Very helpful video. Thank you. Here is a tip for getting rid of sharp corners on your profile vector. First select the vector, then choose the Offset Vectors tool. Make sure Delete original and Select boxes are selected. In the distance box, enter 1/2 your bit diameter. Select Outwards/Right and click the Offset button. Your old vector will be gone and a new vector will be selected. Now Select Inwards/Left and click Offset again. Your original vector will now be back in its place except the sharp corners will be rounded to fit your cutter.
BEST video I've watched all month! Just got my CNC and I'm in full learning mode. You packed a ton of learning in this video! It's bookmarked for quick access! Thanks for all your videos and being willing to share your knowledge and experience! Heading to your web site now! Appreciate you both!!!! T
Awesome vid. Gave great info. I have a Shapeoko 3XXL and S03 Standard. Been doing and learning since black friday 2019. Myself and my son are just now finishing moving our cnc’s from a corner area in my car hobby area to a 40x28 wood dedicated bay. New power, floor layout and hopefully 10 times better production. We are making Cannabis Cleaning Trays. Since our state it’s legal why not get on the band wagon? If stoners pay $50 for cheap Chinese stamped steal trays with a Vynil wrap that are paying $60-$80 for our Cherry or Walnut trays. Also, up sale laser images on trays. Have designs from basic rectangle to options of stainless steel ashtray inserted in wood. Maybe even a small 3d stl carve on it somewhere. A very nice profit margin. 😊
One thing I like to do for stability is take plain sawn wood, then rip it into strips, then flip them 90° so you get quarter sawn wood and glue up those blanks. The quarter sawn wood is more stable.
One of the better videos I've seen for someone starting out & completely new to cnc. Really enjoyed this and learned from someone who has become successful in this industry. Thank you. 👍
Thank you! I appreciate you watching. 𝙲𝙽𝙲 is definitely not just pushing a button. It takes a lot of practice to learn the machine and then the wood itself if you don’t have prior experience in woodworking.
@TwoMooseDesign I worked for the largest Defense contractor in the U.S. doing CAD before being laid off doing COVID. I don't believe it would take me too long to pick this up. However, I'm someone who learns by doing things "hands on" and can't find a quick two day class to get me started. Please keep the videos coming. I have a lot of great ideas.
Great video. You talked about your finish pass going beyond the line. What I learned is when you set the starting point on the finish pass as the depth of the of the roughing pass, it thinks it is the first pass as the narrowest part of the bit so it goes further. You are better off running the finish pass as a start at board surface with a depth of cut at your finish depth so the software knows you are finish depth and proper width. Say roughing pass is .35 and your finish pass is .38, set your start at the surface and your depth of cut to .38 without a ramp in. Might be something to try and possibly make a video with what you learn. I think everyone has the same issue. I wish the software would build that in so it just goes from roughing pass to finish pass with adjusted step over per your specs. Love the work you do. Working up the nerve to do inlay like you do.
You're not alone! People on the internet make cncs look easy. THEY ARE NOT! I tell people to expect a 6 month learning curve. Theres alot to learn from differnet materials, Bits, Software, the machine, ect. Its a lot at once, take your time and try and enjoy it. start with some easy stuff and work you way up. We do sell files with plans on our website that can help learn as they include what bits to use in the plans and such. Watch some youtube videos and dont beat yourself up, you got this!
It helps a ton, a majority of the items we’ve sold over the years revolved around personalization. It was a series of the same items that could be personalized, if you get too many or go to broad it gets hard to streamline. Then as others gained popularity with higher margins we’d cut the lesser items that took more time or resources to make.
Hi, nice informative video. a recommendation- keeping the direction of the bit path against the material, would give a better finish. For example, when cutting the outer surface/edges of a round tray, it would be better to direct the path counterclockwise, and for the inner surface, in a clockwise direction. About the epoxy, if it's a small piece, you can place it on a far corner and save its position for after the curing. And do another pass with the cnc afterwards, to avoid sanding. Cheers
I live on a lake and you are correct, they are big sellers. The sanding detail of a lake tray would take forever. You could round off the sharp edges, but I wonder if that would be a take away from the lake design?
On something like that I would probably be more cautious and you could most likely get a decent idea in the preview mode if it takes away from it or not.
