After fabricating for 42 years, I would only add that the rotation of the disk or pad should grind or sand into the flat surface, removing any burrs. If the grinding or sanding sparks are coming off the corner, as opposed to riding over the flat surface, then they are leaving tiny burrs. They may be very small but are noticeably different when running the hand along the finished corner.
Use a corded 5 inch grinder with a regular quarter inch thick grinding disc made for steel. Keep as much surface area as possible on the material at all times and put lots of pressure on the grinder. DO NOT let the disc touch the material beyond the weld! Keeping lots of pressure on the disc ensures that you are removing only the hills and not grinding into the valleys of the weld. If you do it the way i described you can make the corners look like they were bent using a brake. This is coming from a welder/ fabricator with 44 years of experience,. P.S. Flapper discs are only good for polishing turds!
@@williamedmonds186 you don't need a flap disc or d/a period. You can get a perfect finish with just a quarter inch thick grinding disc. It takes practice but it very easy to do well if you keep as much surface area from the grinding disc on the weld with lots of pressure on the grinder. Move from one end of the weld to the other, non- stop if possible.
Nope…. Let the grinder do the work. Heavy pressure I how things go wrong fast. But then also, do what works for you. I am a fiberglass fabricator that occasionally works with metal too, and being heavy handed is where waves come from. Just my 1.75 cents.
Over the years I have tried tons and tons of different abrasives and my favorite is 3m cubitron ceramic. It is more expensive per disk but is cheaper than the amount of other disks you need to remove the same amount of material. More importantly than that is how fast it cuts. It more than pays for itself in labor savings. I also like the finish better than anything else. Most things there are trade-offs, but with cubitron it does everything better.
Chris your videos are always very informative and helpful thank you. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep forge lit. Keep Making. God bless.
I have welded sheetmetal all of my life. The best corner joint for tig in my opinion is Flush but. The reason being that this joint has exactly the right amount of filler metal. After tacking every half inch for the length of the seam on the outside. Fuse weld the inside of the corner. Then wash up and down a metal thickness from the corner on the outside. The result is a 100% weld that looks like jewelry. I used this process on stainless steel tank lids for many years.
No matter what you are doing, having the right tools is key. Whether it's welding, working on a car or building a house. You can get it done with the basic tools. But when you have a specialty tool that is designed to do a specific job. It can save so much time and aggravation.
Great video, butt can I give you one advise. I do interior design with metal end I always take the 3M CUBITRON disk . Works 10x faster end the finish is 100 times better.
Hello my friend Have you recorded the welding process of this piece? I would like to see it... I have also noticed that you are mounting the grinding disk as you are mounted the sanding one, as i understand they are mounted in a different way (i never used angle grinder😅) but maybe in the coming days i will, for that i keep watching videos for it. Good luck.
I would take a fibre disc or a linnen backed hookit disc for the first step. Use it with a flat backup pad. This allows me to keep it really flat and avoid gouging. Only pulling the disc as pushing creates deeper scratches than pulling. Then finish it with a Scotch-Brite disc . Would rather not take any kind of flap disc as they can create a hollow in a flat surface.
Looks like your weld was machined down on a knee mill. The angle grinder accessories of today are better than yesterday's to make every step easier and better.
Fab tech also sounds like a good place to get a jump on the used market when you see someone looking into upgrading their machines… “you looking to get rid of your old one?👀”
I like battery powered power tools but what comes to angle grinder, at least 18V Makita is not good for anything else than quick grinds or cuts. It draws the battery empty in no time.
Zeph, I dig your stuff, but I gotta be honest man, your videos have gotten more commercial and less about making stuff. I get that you have to pay the bills, but you sold me on pferd and WD-40 a long time ago. Maybe do some more videos on the stuff you make without so much corporate shilling.
I appreciate the comment. I do want to clarify though, I only integrate products into projects in already doing, unless I’m showing off a specific tool that I think is cool or worth having. In this case I am grinding these pedestals anyway, and in the past I would use a combination of discs, and get a less consistent result. I work with PFERD because they make the best abrasives I’ve ever used. I’ve been approached by every other abrasive company and stick with what I think is best and what I want to share with my audience, not with who would potentially pay me the most money to advertise for them. The same sponsor mentions might seem repetitive if you watch my videos regularly, but I personally prefer to see consistency in brands people use as opposed to watching them jump from company to company for a buck. Either way, thanks for watching!
@ flapper disc to bring down the high welds. Flapper wheels to blend the grain on a die grinder, scotch brite pads by hand to feather and a belt sander with sand paper belts and scotch brite belts . Practice and patience too. Sometimes a buffing wheel
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Gotta say this is probably the best sales video for PFERD on TH-cam. You obviously know your skill set and this is a great video.
After fabricating for 42 years, I would only add that the rotation of the disk or pad should grind or sand into the flat surface, removing any burrs. If the grinding or sanding sparks are coming off the corner, as opposed to riding over the flat surface, then they are leaving tiny burrs. They may be very small but are noticeably different when running the hand along the finished corner.
Use a corded 5 inch grinder with a regular quarter inch thick grinding disc made for steel. Keep as much surface area as possible on the material at all times and put lots of pressure on the grinder. DO NOT let the disc touch the material beyond the weld! Keeping lots of pressure on the disc ensures that you are removing only the hills and not grinding into the valleys of the weld. If you do it the way i described you can make the corners look like they were bent using a brake. This is coming from a welder/ fabricator with 44 years of experience,. P.S. Flapper discs are only good for polishing turds!
Then finish with what? Flap disk then d/a? What directions are you going each step?
