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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- Step b step guide to tuning up your Honda lawn mower. (spark plug, air filter, and oil change.) All this should be done at the begging of every season. Parts and numbers, tools required, and prices are in the video. Any questions or comments leave them below I'll get back to you.
![[UNCUT] ขยี้ "อลิส" ปม "คลิปลับแตงโม" เปิดชื่อคนพยายามแฮก "มือถือแตงโม" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์I 10ก.พ.68](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_RPLEIi5Sz8/mqdefault.jpg)
I have the same Mower and it works great. The one issue I am running into is difficulty with Warm Starts. Have you ran into this issue? When I cold start the mower it fires up first try. After cutting for a bit, if I need to stop for a moment and kill the engine, starting it back up is very difficult. I need to pull start about 10 times. Its a chokeless mower so I assume that the issue revolves around that. Any thoughts? Thank you and appreciate the videos!
There are two possible Issues taking place. The first would be a symptom called vapor lock in which the temperature of the engine is affecting the fuel in a way which makes it difficult to start. In that specific set up I would try opening your fuel cap halfway to allow air to be pulled into the fuel system via the fuel tank and might allow the engine to start easier due to sometimes the fuel caps are not vented properly.
Make sure you are using the proper oil to keep the engine running at proper temperature change the spark plug and if you still have a problem then the carburetor itself should be taken off and completely broken down and cleaned properly. The needle and seat in the bowl of the carburetor might not be sitting properly and this will have to be inspected and cleaned to ensure excess fuel is not being pulled into the combustion chamber from leftover vacuum when the engine was running.
Another option you could try is to turn off the fuel valve which goes from the gas tank to the engine and let the engine burn out the excess fuel before you stop mowing your lawn. Then you can simply open the fuel valve and begin mowing again as normal
Mine does the same thing!
@@davelehl366 try what I wrote and let me know if it helps.
I have that issue. It often happens on purposeful restarts (moving the hammock/sticks) or stalls.
Pull it backwards 8-12 feet, then forward 2-3 feet.
I think it's leftover vacuum MrV2u mentioned. Maybe it's the choke.
But this back 10 feet, forward 2 seems to make it much easier to restart. Even my wife can then restart it.
Sounds like back pressure from overhead valves or the drive belt is still engaged making it difficult to turn over the engine
Sometimes the valves stop in a position so the flywheel is hard to move or
By moving the mower your turning the flywheel if the drive belt is still engaged
Great demonstration and easy to follow. I paid to have mine serviced this year but this is so easy im going to do next year. Thank you!!!
If you have any questions next year I’m always around for advice. You got this my sister. Thanks for the feedback.
Straight to the point and informational, how all how-to's should be.
Thanks much brother. Try my best to be straight up, no frills.
Thank you so much, that's our mower and I think we need a tune up. So easy. They charge quite a bit to tune up our mower. We truly appreciate you sharing your knowledge!!!
Your very welcome Jane. These mowers are very good with a strong motor. Stay on top of the maintenance and they will last forever.
Thanks!
I truly appreciate the feedback. Thanks for the support and if you have any questions I’m always around for advice.
Now by Honda in the UK sounds as sweet as yours in the USA after following your video, thanks
Good to hear my friend. Thanks for the feedback. Who would have thought my video could reach out and help in the UK. 👍🏽
So good, my brother. I waited until I ran out of gas to change the oil. Should've looked at this before I did that! Great video!
Glad I could help you brother. Thanks for the feedback.
Hi! Awesome instructions. I did it all on my own. You gave me a lot of confidence. Thank you very much!
I’m so glad I could help you brother. Glad it turned out well for you as well.
ty, i got the same model and i switching out the blades and giving it a tune up. this is very informative
Glad to have helped my friend. If the blade spins on you when your swapping them out use a vise grip to lock the blade in place. Makes it easier.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I have the same exact mower and want to do the maintenance work myself instead of taking it to a mechanic who may try to rip me off because I’m a female. Just subscribed 👍
Lee de Ibarra your very welcome. It’s not that hard to do and you really don’t need much in tools to do the job.
Good video, thanks for making it. Nice clean and easy instructions to follow. Really appreciate it.
Ian Dalhuisen thanks for the feedback. I try my best.
Good video. He makes it easy to understand with showing.
I really appreciate it brother. Glad I could help.
Good simple video.. Also your mower from that day looked very good well treated... 👍
I try to take care of the machine so it can last years to come brother. Money doesn’t come easy so it’s worth doing preventative maintenance on them every year in my opinion. Thanks for the feedback brother.
Thanks for creating this. Im excited to try this all out next season
Your very welcome brother. Good luck !
@@MrV2u Did you put the video out on how to replace the blades?
Sam Howard maybe in a couple weeks. It’s not hard to do, I got it on my to do list lol! Good suggestion brother.
