Very glad to see a veteran Hand tool woodworker teaching on TH-cam who knows the trade in and out, rather than the hobbyists (blind leading the blind). Great videos and I’m looking forward to your future uploads! Thank you
I rewatched your card scraper video and in particular the sharpening section. It was very helpful and explained clearly. It worked perfectly for an old Disston scraper I had in the shop and previously used with little effect. Thank you.
I read in a book on Japanese Woodworking that they sometimes wipe a damp cloth over the surface of the wood to prevent teat out. The moisture softens the fibers and helps prevent the tearing
Thank you very much for a very informative video on inserting a plane mouth reducing insertion. Your video is the most informative one on youtube. It's complete and easily understood. Love your channel.
So glad I chanced upon this series. A master, teaching simply and clearly, and one who clearly loves his trade. Vanishing skills with so many various power tools available. Very informative and enjoyable to watch. Thank you sir
You make remouthing a plane look easier than it probably is. That's what experience does. At the moment, the only wooden plane I have is a new Ulmia block plane. I'll have to keep my eye out for a vintage wooden plane that might need remouthing. Thanks for the education. One never knows too much.
I just did this yesterday to a smoothing plane and initial testing says it works great. I have a couple metal body planes with an adjustable mouth plate and that really drove home how important this is. Most of my wooden bench planes need this treatment.
How about resoling instead? Wouldn't that be a bit less technical? (Especially if I do that with two half-soles meeting at the mouth, counting on the rest of the body for overall integrity and stiffness)
This whole subject is fascinating.. begs the question just how adjustable should a frog be on a modern plane , and makes sense of why you should have a selection of planes - set up for different thickness cuts- wide mouth for roughing and very narrow for finishing..? “
Different planes makes sense, but the basic rule is the mouth should be no wider than the thickness of the shaving you want, and the thinner the less likely is tearout.
Masterclass. Every detail has a reason. After watching many woodworking videos from new generation of woodworkers, I can say that some important details were lost.
I just remouthed my first plane. I wish I had seen this video first. Actually I did most of what you have shown. The only mistake I made was the mouth is wider than it needs to be. Oh, well, I will get it right next time. Thanks for the great video, keep the good stuff coming.
Terrific video. Thank you so much for posting. I’m looking forward to checking out your other videos. Outside of the mouth opening size, does your planning technique change when planing across or against the grain?
I had tried to remouth one plane and it was semi-successful. After watching this video, I think I better understand some of the finer points. I will try this again on some of my other planes. Thanks for the information.
Graham, you’re a real treasure in a modern woodworking environment. Hand work is slowly disappearing. I would like to see you demonstrate the processes that you describe rather than just talk about them. I think your viewers would be very interested in watching the processes of doing the work as well as hearing about it. In watching, they will learn much from seeing your skills and techniques and become more proficient in their own handwork. Keep these videos coming.
Thank you,lm known steptoe to my friends because alway get old tools no one want fix them and use them,I just subscribed and I have 3 planes.wooden Coffin,jack jointer that work around the mouth on sole so thank you for showing me.cheers terry
Just a lesson I learned: I remouthed a plane but used a flatsawn piece of beech to remouth a quartersawn hickory plane. The beech expanded and blew out the cheek on one side. So pay attention to the orientation and maybe the species combination, but I think the orientation is the big one. Wood moves much more radially than it does tangentially.
New subscriber, based on a suggestion in one of Rex Krueger's videos. Very interesting that this, the first of your videos I have seen, is about wood-bodied planes. I have several that need some work, I feel a need to be careful with them. I got them from my father, who got them from my grandfather, who was a reasonably well-known woodworker in the area of England he lived in.
Didn't do it because I have several already done and I need to keep one for students - but I will do it again later as soon as I pick up another wooden plane that needs remouthing.
Hi Graham. It is wonderful to meet you here. Some years ago, when you filled in at a wood show for the late David Charlesworth, I recall others mentioning that you discussed setting a close set chipbreaker to control tear out. In my experience, working with interlocked Australian timbers, a closed up mouth does relatively little to reduce or prevent tear out. Even planing with the grain is not enough since there is reversing grain with which to contend. Closing up a chipbreaker (to around 0.4mm behind the blade's edge) works wonders in this regard. Now this video is all about the size of the mouth, and no mention is made of the chipbreaker. Furthermore, a closed up chipbreaker will be affected negatively by a small mouth (preventing shavings escaping past the leading edge of the chipbreaker). The size of the mouth is also irrelevant when the cutting angle reaches half-pitch (60 degrees). Could you comment here or, better still, respond with a video. Regards from Perth, Australia. Derek
You are of course largely right (except that I do in fact mention the chipbreaker at 9.26) and yes, of course, the secret is to adjust the chipbreaker in concert with the size of the mouth. At this point I am endeavouring just to cover some basic principles (my producer is constantly on my case to reduce the amount of information in each episode,) but at some point I will indeed discuss in more detail the niceties you mention, but for the moment I have to build a following. For most people the concept of chipbreaker and small mouth is already a huge discovery. But I promise you I'll get to it. Thanks for watching and especially for your comments.
