Thanks. Probably one of the best explanation without relying on engineering terminologies. I learned more in a few minutes than an hour of class. Thank you.
New to trades/HVAC. Looking inside at the ‘guts’ of components is so very helpful and deeply satisfying. Having an education based on a series of truths informed by professionals with an aptitude for teaching is priceless. Thank you 🙏
sir ive experience about the smal hole above the diaphram, the hole smell like the gas flowing out, wasnt that hole suposed to be just the breather of the diaphram and no gas should pass thru there?
Thank you. I have learned a lot from you since I tried to understand and maintain my ~80 years old winter air conditioner. It has gas train control and regulators. Gas regulator, then gas solenoid valve. I replaced the diaphragm at gas solenoid valve last winter with diaphragm from leaf blower carburetor repair kit. It was completely dried and cracked. I suspect the diaphragm in the gas regulator is also about to fail. Since the bleeding vent pipe at pilot light is not on. (The pilot light has it’s own tube.)So I think it’s still intact. I changed wire to fan motor in summer. The insulation became brittle. Seems all parts are still original except fan motor control. I bought a combination valve to upgrade the gas train control system if any parts fail this winter or I will replace it in next summer.
great job sir you explained the regulator as i want and also as other people want the way you speak, indicate, zooming in and out is helpful thank you buddy
Excellent video! I believe the bleeder hole is also there to relieve the pressure on the top side of the diaphragm. When the diaphragm moves up there needs to be a bleed-off of the air above it. If this gets plugged up you can get valve chattering. Great job!
+grayfurnaceman Great video. We've got a project in Canada, many of regulators indoor installations, so we custom the bleeder part to threaded connection for through pipe, in case of the natural gas get indoor.
Your best repair is the combination gas valve. Cost will probably be the same. The valve usually comes with reasonably good instructions. Most important is the gas pressure setting. The reason I say it is probably 3/4" is the pipe is sized by interior size not outside.
If the regulator is separate from the rest of the gas chain, it can be replaced but the only source I use is an HVAC supply. There are some internet sources but I have not checked them out. It may be best to change the entire gas chain with a combination gas valve. Check out the Gas furnace playlist on grayfurnaceman on youtube. The may explain better than I can here. My guess is its 3/4 " pipe if it is residential. Parts are not availiable for regulators. Too many leak problems.
Thanks! These videos are amazing. I learn more when listening to you often times than when I do going to trade school. No offense to the trade school I attend, but you're just better.
Some regs have adjustments and some don't. If there is a screw slot under the cap it is. As for the weed burner and orifices, orifice sizes, pressures and BTU output are available on the web. Careful here, you are designing a burner and leaks or KABOOMS are possible. Propane is heavier than air and will build up in low spots. Not trying to tell you not to do it, but know your limits. The pressure washer vid will be done when and if I get a mule to do the vids on. GFM
thanks very much for the great video! it helped me a lot! i think u have a little mistake at time 4:11. you say that when the machine is closed there is zero pressure under the diaphragm but if it were true, the diaphragm would come down...
the diaphragm and shaft part of the regulator reminds me of the old mechanical fuel pumps on cars from the 1950s. some had two lobes one to pump the fuel and one to create a vacuum to run the windshield wipers.
grayfurnaceman LOL. not really, a friend and I were collecting and restoring 1940's / 1950's cars as a hobby. that is before his health started failing.. he taught me all I know about the old cars. for him it was from experience. so he passed this knowledge to me :) I have rebuilt a few.fuel pumps and carbsin th past. as you most likely know the old cars had plenty of elbow room under the hood for repair work. not like today's cars where you practically have to remove the engine and turn it upside down to change a damn spark plug Ha Ha Ha
Is there a fla me sensor on each burner?? And if they all acting alike - we can say that it is definitely the stove regulator-- what makes them go out - will I know when I change the regulator by UT's looks if it I' out! - thanks again!!
Awesome knowledge given by you, but it can be more accurate if you can add the law on which pressure regulator work. And you are also request to upload the video of diaphragm and turbine gas meter working principle. Thanks Amit Kumar
Regarding propane, I don tthink the PG regulator has an adjustalbe reg., unless it is under the cap. I am trying to make a weed burner with 5 or so orificies. Do you know if I can adjust the amount of gas or feeding the burners, if I use 42/100ths or 30/, by turning the screw in the PG reg. Can you do a vidio on a pressure washer accuator?