@TwoMooseDesign I don't know if you have a klingspore close to you or not. But that's where I got mine from. They have 6 and 4 inch. And a 4 inch sanding star.
Love your videos Jeff, just curious on the pricing part, you didn't mention material costs, are you marking your cost up and adding that to the price as well?
Another good vid! I have a question about pricing. You talk about machine time and labor time, how do you account for materials ( wood, finishes, sandpaper etc)?
Hey! Thanks for watching! If it’s just a simple catch all tray 5-$10 is plenty for those. I’ve mostly made mine from scraps so it’s not something I’ve accounted for and the amount of oil I would use for one tray would be like less than .50. To figure out board feet if you are using lumber from a lumber supplier and not a big box store do length X width X thickness divided by 144. So a 10x10 tray is just over .5 board foot. An expensive hardwood would be $5 and a cheaper hard wood would be around $2-3 for a 10x10” tray
Milwaukee is coming out with a M12 3" orbital... can use cubitron extract. Much like their fine detail sander... game changers. Also... buy an 8mm collet for your spindle... then buy the 8mm x 40 mm Carbide bit and and the 15mm x 15mm 3 flute carbide clearing bit from a Shaper Origin dealer. Thank me later.
Thanks for the video, I'd say your prices are giving at the end are the whole sale price. The retail price should ideally be double to allow for website, stall, advertising, marketing or retailers margin.
Use a stopwatch to figure out roughly how long it takes you then add a little bit of time. Also a majority of what I used to make these when I sold them was scraps from other items customers already paid for so the “scraps” were pretty much free so I never paid much attention to it. But learn how to calculate board foot, it’s a simple equation to know how much wood you’re using. For example a 8x8 tray out of walnut I would assume the piece is 10x10x1” and at $9 a BF would cost me $6.25. That’s an expensive wood so typically it would be 1/3 of that cost but again I made them out of wood that would have been given away or burned. In the end if your numbers don’t add up they might not be worth your time or make sense for you to make them if you can’t get $40-$80+ a tray. Always time yourself on new items what you might think is 10 minutes might be 30 and on a small item that adds up quick, batches is key for this small stuff.
Hey Jeff awesome video! One question. The finish you ended up using was the tung oil correct? Your process for that was lather them up, can be real thick. Let it sit 12hrs then buff off. Am I right about that?
Yep! You don’t have to let it sit that long. I typically do them in the afternoon and just wipe them off in the morning. A few hours would probably be fine. And thanks! I appreciate it 😁
Sure maybe, but personally no since I already had a majority of the woodworking tools. Odds are most of those items are pretty low quality. A lot of the ones I’ve seen or the boards in sale at Home Depot look rough or low quality wood. I just don’t want to put my name on a low end product. If you could find a trusted source I’m sure it would save time and or money.
That works pretty good too, same with the screws it leaves the little mounds you gotta shave off. I’ve always wanted to try the composite nailers, I’ve heard good things just a little pricey.
Hi guys I have the x50 journeyman (still with Makita router)what is you speeds and feeds you run your bowl bit at I have the same bit and it takes me longer to pocket then you do thanks
Hey bro I’m new to cnc when making a bowl or tray I hate to change bits but I understand that u have to sometimes I’m having a tuff time learning how to reset the zero after changing bit please help thx Jody.
Yeah I would personally get more for it than a $100. It was just an example. The wood was scraps but it would have cost $10, cherry is relatively affordable.
Then you could try the online market. I personally know nothing about the market in the UK so it’s hard to help or give advice. I personally couldn’t get any of the prices I was asking when I started, I then started selling on Etsy and Shopify and that’s where 95% of our sales came from. Almost nothing local.
I used scraps from other projects when I sold these so I didn’t consider it much as they are smaller items. But the average catch all is 8x8 and even in expensive wood like walnut it’s less than $5 a tray. The multi pocket serving tray was like $8 in cherry. I would crank out large batches and sell them for $60-$100 each. You could really nickel and dime the finish and cost of the bit life but on something like this it’s not worth the head ache. Figure out a rough number ($5-10) and don’t stress it unless you’re using crazy expensive wood like zebra wood or something. Until you make larger items that actually start consuming alot of materials I just give it a flat rough cost on materials.
