You can drive it without a tune its not restrictive like the original downpipe thats restrictive with two cats . Its getting all the gasses out , but I heard a tune is advised to get the most out of it. Plus to stop the check engine light if it happens . I think more so you need a tune for the catless.
if you change any air flow whether it is intake or exhaust (excluding putting a cat back/axle back exhaust) you most definitely should tune for it. If you don't you are playing with fire and if that fire happens to be your daily you're gonna have a bad time.
@@ridetoliveofficial693 yeah I think you do need a tune lol. I was on the fence about it in my previous comments. But yes a tune is very necessary for this upgrade. If you stay off of boost you can drive it for awhile but who the fuck stays off of any boost nowadays.
when you mod the STI, this always happen: 1. Just do an axel back, I just want more boxer rumber. 2 lets do a catback, axel back is not that aggressive 3 Boxer rumble is not enough, I need some noise from engine bay!!let a cold air intake and a BOV, and TUNE It!(so I buy access port, BOV and intake, spend money on protune simultaneously) 4 The sound is still not AGGRESSIVE, I need more sound from the exaust, lets do a catless downpipe!!!! 5 I need to upgrade the fuel system to keep up the power 6 I need to upgrade the turbo to make the car not run that hard 7 I need to upgrade TMIC to a FMIC 8 OH, my STI already got 400 whp, I think it is time to change the internal to make it run safely, lets do a forged piston!!! ....... 10 EJ257 KABOOOOM....
Dont blow if you can drive and have a good tune. Im “stage 1.5” on my 18 STI. The injectors are low CC on these cars, but its the fuel pump more than it is the injectors. You can make 320-330 all day on stock injectors with upgraded FP. I have a cobb DP to cat back exhaust. No intake, I make 312 whp, 363 tq (high map) and 307/350 (on low map) and highest IDC that I hit on track is 90-91%. I drive it daily and to and from the track. Max 86% on road if i do a hard pull. Im on Long Island as well. My car runs incredibly
I'm done with step 2, flirting with step 3,...... naahhh the extra 80hp isn't worth 4 to 6 thousand dollars.... Better to just tuck that money away for the next car - 2023 STI ????
@@Devon_Meadows I have a 21 wrx and it’s stage 1 + Cobb I put catback exhaust on and it’s running rich now because the exhaust my buddy says I should do t delete and go stage 2 to stop it from running rich do you think it will be safe to run stage 2? Or what should I do??
It'll only lean out if you run an Intake AND a downpipe together. You can run a Downpipe without an intake and you won't lean out plus you'll get way more power than with an intake
@drliu in 99% of cases people don't understand how bad it is for an engine to have injectors go over 80% duty. Any modification has the potential to exceed stock injectors easily on a Subaru. If you're going to spend $$$ on upgrades....spend a little more $$$ on oversized injectors so your tune can be safe and have the ability for the ECU to adapt if extra fuel is required and beleive me, while tuning them I've seen people try to run cars that try to request +115% injector duty and that is impossible when they thought they had that kind of head room. ALl it takes is season changes and other scenarios. Spend the extra to get the correct supporting mods and be safe!!! Think about it....injectors are cheaper than buying a brand new short block....
By the time you hit stage 3, the turbo will be next thing that gets maxed out. Upgrade to an 18-20G size turbo to make the same power with less effort than an overworked, tiny, stock turbo. Go too big in turbo size and too high in power, you'll lose response while eventually maxing out your engine's structural integrity. Also, the stock TMIC, radiator, and oil cooler were designed for stock horsepower. They need to be upgraded as you increase horsepower since more heat is generated to make the car accelerate faster. If you go FMIC, add rear facing hood vents or replace the hood for a rear vented option to dissipate the heat in the engine bay. Hood scoops with no intercoller behind it will create positive pressures in the engine compartment and will render your front heat exchangers useless, even if you have the fattest radiator installed. You're right though. The issues are mainly the owners themselves. Great video!