Great video. I’ve lived in this house for 7 years and my regulator has worked fine even with the temperature in the teens. This year when the temperature gets freezing it stops letting the adequate pressure of gas out. Once the temperature is above freezing, it works properly again. It has a covering around it with a lid, so I don’t think it’s getting water to it, and the water is freezing. Do you know what’s causing it to malfunction? Do you think it is corroded inside and when it freezes, it’s expanding a little, and the corrosion is not allowing it to slide properly?
My Kenmore stove is 9 years old. I can smell gas when stove is turned on. Ignitors work, light with a striker, and flame is very small, sometimes going out. It is like this on all burners. As I continue to light with a striker, the stove lights, and flame continuously accelerates, then is perfect. After which, all burners begin to light fine. do you think that my problem is the regulator?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, I do appreciate that. Full clear your video, and easy to understand. Do you have any info about how the gas convertion kits works? those used in gas engines of electric power plants?
these are great for flamethrowers when you need to keep a constant pressure while the volumes change and it wont overfill to the point that the tanks rupture
Do you have a tutorial for commercial gas ovens in a restaurant setting? I have a Southbend oven with two gas burners in the oven that shut off after a few minutes. The pilot remains on, just the burners in the over shut off, the 6 burners up on top stay on as long as i need them. Any ideas.
How often do the diaphragms wear out. They're pretty much a moving part right. Here in the UK medium pressure regulators are set to work at at max of 75 M/bar. They're designed to govern domestic dwellings at 22 Mb constant. They can only be replaced or adjusted by the energy service providers. What tests can you carry out on multifunction valves ( warm air units ). They're very common in Canada and America right? Is it thermocouple test, solenoid test & working pressure test? What other safety features do warm air and open flue boilers have? I really enjoy your videos. You explain very clearly. How do atmospheric sensing devices operate?🤔 Thanks
So if the gas cylinder is open and the cooking appliances are fired up and i close the stove top , dose that me the regulatore stops the has from flowing through to the stove
i may reduce the piping and go with a new regulator its an old Muller furnace if i could replace it with the same regulator it would be easier but that could be costly not sure what to do
GFM, Thank you, great video and long time subscriber to your channel. One aspect to a gas pressure regulator that I may have missed and seemingly can’t find an answer to is the “why”. I’m helping a friend add a gas range to his house. He has a gas regulator already installed on his line not far from the furnace and gas water heater. If the gas meter coming in to the house steps the pressure down and each appliance has their own valve, why would a gas pressure regulator be needed? Most homes including my own don’t have post meter gas pressure regulators installed. His does. I’m having a hard time understanding why. And if it’s possibly not necessary, I’d like to consider tapping into his gas line pre regulator to run his kitchen range as it would be more efficient to tap in pre regulator if advisable to do so. Thanks GFM!
The regulator at the meter reduces the line pressure to 8 in wc. Most appliances are designed for less than 4 in wc. Most gas valves in appliances have a built in regulator to make this change. Gas ranges usually do not have this regulator because the cooktop uses manual valves. As for the regulator on the gas line, if the house is very large with a long run from the meter, or has very large appliances, it may be supplied 2# gas. That regulator is there to reduce that pressure as the appliances can only accept the 8" wc. Hope this helps. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you GFM!! That’s the missing link. Very, very helpful. It is a relatively larger house and it makes sense that incoming pressure might be higher to account for pressure drop post meter. I was stumped and that is extremely helpful! Thank you SO much! I couldn’t find an explanation out there and you nailed it.
Thanks. Probably one of the best explanation without relying on engineering terminologies. I learned more in a few minutes than an hour of class. Thank you.
Awesome man! This is so far the best explanation. Real parts..no animation. Real feeling. Thanks
Welcome
GFM
I like the presentation of this video, the way the Reguulator is cut in half for the visual, very good.
Excellent explanation. Had difficulty grasping how it worked and instantly understood it after seeing this video.
Me too.
This was a great educational video.
Thank you
I'd always understood the principle, but not the actual mechanics. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
I wish I had a 10th of Grayfurnacemans knowledge. This guys videos always come through when I need to understand something technical.
