Flagship Table Saw Sled! Crosscut, Miter, Bevel, Dado, Picture Frames & More!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ต.ค. 2023
- FLAGSHIP CROSSCUT SLED Does it all! It cuts miters, bevels, compound angles, Dadoes, Rabbets, Picture Frames and More! Features both bottom and back fence- removable zero clearance inserts! Plus it works for both left & right tilting saws with no modifications!
PLANS FOR THIS SLED (both metric and standard) This is All you Need Templates are Not Necessary: kingsfinewoodworking.com/prod...
SLED PLANS WITH PAPER TEMPLATES: kingsfinewoodworking.com/prod...
(these make it quicker and easier to lay out holes, but they are definitely not needed. It will help guarantee accuracy if you are concerned) note: Templates are NOT sold separately, they are only sold with plans)
Buy the whole SLED!: kingsfinewoodworking.com/prod...
Buy the Hardware Kit: kingsfinewoodworking.com/prod...
Since we replaced our Grizzly table saw with the Saw Stop we have been in need of a new crosscut sled. We thought about building our Extreme Crosscut Table Saw Sled but realized that it could use a few improvements. Don’t get me wrong, it is an excellent table saw sled and is a very popular tool. However, one issue we have had with it, is its weight. It is just too heavy.
So, we decided to design a new sled that would function just as well as the old one but would also be HALF THE WEIGHT!
We liked that we could switch between thin kerf and dado blades without having to build a whole new sled, but rather than having to remove and replace the zero clearance insert every time we change blades, we designed it to move them to accommodate the blade thickness.
We also thought about the different sleds we use and incorporated some of those uses into this sled. So, instead of having a large and cumbersome sled just for making picture frames, this sled has an attachment to make picture frames perfectly. And, instead of a separate sled for cutting accurate angles we have incorporated an attachment that will do the same thing.
The movable zero clearance inserts can also be moved to allow the blade to be tilted to cut bevels. And, it accommodates both left and right tilting saws.
Used for this build
POWERTEC T-Track (2-Pack), 24" amzn.to/3ZUVGFG
POWERTEC 18” Aluminum miter bar amzn.to/3ZUWfj9
Digital Angle Finder amzn.to/48QZQTd
Aluminum round bar ¼” diameter amzn.to/46rEzOe
Aluminum hold down clamps amzn.to/45xYERQ
Toggle Clamp amzn.to/48NyOfz
Star knobs amzn.to/3QhrvFS
Star knob with stud amzn.to/3twhdsr
1/4-20 x 3/8" Button Socket Screws amzn.to/3ZPkkYB
1/4-20 x 3/4" Button Socket Screws amzn.to/3S3iW2m
T-bolts ¼”-20x3-1/2” amzn.to/45vbfFB
3/8-16 x 3/4" Hex Head Bolts amzn.to/45xj6lM
1/4-20 x 3-1/2" Hex Bolts amzn.to/3QfJa0C
1/4"-20x5/16 T-Nut amzn.to/3rLp9FH
10-32x1/2 socket set screw amzn.to/3Qdr7XJ
#5x3/8” countersink wood screws amzn.to/3rOYTu0
#8x1/2" countersink wood screws amzn.to/3Ff9yRS
¼” flat washers amzn.to/45nhlYo
36” x 1/8” thick aluminum ruler amzn.to/46sFiPh
¼” thick cast acrylic sheet amzn.to/46QzoHL
I didn't think you could improve your last once and now you've done it. Most thoughtful sled build ever!
Thank you. You’re very kind!
What a fantastic demonstration of how to build a super accurate sled.
My favorite feature of your video is that you show us what your sled can do FIRST, and only THEN how it's made. That is, you "sell" us on *why* we want this, and once our interest is sufficient, we're in for the details. Yes, with other TH-camrs you can skip around all you want, but I think your approach is more logical and intuitive. From this alone--good videography!
Thank you!
Thanks James, What a great sled it seems to cover all cuts required on the Table Saw. Well done to all the Family.
