Another fantastic job, especially on a black Cobalt. I have been using Total Boat total buff and total shine. I just did a dark red Beavertail skiff that looked pink. The results were amazing and super fast.
Great color correction as usual. I was hoping to see your secret to compounding inside the raised emblems. If you encounter one of these again that you are going to pull the emblems anyway, can you spend a few minutes demonstrating before emblem removal. FWIW, Several people learning the detailing trade come on this channel. Plastic razor blades need to be in your arsenal. $9.00 for 100 blades (Amazon) that fit in your razor blade holder. These are a must on curved fiberglass surfaces, curved acrylic windshields, plastic bumpers, motorcycle fairings, etc. A gouge through on colored gel is very hard to fix properly and will almost always be noticeable.
After doing this as long as I have, yes, plastic blades are safer but so much more annoying. I will use 3-4 razor blades a season, the same 3-4 and I typically have one in my mouth (you never know when you'll need one) For anyone new, yes, plastic blades are safe and a chip left by a razor digging into gelcoat can be a pain to remove. I suppose this is why I teach compounding only. There's a ton of different facets of this job that people should learn. I guess that's where I drop the ball. Good call.
Hey brother, as someone as good as you are, besides the work doing all the talking, when you first started, how did you sell to your customers? How did you convince them that your work is worth a try? How long did it take you to get to the point where you no longer needed to advertise, it just all came from word of mouth. Max
Good question, give me a sec.. Firstly I'll say thanks and I appreciate the kind words. I know people who clean interiors and the insides of ski/wake boats that blows me away. I might be ok at this aspect but there are many chapters in "detailing a boat" this is just one and I make a mess when I do it. I began using just 3M's liquid cleaner wax and a wool pad. I'd do every boat I saw with one and I'd make excuses for why some boats wouldn't shine up right. When I was able to get them all to shine, I'd find my crew at a new marina to us and even if a customer wanted a 5 out of 10, we'd give them a 10. It earned a reputation people wanted to test. Get tested a few times in a marina, own that marina. Offer free transom. Buff-outs. Let the detailer the boater normally uses do everything else but the spot you did. If done right, you'll get that customer. A convinced/switched customer is better than an ad. They'll get you people that already kind of respect you to begin with. All you have to do is not screw that up and it grows. We all want what we pay for. Most detailers are lazy. Not in that they don't work they don't work efficiently and profit more or as a boater, they don't deliver the "extra mile" unless paid to do so. I wanted every boat we touched to show, us. I could spot a brow we did in a line of 50 boats at one time at Elliot Bay in Seattle, until we'd done so many boats that I couldn't see ones we didn't touch. I exaggerate slightly but just slightly. My crew was amazing and their work was everything we were. Our wash crew was also held to a high standard to support the waxing crew. Great communication and education with customers, not over-selling the magic of a detail job. Trust in your work and charge more than average but offer to charge way less if they aren't happy. Challenge them not to like you. Do a boat for free in the front of a marina. If you kill it, everyone saw you there, being polite and helpful at the gate (not passing out shit for advertising, nobody likes that) do your job, ace it and let that get you called up. Be worth the money you're worth and don't be afraid to reach for more when you see yourself getting better. Weed out bad customers, they're out there like bad detailers. Don't be mean but be picky at first. Choose wars you can win, work up to one's that are more challenging when you are ready. Always practice, like anything, any sport or talent, practice. You can can make retirement money in this if you give more than you're asked, every time. Unless they're dicks and then you just don't do their boat next time.
@@Local_Boydidgood thank you so so much for the detailed reply. It’s people like you who make this industry just that much better! I’m just starting out, have a few years of experience but we all know that’s just the beginning. I’ve watched all of your videos (literally all of them) and have learned so so much from each and every single one of them. My setup is basically like yours (definitely influenced by you, that’s for sure). I’ve got the dewalt rotary, the same 3M products you use except the perfect it ex-ac. That’s only because I have been so comfortable using the perfect light cut + wax that I’m scared to try something new because of wasting my time and of course money. I do however, experiment here and there on my own boat so perhaps this summer I’ll be able to try the difference in the perfect it ex-ac vs the light cut + wax. I look forward to your videos this summer! Hopefully you try that Starke stuff out and let us know a honest opinion because everyone else seems to either get paid or get money from their discount codes. Not that I don’t trust them, but I rather have someone external with no ties tell me exactly how it is. Or perhaps I’ll give it a try before you do this summer, I’ll definitely reach out and let you know how that goes. Not that My opinion is any good for how new I am, but perhaps that gives you some foundation to work out of (thought wise). Cheers! Thanks for the reply again! Greatly appreciated.
