I assembled this printer 2 years ago, now I am going to start assembling a new one, I love the design it has, and it is a good experience to learn how printers work, again, love your work !!
I did the exact same thing with switching from a prusa design to a more rigid core xy design, I am very happy with the out come and I'm excited see how yours turns out. I used 3D printed corner brackets, and you are right, they don't provided the same rigidity as the metal ones do, but I made 3 plywood sides that mounted to the printer, and the combo is very rigid.
With threads there is pitch and lead. Pitch is the distance from thread to thread, lead is the distance traveled in one turn. So a single start thread the pitch and lead are the same, with a multi start thread the lead is the pitch times the number of starts.
I should have added that how the Chinese manufacture or probably more important the marketing people between you and I and the manufacture define the terms may be a whole nother matter. Good luck on your build. But I think you may want to look at some anodized tubing and plastic bushings even just printed ones. I am considered arrow shafting for a similar build,, hope to get to it this fall/winter. I can get Easton XX75 2115 bare shaft for $4.60 each.
Tip: put some loctite on your bolts before using the hammer nuts - that will transfer enough torque to the nut to cause it to fully turn into place before it bites into the aluminum extrusion. Otherwise, they can sometimes want to tighten down at an odd angle, and not get a good grip on the extrusion. 😀
Good video, as usual. After building a Prusa i3 a while ago I was looking at something a bit sturdier. I opted for the P3Steel frame and added all the bits a pieces as I got them and now have two printers. The P3Steel is a lot more solid...
I had a thought for tensioning the X and Y axis. If you add a section of the 20mm box behind the Z axis drive you could add two belt guides on a pair of adjustable leavers where you could manually adjust or add belt tension springs. This would also give the Z axis one extra place to add a fixing point for strength. I really like this build, and will be making one with a much larger foot print. Most of the components will be cnc aluminium parts from the stl files on thanks giving. Plus it will be a ground up build not built from salvaged components. Great work and thanks for sharing your experience to all. Kev
'Tech2c' Thanks a 1000x for the Hypercube design. I started with a chinese clone-of-a-clone i3 DIY. Watched all of the 'building a new printer' YT video's of your hand. Replaced the hotend of my clone-of-a-clone for a E3D V6 (had to make a bracket :-) ) and printed the HC parts. Did some tuning and Mod's and, oh boy, is it a GREAT machine !! I still have a lot of tuning and modification wishings, but it is a realy good 'beast' already ! Ordered a Trianglelab BMG direct drive, have only printed PLA with Bowden-drive uptill now and want to try different material. Cannot find a part for fitting a BMG wich fits to a origional HC X-carriage ( with 18 mm sensor bracket). There's a part for the H'evo, but i'm not sure if this also fits a HC standart x-carriage. Anyone ?? But, nevertheless: Tech 2c's HC gave me a very happy time consuming :-) !! Regards, Ron. / The Netherlands.
That frame will probably be the biggest improvement from i3. I built i3 first and now finishing second which is basically same but self designed parts + alu frame. The test prints are so smooth I couldnt believe my eyes! A few notices about your components, as I have selected some exactly same parts: - that inductive sensor will not sense bed thru 3mm glass. actually it senses aluminium from 1-2mm distance nothing between sensor and bed. I read there is better option which senses 8mm distance, but dont know if that is alu thru glass. ( I tested this sensor actually today) - I feel that selecting the white GT2 PU belt over rubber one makes a huge difference. The PU belt is much stiffer -> less ringing/vibration in the movements - the 8mm lead in the screws is too much imo. I have those now, but am looking TR8x2 for replacement. I also made extra bearing between screw and Z-motor, so the bearing carries the load instead of motor. That just.. felt right. :) Interesting to see how your new printer comes out! I bet it will be awesome! :) Oh, and dont get the heat blocks from Banggood.. they bleed plastic from every screw and thermistor hole, as they are drilled too deep.. I have 2 of them going into trash. :)
4 start T8 lead screw is a good option if you're using micro stepping. 16 X 200 steps (1.8° motor) = 3200. 8mm / 3200 steps = 0.0025 mm/micro step or 0.04 mm/full step.
+Tech2C I have a 1 start version and it's just too slow on long moves and as I'm using auto bed levelling, the z motors are constantly moving and getting hot. I think I'd go for a 2 start next time, that might be the sweet spot between speed and less small moves. Have you thought about stepper drivers? I just installed the TMC2100 and they are amazing. So smooth and quiet!
hey been following you for a while i'm thinking about building a 3d printer like the new one your working on. i have purchased the items in that video's description. what i wanted to no was what else do i need to make it fully functional? cause u said you was taking from your old printer so wat parts are those?
a better t nut is the ones with a ball bearing, they can be inserted like those but lock into place without a screw in it. just good t nut with ball bearing. i got a pack of 50 off amazon for about $15 a little high compared to the regular t nuts but they make things sooo much easier. worth the extra money
any lengths for the frame or stepper motor models and where you brought them from? or are you going to make one big pdf about all of the spacing and parts and location of the parts, that would be cool
I noticed that you purchased springs for manual bed leveling as well as an induction sensor for auto "bed leveling." Is it necessary to use the springs if you are using the induction sensor? I was hoping to ditch the springs, which I suspect to be introducing oscillations to the Y axis.
