Important Disclaimer: This video only captures my take-aways and interpretations of the Rock Warriors Way. I am in no way associated with Rock Warriors Way and am not one of their trainers.
I loved the part at the end where you talk through your thoughts as you climb something beyond your comfort zone. Seeing your process laid out helps me better understand what my mind is doing in similar situations. Thank you. And your videos are very high quality and of great value to the climbing community.
Well done! Great and honest video! I love how you showed an example. It is often easier said than done yourself but with this example you can understand what it is like to apply the knowledge. Reading the book now and it is very insightful
I love that book, it has helped me work through my fear of falling. I also really enjoyed the video of your experience because for most climbers, this is our experience. Working through our fear by taking little steps forward and every time we take that next little step forward, we gain more and more confidence in the gear and our abilities (both climbing and placing gear). Keep making your videos, I think they are a great help to people trying to become a better and safer climber!
Thanks! I'm glad you got a lot out of the book as well. I think it's good to share the experiences we have as there are a lot of common underlying feelings / fears to work through and by sharing, we can realize that's normal and... okay.
Great video. I'm working through something similar right now. I learned to climb trad on limestone from a guide in my area, but I don't trust a single piece of pro, even if it is textbook and in good rock. This is obviously a mental thing because I know what good gear looks like and I can identify the pieces that I *should* trust, but committing to it is a non-starter. Since every climb feels like a free solo, I climb vastly lower grades on gear than I would on bolts or using a top rope and I spend much of the time panicking :P I do have larger climbing goals (long trad multi-pitches) that mean I've got to get over it. I think the best way to get over these anxieties is to do (safe) exposure; I'm not sure you can "mental game" your way out of it. So, I'm going to climb some sport routes, plug gear along the way, and take falls on gear (backed up by the bolts) to train my brain that good gear will hold. I'll also place some marginal pieces to see what actually rips and hopefully build some confidence in placements that are forced to be suboptimal...
Whatever strategy you can come up with to build your confidence in the pro will help. Similar to what the video said, once you can be confident in the pro, you can then draw a box around worst case scenario (almost like climbing on bolts). Good Luck on the big objectives! Doing more moderate big stuff also helps expand the comfort zone.
I don't have a fear of falling, but a fear of hitting the ground with speed. This video was helpful and thanks for the insight. It is something I am trying to overcome and have done a lot better with "controlling my mind" especially since my wife and I moved to the mountains where we have heights around us all the time.
Hello Jason, I am taking up a course of falling starting next month. I have decided because I have fear of falling and I can see how it is limiting to my performance. As soon as there is a harder problem on the route (I fear I will fall), or I feel I am getting pumped I get stressed as I do not believe I will hold myself and fall and soon I just ask my belayer to take...I have just started to seek more information about it and also found another book Vertical mind by Don McGrath and Jeff Elison. I guess I will check both of them :) I know that taking falls is also something everyone should train, from small to bigger falls, but somehow I am still avoiding it...that is why I decided for that course. So I hope it will help me to overcome that fear or at least improve it and then I will have to work on that by myself. Thank you for your channel I really appreciate your work and videos, I have learned quite a lot from You so far!! 2 weeks ago I was on my first multi pitch, I was really afraid of it before and did not want to try it because of the height and anchor stuff etc...I have learned much about it also from your videos, so I have prepared myself before the trip and went there with more experienced guy. It was amazing trip and even though I was afraid of it first I totally loved it then...I want to go for a multi pitch again, it is another level of experience :)
Very cool, glad you are getting a lot out of the channel. Multipitch is definitely a different and more enhanced experience as you spend more time on the rock. You'll gain confidence as you learn some more of the systems for hauling and rescue and stuff like that as well. Keep working on the mental game. It basically just turns into that the more advanced you get.
Man the mental battle is always the hardest one. I know I place good Pro on lead but it’s always in the back of my mind chipping away at me the higher I get. I need to remember the task at hand.
Thanks! I was asked to take the video down by the rangers at Rumbling Bald since it had my climbing business's logo in it and they said that classified as commercial use. (shrug) I didn't really put up a fight because I have to stay on good terms with all the rangers for obvious reasons.
Love your vids... but if you are scared to fall on the pro, this might be because you placed a sketch piece. Sometimes it helps building a little nest / mini-anchor if you are worried about a piece even if it might be bomber (if it is why are you scared? -{thoughts/headgame})... But yeah, toss another cam or nut or two or three to ensure you aren't going ANYWHERE. If you were scared of that piece, and you did a test fall and it pulled... where would you go next. That's another question you need to make sure you ask yourself. ergo, backin' it up as much as need be!
Exactly. Not sure if you could see in the footage of the actual climb, I had a horn slung right under the cam which enabled me to feel super positive in the pro strategy. Also, just recently was on T&B on Looking Glass and placed both a 0.4 and 0.3 cam on the crux and flopped all over it and felt super confident, even being high up.
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
Important Disclaimer: This video only captures my take-aways and interpretations of the Rock Warriors Way. I am in no way associated with Rock Warriors Way and am not one of their trainers.
I loved the part at the end where you talk through your thoughts as you climb something beyond your comfort zone. Seeing your process laid out helps me better understand what my mind is doing in similar situations. Thank you. And your videos are very high quality and of great value to the climbing community.
Thanks, glad you got a lot out of that, yeah, getting a grasp on some of these techniques can really help breaking through grades.