@@MrV2u Good deal. Thank you!
@@MrV2u Hello friend! It's about that time of year to try this out. I plan on following your tips in this video this weekend on my mower. Thanks again for your help!
Also check the blade and scrape the bottom of the deck. I use a dry spray lubricant on all the cables too. Spray it in the top of the cable housing and also where the cables meet the engine or transmission. When I wash the mower I try not to get water down inside the cables.
Good idea brother thanks for the advice. Will do next season.
Great video, my only criticism is that per the owner's manual, you aren't supposed to screw the dipstick back in when checking the oil level.
Thanks for the feedback and the criticism. It’s what helps us all grow together.
Great video to learn by! I have 2 more things I want to do to mine and haven’t a clue how… change the rear tires (they’re bald! 😂) and the kit I got from Amazon has a fuel filter as well.
I don’t have any videos on swapping the tire or fuel filter. I sold my mower last year. Sorry brother or I would have made a video for you.
Very useful easy to follow video, thank you man!
Thanks for the feedback brother. I try to make it as easy as possible.
Synes du var flink jeg. Supert. Ha en fin dag.
Tak for feedback min ven. Hav en velsignet dag.
Thanks for your instructions! Really helped.
Christopher Tritt I’m glad to have helped bro. Let me know how you make out or if you have any further questions.
MrV2u I will let you know tomorrow! It’s my Dad’s equipment, so I want to do a good job.
Christopher Tritt you got this job in the bag. Good luck 👍🏽
Hello my friend 💖 Great video, big thumbs up 😊 Always full supported , best wishes for you ❤️Thank you for nice sharing😊💚
DHV VLOG your very welcome. I’m glad you enjoyed the video and thanks so much for the kind words. If you ever have any questions I’m always around for advice.
Thank you for this video!!!
You got it my friend. Thanks for the support.
Thank you so much. I think I can do this with your help.you are awesome!!!
Krae you absolutely can. And if you hit a snag. Just got me up. I’ll do my best to answer your questions.
Thanks for the help good sir
Your very welcomed my friend. Glad to help.
Hi MrV2u! Can you or someone else tell me something - I have an urgent question! At the 2:41 minute mark on the video on the Honda GCV160 - above the red dot on your gas tube and below the upper red cover housing are 2 horizontal metal rods and under them a super thin wire travels along with one of the rods. That wire!! I don't know what it is called or what it does - but I really need to know what that wire should be attached to on its far left end - the curved fishhook end of it at the far left front of the mower, behind the black filter housing. I don't see it on any schematic. I accidentally touched something trying to get the mower started then realized the wire fishhook end was not attached to anything. I need to see a picture of what it goes to and how because I don't know a lot about these engines. But if someone could tell me, I would be so so grateful! Thank you in advance.
I think you’re talking about the throttle cable ? Take a picture and send it to me. Above the fuel line it’s all throttle linkage. Below is a small spring that controls the governor. I need more details. MrV2u@hotmail.com
@@MrV2u Yes, correct - the long Throttle Return Spring. Where should it be attached? the end towards the front of the GCV160 mower. It became disconnected and I can't tell what it should attach to.
Nice video. I have the same one I use it once a week. So I have to do this type of maintenance just once a year and it will be enough?
Thanks brother. I would do it once a season to be safe. It also depends on how many hours the motor is running.
MrV2u thank you 👍
This is great; thank you! I don't suppose you have a video on changing the start cord? I need to do that too. Thanks!
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Addendum: never mind about the pull cord. I figured it out.
Will Berkley I don’t have a video at the moment for changing the start cable. If I have to swap it out I’ll definitely post it up for you brother. It’s not a hard job to do at all.
I ran into a few issues last summer when my lawn mower was brand new. When I would pull start it when already warm, it would sometimes release huge backfires. Almost blew my eardrums out! Any ideas?
First thing I’d do is change the spark plug and make sure it’s gapped to 0.025-0.030. Honda plugs aren’t that great to begin with. If that doesn’t work check the carburetor. Last you can take off the over head valve cover and make sure the lifter rods are tightened and the gap is proper.
Thanks
Your very welcome my friend.
I always run the mower 5 minutes to heat the oil before draining.....gets all the crap out. Then wait for 1/2 hr before putting "cool" oil back in. Keeps from possible damage from the oil cool temp against hot engine components.
Good idea brother.
Honda have any pre gaped plugs for sale? Like NGK? Thank you!
Not that I’m aware of, but even if they say they do I’d always recommend double checking the gap. It’s not really that hard to gap spark plugs and doesn’t cost much in a gauge.
MINES SEEMS TO RUN SLOW? THE MOWER MOTOR SEEMS TO ALWAYS RUN AT IDLE SPEED? CAN YOU MAKE IT RUN A LITTLE FASTER?