@@Local_Boydidgood up here in Canada, our season is only so long. I’m trying to make a name for myself before next year so will definitely be working hard this spring and summer to get as many guys done (while providing the service at the best of my ability). Another question for you, what’s the best way to handle employees? How do you pay them? I’ve found it hard with a few of mine that do the work fine but either use excessive amounts of product (definitely not needed as it slings everywhere even when spread out + pad is caked after the 2nd run). That’s definitely something I struggle with. Any chance I can see what you price list or quote for certain boats are? I would like to adjust my list accordingly throughout the years to come but definitely don’t want to either undershoot or overshoot on prices. I do understand that they’re paying for how good you are but i believe I’m still under what I should be charging. Cheers
Don't get too fast. I do it to show off. Watch my last 2 vids, one finger at times. There's no right answer, what works for you might be different. Buffing is an art when done with a passion. You can find out faster than if I told you the wrong thing for your boat.
I was trying to stay away from 3m for so long. Using stark and marine 31 and Menzerna. 3m is the only way to go. I’m also trying to use perfect it mixed with some polymer sealant on my personal boat to see if I can get a better one step for people then using 3m medium cut with wax. U have any mixing chemistry or wizard polishes you’ve created over the years. Anyways thanks for teaching me the right ways. From midland Ontario
Hi. Mixing; yes. (some secrets are mine sorry. I teach them but only if someone attends a class. It's only fair to the people who have shown up and taken it back home) I can say, heavy cut would be a better choice but better than that would be Meguiar's #67 (the oils will saturate, the grit will cut and diminish and if the ratio is right, the oil level in the gelcoat could be low enough to allow the sealant to lattice up and even out over the surface. You'll need to make sure your lubricants mix well and none of the ingredients work as an acid or base that ingredients from the other, either compound (add to) or negate the pH level required for the product to work. Best to just compound it and wax it if they're repetitive customers, as a business model, it'll be easier and easier each time and the customer will love and promote you. Repeat with every boat and at your retirement party, send me a bottle. Lee
Try Meguiar's #67, 3M cleaner wax and a little flagship or 3m liquid wax in a half and half cleaner wax and compound and then add the wax till its smoothly pouring. Slap on thick, work it in well and let it sit for a while. Spool up a yellow pad you don't like anymore and grind. You'll be left with a glossy, waxed boat. I don't support this now that I compound everything but it can save you a ton of work when a customer is super cheap and you just don't care. The trick is dealing with the compound holograms, you'll have them because the grit doesn't get a chance to break down before you're finishing. So, make the swirl travel down the length of the boat so it doesn't stick out as a swirl but as a sheen that looks uniform. Fools most people.
@@Local_Boydidgood no I for sure understand that. And I appreciate your input. Sometimes you have people that don’t want to pay. I would never do it to a whole boat just in difficult spots. A lot of boats I do are 40-60 ft long and sometimes you need some sauce that’s gonna get the job done in difficult spots. Not looking for a 3 in 1 for a whole boat. Just in spots that you know are going to make you or break you or fall to your death lol. Anyways I appreciate your videos and all your info.
New boater here and out of the hundreds of video's I've gone through- yours are the best! Can't wait to give my first try at doing this. Quick question. I have a Crownline cruiser and my topside (from the bow to the window) consists of non-skid. I spend the end every trip cleaning that part of the boat (dirt, sand, etc) with a non-skid cleaner. What method do you recommend to wax/restore it?
Woody's wax or 3m cleaner wax applied with a stiff bristle brush. I don't generally. I just like them clean, unwaxed. They can be repainted/gelcoated fairly easily if you want new Non-skid. I apologize, I focus almost exclusively on gelcoat restoration and polishing. The Non-skid is never really something I enjoy doing. th-cam.com/video/t0MMKZ4BAF8/w-d-xo.html Might help? And thanks for the kind comments. I'm honored. Baby steps but if I can help, let me know.
Amazing work as usual. I need to do this on my 43’ fifth wheel. Any tips for protecting the vinyl stickers “graphics”? I bought it very oxidized and need to bring it back to life. I’ve never needed to correct my boat gel coat since I wax it 3 times per season.