In the end, the only way to make 400+ wheel hp in a 2015+ wrx/ sti with no worries is to spend the $4k for a built motor with forged internals. People dont realize that stock engines are generally garbage, but they want to race those shitty mustang anyway
@@bradgreen987 The motor will last as long as how you treat it. 400whp-600whp forged builds also break. If the problem is the owner, he will never get away from it, regardless of what car he jumps into next.
I was considering going stage 2 from a stock 2016 STI. I think you make a great point. Might as well do it all right and keep it safe. I think I'll go stage 1+ for now, no need to rush into blowing it up too fast. Thanks!
Excellent info ! Another way to protect the motor is use a really top tier fuel 93 octane but tune the car for 91 octane. The extra octane level helps with knock. If you tuned for 93 and you get questionable fuel or it’s from the bottom of the stations tank it may not actually be 91 half by the time it’s pumped. Loving this channel.
I completely agree. This car gets bad rep due to incomplete work and not doing it properly. Tuning is a must if you do a downpipes and anything else with the engine. If you take care of your car, pay attention on how it is driving and not push it beyond its limits in accordance with your mods, it will last you longer and give you smiles for a long time. I think majority time people rush and drive it unsafely, or too aggressively without proper mods running and that is why we hear stories of them breaking down. I have run a cvt 2019 with 274 whP and it was great. I didn't push it beyond its limits , listened to my tuner and what professional advise they had to offer. It lasted me a great run.
I purchased a used 2019 STI which has a catted Invidia downpipe and COBB SF intake. I am starting to understand why I am getting P0420 codes now. Can I get an OEM downpipe and downgrade to Stage 1? If so, does it have to be an OEM downpipe or is there an aftermarket equivalent? The other option is to move to Stage 3, I guess. I prefer reliability over power seeking. What do you suggest?
Realistically what's the WHP achievable with the stage 2+ ? 300 -320 whp, that's not worth dumping a whole bunch of money imo. Just, enjoy it as is folks. It will last longer too.
It's risky. My 2016 sti got ringland failure stock. The car had about 59k miles when it happened. Im the type of person who took care of their car, monitored everything, never modified the car for performances. I would suggest that if you do decide to mod your car that you start saving up for a rebuild engine. You may or may not be lucky with longevity of your car.
If you take your car to a tuner, put it on a dyno, all issues can be tuned out. People that run e tunes blow their cars up. I've got a heavily modified 2016 wrx and it screams, daily driver at 320 wheel hp. Just don't exceed 350 torque! That's the key
I wanted to make some performance tuning but i was told if you make changes you need to get access port and a tune but things need to get changed back for smog so i stopped at Cobb cat back exhaust.
Stage 2 here (2015), catted dp, full catback exhaust, tgv delete, k&n drop-in filter, Ecutek 91 tuned (20psi on S#) and running perfectly since over two years. Motul oil change and air filter clean every 6,000km. Still OEM injectors, not even maxxed out. 🤷🏼♂️
@@CookinBeatloaf because tuner i trust propose ecutek or cobb ap and i prefered ecutek. Where i live there is not much 94 or i have to go a lot out of my way to get some, so 91 is more
correct me if i am wrong on cobb stage 2 tune with downpipe you take the SF intake off and put factory intake back on with downpipe.Ihave the cobb stage 1 SF with 93 octane tune. Id like get a tune for cobb intake and downpipe.....if that is possible.????
Cobb does not offer a stage 2+ ots for the 15+. If you look on the accessport it goes from stage 1+ to stage 3. You’ll have to do an etune or pro/dyno tune if you want to stay stage 2+.
If you look at dyno comparisons the WRX actually gets bigger gains than the sti until you go full bolt on plus fuel upgrades (stage 3+) so that's what I jumped to. It was a lot of fun but I'm currently on week 7 without a car waiting for my 600hp build to be done. The most painful time if my life I gotta say. Pay big ass money to wait....