These motors are self adjusting. It shouldn’t go out of adjustment. Is the grass super tall?
Are these pretty strong and reliable? Just need something for like a 30x30 yard.
Dc2 Honda motors are very reliable. You change the oil once a season and tune them up every season or other season and they won’t let you down brother.
Very helpful. Thank you!
Your very welcome brother.
Well done video. Thanks
Glad to have helped my friend. If you have any further questions I’m always around for advice.
How did you crank it with the gas switch off?
I’m a magician brother lol. There is always gas in the lines unless you lock off the tank and crank it till it doesn’t start.
@@MrV2u My carburetor is shot I believe. I changed dumped the gas and oil for new and all it does is crank and goes immediately dead.
@@DarrenWulfen go to advanced auto and buy a bottle of k100. Pour some in the tank and try again. It raises the octane level and it might be enough to get it started. If that doesn’t work you might have a gummed needle valve in the carb. But I’m sure the k100 will do the trick. Let me know how you make out.
Nice video with easy to follow instruction. One question on the spark plug: are they other plugs that fits into the Gcv 160 model?
You can use any brand. Take your old one out and have them match it up for you.
Can you explain the gapping tool for the spark plug to me?
It’s just a tool that makes sure the spark plug probe is open to the correct measurements required. The opening dictates how much of a spark is fired off. You can find one at any auto store. Just find the correct measurement on the tool and press the spark plug in and make sure it’s not to wide or narrow. Does that help?
@@MrV2u which part of the spark plug would I make sure has the right gap?
The gap where it looks like a bent finger. The tip of the probe
I am going nuts i have a honda GCV 160 lawn mower and i replaced all the god dam parts to included cleaning out the carb... and the dam thing still turns on then shuts off WTF am i missing...
Troubleshooting steps i done.
New sparks
New filter
Adjusted Governor
Cleaned out carburetor
Cleaned flute holes in the fuel injectors
New gas
New gas cap
New oil
New heat sensor pin thingie
I mean what am i doing wrong
@@firstphoton655 Run the machine with the gas cap loose . Don’t tighten it down . Those caps are know to cause vapor lock after a couple minutes it can’t suck fuel through because the breather in the cap is not designed right. Let me know if that helps.
@@MrV2u didnt =0( same issue
@firstphoton655 did you change out the governor spring when you adjusted the governors RPM’s? Those engines had a recall on the spring.
Right below the throttle screw there is a #2 Phillips screw . Take it out. Brake cleaner and a small steel wire.
If you took the carb off maybe you didn’t put the gaskets on right and no way will that engine run.
My CRV160 is running much quieter than usual, seems weaker, idles lower. Any idea what"s wrong?
Check your throttle cable and make sure it’s tight and connected from the handle to the carburetor. If that’s ok then you might have to remove the bowl and get to the jet and clean it all out. You might have debris inside. It start with the cable first brother.
how often do you have to change the spark plug???
I change it every other season.
Just one question. Does that brand spark plug already come gapped? I just put it in the way it came.
E3 Lawn & Garden plugs are gapped at the factory, but may require some adjustment to meet your O.E. engine requirements. I ran mine the way it came and it’s perfect.
Great video 👍
Very much appreciated brother. Let me know how you make out on your tune up.
I don't believe the dipstick should be screwed in to check the oil level. Unscrew it, wipe clean then insert until it stops WITHOUT screwing it in, check oil and then only screw it back in when done checking.
Thanks for the tip brother. I’m sure your comment will help people out as well.
That is correct, many people are not putting the 12 ounces in because when you screw the dipstick in it shows full when its not! 4 ounces short.
@@MrV2u It's true that you are not supposed to screw in the dipstick when checking the level. Spec for my GCV160 GJAEA is 0.58 qt. I found that 16 oz. fills it precisely during an oil change. Not convinced that you drained yours well. At 5:22 it looks overfull and yet you only added 12 oz. I think it should rest on two wheels (not one) when draining.
You don't have to pay out that much and use the Honda brand items, especially the oil. Could probably come close to cutting your cost in half on each item. And you don't need a new plug every year. The main things are oil and filter changes.
@@wryanddry2266 your correct brother. I always double check my levels, not always showing it on camera. But it topped off and you should check it with the dipstick loose.
Fuel Filter?
Some have them some don’t. Mine didn’t have one, normally they are on the side, inline with the fuel lines.
Thank you
What tune up kit do you suggest? I see some kits on Amazon from $20-50
www.homedepot.com/p/Honda-Tune-Up-Kit-for-GC-GCV-Engines-670365-TUK929/204144337
This is a link for the kit I used from Home Depot. Genuine Honda parts. Let me know how you make out.
@@MrV2u thank you so much! I didn't know there were kits available and this is much more cost efficient. I really appreciate this video. I was never thought how to do these things and you made me feel more confident.