This appears to be the ideal sled. Love the detail in the video. I have been doing outdoor projects for years. Always used a miter saw and circular instead of a sled on my table saw. Now it is time to do some detailed woodworking. I just ordered the plans. This will be a welcome accessory in my workshop.
Thank you, James, for another fantastic build! The amount of thought and planning always shines through in your designs. Now I must go build one!!!!
Awesome, thank you!
@@KingsFineWoodworking in the beginning of the video, you cut a mitre and then took those 2 pieces and made a 90° corner? You do know that if your one cut is 45.25° the other cut will be 44.75°? Both total 90°. Being accurate would be cutting 4 pieces from the same side. Using both sides works if you are making a frame but sometimes you may only need 1 45° cut and then it may be off a hair. Also, if you reverse the mitre template to look like a V, you will get a smoother cut and no chipout on the inside of your mitres. Try it on a mitre saw, cutting mitres with the point against the fence or the point on the side where the degree handle is.
Just finished watching the entire video. I'm 69. Been a lawyer 40 years. Before that I worked with metal and wood. 2 ton punch press. 1000's of an inch. Excellent! Don't have the desire to re-invent the wheel. Send it to me. Thank you.
I bought this. I am a full time cabinet maker, and have the incra 2000. I have always needed a sled but never had the time to make one. I love the fact that it's cut out on the cnc. Well done James, I'm looking forward to using my sked. Can't wait until it's here.
What are the dimensions (footprint) of the sled?
That's a very well thought out sled, James! It's an inspiration for me to make something similar for my little Bosch contractor's table saw.
I love how you show the whole process and explain how to do the tricky bits. And I love that this video is over an hour long! (Maybe not what the TH-cam algorithm likes, but who cares!) Looking forward to watching the second part!
I think I have the same little table saw you have. I was about to ask if that sled will work with mine or just the big fancy table saws. Do you know? Also, do you have issues adjusting your blad to a perfect 90 degree? Mine is a little off. I can get it there but I have to put a lot of pressure and lock it down while forcing it into place. And it eventually vibrates loose.
@@joeguilfoyle1922 if you get the right bars under the sled it will work. The slots on my table saw where a different size than the standard size.
Getting the blade to 90 is difficult, sometimes the mechanism clog up with saw dust. Clean then out and make sure the set screw is set right. Hope this helps!
thank you@@c.a.g.1977
I'm obsessed with this! I can't wait to buy one! Excellent job, so very inspiring.
Brilliant design and work, James! Really well done!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Awesome! Looking forward to part 2.
Wow, that is clever. What a superbly thought out piece of kit. Hope you've patented the design before the big boys nick all of your clever ideas! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
Great video James, nice sled. Looking forward to see your next video on the rest of the accessories.
Thanks for sharing.
Incredible design James!
That's an AWESOME sled you designed.....very well thought out and I love that you've lightened the weight. It is great that your sled will do dado's too and will accommodate any width of regular blades. As always, your explanations and narrative are excellent. I missed seeing Princess supervising everything from her bed on the workbench but perhaps she was behind the camera filming this time! Best wishes from AZ!!!
Princess was there in her spot on the assembly table watching us all. I think the couple scenes she was in got cut from the final video. ❤️
Amazing sled!! Well done! Buying the plans right now. Temped to buy the complete, but I'll go ahead and build because, well its fun! Thank you!
Hey i just wanna point out that u said "That's Ryan there, ONE OF my daughter's boyfriends." Just pointing it out so you don't get her in trouble. Great videos man, I'm subscribing now.
Oh! Haha.
I should have been more careful! It’s not one daughter with multiple boyfriends, haha.
I have 5 daughters. Each with their own boyfriend or husband. 😂
I am in the process of building my sled. I added some epoxy under the t-track on the base to give a little more holding power since the screws are only 3/8". I put on the rear fence yesterday being very careful to keep it square to the blade, did the 5 cut method and the math and ended up with 0.0001". Good enough!
I am obsessed with thinking about the 5 cut method since I watched the video. And really once you're down to microscopic errors you're well within the error margin in the tools and materials.
