PBS for years had two woodworkers, one did everything with a power tool. the other did it all by hand, even a foot powered lathe. We all know what one you are. This is good work. I hope the craft is kept going in future generations
The “thank you” goes to you. Mr Blackburn. Your sharing is much appreciated and very interesting. I particularly appreciate Sellers, Krueger, and Blackburn. You’re all patient and practical.
Wonderful! This is just what the doctor ordered! Nothing is more wonderful than working wood with traditional hand tools. I'm not opposed to machines, but the joy of the material, the sounds of a wooden plane or an auger bit in your brace, the smells-is pure bliss.
I truly enjoy the quiet traditional hand work. I get really tired of seeing all the shops filled with very expensive power tools. Unless one is a manufacturer, and sells their work professionally, I just can't see the justification. I certainly understand the lure of power tools. We tend to want skill and precision, right now!! And it takes practice as well as patience. Thank you so much for sharing you experience.
Could you demonstrate how you would use a combination plane to perform the various tasks you have been demonstrating with moulding planes. It would be1. unique, 2. very useful, and 3. assist in preserving them.
I just read that PVA was discovered in 1912, but when did it come on the market in glue form. Elmer's Glue was a casein glue for a long time if I understand things correctly!?
I enjoyed that. Could you give a guide as to how you measure the panel so that it is the right size? How much play would you recommend leaving for expansion?
The grooves should be deep enough to allow for any possible expansion of the panel withouth pushing the frame apart, and at the same time deep enough that no matter how much the panel shrinks it still stays in the frame - both of which facts depend on the possible expansion and contraction of the panel which is a function of the species of wood and the environment. Try and check out both facts by learning as much as possible about the particular species (use the online Depr of Agriculture 'Wood Handbook' and the weaather conditions for the intended location of the piece. (I have got this wrong a number of times!!)
@@gjbmunc Thank you Graham. Damn and I thought there might be a short cut. 😁 I presume you mean this document: www.fpl.fs.usda.gov/documnts/fplgtr/fpl_gtr190.pdf. Looks like I've got some reading to do. Thanks again for a great video and the follow up advice.
I love this look and raised panels but getting a hold of a plane like this is not easy nor cheap. So I would love to see if this look can be achieved with a regular smoothing plane ?
Thanks for the video and information. How do you determine the size of the panel (width and length), that is, how much you leave for the movement of the wood. Is there a magic formula depending on the size of the panel?
The grooves should be deep enough to allow for any possible expansion of the panel withouth pushing the frame apart, and at the same time deep enough that no matter how much the panel shrinks it still stays in the frame - both of which facts depend on the possible expansion and contraction of the panel which is a function of the species of wood and the environment. Try and check out both facts by learning as much as possible about the particular species (use the online Depr of Agriculture 'Wood Handbook' and the weaather conditions for the intended location of the piece. (I have got this wrong a number of times!!
You can always use a rabbet plane as shown to make the tongue to fit in the panel's groove, and then use the same rabbet plane (or a wider one) with a fence attacched to the panel to plane the sloping part - even producing a 'raised' center field if you like.
You're quite right, but as George Bernard Shaw (and sometimes Winston Churchill) once said "America and Britain are two countries separated by a common language". Being originally English I prefer to keep 'rebate' for a monetary dispensation, and use 'rabbet' (which actually comes from the French 'rabattre' meaning to beat back and which seems to make a little more sense in the woodworking technique) for woodworking; but I confess I frequently get them mixed up having been here (in America) for so long. Hope you understand.
PBS for years had two woodworkers, one did everything with a power tool. the other did it all by hand, even a foot powered lathe. We all know what one you are. This is good work. I hope the craft is kept going in future generations
Me too, thanks. I think it helps in an increasingly automted age.
Sound of Music! Fascinated by the Traditional Woodworkkng, hugs from Tuscany
You're very welcome!
I enjoyed this Graham - I always think you do this so well - single topic, short videos, packed with information. Thanks!
You're welcome!
The sound of a sharp plane slicing through wood really is music. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
You're welcome!
Love those antique technic /tools showed. I am unplugged and always learning . Didn’t even know a plane like this existed!
Glad you enjoyed it!
The “thank you” goes to you. Mr Blackburn. Your sharing is much appreciated and very interesting. I particularly appreciate
Sellers, Krueger, and Blackburn. You’re all patient and practical.
Thanks so much!
Wonderful! This is just what the doctor ordered! Nothing is more wonderful than working wood with traditional hand tools. I'm not opposed to machines, but the joy of the material, the sounds of a wooden plane or an auger bit in your brace, the smells-is pure bliss.
Couldn't agree more!
