Great video! One thing to note is that points gap effects timing in the opposite direction, it's not intuitive until you think about it. The spark fires when the points open, moving the fixed point away ( wider gap ) advances the spark, while a tighter gap retards the spark. If the muffler is still hot, maybe experiment with a slightly wider gap to advance spark.
This video shows how we all can have problems sometimes that we do have to chase down one thing at a time. Been there done that. The fun stuff with all the frustrations and headaches!!!
Words of wisdom, I always use paper money to wipe the points contacts. I've noticed sometimes those have a film on 'em & the higher the value the better the saw runs!
I deleted my first comments, couldn't resist making comments as the video progressed, but by the end you had covered most of what I had to say. But I did want to say thanks for the entertainment, although it has been a strain on you. Ya know that saw looks like an XL12 with a big bore engine stuffed in it. That they were in production for only two model years is telling. Your comments and revelation of Homelite documents in this second video was a game changer for my understanding and thinking about the problems with this saw. In short it is a pretty little beast, but probably not a saw on which you can rely to do hard work, at least not as it was. There is a problem with heat generation in that big bore that cannot easily be managed as the saw was built. Your discovery of the flywheel revision was a big help, but the question remains as to will it be enough. I have observations to offer, the saw needs to be squeaky clean in air passages, the bit of crud that showed up after installing the new flywheel would make me dig deep into the saw and be sure it is totally cleaned out. The muffler seems problematic. For the lower energy producing XL12 or even the SXL it is not a problem, but with the bigger engine that muffler is a giant air flow blocker that interferes with heat dissipation. Maybe a fabricated stand off to distance the muffler from the cylinder would allow much improved air flow and still be attractive. The carb jet enlargement was a good idea and what ever you can do for improved air flow. A guy has to take for granted that the timing is not too advanced, that will lead to much more heat. Only way to tell is to degree wheel it with a static timing light set up and then it comes down to having to place confidence in the Homelite designed 16 degree advance as being "right" for that saw. It is going in reverse, but to get this saw to be a runner that would last might take a guy down the road of retarding timing and even adding a base gasket to reduce compression. These moves of course are for the most part counter productive to performance which is what you are after. It would be interesting to see how the saw would perform in a severe cold snap. Have a cold one and relax some, you hung in there for a long and tedious fight.
New out of box defective parts are the hardest things to troubleshoot by far as i have been a industrial mechanic for over 30 years and small engines for 23 years
Great video Leon you took time and work though the problems that could be and I understand how things just happen to these saws but I still love the old homelites I always enjoy you videos I work different homelites most every day
I would get ahold of a .16 mfd cap rated for 600v and try it, ground lead goes to chassis and positive goes to terminal. When i make the atom brown modules a capacitor is part of circuit to act as the condensor. If it works seal it up with heatshrink
Nice video! I agree that running the vintage saws are fun, and watching you run yours is cool, but where lugging a saw like this one up a hill to do actual work makes less sense to me than taking a modern, faster, more powerful, dependable, and lighter saw up that same hill.
There's a degree of fun in chainsaw work, but when there is work to get done, I want to get it done. Fun is working them, but is not actual work. If your lugging it up the hill to play with it, I can get that for sure. I'm looking forward to that video.@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair
There is a way to adjust the timing; you probably know this Leon. It isn't something one would do without knowing what you are doing, and with a very good reason, to make this modification. The parts are actually manufactured for this purpose, for some engines. You may need to make your own. Basically it is a key for the flywheel and shaft, that has an offset. Simple, but must be correct. I d not recall now where I saw one of these. Oh yeah, the point gap and spark plug gaps slightly adjust the timing. Remembered this watching you tracking down the issue.
Had a tractor like that with points ignition. wouldn't throttle up. Changed fuel system, carb, points, the checked the condenser, yup, reading way too low!
First super xl I had when I was 16 back in the day 1987 I ran it for 4 years finely one day started boiling gas acting like it was vaper locking finely after it was to late the oil I was useing unmixed don't know if you remember the oil it was crc brand come in a tin pull top can and old saw guy ask me what oil was I using I told him he said that was the problem it burned it up
Why would never set the points using a feeler gauge, you cannot eyeball them, unless you are super chainsaw man? I have eyeballed them as well when i have not had a set of feeler gauges on hand
Ive seen some new knock off (counterfeit) Zama fuel filters that have a paper element inside. Once wet with fuel, these filters dissolve allowing the paper fiber to travel up the fuel line which of course plugs the screen in the carb. If you somehow got into these, you just have to clean everything out and switch over to a double cotton Walbro filter. The Walbro filters are individually packaged. Buy them from Walbro or a trusted partner like Stens.
Great video! One thing to note is that points gap effects timing in the opposite direction, it's not intuitive until you think about it. The spark fires when the points open, moving the fixed point away ( wider gap ) advances the spark, while a tighter gap retards the spark. If the muffler is still hot, maybe experiment with a slightly wider gap to advance spark.
Thank you, I was thinking of it backwards!
This video shows how we all can have problems sometimes that we do have to chase down one thing at a time. Been there done that. The fun stuff with all the frustrations and headaches!!!
Words of wisdom, I always use paper money to wipe the points contacts. I've noticed sometimes those have a film on 'em & the higher the value the better the saw runs!
Love that puller that leaves the pawls in place!!!