I was thinking of converting my one and only duplicator i3 to corexy too! Unfortunately i can't get those aluminum extrusions at a decent price, so instead i will be using steel 20mmx20mm square tubing for the frame. However i need to plan my build really carefully because that printer is the only one i got... Once it's disassembled no more 3d printed parts ! Good luck on your build can't wait to see what you come up with.
I'm in the same boat - it's my only working printer and I can't disassemble it until the new one is working. The 20mm t-slot alu extrusions are expensive in Australia compared to other parts of the world but funny enough 20mmx20mm square tubing is also expensive here.
@tech2c what’s up brother! So idk if anyone has pointed this out or if I just didn’t hear it in a video BUT if you cut the z axis rails to 350mm like the thingiverse page still states it will NOT be tall enough with the 400mm 12mm z rails. Like I said I don’t know if I just missed that in a video or not but it is not updated on the thingiverse page, thank god I left them 400mm for what I though was going to be “extra” height haha. Thanks for all your hard work though man! I’m loving my progress so far
Hey, glad to hear you're building the Hypercube! With the Z axis rails, keep them the same length as the Z axis extrusions. I have 400mm length on Thingiverse because banggood only lists them as 300mm and 400mm, no 350mm option. Anyway have fun :)
Tech2C that’s what I wound up doing but by complete accident. I was about to cut the extrusion to 350 and then though “hmm I’ll do 400 so I have some extra room underneath” which I wound up with no room but atleast the rails for haha
I will be looking forward to finding out whether those high pitch lead screws are successful or not. I think you may be on to something with the high pitch effecting accuracy. The stepper motor resolution (if too low) will effect z axis accuracy for sure. I have seen finer pitch lead screw an banggood as well witch may be better suited for 3d printers. Could you please go through the parameter changes needed to synchronize the motors with the change in pitch. That would be much appreciated. Thanks for the informative videos.
Yeah I'll go through each section as I go. I have a 0.9 degree stepper motor I may use for the z axis if the resolution/accuracy is hampered with the 8mm pitch lead screw.
Could you add a Build Log going over the firmware settings, as this would be a great help for those who build from scratch. Please and Thanks in advance
Excellent video! I found your channel while searching cutting Acrylic using a Laser and later I watched your video on using the Dremel type drill with an attachment which I thought was very clever and it was able to cut the 3mm Acrylic sheet with ease. I'm am totally sold on wanting to make the HyperCube 3 in 1 machine, but I would like to have the x and y axis cutting/print area to be atleast 300mm so that I can use the standard 1 sqft acrylic panels. Do you happen to know or tell me how I can calculate the size of aluminium profiles I am going to need. Thanks!
If I'm remembering correctly, bronze is harder than aluminium. So you are likely to wear out your rods and have the aluminium deposit on the bronze bushings. How much that matters, I'm not sure. I've seen a couple of printers with anodized aluminium rods and Igus bearings.
The bushings are oil impregnated for self lubrication. They do leave an oily residue on the rods after some use. I'm hoping the low friction won't destroy the alu rods, but we'll see. I've seen the igus bearings and anodised alu rods, but they're quite expensive. I'll try this first before committing to purchase anything further.
I have a Replikieo Prusa i3 too, and looking forward to your build. Have been looking at the new Folger Tech FT-5, and wondering about building something simular to it. Not sure what design to use for my next build. Keep up the great videos and the thingiverse uploads. :D:D
question has any one used a robo3d r1 + to print hypercube pieces with abs and if you have what temp settings for extruder and bed and how did you get it to stick to bed. great printer design. also what would be the 20/20 extrusion length for a heated bed for 500mmx500mm bed
I'm thinking about core xy for quite some time, but I dont like belts/fishing line idea. Will find a way to use lead screw. How is bed going to be, 2 guides and 1 lead? I plan on doing all four corners suported 2lead/2 guides, really dont like ultimaker where one side is carring all the weight...
Hi Tech2C. Please can you advise me on how big should my cube be in the xy if I am using the ANYCUBIC Ultrabase Heated Bed at 430 * 410mm? I am going to use 3030 extrusion for the frame and 2020 for the Z frame to hold the bed.
This looks like a really interesting project and I'll be following closely. For the endstop switches, did you consider using optical sensors instead? - I've found mechanical switches to be inconsistent (probably due to contact bounce). Although accuracy of the homing position is not so important on the X & Y axis's, it's critical on the Z axis. -Cheers
The plan was to use existing parts from the Prusa i3, even though I bought new endstops. Optical will be a future upgrade to it once it's printing. Thx.
Hi, I'm your FAN, you've made an exceptional 3D printer. I request you for a project of a new HyperCube with a double extruder, and slightly larger so as to print 20x20x20 exactly. As an extruder you should put the E3D Cyclops I have seen several tests and at the end for size and maintenance would seem the best. Of course you could modify your HyperCube by printing it PLA and PVA. Many of us are tired of losing hours of work to clean objects from the usual supports. But by printing the PVA media the work would be really lightened. I wait for your news. Thank you in advance
Thank you for this because it is time to retire my Prusa I3 Rework as I have never been able to really print with it due to a lot of issues with the bed and 370mm X axis 8mm smooth rods is a horrible design due to the 8mm rods drooping. Anyway, I have to do it the hacksaw way myself but wanted to ask if you used 32 TPI blades? I only have 24 but I read 32 is the way to go (the more the merrier) but I think I saw 24tpi on your blade. By the way how can you tell if a leadscrew is really 8*2 or 8*8 when looking at the pictures because I would prefer a real 2mm pitch.