@@Autofreakgarage I got good feedback from MAPerformance today. They ran their test FA20 with their 2+ upgrades for several years and did not have any problems.
I have a 2015 Subaru WRX STI launch edition with Cobb intake and downpipe and catless exhaust with a stage 1+ otm tune with Cobb port but check engine light on saying that I'm burning lean bank 1 so do I need to get stage 2 and upgrade my fuel system? To fix my check engine light?
Thank you for your videos!! I'm upgrading my 2016 STI, and going all in. I've done this to my R53 Mini, and now my next project is the STI. I'm glad to hear that what I'm doing, and what you recommend is in alignment. I'm doing a 2+, stage 3, by what you are saying in the video. I'm doing the flex fuel and swapping everything out and upgrading the injectors etc. I'm looking to stay at around 400 HP suspension is soon after, but the coilovers are going to be custom so I have to wait for them to come in.
So would a easy “cheaper” add on to the stage one+ be to go to a larger not crazy injector size that won’t max your fuel pump? That way you won’t be maxing your stock injectors and still keep that reliability.
i have catback and intake and ive never seen above 76% IDC. Just ordered a catless downpipe. Ive read its downpipe or intake, not both. Then read guys saying their duty cycles have been fine with both. Then read some guys duty cycles are fine until winter. I tune myself so i guess ill find out.
Hey, just wanted to update you, i have had my 3" downpipe along with an aem uego installed for the last few weeks, payed, took the test and received access tuner race. I will update you again when my wife gets home and can drive the car for me on the highway while i have the laptop in passenger seat. As an update about IDC's with the downpipe, the max ive seen so far is 82% at WOT at 19.5psi and tapering to 14-15 after 5k on a 58 degree afternoon. Also as an update, much of what ive read about these cars and tunes has be BS. But what would you do if you were recieving 3-600$ for an etune for simple mods that takes 15 minutes of your time. Such as the brentuning pop tune, that takes 3 minutes to make. I also know im just another username on the internet, so .02 cents, grains of salt, ect... Ive been tuning dsm's ,3000gt's, srt4's and evo's sine 2006 as an fyi. All cars ive owned and trusted no one with
none of this is to deny needing a tune. But just to see if you can do 2+ on stock fuel. I will let you know if i am right or wrong. After letting the car warm up, then resetting the ecu to reset fuel trims, idling for 10 minutes after that with coolant temp at 187deg , showed -0.78 on af correction 1 and -3 on af learning 1. But i have no more info passed idle yet *edit2* I love your wheels and if you know how to read logs, i can send them to you to see.
So just a Cobb catted downpipe and the stage 2 tune should be good right? Even on a stock exhaust with a muffler deletes. I want a little more power for my DD but don’t really want it too loud so I wanted to keep stock exhaust and resonator with muffler delete to still be able to hear the rumble but not annoyingly loud.
So im coming from a mk7 Gti platform, ive always liked subies when i was younger but ive always heard stories that they have bad rep with blowing up. I was thinking about buying a 2015 sti and buying a stage 3 iag closed deck once i purchase the car. Could i run a stock iag stage 3 block and run stock turbo until i buy downpipe, exhaust, fueling, injectors, turbo? Or will the car be un happy?
If you are going to build the motor, I would do it the right way and do all the supporting mods with it. Maybe build one on the side if you are nervous about it.
i’m about to buy a 2017 sti and i’m really curious on your rims. the cleanest ones i’ve seen on any on the yt videos for sure. While ur reading, can u also put me on to some good meaty sticky tires for me?
So if I get a down pipe, catback, and a cold air I have to get a tune and better injectors? Do you have a link as to where to get all the stuff? For injectors and the pump? Also do you recommend an AOS and doing TCG and EGR delete?
You need a tune if you even just do a downpipe. Or just an intake. And definitely if you do both. There are many places to go for all of this stuff. All depends on budget snd how deep you want to dive. Yes I recommend doing all the supporting mods at once to make it safe and reliable.
