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Panel feeders are not correct. Neutral and hot reversed.... black gounds....

Where did you find that lock nut?

Where did you find that lock nut?

I’m an inspector as well as a master electrician. I spotted a few things… waiting to see if it was pointed out. BTW, max height on a main breaker (or any breaker) is 6’7”. Also, the receptacle outlet next to the sub-panel will be too close, so move it at least 6” from the edge of the panel so there is no interference. Good job trying it yourself, but consider an electrical contractor next time.

Back cut way too high

But guy got it right

This is Ga boy Covin ...Yes u can run this on 94.5 dual port up to 2003 psd

Smell ever go away? Same tractor, same problem.

Are you saying ford skin or foreskin

Don’t let OSHA watch this 😅

Battery prices kill it off for me i went makita

How long would it take to fully charge a dead battery?

It’s always a good idea to check with your inspector before starting. Since codes and regulations vary from place to place, it’s best to ask ahead. They are generally helpful and are glad to discuss plans with you before starting. I’m not licensed but I do handyman work and have dealt with a number of inspectors. They are primarily interested in homeowner safety, mostly coming from construction or fire protection backgrounds.

Great e saw since i have the ego my husky 555 is sleeping. Here my impressions from the black forest in Germany th-cam.com/video/XRnlEcnqIq8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=XgYvX_ecjTuu4-0c

And know you know why electricians are licensed.

So you're not a qualified person as per NEC article 100(definitions)

I use a 16" model and I need a break before the battery does.

Holy osha, who in there right mind thinks its a good idea to hual that big of shit with a jeep?

Der recht hohe Akkupreis wird ja auch durch ausbleibende Spritkosten kompensiert, erst recht wenn der Strom aus einer vorhandenen Solarquelle kommt.

OMG. What a stupid back cut location. Like 8” to high. What were you thinking??

In my humble opinion. Tamper proof outlets is breaking balls. The are a bummer to use too

Thank you

The black wire with the white strip should go to the Neutral Bar and the black wire should go to L1. Also if a white wire goes to a breaker it HAS to have a color tape on it! and black wires going to a Neutral HAS to have a white tape on it. Also the main panel feed wires does not look big enough to handle that amp load of all the breakers

Just replaced my main panel to a 400a service. That was quite a fiasco, but I was informed that a surge protector is now required on new installs. So..about 150.00 later, I now have a surge protector covering my whole house. When I wire in the other 200 available, I'll have to get another for the shop panel

Remind me not to pull any permits. These are stupid

I don't understand the light for the confined storage area. I have some small closets that don't have lights, so is there some additional minimum size requirement?

So many codes so few dollars. Sad thing is many codes are redundant or overkill.

I'm trying to start a new shop project... soon. One of my biggest fears is that I'm 45 yeas out of date, and codes as well as construction practices change. PEX is all "new" for me. We had GFCIs, but not Arc Faults. Then, of course, there are local codes. St. Louis had something that they only allowed one wire per hole in a stud or joist. Can anybody say SWISS CHEESE? I've had many problems with GFCI outlets, and would never use one unless absolutely necessary (near a sink). Those child proof plugs would be a pain in a workshop, although perhaps they would help with dust and corrosion.

Dude, you also switched the neutral with one of the hots going into the main panel breaker. How did the inspector miss that???

anybody can screw up but not anybody can fix a screw up GOODJOB

Exactly. Codes are there to help and be safe. It sucks when the city wants to be a pain over silly things though. Diyer should have inapection to ensure their own and families safety. Contractors get inspected so that the homeowner can have piece of mind.

Want 10% off your own DCPOWERINC alternator? Use Coupon Code diesejl !!!

You don’t seem to know how to cut down trees properly

Yes,yes you can fix it, (spoiler alert).!!!

Where's the safety glasses?

I don't like the new auto adjustment on the EGO makes the chain too tight IMO.

the suspense was killing me, hope they are better at diesel garage than cutting down trees, way to high on his back cut. Somebody is going to get hurt someday

A lot cheaper than a new F150 Lightning with onboard power, lol.

I like the way you installed everything in the tool box. My only concern is the amount of heat the inverter will generate. Not a much space to radiate heat.

Do you have a link to the inverter ?

The question is why did you even get a permit??? Are you free or not? Lesson learned I hope.

Should high idle it instead of letting it sit and idle all the time.

Hi, Nice setup. Have you given any thought to adding a high idle kit to your truck? Alternators really perform better at higher engine speeds. It's also not really good to let your truck idle for hours on end. They really need to run at a higher rpm, to keep the engine cool and get good sealing on the piston rings. RainManRay's Repairs just did a video on adding a high idle kit to a Silverado 2500, with the 6.6 Duramax diesel engine. th-cam.com/video/7f9Wn5w735U/w-d-xo.html

So cool man seriously I like the way u think

Such an awesome setup!

I would recommend you re-wire those feeds. YOu have the neutral wire where a phase should be and a phase is where the neutral should be. Yes, it is a code violation too. Whether your inspector know that or not. White wires MUST be neutral wires only, not phase conductors.

Also, I love the way you fabricated the sheet metal to make a totally professional installation. Nice work. But you definitely need to place an isolated DC-DC converter or charge controller between the truck battery and the inverter battery. The LiFePO4 batteries can pull an enormous amount of current which can destroy your alternator, and it can also deplete your truck battery. In addition, the 13.6 volts that the alternator produces isn’t enough to charge the LiFePO4 battery, with needs around 14.6 volts to charge. This is another problem solved by a DC-DC converter or charge controller, which can take varying input voltage and provide the exact needed voltage for charging. Get a Victron or Renogy isolated DC-DC converter and you’ll be set.

Nice work, but soldering the connectors is dangerous. If the cables heat up, or vibrates loose, the solder can melt and cause a fire. They should be crimped, ideally with a hydraulic crimping tool.

Think you will find that under high loads the inverter will sometimes shut down from over heating. They require a lot of breathing room and good ventilation to allow them to cool off the internal electronics. Def need a charge controller and auto isolation so you dont drain your truck batteries or damage them when running for extended periods.

You need a dcd2dc charge controller for LiFepo4 Batt.