Great looking sled.. Love the different options on the sled!
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
Excellent explanation of your innovative work. Will be ordering this.
I just completed my order for the sled...can't wait to get it!
Gotta hand it to ya, best in class I've seen. Thx.
Super video. Super Sled. Might do it myself if I find the time. Seems a very enjoyable project. I like the way you present it!
This is awesome James. I'm new to woodworking and am excited to see all the things I can do and make using this tool!
Thanks! And check out 2 on it. It’s out now.
th-cam.com/video/IhIUWeSwwHE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=IqBhTomNjarz70pH
Very nice table saw sled... Thank-you
Nice sled. Thanks for sharing
Nice job! I don't need all the miter features but I'll definitely be using that zero clearance insert method on my new sled.
Just ordered mine! Can’t wait to get it!
Great video, James! You really spent alot of time thinking this sled through!
Thank you!! The next part is the fun part. Haha.
I’m apparently incapable of making a short video.
To be honest I think we all prefer the longer format when you are teaching.
Impressive design and video. Good job! Just ordered the sled!
great video , not boring at all .
I am not a carpenter and I enjoyed your video. Thanks
My wife said the same thing!
James. Where have I been? 432k subs! Congratulations. Thanks for the content.
That’s an awesome sled, great job
Thanks 👍
Just finding your vids and they are great. I'm picking up a new (to me) Rockwell Unisaw this weekend and will be building a sled based off your design. You've thought of everything it seems. Oh, and I dig that assembly table too. All the best.
Best explanation of the 5 cut method I've ever seen. Thanks!
Explanation is ok. But you should watch the creators version. William Ng.
The why’s and the benefits of the longer 5cut, the fence pivot factor ect.
But anywho
One awesome sleed
@@HavocSphere Yes, I have, and that's true.
Love this sled. Please make a tutorial to use it to its full capability. I’m almost convinced…
37:10 Drill a Forstner bit hole through a small, thin scrap, then place the scrap, centered over your small hole, to position the Forstner exactly where you want it.
Great video. Thank you for sharing
I just ordered it. Video 2 will be a bonus
Awesome. On your newsletter.
Great work. And thats a reasonable price for entire sled considering it includes baltic birch and everything else.
Cool Design - Thanks!
looking forward to the kit form of your sled
Great detailed video
Awesome, thanks James!
Hi! Yes it sure will.
I built a super sled a couple of years ago and really like it, but It's so heavy I find that I avoid using it unless I'm going to use it a lot, and all of the add on accessories take up so much space. This is the most clever design I've seen.
Amazing sled and quite a deal on sale!
one more...I see 11/32 ply at Lowes (8.73 MM or .344 thick. Is this the ply you reference?
Very cool James!! I definitely have to save up and get one from you! I’m impressed and much better the incra 5000hd!
I am just near completion of this sled and everything seems to have worked out quite well, my only regret is that I used the best Home Depot plywood. It is too soft, it has voids and I hope the sled holds up. I chose Home Depot because there aren't many sources for baltic birch that is near me. Never again . I should have used a router to make the counter bored slots with the Home Depot ply, it probably would have been a lot cleaner with less tear out.
Mr. James you are a genius kind sir I’m sure this is a very fine product as are your hammers in which I love mine and I’m sure your plans are just as accurate as your Adirondack chairs and rockers and to which I have bought your plans and built seeral which are on point I love your attention to detail and your plans are most accurate if anyone is looking to buy this product or plans you are definitely in the right place! I am in no affiliate capacity whatsoever I’ve just bought plants in the past I’ve been very successful with such detailed plans! I am definitely considering purchasing this package as of I do have the Incra Miter sled myself as I think it would be very beneficial in my shop as well! Due to all the dados and zero clearance plates that are involved!
You are very kind! Thank you!❤
Wow, what more can I say. New subscriber here and I'll be buying this fence in a couple of weeks. Waiting for my new house and woodworking shop to get completed so I'll have a place to store it (living in an RV during the build). Absolutely amazing cross cut sled, and something I was planning on building once I got my shop up and running, but I like your sled so much I'd rather just buy the entire thing than build my own as I'll have sooo much to get done in my shop building cabinets etc. to get the shop set up (yea, just 4 walls when I start) so buying it will help jump start me getting my key project (outfeed/setup table etc.) built.
