There is no substitute for years of firsthand experience. I am rebuilding a '47 2A and this series is very helpful. Thanks very much for taking the time and frustration to share your expertise.
Terry, glad you are enjoying the restoration series and getting some useful information out of it. comments like yours make all the set up and frustration of filming worth it. good luck on our cj2a rebuild.
Hey Brian--is reaming of the bushings required on this repair or does it depending on the bushings you get? Also how do you know if the worm gear or sector shaft (worn nubs) needs replacing? Love these videos
When new bushings are pressed into the housing they will need reaming. They close up when pressed in and always need to be finish reamed to size. Your sector shaft won't fit if you just press the bushings in and don't ream them. Look over the sector shaft carefully and see how badly the "nubs" are worn. If they are worn then you should replace the shaft. The tube and worm will show signs of wear if there was lack of lube, the wrong type of lube, water in the box, etc.... Look it over carefully and check for worn or damaged areas. Run your fingernail over the grooves of the worn and see if it catches on anything. It should be super smooth, not rough or jagged. Brian
Greetings! I have an unusual 1954 Willys station wagon and need some expert advice please. On my front dana 25 axle, I am replacing the brake shoes. I have already replaced the wheel cylinders but next come the brake shoes. Do I need a hub puller to get those drums off? I have the dual matic hub locks on this model, so I am wondering if the drums will separate without messing with the bearing again?? Your advice would be greatly appreciated as I can tell from your videos that you are definitely into this subject. I love dedication as I am an old welder and have played with cars for many years. Thanks for your time, Mark
Hi, I've broken down my Ross steering box and found both bearing cap retaining clips missing. Would you happen to have any of these kicking around (that I could purchase)? Also...what are you using for lube? Thanks in advance. You do very nice work BTW...
So question??? At my count rebuilding on the worm gear going into the box with the rebuild kit there's 22 ball bearings telling me 11 on top and 11 on bottom is this correct????🤔🤔🤔🤔
Sooo....when you’re removing the worm gear you have to remove the snap ring on the lower cup but then how does that cup come out? You have to remove the horn wire tube don’t you?
Hey I have a 1947 Cj2a and when I took my steering box apart I found that there is no tube in the center of the box on the center of the worm gear. Is this an older model thing or am I missing the tube? Also I found it strange that there is a hole for it in the middle of the worm gear. Do I have mismatched parts or am I missing a part? Also how does the top section seal off without a seal? Is it in the outer column tube? Or does fluid not usually make it past the upper bearing?
You need the tube in the steering box. Your horn wire goes thru the center of your tube and worm , thru the small tube you are missing , and out the bottom. It is necessary to have it. You can easily make one from some brake/fuel line and weld it to the bottom cap. It was originally swedged in place but a small tig weld will look fine. The top of the box does not have a seal and if you use the correct lubricant that I sell it will work fine. It does not come out the top of the box and will not leak. Hope this helps. Brian
I have a 1949 cj3a farm jeep that is stock to the bone, 56 yr. ownership. Doing a complete rebuild from butt hole to brain. I have a drilled boss at the top right hand corner of my flywheel housing near the starter bump that has a two hole L clip bolted to it. What is it for? I've seen pictures of them but no reference of purpose. Does someone know why it is there?
Novak's shaft is second to none used a few of them. They're seals are mediocre. Ron Fitzpatrick has nice double lip seals. FYI some newer seal tested is the newer repro stuff by desmet...
![เปิดใจ พี่ญา คนรุม หลังทัวร์ลง หนักสุดในชีวิต!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2-OJZRtclro/mqdefault.jpg)
Man You rock and love your videos. Doing a project and what a big help
There is no substitute for years of firsthand experience. I am rebuilding a '47 2A and this series is very helpful. Thanks very much for taking the time and frustration to share your expertise.
Terry,
glad you are enjoying the restoration series and getting some useful information out of it. comments like yours make all the set up and frustration of filming worth it. good luck on our cj2a rebuild.
I need lub for my steering box 1942 jeep, great job on the rebuild
Yet again, I'm in awe of your knowledge and skills. Additive viewing!
Thanks again for the comment. Keep watching my already posted videos and be looking for new ones that I post weekly.
Your videos are severely underrated
Thanks for another good video looking forward to seeing more
there are plenty more coming, keep watching. Thanks for being a continued supporter.
Thank you so much for these videos!
Thanks for the comment, keep watching much more coming.
metalshaper one quick question. Do I need a special puller for the mourning plate under the steering wheel?
Gran video, gracias por compartir su conocimiento.
steering box video is very helpful awesome
Where did you get the tool with the step for the bushings ? Man that little tool is awesome !
