@@DownunderFarmandForge seems obvious in hindsight but isn't everything. Come to think of I've seen a few old folders where I could see the pins once they had tarnished. I was gearing up to tin and solder them on haha...
@@razorbackss trick is get pins and bar at the same place and ensure they are the same alloy should tarnish up the same, if I can find some nickel silver that is my next adventure on the bolster, followed by a tapered back side on them
@@DownunderFarmandForge nice one. Was trying to track down some nickel silver flat bar lastnight, doesn't seem to be a whole lot around. Thanks for your help, working on them as we speak 👍
G'day Darren, very nice. That was very interesting. Thank you for sharing! Hugs and love to you and your family. ❤️✝🤗 Have a beautiful and blessed week. God Bless ❤️✝🤗
Lol mate when doing bolsters you are looking to fill the drill holes not the rounding of the head you do for a peened handle pin. Hit the bugger hard so the metal is moving out through the entire length of the pin
No Mate, generally they have the smallest amount of wiggle room I can get them into. Even if the hole is only a thousandth bigger than the pin they will expand as you drive them to fill that small gap and lock them in place. The bigger the hole, the harder it is to get everything to line up right, even as tight as I make it I leave the bolsters oversize until the handle is on and I grind it all back together. Same thing with counter sinking the bigger the hole the more metal you need to fill it and chances are you will grind it partly off and leave marks when shaping the handle so I just use a straight hole. I have had to remove one set of bolsters and the only way was to chisel the bolster off and then redrill the holes through the pins, not an experience I wish to repeat, back I know how well the will hold.😉
Nope very rare that I cut serrations into a blade, to me a good sharp knife beats serrated 90% of the time. These are still to be sharpened as it is the last job I do and that is after it has a sheath to go in
@@MrPtrvazq not a fan of them either that’s for sure, same a gut hooks. The bandsaw I run a bi-metal blade, not sue the tooth count off the top of my head, cutting non ferrous metal is always a pain in the but, behaves “sticky” once it starts getting hot, same thing happens when grinding. Cool is key but for cutting I just power through, grinding quench often as you will burn your fingers quick. Copper is much worse than Brass for this, due to the higher copper content, but even aluminium will do it.
My Bandsaw is a horizontal to vertical type with the drive being held by gravity instead of a spring for gear changes. Not a perfect model for sure but it also only cost $120 brand new. If I went professional I would get something more suited, but this one will scream and do the job until them.
There is not enough heat in that little torch to affect the face of the anvil. That anvil is about 40kg it will soak down that flame with absolutely no problems due to its thermal mass, when I forge it brings a greater heat and for a longer duration than the amount of heat required to get those 3mm pins hot, copper and brass get to critical temperature well below the forging temperature of steel. I normally do the heating on my bench vise, but for the ease on filming used the anvil.
Legend! Cheers mate. Keen as a bean on having a crack at a loveless but the bolsters been the hold up.
Awesome glad I could help out, they are fairly simple, just need that pre planning to get holes right etc.
@@DownunderFarmandForge seems obvious in hindsight but isn't everything. Come to think of I've seen a few old folders where I could see the pins once they had tarnished. I was gearing up to tin and solder them on haha...
@@razorbackss trick is get pins and bar at the same place and ensure they are the same alloy should tarnish up the same, if I can find some nickel silver that is my next adventure on the bolster, followed by a tapered back side on them
@@DownunderFarmandForge nice one. Was trying to track down some nickel silver flat bar lastnight, doesn't seem to be a whole lot around. Thanks for your help, working on them as we speak 👍
@@razorbackss yep hard to find I need to speak to some friends I know that use it
Another excellent demonstration video Darren. Love watching these knives come together. - Rick
Cheers mate, teaching is my aim so it is about giving the information so people can do it at home
G'day Darren, very nice. That was very interesting. Thank you for sharing! Hugs and love to you and your family. ❤️✝🤗 Have a beautiful and blessed week. God Bless ❤️✝🤗
Thank you Cynthia, you are certainly one of my best viewers
looking really good mate
Cheers mate, every knife no matter the cost gets a little heart and soul
So demonstrative as always, brother. Love these videos
Glad you like them brother, continuing in trying to teach how to do it is a goal
Beautiful! I love the bevel on the bolsters too. Gives it such a nice finished look.
Much prefer the bevel to a straight side, makes the transition too abrupt for me.
Love this video, how you shape the brass, its so beautiful
Lol brass is the easy one, the copper is not fun to work with but again pretty
great tutorial appreciate it im going to attempt my 1st one on a chef knife and pairing knife set Mark😃👍👍
Awesome mate glad it could help, let me know if you have any questions
Awesome . I pound on the pins forever I think I need to use a bigger hammer.
Lol mate when doing bolsters you are looking to fill the drill holes not the rounding of the head you do for a peened handle pin. Hit the bugger hard so the metal is moving out through the entire length of the pin
Should there be a little wiggle room for the pins so they have room to expand? I noticed yours slide in easy. Do you need to countersink the holes?
No Mate, generally they have the smallest amount of wiggle room I can get them into. Even if the hole is only a thousandth bigger than the pin they will expand as you drive them to fill that small gap and lock them in place. The bigger the hole, the harder it is to get everything to line up right, even as tight as I make it I leave the bolsters oversize until the handle is on and I grind it all back together. Same thing with counter sinking the bigger the hole the more metal you need to fill it and chances are you will grind it partly off and leave marks when shaping the handle so I just use a straight hole. I have had to remove one set of bolsters and the only way was to chisel the bolster off and then redrill the holes through the pins, not an experience I wish to repeat, back I know how well the will hold.😉
@@DownunderFarmandForge thanks for taking the time to answer my question! I appreciate it. Love your work.
Always happy to help someone wanting to learn, I have taught a few people in person at no charge as by teaching we learn even more.
@@DownunderFarmandForge teaching is my profession, so I completely agree with and respect that.
Would love to get a knife made from you dude
By alls means send me a message and we can chat about it
👍😎🤗
😃🥰
Does that blade actually have teeth on it?
Nope very rare that I cut serrations into a blade, to me a good sharp knife beats serrated 90% of the time. These are still to be sharpened as it is the last job I do and that is after it has a sheath to go in
@@DownunderFarmandForge no I meant the bandsaw!
@@DownunderFarmandForge I HATE serrations. I'll grind them if someone wants, but never for personal knives.
@@MrPtrvazq not a fan of them either that’s for sure, same a gut hooks.
The bandsaw I run a bi-metal blade, not sue the tooth count off the top of my head, cutting non ferrous metal is always a pain in the but, behaves “sticky” once it starts getting hot, same thing happens when grinding. Cool is key but for cutting I just power through, grinding quench often as you will burn your fingers quick. Copper is much worse than Brass for this, due to the higher copper content, but even aluminium will do it.
@@DownunderFarmandForge I have a love-hate relationship with copper.
I think your bandsaw is slightly unbalanced.
My Bandsaw is a horizontal to vertical type with the drive being held by gravity instead of a spring for gear changes. Not a perfect model for sure but it also only cost $120 brand new. If I went professional I would get something more suited, but this one will scream and do the job until them.
mate you'll bugger your face hardening on anvil heating it up like
There is not enough heat in that little torch to affect the face of the anvil. That anvil is about 40kg it will soak down that flame with absolutely no problems due to its thermal mass, when I forge it brings a greater heat and for a longer duration than the amount of heat required to get those 3mm pins hot, copper and brass get to critical temperature well below the forging temperature of steel. I normally do the heating on my bench vise, but for the ease on filming used the anvil.