Awesome! And that sounds very exciting to be putting a new shop together!
I got a bunch of projects and don’t have time, I just ordered the whole thing!
Love the sled and the nice detailed video on it. I'm sure I'll be building one to replace my other one you designed. Wouldn't it be easier and more precise to do the zero clearance slots on the router table as well as faster.
Amazing work as always.
I have a sawstop jobsite saw. Any easy/quick way to adapt the plans for a smaller saw?
Thanks.
Either find a patent attorney to get things moving faster, or send the plans to the U. S. patent office in DC...I hope no one steals this. It is exceptional. A patent attorney will get things moving faster, but just a suggestion.
I'll have to remake the fence because I didn't pay attention to gluing it against a flat surface and the result was a warped fence. Live and learn!
That's a nice sled. subbed.
Thank you!!
Awesome design! I did come here to say that there is a difference if you have a void area without glue though. It will act as a weak point (crack propagator) so you should try to glue the entire bond area with adhesive always. Better to have squeeze-out than not.
Just discovered your feed and this video. I don’t have a table saw but have been upgrading my 40 yr old bandsaw and recently built a simple sled for it. Wondering if this plan could be modified for a band saw. I’m particularly interested in the mitering ability for making accurate frames.
Thank you for this inspiration. I've been needing to make a new one since I used the old one for a bevel cut s while back. Can this be reasonable resized for a SawStop Pro. If you think so I'll pick up the plans.
I never thought I'd buy instead of build a sled, but at this price point, and the time investment, it makes no sense to build it myself. Looking forward to the shipping date.
As always great video and product!! Now to decide whether to build it with your plans or just buy one
Thanks for watching!
@KingsFineWoodworking thanks for your efforts!
very impressive!
Thanks!
simple for you sir😀
That's a GREAT sled James. It would be nice if you would sell the zero clearance inserts. For us that do not have the CNC Machine, it would save us ALOT of work making several sets? ?? ???
When you do the 5 cut method you need to use the distance from the pivot point to the point you adjust, I believe, not just the entire length of the fence. It would help you if you selected an easy round distance from the side when you put that first screw in on the opposite side.
(not that it makes much difference in this case, you're already working with very tight tolerances)
One of the fun eccentricities of furniture making is the obsession with reducing error....
I was thinking the same thing. I watched the video last night and couldn't stop thinking about the 5 cut method and where the miniscule error he had left over came from. It's the distance from the right hand pivot point to the left hand distance not the length of the fence.
i watched his video a few times already and he does say the distance between the two screws at one point. I think he means the distance between the right hand pivot screw and the left hand stopping point where you shim it out. Bur he's putting the new left hand side screw really close to that same spot so it's the same thing for all intents and purposes.
In fairness though at some point you're going to run into the natural +/- of the tools you're using. If the $30 caliper says 0.002" I do not trust that a different measurement a hair's width next to it isn't going to say 0.003". Plywood is not solid material. The blade vibrates VERY VERY slightly. There are miniscule errors being introduced everywhere in reality. We all know though the point is to control what you can control and know when to stop. And in this case we can control using the right distance as a multiplier on the error/in.
Is there a description somewhere of what "some assembly required" means when purchasing the full sled? For example, am I getting a box of CNC pieces that has to be completely assembled? Am I getting a sled that is largely already assembled and I have to install the runners and the rear fence? etc. Also, does the kit include all the accessory items that will be described in the next video? Thanks for the great design, looking forward to replacing the original/heavier sled a built from your plans a few years ago...
I have watched a lot off your videos including when your daughter made the pyramid box everything is so precise love the sliding sledge looks amazing. Just wondered what is the shipping cost to the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 you all keep up the great work your producing.😀😂😂
Thanks!
hello from Australia. New Subscriber here Love your channel
Thank you!