@@gjbmunc Thank you Graham. Many will benefit from an explanation and demonstration of the chipbreaker's role and set up. It is a game changer. I look forward to this edition. Regards from Perth, Derek
Why didn't you SHOW us the fine shavings your newly mouthed plane can make--you seem to demo only, but we are watching to SEE your work and the results. thanks!
Very informative, but remouthing is pretty intimidating to most amatuer woodworkers. We are afraid to mess up the whole thing. That being said, I guess we can't get good at it until we've tried.
Great content, wonderful teaching. For the videographer; stop the zoomy/swoopy video work - it's pointless and distracting. Especially when your sound source is the camera microphone Thank you
Re-mouthing a plane is a lost art and you have imparted that knowledge... well done and thank you.
Many thanks!
Very glad to see a veteran Hand tool woodworker teaching on TH-cam who knows the trade in and out, rather than the hobbyists (blind leading the blind). Great videos and I’m looking forward to your future uploads! Thank you
Not sure how veteran I am but thank you so much anyway
I rewatched your card scraper video and in particular the sharpening section. It was very helpful and explained clearly. It worked perfectly for an old Disston scraper I had in the shop and previously used with little effect. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
It’s nice to see a video that’s not about a table saw. Thanks
You're welcome!
Haven't done this yet, but need to do it on a coffin smoother I have
I read in a book on Japanese Woodworking that they sometimes wipe a damp cloth over the surface of the wood to prevent teat out. The moisture softens the fibers and helps prevent the tearing
May well work with Japanese planes.
@@gjbmunc I've tried it with my old Stanley's. It seems to work on troublesome grain
Thank you very much for a very informative video on inserting a plane mouth reducing insertion. Your video is the most informative one on youtube. It's complete and easily understood. Love your channel.
Glad it was helpful!
So glad I chanced upon this series. A master, teaching simply and clearly, and one who clearly loves his trade. Vanishing skills with so many various power tools available. Very informative and enjoyable to watch. Thank you sir
Yes, it's the vanishing skills I think are so important in order to maintain a balance with technology if we are to remain human.
You make remouthing a plane look easier than it probably is. That's what experience does. At the moment, the only wooden plane I have is a new Ulmia block plane. I'll have to keep my eye out for a vintage wooden plane that might need remouthing. Thanks for the education. One never knows too much.
Good luck!
Thank you Graham, I prefer to use hand tools and your lectures have helped me alot.
Great to hear!
I just did this yesterday to a smoothing plane and initial testing says it works great. I have a couple metal body planes with an adjustable mouth plate and that really drove home how important this is. Most of my wooden bench planes need this treatment.
Great!
Tks a lot sir for your teaching 👍👍👍
It's my pleasure
Very instructive sir . I love the no nonsense approach you take to your videos . Nothing wasted and extremely useful . Cheers
So nice of you
Excellent tutorial, thanks
You are welcome!
Very intriguing
Watch for a more deailed episode - even more intriguing!
@@gjbmunc I will I enjoy your channel
Excellent !
Many thanks!
How about resoling instead? Wouldn't that be a bit less technical?
(Especially if I do that with two half-soles meeting at the mouth, counting on the rest of the body for overall integrity and stiffness)
Sounds like it might work....
This whole subject is fascinating.. begs the question just how adjustable should a frog be on a modern plane , and makes sense of why you should have a selection of planes - set up for different thickness cuts- wide mouth for roughing and very narrow for finishing..? “
Different planes makes sense, but the basic rule is the mouth should be no wider than the thickness of the shaving you want, and the thinner the less likely is tearout.
Masterclass. Every detail has a reason. After watching many woodworking videos from new generation of woodworkers, I can say that some important details were lost.
Thanks 👍
I was pointed here by Wortheffort, and was not disappointed. Thank you for making these videos!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love these videos! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad you like them!
I just remouthed my first plane. I wish I had seen this video first. Actually I did most of what you have shown. The only mistake I made was the mouth is wider than it needs to be. Oh, well, I will get it right next time. Thanks for the great video, keep the good stuff coming.
Never mind, we all learn well from attempts less than perfect. Keep going@
Terrific video. Thank you so much for posting. I’m looking forward to checking out your other videos. Outside of the mouth opening size, does your planning technique change when planing across or against the grain?
It's usually easier to plane across the grain with the iron adjusted for finer shavings.
Oh, you will become an icon of TH-cam and our wooden universe.
Just hope I can save a bit of the old knowledge before we all succumb to machines!