I deleted my first comments, couldn't resist making comments as the video progressed, but by the end you had covered most of what I had to say. But I did want to say thanks for the entertainment, although it has been a strain on you. Ya know that saw looks like an XL12 with a big bore engine stuffed in it. That they were in production for only two model years is telling. Your comments and revelation of Homelite documents in this second video was a game changer for my understanding and thinking about the problems with this saw. In short it is a pretty little beast, but probably not a saw on which you can rely to do hard work, at least not as it was. There is a problem with heat generation in that big bore that cannot easily be managed as the saw was built. Your discovery of the flywheel revision was a big help, but the question remains as to will it be enough. I have observations to offer, the saw needs to be squeaky clean in air passages, the bit of crud that showed up after installing the new flywheel would make me dig deep into the saw and be sure it is totally cleaned out. The muffler seems problematic. For the lower energy producing XL12 or even the SXL it is not a problem, but with the bigger engine that muffler is a giant air flow blocker that interferes with heat dissipation. Maybe a fabricated stand off to distance the muffler from the cylinder would allow much improved air flow and still be attractive. The carb jet enlargement was a good idea and what ever you can do for improved air flow. A guy has to take for granted that the timing is not too advanced, that will lead to much more heat. Only way to tell is to degree wheel it with a static timing light set up and then it comes down to having to place confidence in the Homelite designed 16 degree advance as being "right" for that saw. It is going in reverse, but to get this saw to be a runner that would last might take a guy down the road of retarding timing and even adding a base gasket to reduce compression. These moves of course are for the most part counter productive to performance which is what you are after. It would be interesting to see how the saw would perform in a severe cold snap. Have a cold one and relax some, you hung in there for a long and tedious fight.
Wow that is one beautiful saw!
New out of box defective parts are the hardest things to troubleshoot by far as i have been a industrial mechanic for over 30 years and small engines for 23 years
Great video Leon you took time and work though the problems that could be and I understand how things just happen to these saws but I still love the old homelites I always enjoy you videos I work different homelites most every day
Looks like you got it going your way, nice what hard work and dedication accomplished.
I would get ahold of a .16 mfd cap rated for 600v and try it, ground lead goes to chassis and positive goes to terminal. When i make the atom brown modules a capacitor is part of circuit to act as the condensor. If it works seal it up with heatshrink
Looking forward to the Hill video
good vid,good call,good kid?.....keep em coming,thanks!
Nice video! I agree that running the vintage saws are fun, and watching you run yours is cool, but where lugging a saw like this one up a hill to do actual work makes less sense to me than taking a modern, faster, more powerful, dependable, and lighter saw up that same hill.
I gotta agree with the other guy...I'd rather lug this one, warts and all!
There's a degree of fun in chainsaw work, but when there is work to get done, I want to get it done. Fun is working them, but is not actual work. If your lugging it up the hill to play with it, I can get that for sure. I'm looking forward to that video.@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair
There is a way to adjust the timing; you probably know this Leon. It isn't something one would do without knowing what you are doing, and with a very good reason, to make this modification. The parts are actually manufactured for this purpose, for some engines. You may need to make your own. Basically it is a key for the flywheel and shaft, that has an offset. Simple, but must be correct.
I d not recall now where I saw one of these.
Oh yeah, the point gap and spark plug gaps slightly adjust the timing. Remembered this watching you tracking down the issue.
Had a tractor like that with points ignition. wouldn't throttle up. Changed fuel system, carb, points, the checked the condenser, yup, reading way too low!
Funny that anyone would like to tell you what to do.. I mean you are the saw guru!
My thoughts exactly! 😉
I'm always open to suggestions, especially when I'm stumped on something!
Cant wait to see you try it in the wood again
First super xl I had when I was 16 back in the day 1987 I ran it for 4 years finely one day started boiling gas acting like it was vaper locking finely after it was to late the oil I was useing unmixed don't know if you remember the oil it was crc brand come in a tin pull top can and old saw guy ask me what oil was I using I told him he said that was the problem it burned it up
Could u do a video showin how to measure the bote on 1 of these please?
Put a carb on from one of your known good running super xl or xl automatic or xl 400 etc
i got a xl12 never seen xl 500 before
I've had spark plugs brake down after getting hot just about drove me crazy
Capacitor misfiring, kill switch wire shorting out? Spark plug wire not connecting well to plug???
Is there any chance that the points gap is the same for all XL-12's, XL Automatics...Canadian versions?
If you ever get it running good and broke in, likely compression will come up more
It starts out like Romeo and Juliet but then turns to tragedy
Why would never set the points using a feeler gauge, you cannot eyeball them, unless you are super chainsaw man? I have eyeballed them as well when i have not had a set of feeler gauges on hand
Ive seen some new knock off (counterfeit) Zama fuel filters that have a paper element inside. Once wet with fuel, these filters dissolve allowing the paper fiber to travel up the fuel line which of course plugs the screen in the carb. If you somehow got into these, you just have to clean everything out and switch over to a double cotton Walbro filter. The Walbro filters are individually packaged. Buy them from Walbro or a trusted partner like Stens.
Thank s
well it sounds better log test and see how it goes /////// she got advance now
Yeah, seeing 10,500 on the tach gives me real hope!
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair grunt pulls the chain RPM is just speed
My xl1 blue boils the gas not sure why everything is clean
Great video,do you think the excessive heat caused the condenser to fail?
Very possible, but since the fuel didn't boil, I'm not sure how hot that side of the engine got...just very hard to say!
Definitely spark plug cheap, replace that, never know, i am mechanic and it really throws you for a loop when a brand new part is bad
The sped up portion of the video is making me fotflmao