a home improvement store that I've seen
+shimmeringreflection Their delivery fees are shockingly high. A 7 minute drive return and a 5 minute unload would have cost me $90. You can buy all the shit you want from their shop but you need to sort your own delivery. A 20 minute delivery job for $90 kaahmon. Now I'll drive the extra k to Bunnings.
shimmeringreflection
shimmeringreflection ppp999kimh1
shimmeringreflection steer WHEN
I tried using pigs they didn't like it.
Don't forget to leave the nails and screws on the lawn for the mower to collect.
Thanks I almost forgot
Hahahahahahaha brilliant!
2:10 shovel any unnecessary soil etc into next doors garden 😏🤣
Ii8oo9idn 6kcnx💩😇💩💩💩😇😇💙"# ⊙☆ yj
Ya , do that at night
Absolute comical 😂👍
how many DIY people nail there boxing together then measure it and go 'yup spot on'..
defiantly not me , i do these things 4-5 times then rage hahah
@@guygoodwin you and me both...
Not me!
Lmao
0.01% 'yup spot on'.... 99.9% 'Ah sh*t'
I would highly recommend having the slab height above the existing ground to prevent groundwater from running in under the shed bottom to keep everything inside dry. I also recommend using a edging trowel and run around all 4 sides to neaten the slab before the concrete dries.
Had rebaits in it no point would never see it but definitely spot on about having the slab above the existing ground 🤣🤣🤦♂️
Are you just saying that because you heard it from someone else a couple of days before?
these are prob the best diy videos out there..
Thanks heaps Adrian 🔨
Why’s it so slanted 👀
Kiwi accent always makes me smile, god bless em.
Yeah but to be fair, that's a brilliant name you've got
How can you have 75mm base coarse and sand inside the boxing , then 75mm of concrete poured, but have only 100mm high boxing?
I just watched this and had the exact same thought.
The base course only takes up 25mm of the boxing. The other 50mm is below it
Good point! They actually put the boxing right at the base of the dirt then added the base course so it doesn’t make sense!
150mm, he has mentioned if you heard him correctly. 5yrs later lmao.
The boxing is 150mm 😂😂
That slab will lead to the leaky shed syndrome 😜 as the slab is not higher than the ground level to keep the rainwater out.
he said he was building a shit 😂😂😂😂😂
i think he is great and very easy to understand
marrod Rivera anbbvfyfdrsfd
THIS GUY IS BRILLIANT AS ALWAYS !!!!! DON'T PREFER TO WATCH ANYONE BUT HIM !!! KIWIS ARE AWESOME IN THEIR TUTORIAL !!!! 🤗🤗🤗🤗
Wouldn't you need some sort of water course around that slab, considering it is below ground level at one end? I'm no expert, but that set up seemed wonky.
Hello from England. I love these videos, really practical and helpful. Thanks!
Really good job ! Just seem like it would fill up with water , but different places may drain differently, in south Louisiana, that puppy will be flooded in no time ,
don't forget to take the screws out of the pigs
Stfu
Why are we fixing pigs to the boxing? 🐷📦?... 1:58
Great video. Covered all of the points I was looking for. Thanks!
You will get damp on back corner of shed where ground slopes
Good vid. But is he speaking some English variant ? What's a "dipth" and a "shid" ?
NZ accent.
Thank you so much for putting your valuable time to show us & i totally agree with the comment made by @pinkows 6 years ago . Thank you again keep up the good work.
Ben from downunder 😉
You are so welcome, thanks so much for watching Ben! ^Cam
Why is he constantly saying shit? I pi... my pants! "First, we have to decide where our shit goes" 😆
Doesnt matter how far you dug in, your boxing at 100mm high is sitting directly on the dirt. Then you add basefill, then sand, polythene and on top, the concrete. All this you say is 175mm which is higher than your boxing. How so? Although its not shown this way, do you sit the boxing on the base course?
Mjjk
K9/9
*****
I thought it's just a minor mistake in making a diagram to show how the box is setup on the ground. In the diagram, the box doesn't sit on the base, but it goes through the base. So I think we can have an option to lay down the box on the base or the box goes through the base as shown in the diagram. If the box sits on the base, the box should be 100mm high. If the box goes through the base, it should be more than 100mm high (125 mm for example).
p
Yeah, 100mm boxing but the basefill, sand and concrete is supposed to be 150mm high so he either made the concrete layer not as thick as it was supposed to be or got the measurement of the boxing wrong cos it didnt look like he put the boxing on top of the basefill.