Hi James. Question regarding mounting the miter bars. Do you have the adjusting screws for both bars apposing each other? In other words, in your video, you showed us adjustment to the 'left' bar and the screw driver was on the saw blade side. Did you then adjust and install the right bar the same direction (screw driver closer to your fence) or the opposite direction (with screw driver on the saw blade side. Hope my question makes sense. THanks!!
Just placed my order.
Thank you!
@29:35 this is definitively *router territory* for me
(a handheld router with straight edged "cradle" with spacers on a whole but pre-marked piece of ply = 5 min work and 100% straight cuts/shelves)
I am still getting used to my router. I would think a router would badly rip up the surface of that plywood wouldn't it? The forstner bit has tiny little protrusions to prescore the material it's about to remove to prevent tearing it.
Question related to the gluing of the "T" nuts: would it be a good idea to glue the space before you pound in the nut to make the gluing be a stronger additional hold, since the glue would be on all parts that connect the sled to the nut that way?
I have the DEWALT 7491 installed in my work table with about 10” of table on each side of the saw table. Will the size of this sled work with the dewalt and my setup?
Hint: use a suitably sized ring spanner as a guide for the forcener bit if doing it freehand.
Thanks for taking the time to put together. I have a sheet of 1/2” BB plywood. Could I do the substitute without a lot of mental gymnastics, adjusting measurements? Just printed the plans and thought I’d take a shortcut if there is one. 🙂
I was thinking about that too. I just built mine from 3/8 using the plans. If you used 1/2"...
The bolts the plan calls for might not be sufficient. 1/2" is 12mm thick and not 9mm. The button head bolts pretty comfortably reach the blind nuts with 3/8" stock. I suppose you could also recess the blind nuts a bit more to try to reach the bolts. Or make your channels for the zero clearance inserts a little deeper to help the bolts reach the blind nuts.
It adds 33% to the weight. But.... it's reasonably weighted as is so that doesn't feel like a showstopper.
The stop block hardware won't not be long enough with a thicker fence. Your back fence would be 36mm thick and not 27mm. You'd have to pick a new 1/4" aluminum rod from HD and a longer 1/4-20 hex bolt (even if you have to cut it down). My stop block only gives 1-1/4" between blocks until it's open "too far". You could get away with recessing the bolt head deeper into the block but I wouldn't do that with the 1/4" aluminum rods pins on each side.
I studied the plans for several hours before building it, so I think I'm pretty familiar. I don't see anywhere the measurements of the cuts are affected by the primary board thickness.
That said, I also used a piece of scrap 3/4" BB for the front fence instead of messing around with gluing 2 pieces of 3/8.
I have a Jet Jobsite portable table saw. Will this table sled work on a smaller table saw table?
The metal tap measure you include I assume is for the top of the back fence to set the stop block?
@kingsfinewoodworking - Can you technically cut a bevel cut with the blade at 45 degrees by adjusting the zero clearance insert and cutting accordingly? I know it would leave another cut line in your fence and fence insert, but certainly would be handy for bevels.
Would it makes sense to cnc or laser cut small alignment holes in the pieces that people can insert dowels into when gluing up and it will ensure perfect alignment
Hello, I'm Angel from Peru. I'm excited about your video and this fabulous project. I have a question about the plans. Do these come with a CNC cutting list? Because at the moment I don't have an optimal table saw to make these precise cuts.
I have your older sled. It works well, but it was very heavy. So I haven’t used it very much. This one looks lighter. I have a small sled for small boxes. It has both 90 deg and 45deg because it has a single runner.
The weight was a problem for us too. This one is less than 1/2 the weight! Plus it’s way more functional.
I bet you can come up with a finger joint jig plate that swaps in place of the adjustable pieces on the fence. This would be a pin-and-slot jig like any used to make finger jointed boxes, but it fastens in place in the gap on the fence where the adjustable pieces usually sit. Various plates each with different pin and slot widths for different widths of fingers....
I was thinking of the exact same thing today. I was thinking a completely detachable fence but I like your idea too of removing the fence zero clearance inserts and making an adapter for box joint jig.