+Tech2C Always droop due to 8mm and the length of the rods so the bed is always closer to the nozzle in the middle of the rod length. Really 8mm rods over 300mm is too small. They are perfectly straight and came from Misumi g6 chrome hardened. Damn good rods but if I had known then, 3 years ago, what I know now I would have went with 10mm and drilled out the side holes.
Hi! I got a question about the size of the frame. Is it possible to make the frame bigger than 350x300x350? I want to make a large printer but I'm worried about the rigidity of the frame if I make it too big ^^'
Yes. Many people have. See the Makes section at www.thingiverse.com/thing:1752766 and you will some that were scaled up. The aluminum channels are very rigid and, unless you go HUGE, should be fine.
So.. I am waiting for my parts to arive for a 500x500x500mm Build volume.. is this too huge? My concerns are about the Z-Axis. Wont it bend under its own weight?
Chris. I am inspired by your Hypercube and have built the frame and installed steppers and am now testing the frame. unfortuneatly the printer I am using to print the parts is a 101Hero which does not have the best quality prints so am having issues with the X axis. I am using Aluminium rods and the sintered bushes and the X movement is always jerky. Y axis is perfect as I am using Steel rods and roller bearings. Did you have any issues with movement in your X axis. I have watched all your videos. The X axis seems to move very freely when moving by hand and motors are disconnected. Any help would be great. PS I have ordered 10mm steel rods and bearings for the X axis to hopefully fix the issue but they will be some time in arriving and this is the only issue I have before I can start printing and reprint all my parts for better quality. Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on the issue.
Hello, well done with your build! I use carbon fibre tubes for my X axis, which I sanded down to allow the linear slide to travel smoothly across it. You can use steel rods and linear bearings for the X axis, but I would recommend 8mm steel diameter as the 10mm is just too heavy. Check the hypercube link on Thingiverse for instructions on using 8mm steel rods on the X gantry.
@@Tech2C Thanks Chris. I bought carbon rods and had them on but as mentioned I couldn't get the X axis to move freely due to the bad quality of my 3d printed parts. For this reason I swapped over to Aluminium tube but had no better luck. I'm thinking that there might be something in the Marlin that I have mucked up on the X axis as with the steel rod I have been able to get the X axis to move without any building however when I move the axis through Pronterface only the X axis shakes about. I know 10mm on the X axis is too heavy but I just need to get it moving without the shaking so I can reprint all my components. I'm using 8mm steel rods on the Y axis so intend to swap them to the 10mm once I get it going. I think I will download a fresh copy of Marlin and re program it to rule that out of the equation. BTW my printer is 500x500x500 ATM but I will probably shorten it a bit once I get it all running. Its that size as I wish to print some RC model planes with it as there are some great files out there for model planes. I have a youtube video showing the issue at th-cam.com/video/uXgi8UgRnmY/w-d-xo.html
Hey kind of a dumb question, would an extrusion with the inner diameter of 6.4 instead of 6.2 mm pose a problem in the construction with all the other parts you listed?
Bushings that can bind under misalignment and aluminum rod is a really bad combination to consider. The bearings are going to tear up the aluminum very easily.
Quick question, where did you source the 8mm chrome rod from in Perth? My Prusa has stainless steel rod but want to try chrome rod as it may be smoother.
I have a basic question, sorry if I display my ignorance, but here it is; Is the Core XY printer design limited to having the length of "X" equal to the "Y"? - I have a hankering to make a large-ish printer X,Y,Z = 400, 600,400mm. I realise I would have to beef up the frame somewhat, and some of the drive gear. Thanks.
hello I want to build one like this but with the measures 525x525x550 how do I get the measures of the profiles to build it with this print volume? thank you
I'm currently building mine and there is something hard to see from the video, how much space do you leave between the 'floor' and the bottom XY plane of the printer ? Do you mount it as low as possible or do you need to leave space for clearance for example to mount the Z axis stepper ? Thanks
hey tech2c.... im new to the 3d printing world, i was wanting to build my own to start me into the hobby. i was just wandering...... if i was to obtain the 3d printed parts that you have designed am i right in thinking that those parts can be used on any size printer and the size of the printer is purely dictated by the 2020, rods and lead screw used... also, are you able to supply the parts this printer and ship to the UK? thanks in advance
Can you please provide URL / link to the x axis rods please? I tried ordering some from the Thingiverse page for the build and feels extremely snug as it traverses through the bronze bushings. Is that normal?
This looks great. I was just thinking of upgrading my current plywood i3 frame, which is warped... But the Core xy style looks much better and sturdier than the i3. Looking forward to the rest of the build :).
Great project! Have you looked into polymer bushings? I was looking into them to improve my i3 x carriage, they seem cheap and manufacturer guidelines suggest using them on alluminium rods, just like yours. I'm looking forward to the next videos!
Yeah I was investigating the igus bearings and have found them quite cheap online. If these bushings are not suitable I'll definately try them next. Cheers!
Hey Tech2C, can I ask where in Australia you got the box of M5 screws? I've been to three different Bunnings and the shortest I can find is only 12mm, and even then only in packs of 4 or 5 at $4 each!
Wow! Great video as always. I will be following this intently. I too have a Prusa i3 DIY variant and have been thinking of upgrading it for a while now. This looks like it could be perfect, though I do want to make it bigger :-) Keep up the great work and thank you so much for sharing.