Came to comments , to check the man-splaining critiques, to see if there was some improvement potential. Nothing!! (That's rare.)This is great. Very straight forward video. Thanks, Mate! (Mite? -NZ))
We'll take that positive feedback! Cheers, mate. ^Rhi
My rebate needed to be 70mm. Ensure you really work the concrete up underneath. (Mine ended up rounded off a little on the outer edge) Otherwise, great video! 👍
No Donkey Kong warning ... ???
Be sure to keep your donkey locked up in the chicken run ...
spot on instructions...thanks
S Mazur kkkoooomsss
Thanks - any particular depth of sand ? Sand and base-course is 75 mm - it looks like 25mm sand and 50mm base-course. Is the ratio important ?
I from Australia and New Zealand
What is the base comprised of? It looks like ash and gravel or similar.
+kakman1958 It's called 'Road Base'
It doesn't look level but i know that's probably the lawn... He's great
you doin wron men u dont have to dig so dip
GREAT that shed will flood
Yeah na I’ll get someone in
I've read conflicting stuff online about moisture barriers. Some claiming pouring concrete onto it will not let it cure properly, causing the water to rise to top rather than draining through the basecourse. I'm not sure whether I should use it on my driveway?
From what I've seen, on a garage-size project, you use a vibrating wand to raise the water and let out air bubbles then you let it evaporate from the top of the concrete before you damp it down, keeping it moist while it finishes curing. I am DEFINITELY not an expert so do your own research.
Always informative and practical projects. Thanks!!
thank you 😃
nice and easy explain, any one can follow your instructions, Great Job mate. thank you.
and have some fush an chups
You are so great, thank you for your show.
Thanks for watching! ^Charlie
His SHID will be class.
Is this the same way to do footing, and cement floor for a garage?
No it's not you just pour the cement and level it out with a trole
I
Harrison Forsyth so you frame for footings & pad at the same time than pour it at once. Only the footing is deeper than spread cement over the whole pad with footing.
+Dennis Fossey bo7
Dennis Fossey and
Best concrete vid I seen thus far 💯💯💯
hmmm, im guessing the ground must be seriously uneven, or that concrete pad is.
The ground is uneven
All you num nuts who thinks the pad isn't level look again. Then go watch the shed video that he builds and puts on it.
Synthetic NZ they let the ground confuse them makes it look the the pad is not level
Ooij
Shut up you bell end!
Benjamin Moore Advance Paint
Thanks
I'm from the USA. You guys don't have duplex nails down there?
Hi, are you using ready mix concrete?
Very good summary video. I really don't like how the ground is very sloped which makes the concrete slab looks unlevelled (but I know it is).
When you take the boards out what stops the gravel falling away?
Yup thats what I want to know. AND if the gravel is 75mm and the concrete is 75mm that is 150 mm and the boards he used is 100mm. have I missed something.
Awsome...No nonsense. Very informative. Thank you. :)
SHID
A base for a shid.
Best vid so far, now im gonna go get some fush n chups.....
In concrete laying & construction your boxing is called shuttering .....
ragnor56 or formwork
como a ser un techo
Kiwi accent is Aussie with a dollop of butter..
Yummy bacon and eggs no it's not... kiwi accent is English with some Southern Hemisphere upsidedownish
ChumpyChicken2 Zhu nbbnbnn n nnnnnnnnnnnnmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmMmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm,mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
ChumpyChicken2
Whats the difference between Australia and New Zealand? Easy everyone that came to New Zealand wanted to .@SidtheKid
Why is the pad on a downhill slope continuing below grade?Been in construction many years, never seen anything like this.
Obviously because the ground isn't level. Don't comment that you've been in construction because anyone with half a brain would notice.
+Kael Thanks for sharing your lack of common construction knowledge.
wow what a dumbass
+charles hitower Yes you are.
Sorry can't be your mentor on such a challenging subject for you.
Perhaps you should search for the missing gene before we continue.
☺
+charles hitower Did you make sure your timber was square before you continued you fucking rookie.
Ok perfetto
oh ... fixing pigs to the boxing
John G mskeersartnaskeer
yo le pondría música de fondo, para hacerlo menos tedioso.
822 thumbs down? Why though? This vid is great
It's just going to fill with water 😂😂😂
Rebate explained super well. ✅
If the slab is 150 mm in height including the base course, sand and concrete and the boxing is 100 mm in height where is the extra 50 mm?