@@Autofreakgarage okay thank you and I’m your video you said COBB makes a kit for all the fueling issues that you would have? Because I can do the full exhaust, intake, and I’ve been told to also do the cylinder 4 cooling mod but I did not know about the fueling problem so thank you very much!
Yes cobb has full packages to do it all safely. They are very reputable parts and can get you set up. Yes, the fueling on these cars are the weakest points. Once upgraded, you can start adding power safely.
@@Autofreakgarage awesome thank you so much man! Glad I didn’t get the parts and have the fueling issue right off the bat. Very much appreciated, I will look into it!
@@TommysPlaypin traded in the car for something that was more reliable unfortunately. But I beat on the car a ton and it never missed a beat. The only problem I had was the check engine light came on due to the catted down pipe. My tuner turned the light off.
Super awesome insight and mindset.. i just got a 2017 STI 12k.. just bought a downpipe and adaptor. off of Rally sport direct 10mins ago. I'm wanting to go FP Green. Your video made me step back and THINK.. Its time to start collecting alot of parts and works lots of Overtime. Nice Car BTW
Without an intake, you should be ok. But that depends on the aggression of your tune. The fueling system is this car is a weak link and recommend upgrading it if higher than stage 1+
Would you trust maperformance stage 2 kit that includes their own intake , downpipe and custom tune they will email? They said the tune will make it so you wont need to upgrade the fuel system and they have a video on youtube as well.
A TH-camr named Smeedia (he has a STi and BRZ) also has in issue with MAPerformance. He likes their kits but some small parts were NOT included when they arrived.
If I’m correct I do not need a tune for a catback and a cold air intake right? I’m also getting a cobb accesport, and a friend is selling his stage 2 clutch master with fly wheel, do you recommend me to buy it having the mods mentioned above?
For a Catback, no tune needed. If you add an intake, yes you will need a tune. I wouldn’t recommend upgrading the clutch on stock power. No need for it.
@@Autofreakgarage got it, and that can be done with the cobb accesport or do I have to take it for a shop tune? Also thanks for the fast reply, new sub!
You could, but the intake is part of the fun. It adds a great visual experience. Plus, I had the nice cobb carbon redline intake that truest decreases the overall IAT’s by a lot.
I just went with bigger fuel pump extremely easy to change and injectors. Stock turbo and minor bolt ons and im sitting at 315 whp and 350 torque. Super fun sounds great
Wrxs are a bit different as they can handle more power without having to upgrade the fueling right away. I would confirm this route with someone more knowledgeable on the fa motor though.
Yes, I wouldn’t bother going catless unless I was on a built motor going for power. The high flow gesi cats thaw days give almost identical results as a catless downpipe these days.
If you run Cob OTS map, you need to have the same catted and O2 sensor design as the COBB downpipe. People start running catless and have issues without knowing the difference. I’m on Brenntuning Stage 2 catted Invidia dp and N1 exhaust for 2 years, no issues no dips in DAM. My buddy’s WRX stage 1 COBB OTS has issues with his DAM. Also know another STi owner but he didn’t know that running a BOV was an issue, even after he blew up a motor. Your title should really say “DON’T go Stage 2 without knowing what you’re doing.”
I explain in the video what needs to be done in order to do it safely. Title got you to watch no? you aren’t running an intake. I am specially talking about stage 2+ as people don’t realize they can’t run a downpipe with an intake and not have issues. Unless you do proper fueling mods or have a very reputable tuner who knows what they are doing, the car will run into issues down the line.