I use the small circular sanding pad on the drill press. It allows me to get into the small places but gives much more stability.
Guess I need a drill press!
I've been making catch-all trays for about two years now... thank you for this - newbie or vet, there's lots to be gleaned from this video. 👊
Thanks you and thanks for watching!
Very helpful video. Thank you.
Here is a tip for getting rid of sharp corners on your profile vector. First select the vector, then choose the Offset Vectors tool. Make sure Delete original and Select boxes are selected. In the distance box, enter 1/2 your bit diameter. Select Outwards/Right and click the Offset button. Your old vector will be gone and a new vector will be selected. Now Select Inwards/Left and click Offset again. Your original vector will now be back in its place except the sharp corners will be rounded to fit your cutter.
Really appreciate you sharing all your hard earned insights! Thank you!
We appreciate you watching!
So many great tips in this video - I will probably be watching a few times - THanks!
I really appreciate it! Drop some questions in the comments if you have any. I try to respond to most of them.
I'm on my way to get my first cnc and all these details are really clear questions in my mind. Best luck to both of you.
I appreciate you watching
BEST video I've watched all month! Just got my CNC and I'm in full learning mode. You packed a ton of learning in this video! It's bookmarked for quick access! Thanks for all your videos and being willing to share your knowledge and experience! Heading to your web site now! Appreciate you both!!!!
T
We appreciate you!
Awesome vid. Gave great info. I have a Shapeoko 3XXL and S03 Standard. Been doing and learning since black friday 2019. Myself and my son are just now finishing moving our cnc’s from a corner area in my car hobby area to a 40x28 wood dedicated bay. New power, floor layout and hopefully 10 times better production. We are making Cannabis Cleaning Trays. Since our state it’s legal why not get on the band wagon? If stoners pay $50 for cheap Chinese stamped steal trays with a Vynil wrap that are paying $60-$80 for our Cherry or Walnut trays. Also, up sale laser images on trays. Have designs from basic rectangle to options of stainless steel ashtray inserted in wood. Maybe even a small 3d stl carve on it somewhere. A very nice profit margin. 😊
Heck yeah! Thats awesome, finding a niche is key, you can definitely get a premium that way. Glad it’s working out for you 🤌🏼🤌🏼
One thing I like to do for stability is take plain sawn wood, then rip it into strips, then flip them 90° so you get quarter sawn wood and glue up those blanks. The quarter sawn wood is more stable.
Great tip! Agreed
@@TwoMooseDesign😅😅😅😅😅😅i
Nice video some great tips so I don't have any excuses to not fire up the old CNC & get going! Thanks
Thanks! I appreciate it! Dooooo it, it’s definitely intimidating to try and come up with ideas. Just start making and something will click!
One of the better videos I've seen for someone starting out & completely new to cnc. Really enjoyed this and learned from someone who has become successful in this industry. Thank you. 👍
Thank you! I appreciate you watching. 𝙲𝙽𝙲 is definitely not just pushing a button. It takes a lot of practice to learn the machine and then the wood itself if you don’t have prior experience in woodworking.
@TwoMooseDesign I worked for the largest Defense contractor in the U.S. doing CAD before being laid off doing COVID. I don't believe it would take me too long to pick this up. However, I'm someone who learns by doing things "hands on" and can't find a quick two day class to get me started. Please keep the videos coming. I have a lot of great ideas.
@@theebalz you defiantly got this! With that level of cad you'll pick it up quick
Great video. You talked about your finish pass going beyond the line. What I learned is when you set the starting point on the finish pass as the depth of the of the roughing pass, it thinks it is the first pass as the narrowest part of the bit so it goes further. You are better off running the finish pass as a start at board surface with a depth of cut at your finish depth so the software knows you are finish depth and proper width. Say roughing pass is .35 and your finish pass is .38, set your start at the surface and your depth of cut to .38 without a ramp in. Might be something to try and possibly make a video with what you learn. I think everyone has the same issue. I wish the software would build that in so it just goes from roughing pass to finish pass with adjusted step over per your specs. Love the work you do. Working up the nerve to do inlay like you do.
Ahhhhhhhhh that makes sense, I’ll
Definitely hop in there and mess around with that. Appreciate the tip!
Thanks for watching! Whats the best CNC tip you've received?