3 times a season, you are brilliant (wishing everyone else did..) Your vinyl should last through a buffing (most do) avoid too much pressure /heat/friction building up around them. Your gelcoat can take quite a bit but your stickers don't like it. As long as you're going over them and not pausing on them, you should be ok. Worst case is you mask them all off, Buff the rig and then remove the tape and wax over them too. It'll take a few days. Pick defined sections to start and finish so you don't get frustrated and bored. You'll feel accomplished if you can finish a front and the back, one side and then the other. Good luck, thanks for watching and saying hi!
Looks great as always. Which pad do you use for each compound? You have listed the 05753 (Compounding Pad) and the 05754 (Polishing Pad). I assumed the 53 Pad with Heavy Cut and the 54 pad with EX AC? Which one finishes the best with EX AC?
If compounding, I just need a wool pad, any really, works well. I use the soft yellow pad to pull wax off. Compound is always with a woolnpad or a soft foam pad on a DA or a compounding foam pad (stiffer) Thanks!
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks! So any wool pan on the EX AC should work? Then wash and wax, right? Anytime I use a foam pad on a DA to try to finish the gelcoat, it leaves a hazy finish.
A rotary with a 3M wool pad and ex ac will do this. A foam pad is a blow-gun compared to the shotgun a rotary is. You need the muscle more than the movement. Lee
Another fantastic job, especially on a black Cobalt. I have been using Total Boat total buff and total shine. I just did a dark red Beavertail skiff that looked pink. The results were amazing and super fast.
I'm a fan of total boat.
@@Local_Boydidgood same here!
I've been impressed ever since I watched this guy's video demo.
th-cam.com/video/6SzZ5RRRh7A/w-d-xo.html
I can’t believe it’s taking out 600grit. Omg.
We'll, if you think that's special...
th-cam.com/video/fP9qf6sJPOA/w-d-xo.html
All buffer, no Sanding.
Nice work! Will the 3M super duty remove extreme hard water spots as well? I’ve tried everything. Barkeepers Friend works well on the chrome.
Thanks. Yes actually. Wear a face mask if you aren't used to it so you can avoid breathing it.
Great color correction as usual. I was hoping to see your secret to compounding inside the raised emblems. If you encounter one of these again that you are going to pull the emblems anyway, can you spend a few minutes demonstrating before emblem removal.
FWIW, Several people learning the detailing trade come on this channel. Plastic razor blades need to be in your arsenal. $9.00 for 100 blades (Amazon) that fit in your razor blade holder. These are a must on curved fiberglass surfaces, curved acrylic windshields, plastic bumpers, motorcycle fairings, etc. A gouge through on colored gel is very hard to fix properly and will almost always be noticeable.
th-cam.com/video/U5QrO3-tzkk/w-d-xo.html emblems
th-cam.com/video/9fN9Ljauz2Y/w-d-xo.html emblems done differently.
After doing this as long as I have, yes, plastic blades are safer but so much more annoying. I will use 3-4 razor blades a season, the same 3-4 and I typically have one in my mouth (you never know when you'll need one)
For anyone new, yes, plastic blades are safe and a chip left by a razor digging into gelcoat can be a pain to remove.
I suppose this is why I teach compounding only. There's a ton of different facets of this job that people should learn. I guess that's where I drop the ball. Good call.
How do you get into tight spaces such as under metal, in between logos, or spots on topside and compound them?
I use thin, old pads or foam pads that can compress. Be inventive. Power toothbrush or a dremel?
@@Local_Boydidgood thank you, I run into an issue not being able to fit my dewalt rotary in some spots. Going to give that a try
Detailers are generally inventive folks. I'm surr you'll find a fix.
Lee
Hey brother, as someone as good as you are, besides the work doing all the talking, when you first started, how did you sell to your customers? How did you convince them that your work is worth a try? How long did it take you to get to the point where you no longer needed to advertise, it just all came from word of mouth.
Max
Good question, give me a sec..
Firstly I'll say thanks and I appreciate the kind words. I know people who clean interiors and the insides of ski/wake boats that blows me away. I might be ok at this aspect but there are many chapters in "detailing a boat" this is just one and I make a mess when I do it.
I began using just 3M's liquid cleaner wax and a wool pad. I'd do every boat I saw with one and I'd make excuses for why some boats wouldn't shine up right.
When I was able to get them all to shine, I'd find my crew at a new marina to us and even if a customer wanted a 5 out of 10, we'd give them a 10. It earned a reputation people wanted to test. Get tested a few times in a marina, own that marina. Offer free transom. Buff-outs. Let the detailer the boater normally uses do everything else but the spot you did. If done right, you'll get that customer. A convinced/switched customer is better than an ad. They'll get you people that already kind of respect you to begin with. All you have to do is not screw that up and it grows.