New to trades/HVAC. Looking inside at the ‘guts’ of components is so very helpful and deeply satisfying. Having an education based on a series of truths informed by professionals with an aptitude for teaching is priceless. Thank you 🙏
Welcome
GFM
This video has been super helpful for my plumbing class. I needed a visual understanding just just verbal.
best explanation. once you said the valve "modulates" in between the closed and open position, it just clicked with me. thank you!
Bravo! It was so awesome to see the actual cross section of the regulator.
Excellent explanation. Thank you very much . I especially liked the explanation of the situation where the diaphragm breaks. Thank you again.
You are right! The pressure downstream will be enough to keep the diaphragm closed until the pressure drops. Thanks. I will do a correction video.
sir ive experience about the smal hole above the diaphram, the hole smell like the gas flowing out,
wasnt that hole suposed to be just the breather of the diaphram and no gas should pass thru there?
@@endurofan9854 There is a small amount of gas that bleeds out the hole for normal operation of the regulator.
GFM
That's the great thing about youtube. You can watch until it works. Thanks for the support.
GFM
Welcome
GFM
Yes i was watching watching until i poke the litle hole on top of regulator and nobody mentioned on 20 videos
To me this is the best explanation . Thank you.
Again, what great information. Learn something on your channel every day. Thank you.
Welcome
GFM
Thanks much. Seeing the internal working really helped make it super clear. Intuitive even. Much appreciated
What a good teacher, great explanation i won't forget this.
Thank you. I have learned a lot from you since I tried to understand and maintain my ~80 years old winter air conditioner. It has gas train control and regulators. Gas regulator, then gas solenoid valve. I replaced the diaphragm at gas solenoid valve last winter with diaphragm from leaf blower carburetor repair kit. It was completely dried and cracked. I suspect the diaphragm in the gas regulator is also about to fail. Since the bleeding vent pipe at pilot light is not on. (The pilot light has it’s own tube.)So I think it’s still intact. I changed wire to fan motor in summer. The insulation became brittle. Seems all parts are still original except fan motor control. I bought a combination valve to upgrade the gas train control system if any parts fail this winter or I will replace it in next summer.
Man, you post some great educational videos!! Thank you for taking the time to put this great material out there!!
great job sir
you explained the regulator as i want and also as other people want
the way you speak, indicate, zooming in and out is helpful
thank you buddy
Welcome
GFM
Thanks for taking time to make this video. Much appreciated.
+Swapnil P Welcome
GFM
Great video, easy to understand with great visuals....Thank you
Welcome
GFM
Thanks for the support
The small hole on the top side of the diaphragm is to control the opening and closing speed of the regulator. Informative video none the less.
Great video. Very thorough and professional!
Helpful video. I now know what's in these units. Using a gas stove without a regulator makes it clear what they are there for.
Very clear explanation in simple manner.thanks
Thanks for taking time to explain it to the dummies like me
Welcome
GFM
So simple love your explanation No need to get to technical straight forward the way I like it 👏
Dude in a quick video, you taught me better than my teacher did in my entire G2 course
Excellent cutaway and mechanical demonstration! Simple, yes, but the stuff that patents are made of.
Shannon Ware Yup. The simpler the better.
GFM
I’m installing myself a pressure regulator .. I hope all works well . Thanks for all the explanation.
Welcome
GFM
Thanks for the support.
GFM
I believe the fuel regulator on autos works the same way. If the diaphragm malfunctions the vehicle will run rich. Thanks for the great video
Excellent video! I believe the bleeder hole is also there to relieve the pressure on the top side of the diaphragm. When the diaphragm moves up there needs to be a bleed-off of the air above it. If this gets plugged up you can get valve chattering. Great job!
Rob Prebil You are correct. That reference to outside air pressure is necessary for proper operation.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman Great video. We've got a project in Canada, many of regulators indoor installations, so we custom the bleeder part to threaded connection for through pipe, in case of the natural gas get indoor.
Nicely explained
Great video on explaining how this gas regulator works!!!!
Your best repair is the combination gas valve. Cost will probably be the same. The valve usually comes with reasonably good instructions. Most important is the gas pressure setting. The reason I say it is probably 3/4" is the pipe is sized by interior size not outside.
Thank you for your detailed explanation!