Let me know how you make out or if you have any other questions, I’m always around for advice. Good luck and thanks for the feedback.
What about the carburetor?
Nothing to do with it unless your having issues.
Does the gap tool come with the spark plug?
No brother. You can get one from advance auto or auto zone for like $3.
Hi, excellent video my friend.
I have one cuestion.... I can use SAE 10W-30 Car Oil? Thank you.
Roberto Carlos Valdez Cantu you can use car oil no problem. Let me know how you make out brother.
l put 20w/50 oil. is it okay?
I'm in Nigeria. Africa.
I would drain the oil and put in 10w-30, so it last longer bro. That thick a oil in a Honda mower will shorten its life. Any more questions I’m around for advice.
@@MrV2u Thanks
Viva Christo Rey
Con Dios todo es posible.
Thank you.
@@seeker5398 you got it my friend.
I cant get mine to start after 2 seasons.
You might have a carburetor issue. Or a crack in a fuel line.
@@MrV2u cleaned both out.
@@MrV2u cracked rocker head!
It is not unusual for Honda GCV engines to break exhaust rocker arms, but there is always a reason, and it needs to be found.
When a rocker arm breaks there are two things to check for immediately.
The first is whether the valve is stuck. That is by far the most common reason for GCVs to break rocker arms, and it seems to be often associated with the engines being fitted to pressure washers. Water gets into a lot of the wrong places on pressure washer engines. A stuck valve is easily found and it will be obvious if that is the problem. Since this has been happening to you for a while and the engine has been running along the way, it seems unlikely that you have a fully and permanently stuck valve.
The second thing to check is that the valve will move as far as necessary. The valve lift is set by the camshaft and the rocker arm lever ratio, and on the GCV engines there is only one (usually plastic) cam lobe which operates both valves. Since you are not having any problems with the inlet rocker arm, chances are the problem is not with the camshaft. However, you still need to check whether the exhaust valve will freely open as far as necessary. I think the easiest way to do this, is to assemble the engine with (another) new rocker, not a cracked one, adjust the tappet clearance correctly, and rotate the crankshaft in the forward direction until the exhaust valve begins to open. Then, press down on the rocker directly above the valve, and note that the valve will open further. Rotate the engine further in small steps, checking at each step that the valve will still open further. The objective here is to see that the valve does not run out of available movement, even when the maximum lift position is reached. If it does run out of movement, when the engine runs the rocker arm will have to act as a flexible joint every time the valve opens, and it will soon fatigue and fail.
If you find there is insufficient valve movement to accommodate the full lift dictated by the camshaft, you know why your rockers are breaking and you just have to find what is causing the exhaust valve to have restricted travel. There are four obvious possible reasons. The first is that the valve guide has moved upward from its correct position. The second is that the valve has been adjusted with insufficient clearance, which has the effect of increasing the valve lift. The third is that the timing belt has jumped, and the head of the exhaust valve is hitting the piston, which limits its movement. The fourth is that there is incorrect assembly of the valve retainer, so that some part of the retainer system, or some additional component which should not be there, hits the valve guide and prevents full opening of the valve.
I know you have checked two of those four things (correct valve clearance, and correct belt timing), but if it is neither of the other two, I suggest you recheck. Then, if it is none of the four things, we are reduced to looking for unlikely problems such as a damaged or incorrectly machined cylinder head or rocker pivot, causing the rocker pivot geometry to vary when the engine is running. This is what I found. Maybe it’ll help you. Let me know. I’ve never rebuilt one, I got a friend that’s more versed in small engines.
When checking oil on a Honda engine DO NOT screw in the dip stick. Per Honda you need to just put the dip stick in and pull it out without screwing it in!!!
@@gpecci2253 thanks for the info my friend.
Pretty sure that’s not the way to drain the oil, usually there’s a 3/8 square bolt underneath the mower, you use a 3/8 ratchet and extension to remove it and put a drain pan underneath the mower
More than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for the tip brother.
Jason Peterson , the way he shows is the way the manual shows, and the easiest
Fanfeck thanks brother. Spot on!
You got it brother! If you have any questions I’m around for advice.
This is how the owners manual says to do it!
I just watched a mob boss doing lawnmower repairs
Lmao best comment ever my brother. Only made men can repair mowers like me.
@@MrV2u shhh. j. Edgar hoover is watching 🤣
@@jetrojackin3400 lol no lawns are safe.
Why do people call this a tune up when it’s just a service, your not tuning the engine to run faster, increase rpm etc.
I’m old school. A tune up is plugs, wires when needed and air filter. And in those rare cases points. Your not really going to “tune” this motor up unless you have issues.
Hi, excellent video my friend.
I have one cuestion.... I can use SAE 10W-30 Car Oil? Thank you.
Roberto Carlos Valdez Cantu for sure brother. 10w-30 is 10w-30 my friend.