We all want what we pay for. Most detailers are lazy. Not in that they don't work they don't work efficiently and profit more or as a boater, they don't deliver the "extra mile" unless paid to do so. I wanted every boat we touched to show, us. I could spot a brow we did in a line of 50 boats at one time at Elliot Bay in Seattle, until we'd done so many boats that I couldn't see ones we didn't touch. I exaggerate slightly but just slightly. My crew was amazing and their work was everything we were. Our wash crew was also held to a high standard to support the waxing crew. Great communication and education with customers, not over-selling the magic of a detail job.
Trust in your work and charge more than average but offer to charge way less if they aren't happy. Challenge them not to like you. Do a boat for free in the front of a marina. If you kill it, everyone saw you there, being polite and helpful at the gate (not passing out shit for advertising, nobody likes that) do your job, ace it and let that get you called up.
Be worth the money you're worth and don't be afraid to reach for more when you see yourself getting better.
Weed out bad customers, they're out there like bad detailers. Don't be mean but be picky at first. Choose wars you can win, work up to one's that are more challenging when you are ready.
Always practice, like anything, any sport or talent, practice. You can can make retirement money in this if you give more than you're asked, every time. Unless they're dicks and then you just don't do their boat next time.
@@Local_Boydidgood okiii
The gross sales for the company I partnered with was a mill in 2020 during Covid.. Done right, this is a career.
@@Local_Boydidgood thank you so so much for the detailed reply. It’s people like you who make this industry just that much better! I’m just starting out, have a few years of experience but we all know that’s just the beginning. I’ve watched all of your videos (literally all of them) and have learned so so much from each and every single one of them. My setup is basically like yours (definitely influenced by you, that’s for sure). I’ve got the dewalt rotary, the same 3M products you use except the perfect it ex-ac. That’s only because I have been so comfortable using the perfect light cut + wax that I’m scared to try something new because of wasting my time and of course money.
I do however, experiment here and there on my own boat so perhaps this summer I’ll be able to try the difference in the perfect it ex-ac vs the light cut + wax.
I look forward to your videos this summer! Hopefully you try that Starke stuff out and let us know a honest opinion because everyone else seems to either get paid or get money from their discount codes. Not that I don’t trust them, but I rather have someone external with no ties tell me exactly how it is. Or perhaps I’ll give it a try before you do this summer, I’ll definitely reach out and let you know how that goes. Not that My opinion is any good for how new I am, but perhaps that gives you some foundation to work out of (thought wise).
Cheers! Thanks for the reply again! Greatly appreciated.
@@Local_Boydidgood up here in Canada, our season is only so long. I’m trying to make a name for myself before next year so will definitely be working hard this spring and summer to get as many guys done (while providing the service at the best of my ability).
Another question for you, what’s the best way to handle employees? How do you pay them? I’ve found it hard with a few of mine that do the work fine but either use excessive amounts of product (definitely not needed as it slings everywhere even when spread out + pad is caked after the 2nd run). That’s definitely something I struggle with.
Any chance I can see what you price list or quote for certain boats are? I would like to adjust my list accordingly throughout the years to come but definitely don’t want to either undershoot or overshoot on prices. I do understand that they’re paying for how good you are but i believe I’m still under what I should be charging.
Cheers
So you hit it with the super duty twice to get rid of the emblem ghosting?
Basically, then heavy cut and perfect-it.
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks !! I noticed you start low speed then go high speed? Are you putting a lot of pressure?
Don't get too fast. I do it to show off.
Watch my last 2 vids, one finger at times. There's no right answer, what works for you might be different. Buffing is an art when done with a passion. You can find out faster than if I told you the wrong thing for your boat.
I was trying to stay away from 3m for so long. Using stark and marine 31 and Menzerna. 3m is the only way to go. I’m also trying to use perfect it mixed with some polymer sealant on my personal boat to see if I can get a better one step for people then using 3m medium cut with wax. U have any mixing chemistry or wizard polishes you’ve created over the years. Anyways thanks for teaching me the right ways. From midland Ontario
Hi. Mixing; yes. (some secrets are mine sorry. I teach them but only if someone attends a class. It's only fair to the people who have shown up and taken it back home)
I can say, heavy cut would be a better choice but better than that would be Meguiar's #67 (the oils will saturate, the grit will cut and diminish and if the ratio is right, the oil level in the gelcoat could be low enough to allow the sealant to lattice up and even out over the surface. You'll need to make sure your lubricants mix well and none of the ingredients work as an acid or base that ingredients from the other, either compound (add to) or negate the pH level required for the product to work.