@@williamedmonds186 you don't need a flap disc or d/a period. You can get a perfect finish with just a quarter inch thick grinding disc. It takes practice but it very easy to do well if you keep as much surface area from the grinding disc on the weld with lots of pressure on the grinder. Move from one end of the weld to the other, non- stop if possible.
Nope…. Let the grinder do the work. Heavy pressure I how things go wrong fast. But then also, do what works for you. I am a fiberglass fabricator that occasionally works with metal too, and being heavy handed is where waves come from. Just my 1.75 cents.
@@brucemitchell5637what's your definition of "perfect" finish? Because I think yours is like 36 grit and mine is, well, not 36 grit.
Over the years I have tried tons and tons of different abrasives and my favorite is 3m cubitron ceramic. It is more expensive per disk but is cheaper than the amount of other disks you need to remove the same amount of material. More importantly than that is how fast it cuts. It more than pays for itself in labor savings. I also like the finish better than anything else. Most things there are trade-offs, but with cubitron it does everything better.
fiber sanding discs 80 and 120 you can make the outside corners look like a machining finnish
Chris your videos are always very informative and helpful thank you. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep forge lit. Keep Making. God bless.
Cool, so it takes about 2 minutes and 15 seconds per inch of grinding to get an acceptable corner.
Thanks for sharing your process!
Thanks for watching, it was 18 inches of corner, so in the 7 minutes it took to grind it your looking at about 2.5” per minute.
Nice video. Experience/practice goes a long way with this work too. I wouldn’t try this on a finished piece for the first time.
I have welded sheetmetal all of my life.
The best corner joint for tig in my opinion is
Flush but. The reason being that this joint has exactly the right amount of filler metal.
After tacking every half inch for the length of the seam on the outside. Fuse weld the inside of the corner. Then wash up and down a metal thickness from the corner on the outside.
The result is a 100% weld that looks like jewelry. I used this process on stainless steel tank lids for many years.
I’d like to see this process!
No matter what you are doing, having the right tools is key. Whether it's welding, working on a car or building a house. You can get it done with the basic tools. But when you have a specialty tool that is designed to do a specific job. It can save so much time and aggravation.
Thanks for the advice about using low speed on the sanding discs!
Great video, butt can I give you one advise.
I do interior design with metal end I always take the 3M CUBITRON disk .
Works 10x faster end the finish is 100 times better.
Hello my friend
Have you recorded the welding process of this piece? I would like to see it...
I have also noticed that you are mounting the grinding disk as you are mounted the sanding one, as i understand they are mounted in a different way (i never used angle grinder😅) but maybe in the coming days i will, for that i keep watching videos for it.
Good luck.
I would take a fibre disc or a linnen backed hookit disc for the first step. Use it with a flat backup pad. This allows me to keep it really flat and avoid gouging. Only pulling the disc as pushing creates deeper scratches than pulling. Then finish it with a Scotch-Brite disc . Would rather not take any kind of flap disc as they can create a hollow in a flat surface.
Could you do a video on making things last? Like flapper wheels etcetera ?
Great info, always good to know the best tools for a job.
Fave channel
Looks like your weld was machined down on a knee mill. The angle grinder accessories of today are better than yesterday's to make every step easier and better.
Very nice. I think I will buy a variable speed grinder in the future :-)
Really nice product
Looks awesome!!!!
Who needs welding school when you got this channel lol
Fab tech also sounds like a good place to get a jump on the used market when you see someone looking into upgrading their machines… “you looking to get rid of your old one?👀”
could the 61167 disc be used knocking down welds on 'butt welded' repair panels on autos?
Thank just what eyes need
How square is that finish
I like battery powered power tools but what comes to angle grinder, at least 18V Makita is not good for anything else than quick grinds or cuts. It draws the battery empty in no time.
Zeph, I dig your stuff, but I gotta be honest man, your videos have gotten more commercial and less about making stuff. I get that you have to pay the bills, but you sold me on pferd and WD-40 a long time ago. Maybe do some more videos on the stuff you make without so much corporate shilling.
I appreciate the comment. I do want to clarify though, I only integrate products into projects in already doing, unless I’m showing off a specific tool that I think is cool or worth having. In this case I am grinding these pedestals anyway, and in the past I would use a combination of discs, and get a less consistent result. I work with PFERD because they make the best abrasives I’ve ever used. I’ve been approached by every other abrasive company and stick with what I think is best and what I want to share with my audience, not with who would potentially pay me the most money to advertise for them. The same sponsor mentions might seem repetitive if you watch my videos regularly, but I personally prefer to see consistency in brands people use as opposed to watching them jump from company to company for a buck. Either way, thanks for watching!
Great
👍👍👍👍👍
I’ve been working on stainless steel panels for over 30 years. It’s weld with full penetration, grind, polish and blend the grain. Time consuming
I amwatching videos to find what tools and pads are best for blending on an already grained surface
@ flapper disc to bring down the high welds. Flapper wheels to blend the grain on a die grinder, scotch brite pads by hand to feather and a belt sander with sand paper belts and scotch brite belts . Practice and patience too. Sometimes a buffing wheel
👍👍
Nice, but the first step is almost six minutes to do about thirty inches of small bead.
👍
Cordless grinders are disappointing, I have Ryobi one, brushless and battery life though better than brushed version is still very disappointing
He then sent this to the deburrers to take his grind marks out 🤣🖕🏽
Those poly-whatever discs are something like 20 bucks a piece. They're great, I agree, but stupid expensive for a damn flap disc.