Very nice. Excited to see your build take life, will be following it closely! Instead of using the inductive proximity sensor, have you considered BLTouch hall effect based sensor? Works with any surface type and is ridiculously accurate. I've made the switch and it's been one of the best upgrades I've done to guarantee perfect first layers and a huge drop in failed prints. Just my two cents, not affiliated with bltouch in any way.
Apologies if you've already said, (I tried the links and only found carbon fiber) where did you locate the two different types of 10mm OD aluminum tubing? Thanks in advance.
Brian Scharp I wouldn’t use aluminum source good cf or go with the new linear rail design! Search Facebook for the hypercube group! There a bunch of awesome people
Hi mate, fantastic tutorial, you have inspired me to build my own rather than buy one out of the box. my first question is what size of slot is on the profile? I've been looking on eBay for the extrusion and they all have different slot sizes ranging from profile 4,5,6,7,8. I know you are using 5mm nuts but is the profile 5 mm or bigger? I'm guessing it's 6 but not sure. also I've noticed further on in your build you've been printing your own parts, I don't have a printer, is there any way around that? can I purchase these anywhere?
I thought you will make delta printer for your next 3d printer. I followed your video since starting replikeo as i bought replikeo too, you did a great video to modify the replikeo. May i know why you choosed corexy printer rather than delta printer?
Hey thanks for following! I chose the corexy design as I've seen many printers based on it producing great quality prints, and it can be built quite compact in size. Delta is interesting and I may look at a delta design in future.
Thank you for your video so far, my replikeo was modified exactly same as you made on video. its great modification. Last two month, I decided to make delta because the size is very compact, its take small space on table rather than replikeo. I saw the delta (atom 3d printer) on 3d printer exhibition in singapore early this year, the printer can do 50 micron, its make me surprise after that i decide to make delta. now i still doing calibration (its very hard one on delta)
one suggestion/idea Instead of copper bushings why not try polymer bushings... like igus bearings, they also sell igus filament, in theory you could print your own bushings...
Yes these are copper/steel bushings, not bronze, even though the ebay listing calls them bronze. I plan to start at the cheapest end of the price scale and work my up if the components are not satisfactory. Polymer/ptfe/igus bushings would be next for the alu rods.
I assembled this printer 2 years ago, now I am going to start assembling a new one, I love the design it has, and it is a good experience to learn how printers work, again, love your work !!
I did the exact same thing with switching from a prusa design to a more rigid core xy design, I am very happy with the out come and I'm excited see how yours turns out. I used 3D printed corner brackets, and you are right, they don't provided the same rigidity as the metal ones do, but I made 3 plywood sides that mounted to the printer, and the combo is very rigid.
With threads there is pitch and lead. Pitch is the distance from thread to thread, lead is the distance traveled in one turn. So a single start thread the pitch and lead are the same, with a multi start thread the lead is the pitch times the number of starts.
Good to know, thx!
I should have added that how the Chinese manufacture or probably more important the marketing people between you and I and the manufacture define the terms may be a whole nother matter.
Good luck on your build.
But I think you may want to look at some anodized tubing and plastic bushings even just printed ones.
I am considered arrow shafting for a similar build,, hope to get to it this fall/winter. I can get Easton XX75 2115 bare shaft for $4.60 each.
Tip: put some loctite on your bolts before using the hammer nuts - that will transfer enough torque to the nut to cause it to fully turn into place before it bites into the aluminum extrusion. Otherwise, they can sometimes want to tighten down at an odd angle, and not get a good grip on the extrusion. 😀
Good video, as usual. After building a Prusa i3 a while ago I was looking at something a bit sturdier. I opted for the P3Steel frame and added all the bits a pieces as I got them and now have two printers. The P3Steel is a lot more solid...
I have just finished building my core XY D-Bot .... love it so far !
Sweet!
You can cut the aluminum framing with a miter saw, 80 tooth carbide blade is the best choice. Thanks for the great vid!
OMG! Somebody who puts there playlists in the correct order and not in reverse :o
I had a thought for tensioning the X and Y axis. If you add a section of the 20mm box behind the Z axis drive you could add two belt guides on a pair of adjustable leavers where you could manually adjust or add belt tension springs.
This would also give the Z axis one extra place to add a fixing point for strength. I really like this build, and will be making one with a much larger foot print. Most of the components will be cnc aluminium parts from the stl files on thanks giving. Plus it will be a ground up build not built from salvaged components. Great work and thanks for sharing your experience to all.
Kev
Wow, if you do cnc mill the parts in aluminium please post photos on thingiverse! I'd love to see that!
Will DO
Half expected a 3D printed miter box :)
'Tech2c' Thanks a 1000x for the Hypercube design. I started with a chinese clone-of-a-clone i3 DIY. Watched all of the 'building a new printer' YT video's of your hand. Replaced the hotend of my clone-of-a-clone for a E3D V6 (had to make a bracket :-) ) and printed the HC parts.
Did some tuning and Mod's and, oh boy, is it a GREAT machine !!
I still have a lot of tuning and modification wishings, but it is a realy good 'beast' already !
Ordered a Trianglelab BMG direct drive, have only printed PLA with Bowden-drive uptill now and want to try different material.
Cannot find a part for fitting a BMG wich fits to a origional HC X-carriage ( with 18 mm sensor bracket).