I'm just getting started with CNCs, this was SUPER helpful for me. Currently, I'm in the learning phase and feel overwhelmed.
You're not alone! People on the internet make cncs look easy. THEY ARE NOT! I tell people to expect a 6 month learning curve. Theres alot to learn from differnet materials, Bits, Software, the machine, ect. Its a lot at once, take your time and try and enjoy it. start with some easy stuff and work you way up. We do sell files with plans on our website that can help learn as they include what bits to use in the plans and such. Watch some youtube videos and dont beat yourself up, you got this!
Great video and great tips for new woodworkers Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching I appreciate it 🙏🏼
Great nuggets of information. Definitely will be tweaking to make my items more personalized.
It helps a ton, a majority of the items we’ve sold over the years revolved around personalization. It was a series of the same items that could be personalized, if you get too many or go to broad it gets hard to streamline. Then as others gained popularity with higher margins we’d cut the lesser items that took more time or resources to make.
Great video. I especially like that you mentioned specialty hobbies or pets
Thanks for watching I appreciate it
Hi, nice informative video. a recommendation- keeping the direction of the bit path against the material, would give a better finish. For example, when cutting the outer surface/edges of a round tray, it would be better to direct the path counterclockwise, and for the inner surface, in a clockwise direction.
About the epoxy, if it's a small piece, you can place it on a far corner and save its position for after the curing. And do another pass with the cnc afterwards, to avoid sanding.
Cheers
I live on a lake and you are correct, they are big sellers. The sanding detail of a lake tray would take forever. You could round off the sharp edges, but I wonder if that would be a take away from the lake design?
On something like that I would probably be more cautious and you could most likely get a decent idea in the preview mode if it takes away from it or not.
Thanks for sharing some great information, new sub here for sure! I've had my CNC about a year and always learning, Thanks again for sharing.
Thank you I appreciate it. And I’ve had one 5 years or so and still always learning too 👊🏼👊🏼
Very informative video. Well done, thank you
Thanks for watching, i appreciate it
Some excellent tips in here, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
I've been using a mop sander to sand my trays. I can usually get a tray done in 3 to 5 minutes, and it's usually a really smooth feel.
I’ll have to Google that! Thanks for the tip
@TwoMooseDesign I don't know if you have a klingspore close to you or not. But that's where I got mine from. They have 6 and 4 inch. And a 4 inch sanding star.
I don’t! But I order paper from there so I’ll definitely check thanks!
Awesome Video Very nice explanation. Thank you for sharing. Got me hooked on the Onefinity CNC.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it
Another banger video!! Great job❤❤
Thanks! I appreciate it!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Regarding glueing , does this make the product weaker and does hot water affect it if people wash in hot water .🤔
Great video
Love your videos Jeff, just curious on the pricing part, you didn't mention material costs, are you marking your cost up and adding that to the price as well?
Another good vid! I have a question about pricing. You talk about machine time and labor time, how do you account for materials ( wood, finishes, sandpaper etc)?
Hey! Thanks for watching! If it’s just a simple catch all tray 5-$10 is plenty for those. I’ve mostly made mine from scraps so it’s not something I’ve accounted for and the amount of oil I would use for one tray would be like less than .50. To figure out board feet if you are using lumber from a lumber supplier and not a big box store do length X width X thickness divided by 144. So a 10x10 tray is just over .5 board foot. An expensive hardwood would be $5 and a cheaper hard wood would be around $2-3 for a 10x10” tray
Milwaukee is coming out with a M12 3" orbital... can use cubitron extract. Much like their fine detail sander... game changers. Also... buy an 8mm collet for your spindle... then buy the 8mm x 40 mm Carbide bit and and the 15mm x 15mm 3 flute carbide clearing bit from a Shaper Origin dealer. Thank me later.
Thanks for the video, I'd say your prices are giving at the end are the whole sale price. The retail price should ideally be double to allow for website, stall, advertising, marketing or retailers margin.
I agree you should absolutely get more
Terrific overview! I imagine you've upgraded to Vectric Ver 12?
I have not I’m still at 11.5
What's that vapor machine running in the back? Pardon my ignorance. lol
How do you factor in the cost of your materials + the time to prep materials, especially if it's strips of wood glued?