Hi Joshua the measurements in the handy guide here www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-lay-a-concrete-pad have 75mm from bottom of basecourse to polythene then its 75 mm of concrete :) ^Ryan
thats way to low below ground levels…itll flood first rain lol
I came looking for help in a Shed pad. Instead I got a lesson on how to install a pad for a Sheeed1
lmao the whole time it sounded like he was saying shit..would make a good drinking game
Great guide - well explained and shot
Pigs?
chanel kamu bagus, seneng deh, main kechanelku bro
why did he put polythelyne?
For a sheeid
Oops I thought I was at Bunnings but this works too
Measure diagonal and than took id and move to other place? And he means that will not change in its diagonal dimension?
So complicated and unprofessional folks, what ever you say.
He measured it then marked it in place, then moved it away. Normally I don't do it that way I usually use grading stakes, and leave them in place even while digging, but it's not really too bad what he did especially considering it's just a Damn shed. He certainly didn't need the rebar.
I'm looking forward to seeing your expert tutorial video on how to pour a slab. When's it gonna be posted?
Class wee video NZ Irish does the same 👌👍🤘🍻
I see you used mesh. Could you use old fence instead? I have some old farm fence. Does rust on the mesh matter?
It has to be galvenised
The mesh I see at Mitre10 is not galvanised and has some surface rust on it. It shouldn't rust any further once the concrete has cured as there is no air.
How many cement bags used and how many times you fill the mixer?? About give approx accurate figures.
Mate, I did a 2.3mx2.3m x 100mm thick. Took 50 bags of 20kg concrete. Get a mix truck!
how did you finish around this? its below grade
And the comments do not fail to make me laugh. Awesome lol
This guy should show the real men who do the work.
Any chance anyone can tell me if he used a trencher?
Good job
Cheers!
thank u very much sir.
Yaregal Mengistie BeAsts the 9
Wrong!!!!!
Totally lost.Never seen a slab terminate below grade.Only rebate needed is an explanation.
kkkk
Richard Stern
Not worried rain water will pool in that low area?
You should have seen the pergola he built.
Easy as?
What about the rat wall?
Seems good so far! Was easy to talk to about his My Shed Plans [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Guided me in the right direction & helped me understand everything & in the end it was what I wanted
A hack idea i wanted some opinions on ... i have a remote property where the soil filters into a soft powdery sand. I'd like to make 24x24x6 deep pavers i can drive over but want to bring in the minimal amount of materials and Id like to mix each paver with a drill in place into a reusable plastic oil coated form. For reinforcement something in bags i can throw in and mix like some fiber. Think this will work? What's a good mix ratio if using portland cement? Any way to manually add some air to the pavers and make them even thicker? I was also thinking of manually compacting the base and adding a polymer to harded the base before it before mixing the cement over it. The form will have slightly rounded corners and i plan to cut out an aggressive bevel.
If you're located in New Zealand, definitely head into your local store and have a chat with our team. Otherwise, you're local DIY/hardware store should be able to give you some pointers ^Charlie
If you want to lay pavers or any sort of material to drive a car on, you will need to ensure you have a well compacted base, dig area out, place in 75mm base course compact, 20mm gap 7 fines and compact again.
For mixing ratios read the back of the cement bag. Place your form in place, add mesh if you want pavers to be as strong as possible (check out this video www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-lay-paving ). If you are wanting to drive on these then I’d recommend that you make the pavers 100mm thick.
Good job my friend . buen trabajo mi amigo. Eatoy aprendiendo con tus videos
Thanks great video.
Hmm
why is the pad not straight
What about the rain. Does using wood a good option keeping in mind rain.
Hey Arun, you're not going to be wanting to lay your concrete in the rain. The timber is used for the boxing of the concrete pad and will be removed once the concrete has dried.
Your boxing is 100mm high but your fill is 150mm with 75mm concrete on top of 75mm basecourse, sand and polythene. What's the go? What did you do here to create the magic of no 'easy as' overflow?
Hi ***** , We dug down into the earth the make it flush. SR
+Mitre 10 New Zealand What he is trying to say is that your filll content is 150mm which is 50mm more than your 100mm boxing.
Sandra Papuni
Was the pad level? Or is it just me ?
0:39 "Just leave your nail sticking out a little way, when we take the boxing off it's gonna make it nice and easy". 0:45 Hammer it home son! Good work though, honestly I think these vids are good value. Keep it up Mitre10!
its harder to see, but he leaves it the second nail out as far as the first.