I had tried to remouth one plane and it was semi-successful. After watching this video, I think I better understand some of the finer points. I will try this again on some of my other planes. Thanks for the information.
Glad it helped! Keep going!
Graham, you’re a real treasure in a modern woodworking environment. Hand work is slowly disappearing. I would like to see you demonstrate the processes that you describe rather than just talk about them. I think your viewers would be very interested in watching the processes of doing the work as well as hearing about it. In watching, they will learn much from seeing your skills and techniques and become more proficient in their own handwork. Keep these videos coming.
Thanks, will do!
Thank you,lm known steptoe to my friends because alway get old tools no one want fix them and use them,I just subscribed and I have 3 planes.wooden Coffin,jack jointer that work around the mouth on sole so thank you for showing me.cheers terry
Great! Thanks!
Just a lesson I learned:
I remouthed a plane but used a flatsawn piece of beech to remouth a quartersawn hickory plane. The beech expanded and blew out the cheek on one side. So pay attention to the orientation and maybe the species combination, but I think the orientation is the big one. Wood moves much more radially than it does tangentially.
So true!
Why woodworkers are using that yellow mesure tape. What is special in that.
Readily available more so than tdaditional folding rules.
Graham, New to your channel and really liking your stuff, but PLEASE: show us your work, such are excavating--that is why I am watching! thanks.
Will do
New subscriber, based on a suggestion in one of Rex Krueger's videos.
Very interesting that this, the first of your videos I have seen, is about wood-bodied planes. I have several that need some work, I feel a need to be careful with them. I got them from my father, who got them from my grandfather, who was a reasonably well-known woodworker in the area of England he lived in.
Great, go for it!
Graham, please address why it wouldn't be better to place a piece full width on the plane as opposed to creating a the 5 sided version.
In my opinion I wouldn't want to mess up the sides of a wooden plane, as for 5-sided that's up to you, pyramid or square would also be fine.
Iwould have bee interested in actually SEEING you cut the recess...
Didn't do it because I have several already done and I need to keep one for students - but I will do it again later as soon as I pick up another wooden plane that needs remouthing.
Hi Graham. It is wonderful to meet you here. Some years ago, when you filled in at a wood show for the late David Charlesworth, I recall others mentioning that you discussed setting a close set chipbreaker to control tear out. In my experience, working with interlocked Australian timbers, a closed up mouth does relatively little to reduce or prevent tear out. Even planing with the grain is not enough since there is reversing grain with which to contend. Closing up a chipbreaker (to around 0.4mm behind the blade's edge) works wonders in this regard. Now this video is all about the size of the mouth, and no mention is made of the chipbreaker. Furthermore, a closed up chipbreaker will be affected negatively by a small mouth (preventing shavings escaping past the leading edge of the chipbreaker). The size of the mouth is also irrelevant when the cutting angle reaches half-pitch (60 degrees). Could you comment here or, better still, respond with a video. Regards from Perth, Australia. Derek
You are of course largely right (except that I do in fact mention the chipbreaker at 9.26) and yes, of course, the secret is to adjust the chipbreaker in concert with the size of the mouth. At this point I am endeavouring just to cover some basic principles (my producer is constantly on my case to reduce the amount of information in each episode,) but at some point I will indeed discuss in more detail the niceties you mention, but for the moment I have to build a following. For most people the concept of chipbreaker and small mouth is already a huge discovery. But I promise you I'll get to it. Thanks for watching and especially for your comments.
@@gjbmunc Thank you Graham. Many will benefit from an explanation and demonstration of the chipbreaker's role and set up. It is a game changer. I look forward to this edition. Regards from Perth, Derek
Your producer is probably not a woodworker... please include the details and also all the making process. Many thanks.
Outstanding, I have a transitional that will get this treatment, thanks.
I believe some transitionals have frogs that can be moved foreward....check first, but it would still be a good idea to shoot the sole perfectly flat.
Enjoying your videos. This one is interesting, but it would be great to see another one where you undertake the process not just describe it.
I'll give it a go....
Why didn't you SHOW us the fine shavings your newly mouthed plane can make--you seem to demo only, but we are watching to SEE your work and the results. thanks!
Sorry, I'll try and include it in a future episode.
I love the video, but I'm curious why you didn't actually fix your plane.
Have several already fixed but need this one for in-person classes.
@@gjbmunc Okay, that make sense. There can't be that many old tools to be restored at one time.
Very informative, but remouthing is pretty intimidating to most amatuer woodworkers. We are afraid to mess up the whole thing. That being said, I guess we can't get good at it until we've tried.
Go for it - it's just wood after all.
Great content, wonderful teaching.
For the videographer; stop the zoomy/swoopy video work - it's pointless and distracting. Especially when your sound source is the camera microphone
Thank you
Noted! Plus we have a better mike now and the 'swooping' will be minimized as soon as I can afford more cameramen!