There's a part for the H'evo, but i'm not sure if this also fits a HC standart x-carriage.
Anyone ??
But, nevertheless: Tech 2c's HC gave me a very happy time consuming :-) !!
Regards, Ron. / The Netherlands.
Wow, great video series. I ran into a number of problems trying to build something similar but found solutions here.
Nice. I was thing of making a frame for my i3 just like yours but keep same configuration as it is now. Will be keen to see the rest of the series.
That frame will probably be the biggest improvement from i3. I built i3 first and now finishing second which is basically same but self designed parts + alu frame. The test prints are so smooth I couldnt believe my eyes!
A few notices about your components, as I have selected some exactly same parts:
- that inductive sensor will not sense bed thru 3mm glass. actually it senses aluminium from 1-2mm distance nothing between sensor and bed. I read there is better option which senses 8mm distance, but dont know if that is alu thru glass. ( I tested this sensor actually today)
- I feel that selecting the white GT2 PU belt over rubber one makes a huge difference. The PU belt is much stiffer -> less ringing/vibration in the movements
- the 8mm lead in the screws is too much imo. I have those now, but am looking TR8x2 for replacement. I also made extra bearing between screw and Z-motor, so the bearing carries the load instead of motor. That just.. felt right. :)
Interesting to see how your new printer comes out! I bet it will be awesome! :)
Oh, and dont get the heat blocks from Banggood.. they bleed plastic from every screw and thermistor hole, as they are drilled too deep.. I have 2 of them going into trash. :)
I also believe the bed moving Z-direction is the better way, perhaps my next printer is like that.
What is the size of headed bed and what is the best filament to use for the parts it’s abs nice or else
Looking good so far. Thanks for including the parts list.
4 start T8 lead screw is a good option if you're using micro stepping. 16 X 200 steps (1.8° motor) = 3200. 8mm / 3200 steps = 0.0025 mm/micro step or 0.04 mm/full step.
I am using 16 micro steps. Here's hoping I don't lose too much resolution using this lead screw, but we'll see.
+Tech2C I have a 1 start version and it's just too slow on long moves and as I'm using auto bed levelling, the z motors are constantly moving and getting hot. I think I'd go for a 2 start next time, that might be the sweet spot between speed and less small moves.
Have you thought about stepper drivers? I just installed the TMC2100 and they are amazing. So smooth and quiet!
I'm tempted to use aluminum extrusions and keep the prusa style. Stronger bigger frame!
dont
The HyperCube is awesome xD
Will follow this and build along, this seem fun and you have great ideas! Looking forward to this series, Cheers!
great great post...extrusion is deff the smartest way to go on 3d printer builds
This is awesome. I've always wanted to try out a frame like this. I'll be sure to check out any further progress you make with this project!
Yay, Another Core XY Build. My next printer is going to be one of these :D Voron is going to be my design of choice unless I decide to design my own.
hey been following you for a while i'm thinking about building a 3d printer like the new one your working on. i have purchased the items in that video's description. what i wanted to no was what else do i need to make it fully functional? cause u said you was taking from your old printer so wat parts are those?
Hi sir.
Please Is it possible to make a video,how to draw printer parts and and what program do you use?
Funny, i did the same and started print out new parts for the D-Bot. :)
I've ordert also some V-Slot Aluminium Profile and many many many other parts.
Cool!
Same here but I'm making it so i have a bigger build area, should be 300x300x500mm.
a better t nut is the ones with a ball bearing, they can be inserted like those but lock into place without a screw in it. just good t nut with ball bearing. i got a pack of 50 off amazon for about $15 a little high compared to the regular t nuts but they make things sooo much easier. worth the extra money
if cutting tolerances are a problem 8020.net cuts everything very precisely
any lengths for the frame or stepper motor models and where you brought them from? or are you going to make one big pdf about all of the spacing and parts and location of the parts, that would be cool
I noticed that you purchased springs for manual bed leveling as well as an induction sensor for auto "bed leveling." Is it necessary to use the springs if you are using the induction sensor? I was hoping to ditch the springs, which I suspect to be introducing oscillations to the Y axis.
This is an AWESOME build log! Subscribed and can't wait to start building mine!
I was thinking of converting my one and only duplicator i3 to corexy too! Unfortunately i can't get those aluminum extrusions at a decent price, so instead i will be using steel 20mmx20mm square tubing for the frame. However i need to plan my build really carefully because that printer is the only one i got... Once it's disassembled no more 3d printed parts ! Good luck on your build can't wait to see what you come up with.
I'm in the same boat - it's my only working printer and I can't disassemble it until the new one is working. The 20mm t-slot alu extrusions are expensive in Australia compared to other parts of the world but funny enough 20mmx20mm square tubing is also expensive here.
@tech2c what’s up brother! So idk if anyone has pointed this out or if I just didn’t hear it in a video BUT if you cut the z axis rails to 350mm like the thingiverse page still states it will NOT be tall enough with the 400mm 12mm z rails. Like I said I don’t know if I just missed that in a video or not but it is not updated on the thingiverse page, thank god I left them 400mm for what I though was going to be “extra” height haha. Thanks for all your hard work though man! I’m loving my progress so far
Hey, glad to hear you're building the Hypercube! With the Z axis rails, keep them the same length as the Z axis extrusions. I have 400mm length on Thingiverse because banggood only lists them as 300mm and 400mm, no 350mm option. Anyway have fun :)
Tech2C that’s what I wound up doing but by complete accident. I was about to cut the extrusion to 350 and then though “hmm I’ll do 400 so I have some extra room underneath” which I wound up with no room but atleast the rails for haha
I will be looking forward to finding out whether those high pitch lead screws are successful or not. I think you may be on to something with the high pitch effecting accuracy. The stepper motor resolution (if too low) will effect z axis accuracy for sure. I have seen finer pitch lead screw an banggood as well witch may be better suited for 3d printers. Could you please go through the parameter changes needed to synchronize the motors with the change in pitch. That would be much appreciated. Thanks for the informative videos.