Mayor Fuglycool
Custom made on the lathe, I have made many different sizes of them for different sized bushings.
Always great useful content
спасибо за перевод
Hey Brian--is reaming of the bushings required on this repair or does it depending on the bushings you get? Also how do you know if the worm gear or sector shaft (worn nubs) needs replacing? Love these videos
When new bushings are pressed into the housing they will need reaming. They close up when pressed in and always need to be finish reamed to size. Your sector shaft won't fit if you just press the bushings in and don't ream them. Look over the sector shaft carefully and see how badly the "nubs" are worn. If they are worn then you should replace the shaft. The tube and worm will show signs of wear if there was lack of lube, the wrong type of lube, water in the box, etc.... Look it over carefully and check for worn or damaged areas. Run your fingernail over the grooves of the worn and see if it catches on anything. It should be super smooth, not rough or jagged.
Brian
Hi Brian , are you going to put on the outer tube and upper bearing ? also ever find a worm gear for me ?
yes outer tube and bearing are coming soon. I have looked thru a bunch of steering boxes but have still not found a usable worm gear for you.
Thank you he doe's have a great price !
Can I install the steering box and shaft before I install the tub ? I ned steering lube. Thanks
Greetings! I have an unusual 1954 Willys station wagon and need some expert advice please.
On my front dana 25 axle, I am replacing the brake shoes. I have already replaced the wheel cylinders but next come the brake shoes.
Do I need a hub puller to get those drums off?
I have the dual matic hub locks on this model, so I am wondering if the drums will separate without messing with the bearing again??
Your advice would be greatly appreciated as I can tell from your videos that you are definitely into this subject.
I love dedication as I am an old welder and have played with cars for many years.
Thanks for your time,
Mark
Just pull the locking hub, remove the locknuts and washers that hold the wheel bearings and the whole hub and drum will come off easily.
How do I get the different lubes you use. I'am doing my MB steering gear. TIA Neil C
contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net and I will send you as list of lubricants that I offer.
Brian
Where is the follow on video to this one?
Hi, I've broken down my Ross steering box and found both bearing cap retaining clips missing. Would you happen to have any of these kicking around (that I could purchase)? Also...what are you using for lube? Thanks in advance. You do very nice work BTW...
So question??? At my count rebuilding on the worm gear going into the box with the rebuild kit there's 22 ball bearings telling me 11 on top and 11 on bottom is this correct????🤔🤔🤔🤔
yes that will work fine. When they are all installed there will be just a little bit of space between the bearings.
Sooo....when you’re removing the worm gear you have to remove the snap ring on the lower cup but then how does that cup come out? You have to remove the horn wire tube don’t you?
What oil do you use in the steering box?
1000w. I have it in stock if you need any. contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
Hey I have a 1947 Cj2a and when I took my steering box apart I found that there is no tube in the center of the box on the center of the worm gear. Is this an older model thing or am I missing the tube? Also I found it strange that there is a hole for it in the middle of the worm gear. Do I have mismatched parts or am I missing a part?
Also how does the top section seal off without a seal? Is it in the outer column tube? Or does fluid not usually make it past the upper bearing?
You need the tube in the steering box. Your horn wire goes thru the center of your tube and worm , thru the small tube you are missing , and out the bottom. It is necessary to have it. You can easily make one from some brake/fuel line and weld it to the bottom cap. It was originally swedged in place but a small tig weld will look fine. The top of the box does not have a seal and if you use the correct lubricant that I sell it will work fine. It does not come out the top of the box and will not leak. Hope this helps.
Brian
There are a few matierals out there to make gaskets with I have found. I your opinion which one brand do you use, and where do you get it from?
i use different materials depending on what the gasket it for. Try a company like Allstate gasket and they can help with whatever you need.
What do you think of those Pete Debella body Tubs?
The new body tubs he is selling from India are the best out there right now. I will be doing a video as soon as the CJ3A arrives at my shop.
I have a 1949 cj3a farm jeep that is stock to the bone, 56 yr. ownership. Doing a complete rebuild from butt hole to brain. I have a drilled boss at the top right hand corner of my flywheel housing near the starter bump that has a two hole L clip bolted to it. What is it for? I've seen pictures of them but no reference of purpose. Does someone know why it is there?
it held a spring to bring back the starter mechanism after you pressed it with your foot to start the Jeep.
How do I purchase your steering box lubricant?
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net and I can send you a list.
Novak's shaft is second to none used a few of them. They're seals are mediocre. Ron Fitzpatrick has nice double lip seals. FYI some newer seal tested is the newer repro stuff by desmet...
was that willys of france ?
10:50 - 11:34
bom