I LOVE the approach you take of discussing your mental state with a POV of climbing. Please keep doing these!
For Sure!
Redefining success and getting new motivation is a great point!
Excellent!! 👏👏👏
Well done! Great and honest video! I love how you showed an example. It is often easier said than done yourself but with this example you can understand what it is like to apply the knowledge. Reading the book now and it is very insightful
Very cool, glad you liked the video and you are getting a lot out of the book. Powerful concepts.
I love that book, it has helped me work through my fear of falling. I also really enjoyed the video of your experience because for most climbers, this is our experience. Working through our fear by taking little steps forward and every time we take that next little step forward, we gain more and more confidence in the gear and our abilities (both climbing and placing gear). Keep making your videos, I think they are a great help to people trying to become a better and safer climber!
Thanks! I'm glad you got a lot out of the book as well. I think it's good to share the experiences we have as there are a lot of common underlying feelings / fears to work through and by sharing, we can realize that's normal and... okay.
Superb honest video and thank you 🙏
Great video.
I'm working through something similar right now. I learned to climb trad on limestone from a guide in my area, but I don't trust a single piece of pro, even if it is textbook and in good rock. This is obviously a mental thing because I know what good gear looks like and I can identify the pieces that I *should* trust, but committing to it is a non-starter. Since every climb feels like a free solo, I climb vastly lower grades on gear than I would on bolts or using a top rope and I spend much of the time panicking :P I do have larger climbing goals (long trad multi-pitches) that mean I've got to get over it.
I think the best way to get over these anxieties is to do (safe) exposure; I'm not sure you can "mental game" your way out of it. So, I'm going to climb some sport routes, plug gear along the way, and take falls on gear (backed up by the bolts) to train my brain that good gear will hold. I'll also place some marginal pieces to see what actually rips and hopefully build some confidence in placements that are forced to be suboptimal...
Whatever strategy you can come up with to build your confidence in the pro will help. Similar to what the video said, once you can be confident in the pro, you can then draw a box around worst case scenario (almost like climbing on bolts). Good Luck on the big objectives! Doing more moderate big stuff also helps expand the comfort zone.
I don't have a fear of falling, but a fear of hitting the ground with speed. This video was helpful and thanks for the insight. It is something I am trying to overcome and have done a lot better with "controlling my mind" especially since my wife and I moved to the mountains where we have heights around us all the time.
Nice, glad to hear you are overcoming some of your fears.
This was great! Thanks!
Love your videos! Keep up the great work!
Thanks Man!
Hello Jason, I am taking up a course of falling starting next month. I have decided because I have fear of falling and I can see how it is limiting to my performance. As soon as there is a harder problem on the route (I fear I will fall), or I feel I am getting pumped I get stressed as I do not believe I will hold myself and fall and soon I just ask my belayer to take...I have just started to seek more information about it and also found another book Vertical mind by Don McGrath and Jeff Elison. I guess I will check both of them :)
I know that taking falls is also something everyone should train, from small to bigger falls, but somehow I am still avoiding it...that is why I decided for that course. So I hope it will help me to overcome that fear or at least improve it and then I will have to work on that by myself.
Thank you for your channel I really appreciate your work and videos, I have learned quite a lot from You so far!! 2 weeks ago I was on my first multi pitch, I was really afraid of it before and did not want to try it because of the height and anchor stuff etc...I have learned much about it also from your videos, so I have prepared myself before the trip and went there with more experienced guy. It was amazing trip and even though I was afraid of it first I totally loved it then...I want to go for a multi pitch again, it is another level of experience :)
Very cool, glad you are getting a lot out of the channel. Multipitch is definitely a different and more enhanced experience as you spend more time on the rock. You'll gain confidence as you learn some more of the systems for hauling and rescue and stuff like that as well. Keep working on the mental game. It basically just turns into that the more advanced you get.
Man the mental battle is always the hardest one. I know I place good Pro on lead but it’s always in the back of my mind chipping away at me the higher I get. I need to remember the task at hand.
So key to stay in the moment. That accumulation of stress is a tough one to deal with
Thanks for the video! I’ll sometimes will have a small psych out after a whip. I have to try to remind myself to breathe and not over grip.
Over grip means the climb is over for me.
Fantastic summary of a really great book. Thanks! BTW, what happened to that great video of Comatose that you had up for a while?
Thanks! I was asked to take the video down by the rangers at Rumbling Bald since it had my climbing business's logo in it and they said that classified as commercial use. (shrug) I didn't really put up a fight because I have to stay on good terms with all the rangers for obvious reasons.
@@summitseekersexperience Bummer. Thanks for letting me know!
Love your vids... but if you are scared to fall on the pro, this might be because you placed a sketch piece. Sometimes it helps building a little nest / mini-anchor if you are worried about a piece even if it might be bomber (if it is why are you scared? -{thoughts/headgame})... But yeah, toss another cam or nut or two or three to ensure you aren't going ANYWHERE.
If you were scared of that piece, and you did a test fall and it pulled... where would you go next. That's another question you need to make sure you ask yourself. ergo, backin' it up as much as need be!
Exactly. Not sure if you could see in the footage of the actual climb, I had a horn slung right under the cam which enabled me to feel super positive in the pro strategy. Also, just recently was on T&B on Looking Glass and placed both a 0.4 and 0.3 cam on the crux and flopped all over it and felt super confident, even being high up.