Yeah I'll go through each section as I go. I have a 0.9 degree stepper motor I may use for the z axis if the resolution/accuracy is hampered with the 8mm pitch lead screw.
Could you add a Build Log going over the firmware settings, as this would be a great help for those who build from scratch.
Please and Thanks in advance
I'm really looking forward to seeing the fully assembled 3D printer as I would love to upgrade from my old 3D printer as well for a long time! :D
You and me both!
Excellent video! I found your channel while searching cutting Acrylic using a Laser and later I watched your video on using the Dremel type drill with an attachment which I thought was very clever and it was able to cut the 3mm Acrylic sheet with ease. I'm am totally sold on wanting to make the HyperCube 3 in 1 machine, but I would like to have the x and y axis cutting/print area to be atleast 300mm so that I can use the standard 1 sqft acrylic panels. Do you happen to know or tell me how I can calculate the size of aluminium profiles I am going to need. Thanks!
Why not use a 16 tooth GT2 Pulley instead of the 20 tooth? It gives better resoution and is a match (diameter) for F623ZZ idlers
Great idea! Thx!
If I'm remembering correctly, bronze is harder than aluminium. So you are likely to wear out your rods and have the aluminium deposit on the bronze bushings.
How much that matters, I'm not sure.
I've seen a couple of printers with anodized aluminium rods and Igus bearings.
The bushings are oil impregnated for self lubrication. They do leave an oily residue on the rods after some use. I'm hoping the low friction won't destroy the alu rods, but we'll see.
I've seen the igus bearings and anodised alu rods, but they're quite expensive. I'll try this first before committing to purchase anything further.
I have a Replikieo Prusa i3 too, and looking forward to your build. Have been looking at the new Folger Tech FT-5, and wondering about building something simular to it. Not sure what design to use for my next build. Keep up the great videos and the thingiverse uploads. :D:D
This is awesome. Could this be adapted with a cutting tool to mill PCBs? Is there enough rigidity and torque? Subscribed!
question has any one used a robo3d r1 + to print hypercube pieces with abs and if you have what temp settings for extruder and bed and how did you get it to stick to bed. great printer design. also what would be the 20/20 extrusion length for a heated bed for 500mmx500mm bed
How much did this upgrade cost you? Do you think it was worth it?
Will be great if you show overall price of components in video, and info about details you buy, size, quantity and etc.
Are you going with the Voron design? The Voron will be my next printer for sure.
First I've heard of the Voron. This one will be a bit different.
I'm thinking about core xy for quite some time, but I dont like belts/fishing line idea. Will find a way to use lead screw. How is bed going to be, 2 guides and 1 lead? I plan on doing all four corners suported 2lead/2 guides, really dont like ultimaker where one side is carring all the weight...
Yeah 2 guides 1 lead for the Z. I'll see how it goes.
Hi Tech2C. Please can you advise me on how big should my cube be in the xy if I am using the ANYCUBIC Ultrabase Heated Bed at 430 * 410mm? I am going to use 3030 extrusion for the frame and 2020 for the Z frame to hold the bed.
This looks like a really interesting project and I'll be following closely.
For the endstop switches, did you consider using optical sensors instead? - I've found mechanical switches to be inconsistent (probably due to contact bounce). Although accuracy of the homing position is not so important on the X & Y axis's, it's critical on the Z axis. -Cheers
The plan was to use existing parts from the Prusa i3, even though I bought new endstops. Optical will be a future upgrade to it once it's printing. Thx.
hey cool, i also have prusa i3 and want to move to more stable frame, thought it allready works decent
Hi, I'm your FAN, you've made an exceptional 3D printer.
I request you for a project of a new HyperCube with a double extruder, and slightly larger so as to print 20x20x20 exactly.
As an extruder you should put the E3D Cyclops I have seen several tests and at the end for size and maintenance would seem the best.
Of course you could modify your HyperCube by printing it PLA and PVA.
Many of us are tired of losing hours of work to clean objects from the usual supports.
But by printing the PVA media the work would be really lightened.
I wait for your news.
Thank you in advance
Thank you for this because it is time to retire my Prusa I3 Rework as I have never been able to really print with it due to a lot of issues with the bed and 370mm X axis 8mm smooth rods is a horrible design due to the 8mm rods drooping. Anyway, I have to do it the hacksaw way myself but wanted to ask if you used 32 TPI blades? I only have 24 but I read 32 is the way to go (the more the merrier) but I think I saw 24tpi on your blade.
By the way how can you tell if a leadscrew is really 8*2 or 8*8 when looking at the pictures because I would prefer a real 2mm pitch.
My blade is 32T. How do your 8mm smooth rods droop if they're made of steel? Are they not straight?