James,
Best sled I have ever seen. Hands down. Fantastic piece of work. For the kit version, are all the parts included for making picture frames? I assume you have to supply your own ruler and digital angle finder for the sled? Any recommendations on these?
Thank you 🙏
Hi!
Thank you! Actually everything you see is included when you buy the whole sled. The picture frame & miter function are both included. And the digital angle finder and the ruler are included too. Every single piece of hardware I show that’s used on the sled comes with it. Hold down clamp, toggle clamp, exotic wood stop, all of it. You don’t have to buy a single thing.
Thank you James.
I am in.
My order will be forthcoming.
Hi James. I just got the basic build done on the sled. Cindy over at molasses Creek says you want comments if there's any problems. The only problem I've run into thus far is the t-nut holding the fence extension was counterbored too deep by about a 16th of an inch and prevented the extension from being pulled out. I knocked out the t-nut and ground down threaded section about 3/32 and that fixed the problem. No other issues as yet although I like Cindy's idea of screwing the safety box on rather than gluing. I'm going to see if I can remove mine and do it that way. Yes, I've already cut through the back of the safety box..
Thank you for the feedback! I should have caught that the t-nut was too deep, I apologize.
Also, screwing in the safety box is a good idea. I didn’t think of that when I first designed everything.
If you could think of everything there would be nothing left for we mere mortals to leave comments about.
Nice!
I have the Milwaukee M18 table saw. The table is 22W 18D, will this sled work on it?
This looks fantastic, and I want it to improve my little cheap Ryobi Table Saw. Will the miter bars work with a Ryobi table saw? I found out the hard way that the PowerTec Miter Guage Bar is wider than my Ryobi table saw tracks.
I have seen plans call for using strips of 3/8" plywood ripped to the exact length you need. Not as fancy but miter bars are pretty pricey given the relative expense of your table saw. Miter bars he used look like 3/8 x 3/4. Given the physical toll these would take I would use oak maybe? Don't know how much oak expands in humid conditions though.
I've been needing to build a new sled since recently upgraded my table saw. This looks like a tremendous sled. Decided to go ahead and order one because the precision of being CNC cut and the Baltic birch. Ordered last night. Excited to get it. Looking forward to follow up video.
I'm already thinking about doing some box/finger joints with it. If I'm thinking about the design correctly, it should not be difficult to add a finger spacer to the replacement insert in the fence. Correct?
Very easy to put a finger joint jig on it. I already have a video for it on the channel.
I'll try to find it. thanks
@@KingsFineWoodworking found it. Of course it's another excellent video. I look forward to building it using it. Thanks!!!
Are you still planning to do a 2nd video on the new sled?
Thanks James, do you send them to Australia ( west Australia )and how much please, our mens shed could use one that's for sure
I enjoyed your video(s) and am in the process of building the fence. One question, regarding the fence adjustment. When you adjust the fence you are "rotating" it around the one screw on the right (which is not at the end). So, the right end of the fence beyond the screw moves forward slightly as the left side moves back. Is this enough to make a difference requiring you to chase your tail to adjust it or should you measure the length of the fence from the screw?
I wonder this as well because I had to move it back, then forward when I rechecked. Good point.
i noticed the board’s sliding around while clamping. Have you ever heard of a tip to sprinkle a little salt on your glue side. This helps with grip the wood while clamping.
Sure. I do that sometimes. I explain how in my last sled video, and discuss the chemistry behind why it doesn’t affect the bond.
this the first time viewing your channel. Glad you knew the tip already, you never know if you share a new tip or not. Great instructional video on the sled. I would like to build one someday.
Nice sled. I just finished your Extreme Cross Cut sled and now I'm trying to figure out if I can retro fit and reuse some of it in the build of this one. :) For planning purposes, what are the overall dimensions of this sled?
24” x 32”
When adjusting the angle at the end, the length of the board (27 inches) should be measured from the pivot point, not from the end of the board, right?
With the 5 cut method do you have to start with a perfectly square piece first?
What kind of glue do you use? I know it's Tite bond, but what's the open time?