Best to just compound it and wax it if they're repetitive customers, as a business model, it'll be easier and easier each time and the customer will love and promote you. Repeat with every boat and at your retirement party, send me a bottle.
Lee
I’ll share mine if you share yours ahaha… what’s the price on this class and where is it located?
Let's put a pin in that till after this Season. I'm thinking about going Mobile to train. We can talk about mixes sometime.
Try Meguiar's #67, 3M cleaner wax and a little flagship or 3m liquid wax in a half and half cleaner wax and compound and then add the wax till its smoothly pouring. Slap on thick, work it in well and let it sit for a while. Spool up a yellow pad you don't like anymore and grind. You'll be left with a glossy, waxed boat. I don't support this now that I compound everything but it can save you a ton of work when a customer is super cheap and you just don't care. The trick is dealing with the compound holograms, you'll have them because the grit doesn't get a chance to break down before you're finishing. So, make the swirl travel down the length of the boat so it doesn't stick out as a swirl but as a sheen that looks uniform. Fools most people.
@@Local_Boydidgood no I for sure understand that. And I appreciate your input. Sometimes you have people that don’t want to pay. I would never do it to a whole boat just in difficult spots. A lot of boats I do are 40-60 ft long and sometimes you need some sauce that’s gonna get the job done in difficult spots. Not looking for a 3 in 1 for a whole boat. Just in spots that you know are going to make you or break you or fall to your death lol. Anyways I appreciate your videos and all your info.
New boater here and out of the hundreds of video's I've gone through- yours are the best! Can't wait to give my first try at doing this. Quick question. I have a Crownline cruiser and my topside (from the bow to the window) consists of non-skid. I spend the end every trip cleaning that part of the boat (dirt, sand, etc) with a non-skid cleaner. What method do you recommend to wax/restore it?
Woody's wax or 3m cleaner wax applied with a stiff bristle brush. I don't generally. I just like them clean, unwaxed.
They can be repainted/gelcoated fairly easily if you want new Non-skid.
I apologize, I focus almost exclusively on gelcoat restoration and polishing. The Non-skid is never really something I enjoy doing.
th-cam.com/video/t0MMKZ4BAF8/w-d-xo.html
Might help?
And thanks for the kind comments. I'm honored. Baby steps but if I can help, let me know.
Amazing work as usual. I need to do this on my 43’ fifth wheel. Any tips for protecting the vinyl stickers “graphics”? I bought it very oxidized and need to bring it back to life. I’ve never needed to correct my boat gel coat since I wax it 3 times per season.
3 times a season, you are brilliant (wishing everyone else did..)
Your vinyl should last through a buffing (most do) avoid too much pressure /heat/friction building up around them. Your gelcoat can take quite a bit but your stickers don't like it.
As long as you're going over them and not pausing on them, you should be ok.
Worst case is you mask them all off, Buff the rig and then remove the tape and wax over them too.
It'll take a few days. Pick defined sections to start and finish so you don't get frustrated and bored. You'll feel accomplished if you can finish a front and the back, one side and then the other.
Good luck, thanks for watching and saying hi!
Looks great as always. Which pad do you use for each compound? You have listed the 05753 (Compounding Pad) and the 05754 (Polishing Pad). I assumed the 53 Pad with Heavy Cut and the 54 pad with EX AC? Which one finishes the best with EX AC?
If compounding, I just need a wool pad, any really, works well. I use the soft yellow pad to pull wax off.
Compound is always with a woolnpad or a soft foam pad on a DA or a compounding foam pad (stiffer)
Thanks!
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks! So any wool pan on the EX AC should work? Then wash and wax, right? Anytime I use a foam pad on a DA to try to finish the gelcoat, it leaves a hazy finish.
A rotary with a 3M wool pad and ex ac will do this. A foam pad is a blow-gun compared to the shotgun a rotary is. You need the muscle more than the movement.
Lee
One day, the inside of my boat will look like the outside!🤣
One day. Stay positive!
@@Local_Boydidgood Yeah man!
Just patience and time, with some beer.
@@Local_Boydidgood I'd rather drink beer and watch you do it!🤣🤣
Me too brother, me too. 😞