Very nice explanation! Getting ready to convert from propane to natural gas, so I need to understand. thanks
Welcome
GFM
If the regulator is separate from the rest of the gas chain, it can be replaced but the only source I use is an HVAC supply. There are some internet sources but I have not checked them out. It may be best to change the entire gas chain with a combination gas valve. Check out the Gas furnace playlist on grayfurnaceman on youtube. The may explain better than I can here. My guess is its 3/4 " pipe if it is residential. Parts are not availiable for regulators. Too many leak problems.
Thanks! These videos are amazing. I learn more when listening to you often times than when I do going to trade school. No offense to the trade school I attend, but you're just better.
Probably not better, just a different way to show it. Thanks
GFM
Good video I would've loved to have seen this before I went to gas school
Some regs have adjustments and some don't. If there is a screw slot under the cap it is. As for the weed burner and orifices, orifice sizes, pressures and BTU output are available on the web. Careful here, you are designing a burner and leaks or KABOOMS are possible. Propane is heavier than air and will build up in low spots. Not trying to tell you not to do it, but know your limits. The pressure washer vid will be done when and if I get a mule to do the vids on.
GFM
thanks for the support
GFM
Very clear! Thousand thanks!
Welcome
GFM
Regulator vents must be piped outside or the regulator must be outside. The only exception I know of is regulators on gas valves. Hope this helps. GFM
Awesome video. Although I don't think I understood until the 5th time that the spring puts pressure down on that valve... got it now! ;)
this video is awesome ! I still can't believe you take apart this regulator haha
Awesome!! Thank you for your time & dedication! Greatly appreciated!!
Thank you for making this video
Welcome
GFM
You did a great 👍 job
Thanks, very well explaned and easy to understand.
Welcome
GFM
Great presentation thank you good Sir
Welcome
GFM
Hi, wonderfully explained, could you make a video about the difference(s) of propane and natural gas regulator?
Other than the pressure, there really is no difference.
GFM
Interesting and well made video. Very informative. Helps me know that my plumber isn't ripping me off, when he says I need a new one. ; )
Beautiful cut away! Thank you.
Welcome
GFM
thanks! defiantly helping me get my B ticket in school, great videos
Thank you for such nice video.
Welcome
GFM
Thank you!
thanks very much for the great video! it helped me a lot!
i think u have a little mistake at time 4:11. you say that when the machine is closed there is zero pressure under the diaphragm but if it were true, the diaphragm would come down...
Great video! Saved me a bunch if time and money. Thank you!
Welcome
GFM
Good video very understandable and cutaway valve is great.Thanks
the diaphragm and shaft part of the regulator reminds me of the old mechanical fuel pumps on cars from the 1950s. some had two lobes one to pump the fuel and one to create a vacuum to run the windshield wipers.
You are showing your age.
GFM
grayfurnaceman
LOL. not really, a friend and I were collecting and restoring 1940's / 1950's cars as a hobby. that is before his health started failing.. he taught me all I know about the old cars. for him it was from experience. so he passed this knowledge to me :)
I have rebuilt a few.fuel pumps and carbsin th past. as you most likely know the old cars had plenty of elbow room under the hood for repair work. not like today's cars where you practically have to remove the engine and turn it upside down to change a damn spark plug
Ha Ha Ha
Great job love this video
Is there a fla me sensor on each burner?? And if they all acting alike - we can say that it is definitely the stove regulator-- what makes them go out - will I know when I change the regulator by UT's looks if it I' out! - thanks again!!
Thanks for sharing!
Helped me solve a problem. Thanks.
Welcome
GFM
Thanks. I got exactly what I wanted. Thanks.
Welcome
GFM
Thanks for the great video :)
Here from Carson Dunlop!
Good work!
Do you have a video on Zero Pressure Regulator (ZPR)?
Awesome knowledge given by you, but it can be more accurate if you can add the law on which pressure regulator work. And you are also request to upload the video of diaphragm and turbine gas meter working principle.
Thanks
Amit Kumar
Thank you for your time, that was helpful.
Welcome
GFM
Regarding propane, I don tthink the PG regulator has an adjustalbe reg., unless it is under the cap. I am trying to make a weed burner with 5 or so orificies. Do you know if I can adjust the amount of gas or feeding the burners, if I use 42/100ths or 30/, by turning the screw in the PG reg. Can you do a vidio on a pressure washer accuator?
Thank you for sharing!!
I am assuming this is a furnace and not a kitchen stove. There should not be a flame sensor on each burner. The change should be immediate.