+Tech2C
Always droop due to 8mm and the length of the rods so the bed is always closer to the nozzle in the middle of the rod length. Really 8mm rods over 300mm is too small. They are perfectly straight and came from Misumi g6 chrome hardened. Damn good rods but if I had known then, 3 years ago, what I know now I would have went with 10mm and drilled out the side holes.
Hi! I got a question about the size of the frame. Is it possible to make the frame bigger than 350x300x350? I want to make a large printer but I'm worried about the rigidity of the frame if I make it too big ^^'
Yes. Many people have. See the Makes section at www.thingiverse.com/thing:1752766 and you will some that were scaled up. The aluminum channels are very rigid and, unless you go HUGE, should be fine.
Awesome! Thanks for the info! ^^
Hi, I am planning on building a similar size printer. Have you started yours? What size of extrusions have you used? Thanks.
If you want that size, consider going with an existing design that's already in that size range. There's the D-bot, the Voron, and others.
So.. I am waiting for my parts to arive for a 500x500x500mm Build volume.. is this too huge? My concerns are about the Z-Axis. Wont it bend under its own weight?
Chris. I am inspired by your Hypercube and have built the frame and installed steppers and am now testing the frame. unfortuneatly the printer I am using to print the parts is a 101Hero which does not have the best quality prints so am having issues with the X axis. I am using Aluminium rods and the sintered bushes and the X movement is always jerky. Y axis is perfect as I am using Steel rods and roller bearings. Did you have any issues with movement in your X axis. I have watched all your videos. The X axis seems to move very freely when moving by hand and motors are disconnected. Any help would be great. PS I have ordered 10mm steel rods and bearings for the X axis to hopefully fix the issue but they will be some time in arriving and this is the only issue I have before I can start printing and reprint all my parts for better quality. Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on the issue.
Hello, well done with your build! I use carbon fibre tubes for my X axis, which I sanded down to allow the linear slide to travel smoothly across it. You can use steel rods and linear bearings for the X axis, but I would recommend 8mm steel diameter as the 10mm is just too heavy. Check the hypercube link on Thingiverse for instructions on using 8mm steel rods on the X gantry.
@@Tech2C Thanks Chris. I bought carbon rods and had them on but as mentioned I couldn't get the X axis to move freely due to the bad quality of my 3d printed parts. For this reason I swapped over to Aluminium tube but had no better luck. I'm thinking that there might be something in the Marlin that I have mucked up on the X axis as with the steel rod I have been able to get the X axis to move without any building however when I move the axis through Pronterface only the X axis shakes about. I know 10mm on the X axis is too heavy but I just need to get it moving without the shaking so I can reprint all my components. I'm using 8mm steel rods on the Y axis so intend to swap them to the 10mm once I get it going. I think I will download a fresh copy of Marlin and re program it to rule that out of the equation. BTW my printer is 500x500x500 ATM but I will probably shorten it a bit once I get it all running. Its that size as I wish to print some RC model planes with it as there are some great files out there for model planes. I have a youtube video showing the issue at th-cam.com/video/uXgi8UgRnmY/w-d-xo.html
Did the Al Extrusion bend after continuous use ?
Hi tech2c, is the 2020 aluminum frame sturdy enough for the whole body of the 3d printer?
Is 20x20mm t slot rigid enough for larger frames 450 or 500 mm per side or is 30 -40mm needed?
Hey kind of a dumb question, would an extrusion with the inner diameter of 6.4 instead of 6.2 mm pose a problem in the construction with all the other parts you listed?
Bushings that can bind under misalignment and aluminum rod is a really bad combination to consider. The bearings are going to tear up the aluminum very easily.
I am stuck like you with pruds i3. Lets make it . I think its Its awsome. thanks a lot
Quick question, where did you source the 8mm chrome rod from in Perth? My Prusa has stainless steel rod but want to try chrome rod as it may be smoother.
I have the pursa 3i printer with s broken frame, can i move are the parts over, and what is needed to complete the build..
judging from your accent, you are aussie like me, where did you get your screws? my local hardware is terrible for screws
Hope you've got theses videos all recorded. I really cant wait to see you go through this project. :)
What's the rush, haha. More vids coming...
I have a basic question, sorry if I display my ignorance, but here it is; Is the Core XY printer design limited to having the length of "X" equal to the "Y"? - I have a hankering to make a large-ish printer X,Y,Z = 400, 600,400mm. I realise I would have to beef up the frame somewhat, and some of the drive gear. Thanks.
nah, you can make it whatever dimensions you just might have to use thicker extrusions or stiffer alloys to go way bigger?
hello I want to build one like this but with the measures 525x525x550 how do I get the measures of the profiles to build it with this print volume? thank you
Any chance to have clamps made for lm8uu on the x carriage
What with the same pieces that you printed can enlarge the dimensions of the machine
That's sweet.
I'm currently building mine and there is something hard to see from the video, how much space do you leave between the 'floor' and the bottom XY plane of the printer ? Do you mount it as low as possible or do you need to leave space for clearance for example to mount the Z axis stepper ? Thanks
Hello
You make a great work for me. I follow you and you are a example.
Thank you so much
André
hey tech2c.... im new to the 3d printing world, i was wanting to build my own to start me into the hobby. i was just wandering...... if i was to obtain the 3d printed parts that you have designed am i right in thinking that those parts can be used on any size printer and the size of the printer is purely dictated by the 2020, rods and lead screw used...
also, are you able to supply the parts this printer and ship to the UK?
thanks in advance
Yes I can. Just send me a message on Thingiverse requesting the Hypercube parts set.
