If you’re using the Vcarve tool path, How do you set up the tapered ball nose bit in Vcarve, as a VBit. Or are you just making the socket and plug as separate projects?
All the boards look great…thank you for the information. Are you using the V12 tool paths? I went back to the old way because I didn’t like how I could not control how deep the bit plunged on the plug paths. On cutting boards I usually do 0.315 deep. Just curious how deep are yours?
Thank you for the excellent video. I've been getting really into inlays lately and it's helpful to see how others approach it. I've been wondering about your use of a tapered ballnose. At 3:28, when you say "simply because they're more durable", do you mean compared to V bits?
@@TwoMooseDesign Damn, I noticed the tip of my go-to V bit was broken recently and had to replace it. I just assumed I must have mishandled it and didn't notice! Thanks for the tip!
It has to be the same grain. If you put face grain in face grain going the same way it will be fine. But face grain into end grain would move at different rates and the inlay would crack pretty fast.
You get alot of tear out trying to make a detailed image with long grain and will just end up driving yourself crazy trying to do this with long grain. Sometimes it can work no problem and sometimes it just doesn't. Its really not even worth the headache to take a chance on getting tear out trying to do this long grain to long grain. For super crisp detailed image outcome....just stick with doing endgrain only.
100% serious question. Does anyone even buy end grain cutting boards? Without the inlay, do end grain cutting boards sell for even 10% of the labor that goes into them?
Absolutely any decent end grain board is $200 or so depending on size. It’s also not nearly as bad if you have a lot of tools. Without a good planer and drum sander I wouldn’t even bother
I've learned that if you are sloppy and lazy, then you will experience many errors in your CNC machining. The machine will not adapt to correct for your laziness.
Pro tip. When leveling the end grain, take a climb cut around the perimeter first. You will have 0 tear-out.
Thanks for the tip!
These are simply fantastic!
Thank you!
Nice work Jef! The boards look great! Even the first run. Keep up the great content!
Thank you! I appreciate it
Love your work…You have definitely got the inlay technique down pat…love the whole process…
Thanks!
Good morning 🌅, Very nice work, very interesting, CNC is way over my head, from France
Thanks for watching! We appreciate it
All of them are works of art !
Thank you, I appreciate it
I always loved your work on these and it's cool to see your process. Sweet looking boards.
Thanks! I appreciate it!
Great job
Thank you!!
I have had that same issue before with the auto center not actually centering it to the eye bc of an asymmetrical design. Nice save tho!
Ugh I’ve done it so many times 😆
awesome
Thank you!
Wow
Thanks!
I’m with Jess, blood wood looks good. However it does dull edges of tools quickly in my experience.
It does! Sooo dense, also why I avoid wenge lol
If you’re using the Vcarve tool path, How do you set up the tapered ball nose bit in Vcarve, as a VBit. Or are you just making the socket and plug as separate projects?
I run it as a v bit and I use v carve tool path
All the boards look great…thank you for the information. Are you using the V12 tool paths? I went back to the old way because I didn’t like how I could not control how deep the bit plunged on the plug paths. On cutting boards I usually do 0.315 deep. Just curious how deep are yours?
I do not I do v carve toolpath. Yeah I never used it, I didn’t like how it was set up. In the board about .25 and .3 or so on the plug. I
Thank you for the excellent video. I've been getting really into inlays lately and it's helpful to see how others approach it.
I've been wondering about your use of a tapered ballnose. At 3:28, when you say "simply because they're more durable", do you mean compared to V bits?
Yes, with deep passes the fine v but tips can break drastically easier
@@TwoMooseDesign Damn, I noticed the tip of my go-to V bit was broken recently and had to replace it. I just assumed I must have mishandled it and didn't notice! Thanks for the tip!
Those look awesome! So why would it fail if it’s not end grain?
It has to be the same grain. If you put face grain in face grain going the same way it will be fine. But face grain into end grain would move at different rates and the inlay would crack pretty fast.
Thanks for watching!
You get alot of tear out trying to make a detailed image with long grain and will just end up driving yourself crazy trying to do this with long grain. Sometimes it can work no problem and sometimes it just doesn't. Its really not even worth the headache to take a chance on getting tear out trying to do this long grain to long grain. For super crisp detailed image outcome....just stick with doing endgrain only.
*How did you color the Wood?*
The wood I used is naturally that color. No dyes were used
They look too good to use.
Thanks for watching! You must use them
100% serious question. Does anyone even buy end grain cutting boards? Without the inlay, do end grain cutting boards sell for even 10% of the labor that goes into them?
Absolutely any decent end grain board is $200 or so depending on size. It’s also not nearly as bad if you have a lot of tools. Without a good planer and drum sander I wouldn’t even bother
Nice work. What feed rate are you using with the tapered bit?
I do full passes so 20-30ipm depending on bit and wood type
what size bits you use for inlays if you dont mind? I am wanting to try some myself.
Oh dang I forgot to add them to the description I believe. I’ll add them tonight. I use a tapered ball nose and upcuts for clearing
I've learned that if you are sloppy and lazy, then you will experience many errors in your CNC machining. The machine will not adapt to correct for your laziness.
1000% every time I say ehhhhh there gonna be a problem. One day I’ll learn 😆