GFM
Great video.
I’ve lived in this house for 7 years and my regulator has worked fine even with the temperature in the teens. This year when the temperature gets freezing it stops letting the adequate pressure of gas out. Once the temperature is above freezing, it works properly again. It has a covering around it with a lid, so I don’t think it’s getting water to it, and the water is freezing. Do you know what’s causing it to malfunction? Do you think it is corroded inside and when it freezes, it’s expanding a little, and the corrosion is not allowing it to slide properly?
It is probably the regulator wearing out.
GFM
My Kenmore stove is 9 years old. I can smell gas when stove is turned on. Ignitors work, light with a striker, and flame is very small, sometimes going out. It is like this on all burners. As I continue to light with a striker, the stove lights, and flame continuously accelerates, then is perfect. After which, all burners begin to light fine. do you think that my problem is the regulator?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, I do appreciate that. Full clear your video, and easy to understand. Do you have any info about how the gas convertion kits works? those used in gas engines of electric power plants?
I don't have anything specific. These are pretty much manufacturer's instructions.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you, I guess this devices work similar yo the gas regulators you've described, feeding gas on demand.
Hey GFM I found this th-cam.com/video/CfM6D65MC_w/w-d-xo.html
Big light bulb moment. Thank you.
Thanks you,
Nice video thanks for posting. From the pinhole, is it sometimes piped to an airvvent where incase there is a leak vents out to the atmosphere?
Excelent video , educational .
these are great for flamethrowers when you need to keep a constant pressure while the volumes change and it wont overfill to the point that the tanks rupture
Do you have a tutorial for commercial gas ovens in a restaurant setting? I have a Southbend oven with two gas burners in the oven that shut off after a few minutes. The pilot remains on, just the burners in the over shut off, the 6 burners up on top stay on as long as i need them. Any ideas.
Very good.
How often do the diaphragms wear out. They're pretty much a moving part right. Here in the UK medium pressure regulators are set to work at at max of 75 M/bar. They're designed to govern domestic dwellings at 22 Mb constant. They can only be replaced or adjusted by the energy service providers. What tests can you carry out on multifunction valves ( warm air units ). They're very common in Canada and America right? Is it thermocouple test, solenoid test & working pressure test? What other safety features do warm air and open flue boilers have? I really enjoy your videos. You explain very clearly. How do atmospheric sensing devices operate?🤔
Thanks
Well explained!
Thanks for the support
GFM
good one. thanks!
So if the gas cylinder is open and the cooking appliances are fired up and i close the stove top , dose that me the regulatore stops the has from flowing through to the stove
Thanks .
very impressive Great!
i may reduce the piping and go with a new regulator its an old Muller furnace if i could replace it with the same regulator it would be easier but that could be costly not sure what to do
Brilliant, thanks buddy :)
GFM,
Thank you, great video and long time subscriber to your channel. One aspect to a gas pressure regulator that I may have missed and seemingly can’t find an answer to is the “why”. I’m helping a friend add a gas range to his house. He has a gas regulator already installed on his line not far from the furnace and gas water heater. If the gas meter coming in to the house steps the pressure down and each appliance has their own valve, why would a gas pressure regulator be needed? Most homes including my own don’t have post meter gas pressure regulators installed. His does. I’m having a hard time understanding why. And if it’s possibly not necessary, I’d like to consider tapping into his gas line pre regulator to run his kitchen range as it would be more efficient to tap in pre regulator if advisable to do so. Thanks GFM!
The regulator at the meter reduces the line pressure to 8 in wc. Most appliances are designed for less than 4 in wc. Most gas valves in appliances have a built in regulator to make this change. Gas ranges usually do not have this regulator because the cooktop uses manual valves.
As for the regulator on the gas line, if the house is very large with a long run from the meter, or has very large appliances, it may be supplied 2# gas. That regulator is there to reduce that pressure as the appliances can only accept the 8" wc. Hope this helps.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thank you GFM!! That’s the missing link. Very, very helpful. It is a relatively larger house and it makes sense that incoming pressure might be higher to account for pressure drop post meter. I was stumped and that is extremely helpful! Thank you SO much! I couldn’t find an explanation out there and you nailed it.
Thanks
Had to watch this as I’m installing a generator in our home. Need to add 3-4 in WC
Thank you kind sir, its most helpful.