I truly enjoy the quiet traditional hand work. I get really tired of seeing all the shops filled with very expensive power tools. Unless one is a manufacturer, and sells their work professionally, I just can't see the justification. I certainly understand the lure of power tools. We tend to want skill and precision, right now!! And it takes practice as well as patience. Thank you so much for sharing you experience.
Well said!
You make it look like child's play, thank you for sharing your knowledge, sir.
You're very welcome!
Excelent video,master,thanks,🙏🙏👍👌
So nice of you
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
My pleasure
That's a nice plane. I couldn't find one easily so I made one, a top escapement version.
Good for you!
You always make it look so easy . Cheers to all your generous tips . Blessings
You're welcome!
Could you demonstrate how you would use a combination plane to perform the various tasks you have been demonstrating with moulding planes. It would be1. unique, 2. very useful, and 3. assist in preserving them.
On the schedule for some time in the future. Stay tuned.
Excellent channel. I enjoy this and learn a bit every video.👍
Glad to hear it!
I always enjoy your videos bc you impart so much knowledge!
Thanks so much!
Amazing, I know what this weekend has for me.
Have fun!
thanks
You're welcome!
Funny to see the electrical routers on the floor:)
From a previous life when I had a much larger shop.....!
Thank You Graham......TM
You're welcome!
Wonderful!
Many thanks!
thanks for the video
You're welcome
I just read that PVA was discovered in 1912, but when did it come on the market in glue form. Elmer's Glue was a casein glue for a long time if I understand things correctly!?
Not really a glue expert, which is one reason why I like Gothic furniture that relied on tight joints - such as draw-bored motise-and-tenons.
Thanks for your sharing! How many milimeters do you let empty in those grooves for the wood movement?
Depends on the wood species and the location, but often at least 1/2 centimeter
I enjoyed that. Could you give a guide as to how you measure the panel so that it is the right size? How much play would you recommend leaving for expansion?
The grooves should be deep enough to allow for any possible expansion of the panel withouth pushing the frame apart, and at the same time deep enough that no matter how much the panel shrinks it still stays in the frame - both of which facts depend on the possible expansion and contraction of the panel which is a function of the species of wood and the environment. Try and check out both facts by learning as much as possible about the particular species (use the online Depr of Agriculture 'Wood Handbook' and the weaather conditions for the intended location of the piece. (I have got this wrong a number of times!!)
@@gjbmunc Thank you Graham. Damn and I thought there might be a short cut. 😁 I presume you mean this document: www.fpl.fs.usda.gov/documnts/fplgtr/fpl_gtr190.pdf. Looks like I've got some reading to do. Thanks again for a great video and the follow up advice.
I love this look and raised panels but getting a hold of a plane like this is not easy nor cheap. So I would love to see if this look can be achieved with a regular smoothing plane ?
Might be easier with a block plane, especially a rebated block plane.
Thanks for the video and information. How do you determine the size of the panel (width and length), that is, how much you leave for the movement of the wood. Is there a magic formula depending on the size of the panel?
The grooves should be deep enough to allow for any possible expansion of the panel withouth pushing the frame apart, and at the same time deep enough that no matter how much the panel shrinks it still stays in the frame - both of which facts depend on the possible expansion and contraction of the panel which is a function of the species of wood and the environment. Try and check out both facts by learning as much as possible about the particular species (use the online Depr of Agriculture 'Wood Handbook' and the weaather conditions for the intended location of the piece. (I have got this wrong a number of times!!
@@gjbmunc Thank you very much for the reply, kind as always.
Hi Graham can you do that with a number 5 metal plane? I don't have a fielding plane and no funds to get one at this time?
Yes, but it's harder to 'field'a raised panel.
How can i do it without a fielding plane?
Take a look at Paul Sellers doing this with a Stanley No. 4 plane here: th-cam.com/video/MAezwdKjN2Y/w-d-xo.html
@@2tall54That"s what i"ve Bern looking for. Thank you.
You can always use a rabbet plane as shown to make the tongue to fit in the panel's groove, and then use the same rabbet plane (or a wider one) with a fence attacched to the panel to plane the sloping part - even producing a 'raised' center field if you like.
@@gjbmunc Thank you. I will try that.
It's not a rabbet, it's a rebate!
You're quite right, but as George Bernard Shaw (and sometimes Winston Churchill) once said "America and Britain are two countries separated by a common language".
Being originally English I prefer to keep 'rebate' for a monetary dispensation, and use 'rabbet' (which actually comes from the French 'rabattre' meaning to beat back and which seems to make a little more sense in the woodworking technique) for woodworking; but I confess I frequently get them mixed up having been here (in America) for so long. Hope you understand.