I am from Vietnam. Can I replace 10x SF-1 Steel (Bronze) Bushing with LM10UU
If you were going to build this today (9-24-18), which I3 kit would you start with? It looks like the Replikeo is no longer available.
Thanks
Can you please provide URL / link to the x axis rods please? I tried ordering some from the Thingiverse page for the build and feels extremely snug as it traverses through the bronze bushings. Is that normal?
This looks great. I was just thinking of upgrading my current plywood i3 frame, which is warped...
But the Core xy style looks much better and sturdier than the i3. Looking forward to the rest of the build :).
8 mm per rotation for the Z-axis result in 0.04mm per step (200 steps per rotation), that seems not accurate enough
Great video! keep them coming. I´d like to see the whole process.
well this is exciting!
Sure is :P
What is cost to build this printer . Where is stl file?.plz give me total list of part that to buy. I want to build this printer
How much did the printer cost in total?
C-bot/D-bot or a custom design? I'm sure whatever you build will print well. Can't wait to see how it progresses.
Custom design. I had a look at those and many others but I can't help but to design my own :)
Great project!
Have you looked into polymer bushings?
I was looking into them to improve my i3 x carriage, they seem cheap and manufacturer guidelines suggest using them on alluminium rods, just like yours.
I'm looking forward to the next videos!
Yeah I was investigating the igus bearings and have found them quite cheap online. If these bushings are not suitable I'll definately try them next. Cheers!
Hey Tech2C, can I ask where in Australia you got the box of M5 screws? I've been to three different Bunnings and the shortest I can find is only 12mm, and even then only in packs of 4 or 5 at $4 each!
Can always try ebay, saves you hunting in stores for them
Wow! Great video as always. I will be following this intently.
I too have a Prusa i3 DIY variant and have been thinking of upgrading it for a while now.
This looks like it could be perfect, though I do want to make it bigger :-)
Keep up the great work and thank you so much for sharing.
Will do! Thx!
you should check out the voron corexy 3d printer on reddit...its a great design and produces great prints with minimal tweaking
hi a question would like to know how u calibrate your z axis since u replace threaded rod to a lead screw, what would the steps be ?
Thanks
Very nice. Excited to see your build take life, will be following it closely! Instead of using the inductive proximity sensor, have you considered BLTouch hall effect based sensor? Works with any surface type and is ridiculously accurate. I've made the switch and it's been one of the best upgrades I've done to guarantee perfect first layers and a huge drop in failed prints. Just my two cents, not affiliated with bltouch in any way.
Apologies if you've already said, (I tried the links and only found carbon fiber) where did you locate the two different types of 10mm OD aluminum tubing? Thanks in advance.
Brian Scharp I wouldn’t use aluminum source good cf or go with the new linear rail design! Search Facebook for the hypercube group! There a bunch of awesome people
Hi, can you tell me which website to buy these parts? Thank you very much.
I was wondering if you have the A6 version (horizontalextuder) of your hypercube instead of A8 (vertical)
where did you get your nema 17 stepper moter with z axis rod attached to motor
Hi mate, fantastic tutorial, you have inspired me to build my own rather than buy one out of the box. my first question is what size of slot is on the profile? I've been looking on eBay for the extrusion and they all have different slot sizes ranging from profile 4,5,6,7,8. I know you are using 5mm nuts but is the profile 5 mm or bigger? I'm guessing it's 6 but not sure. also I've noticed further on in your build you've been printing your own parts, I don't have a printer, is there any way around that? can I purchase these anywhere?
As per the BOM on Thingiverse, you need Type 6 extrusion with the 6mm slot.
I thought you will make delta printer for your next 3d printer. I followed your video since starting replikeo as i bought replikeo too, you did a great video to modify the replikeo. May i know why you choosed corexy printer rather than delta printer?
Hey thanks for following! I chose the corexy design as I've seen many printers based on it producing great quality prints, and it can be built quite compact in size. Delta is interesting and I may look at a delta design in future.
Thank you for your video so far, my replikeo was modified exactly same as you made on video. its great modification. Last two month, I decided to make delta because the size is very compact, its take small space on table rather than replikeo. I saw the delta (atom 3d printer) on 3d printer exhibition in singapore early this year, the printer can do 50 micron, its make me surprise after that i decide to make delta. now i still doing calibration (its very hard one on delta)
one suggestion/idea Instead of copper bushings why not try polymer bushings... like igus bearings, they also sell igus filament, in theory you could print your own bushings...
Yes these are copper/steel bushings, not bronze, even though the ebay listing calls them bronze. I plan to start at the cheapest end of the price scale and work my up if the components are not satisfactory. Polymer/ptfe/igus bushings would be next for the alu rods.
Are you going with the ultimaker style where the bed moves for your z axis and your x and y are fixed at the top?
Similar yes.
+Tech2C never liked that design myself because of the wobble it could have, I'm going with a fixed build plate.
Do you still print parts for people to build this printer?
hello how much aluminum frame profiles do you need?
aluminium 2020 it strength ? support weight motor nema 17*3 pcs on aluminium 2020 length 400mm ?
how many teeth per inch on a jigsaw blade should I get to cut the aluminum extrusion nicely?
I used 32T on the hand saw.
Could you buy a anet a8 and use the parts for this?
this is awesome!
Can someone tell me what the total cost of supply's are?