Use a stopwatch to figure out roughly how long it takes you then add a little bit of time. Also a majority of what I used to make these when I sold them was scraps from other items customers already paid for so the “scraps” were pretty much free so I never paid much attention to it. But learn how to calculate board foot, it’s a simple equation to know how much wood you’re using. For example a 8x8 tray out of walnut I would assume the piece is 10x10x1” and at $9 a BF would cost me $6.25. That’s an expensive wood so typically it would be 1/3 of that cost but again I made them out of wood that would have been given away or burned. In the end if your numbers don’t add up they might not be worth your time or make sense for you to make them if you can’t get $40-$80+ a tray. Always time yourself on new items what you might think is 10 minutes might be 30 and on a small item that adds up quick, batches is key for this small stuff.
Which one infinity model and options do you suggest?
Hey Jeff awesome video! One question. The finish you ended up using was the tung oil correct? Your process for that was lather them up, can be real thick. Let it sit 12hrs then buff off. Am I right about that?
Yep! You don’t have to let it sit that long. I typically do them in the afternoon and just wipe them off in the morning. A few hours would probably be fine. And thanks! I appreciate it 😁
@@TwoMooseDesign thank you! I appreciate the clarification!
Question: would buying bulk cutting boards from alibaba bring down the cost? Did you ever consider this approach?
Sure maybe, but personally no since I already had a majority of the woodworking tools. Odds are most of those items are pretty low quality. A lot of the ones I’ve seen or the boards in sale at Home Depot look rough or low quality wood. I just don’t want to put my name on a low end product. If you could find a trusted source I’m sure it would save time and or money.
What CNC machine do you use?
I don’t use double sided tape anymore. Just 18g brads in each corner.
That works pretty good too, same with the screws it leaves the little mounds you gotta shave off. I’ve always wanted to try the composite nailers, I’ve heard good things just a little pricey.
Hi guys I have the x50 journeyman (still with Makita router)what is you speeds and feeds you run your bowl bit at I have the same bit and it takes me longer to pocket then you do thanks
For the bowl bit i believe I ran it with the makita at 100ipm .15 depth, ramped in and makita at 3
Thanks so much. luv your videos (can't wait to upgrade to spindle). Thanks again
Hey bro I’m new to cnc when making a bowl or tray I hate to change bits but I understand that u have to sometimes I’m having a tuff time learning how to reset the zero after changing bit please help thx Jody.
I would use a probe as it can set zero for you or just use a 1/4” Downcut for the whole thing, it will just take longer.
Did you forget about cost of raw ma materials? That $100 food tray at the end is quite a bit of wood.
Yeah I would personally get more for it than a $100. It was just an example. The wood was scraps but it would have cost $10, cherry is relatively affordable.
Hi i need to order some file from you can you send me link to see so that i can select some to place order?
check out our website! www.twomoosedesign.com
Maybe I've just been lucky but I've made hundreds of catch all trays from a single piece of wood and have never had them warp.
That’s great! As long as they are not overly wide and the wood is dry it will most likely be fine. Probably dried wood is key.
id love to start these but living in th UK i got no chance, they would just laugh if i said £20
Then you could try the online market. I personally know nothing about the market in the UK so it’s hard to help or give advice. I personally couldn’t get any of the prices I was asking when I started, I then started selling on Etsy and Shopify and that’s where 95% of our sales came from. Almost nothing local.
Matthew’s bow??
Yep halon 6 and vxr 34” lol
Nice.. great videos. I’m a boxing coach by trade but looking to get into a machine for my wood shop. Great videos
How about mineral oil?
Mineral oil is just totally fine, it just loses its luster pretty quick.
Pricing - you talked about time, but no mention of material costs?
I used scraps from other projects when I sold these so I didn’t consider it much as they are smaller items. But the average catch all is 8x8 and even in expensive wood like walnut it’s less than $5 a tray. The multi pocket serving tray was like $8 in cherry. I would crank out large batches and sell them for $60-$100 each. You could really nickel and dime the finish and cost of the bit life but on something like this it’s not worth the head ache. Figure out a rough number ($5-10) and don’t stress it unless you’re using crazy expensive wood like zebra wood or something. Until you make larger items that actually start consuming alot of materials I just give it a flat rough cost on materials.
Don't forget the material cost.