You should really geound that to the chassis and NOT the battery. Your creating a ground loop circuit and if you have ANY electrical problems with that setup, it will affect the electrical in the car itself. Also you may want to upgrade your alternator to handle the charging load of that massive battery.😎
Think you will find that under high loads the inverter will sometimes shut down from over heating. They require a lot of breathing room and good ventilation to allow them to cool off the internal electronics. Def need a charge controller and auto isolation so you dont drain your truck batteries or damage them when running for extended periods.
I set up my 6.5L diesel to do the same thing. I used a 230 amp powermaster alternator that charges at 14.5 volts and I used a dual battery relay that is voltage sensing. It automatically connects and charges the rear batteries.
I like the way you installed everything in the tool box. My only concern is the amount of heat the inverter will generate. Not a much space to radiate heat.
Nice work, but soldering the connectors is dangerous. If the cables heat up, or vibrates loose, the solder can melt and cause a fire. They should be crimped, ideally with a hydraulic crimping tool.
Also, I love the way you fabricated the sheet metal to make a totally professional installation. Nice work. But you definitely need to place an isolated DC-DC converter or charge controller between the truck battery and the inverter battery. The LiFePO4 batteries can pull an enormous amount of current which can destroy your alternator, and it can also deplete your truck battery. In addition, the 13.6 volts that the alternator produces isn’t enough to charge the LiFePO4 battery, with needs around 14.6 volts to charge. This is another problem solved by a DC-DC converter or charge controller, which can take varying input voltage and provide the exact needed voltage for charging. Get a Victron or Renogy isolated DC-DC converter and you’ll be set.
Nice work, this is a dream of mine too!! 👍🏼
Awesome work!
You should really geound that to the chassis and NOT the battery. Your creating a ground loop circuit and if you have ANY electrical problems with that setup, it will affect the electrical in the car itself. Also you may want to upgrade your alternator to handle the charging load of that massive battery.😎
Very Cool idea. man I want to do a build like this for my truck. I have to drag a generator around for my work this setup looks way nicer.
It’s amazingly useful. Loving it so far.
You need a dcd2dc charge controller for LiFepo4 Batt.
Think you will find that under high loads the inverter will sometimes shut down from over heating. They require a lot of breathing room and good ventilation to allow them to cool off the internal electronics. Def need a charge controller and auto isolation so you dont drain your truck batteries or damage them when running for extended periods.
I set up my 6.5L diesel to do the same thing. I used a 230 amp powermaster alternator that charges at 14.5 volts and I used a dual battery relay that is voltage sensing. It automatically connects and charges the rear batteries.
I like the way you installed everything in the tool box. My only concern is the amount of heat the inverter will generate. Not a much space to radiate heat.
Yeah I’m gonna add heat management next!!
I really hope you went back and used rubber grommets anywhere wire is going through sheetmetal.
I love it. Great job! For the high idle switch you could just go with a tuner which would be super easy to do for like 400 bucks
And I can add more power 😎
Nice work, but soldering the connectors is dangerous. If the cables heat up, or vibrates loose, the solder can melt and cause a fire. They should be crimped, ideally with a hydraulic crimping tool.
Also, I love the way you fabricated the sheet metal to make a totally professional installation. Nice work.
But you definitely need to place an isolated DC-DC converter or charge controller between the truck battery and the inverter battery. The LiFePO4 batteries can pull an enormous amount of current which can destroy your alternator, and it can also deplete your truck battery.
In addition, the 13.6 volts that the alternator produces isn’t enough to charge the LiFePO4 battery, with needs around 14.6 volts to charge. This is another problem solved by a DC-DC converter or charge controller, which can take varying input voltage and provide the exact needed voltage for charging.
Get a Victron or Renogy isolated DC-DC converter and you’ll be set.