Ok Im confused 🙄🙄 Can I or CANT I install a down pipe with a cold air intake (basically STAGE 2) NOT STAGE 2+. And after a good ETune be totally safe???? Because I do want to go STAGE 2. NOT STAGE 2+!!! I currently have a MAP Intake, Accessport (Stage 1+ basically) Just by adding the Downpipe will put me at Stage 2, right?? And will it be SAFE after a good Etune??? 🤔
Stage 2+ is a tune, Downpipe and intake. I’d recommend upgrading the fuel system if you go this route. So if you already have an intake and you add a downpipe, you’ll be at stage 2+ and need to start upgrading other areas to run it safely.
@@Autofreakgarage damn man you are awesome thanks for answering! So… Going JUST STAGE 2, would be just a tune an a Down-pipe BUT with a STOCK intake???
Is it safe to just do a good intake and full system exhaust ,then run a tune to adjust accordingly and just keep everything "stock"? I'm about to try to get one of these ,and all I truly want is a full system borla and a cold air intake and let the car live its life that way. Think thats a safe move?
No, I would not recommend running an intake and a full turboback alone. A proper tune and all the supporting fueling mods are a must if you want it to run smoothly, safely, and properly.
@@Autofreakgarage I think you misread, I 100% know i need a tune along with the intake & exhaust what i mean is i dont wanna start modifying fuel system, cooling/oil flow systems i really just wanna get a nice intake, borla exhaust and a tune to bring it up to speed and then just keep the car at that point. Sorry hopefully I don't come off as rude i've just been following your channel for a while and you seem very knowledgeable. Alot of the company's i talk to seem like they are trying to rush me into spending as much money on parts and get to stage 3 asap and I just know how these cars are. I wanna get mine unlocked how it should be but i dont wanna push limits, i've seen these cars never see 50k miles and i've also seen some with over 300k
I did not misread it. I was explaining that if you want to do a downpipe and an intake on the VA (15+) STI, it is 100% recommended to upgraded all the fueling components. At stage 1+ (tune and intake), your stock injectors are maxed out. Going with a downpipe will open up more power (and will need more fuel) and since the injectors won't be able to keep up, it'll cause your motor to lean out and cause premature wear and it will have a high probability of grenading itself. Companies are not trying to make you spend money. They are giving you advise on how to properly modify your 2015+ EJ25 motor and have it run smoothly, safely, and properly. The wrx and sti's that you see have 300K miles are the ones that modified correctly and maintain their cars religiously. Which are two things I ALWAYS preach.
@@Autofreakgarage dang, thanks for the quick reply. Another question, does a catback require a tune? Also, would an air oil separator beneficial? Basically let me put it like this, you got 5gs to make the car as fast yet reliable as possible. What do you do? Thanks for your help, new to subies and your channel is sick.
In regards to tuning, if hypothetically, I installed a new part like a cool air intake and do an etune, how long would you be comfortable driving your car before getting fully tuned if it takes a week or so? Would you run OTC before hand and then transition to the etune to make sure the part is tuned in ASAP? Just curious on the timeline of how much you'd drive when a new part is just put in without a tune. Thanks for your work!
The whole e tuning process from bren took a few days. They work off the of the Cobb ots maps. Just don’t rag on the car unless your tuner needs the logs and explains what they need.
I’ve done coils, sways, endlinks, lca’s, and strut bar. Have one more piece coming, but that’s about it. It’s a daily so I don’t want to go overboard and make it unbearable to drive.
@Scoobyfreak86 So I have a 2021 STI and I put an ETS extreme catback on it and nothing else so far. I was planning to do an intake and a downpipe with possible injectors. I’m pretty new to the Subaru world, but from what I’ve researched so far that sounded like a pretty safe bet so long as I get good parts and make sure I have a tuner with experience and a good rep. Will I still get plenty of a power upgrade if I did that without the downpipe? Why is the downpipe such a big deal? How much of a difference does it really make overall? Thanks!! I definitely don’t think I want to spend all the money to go flex fuel as it sounds too trouble some overall.
If you are doing both an intake and down pipe, you’ll need to upgrade the fuel system. Downpipes open up the flow of the exhaust and gives a nice boost in power. There’s no set number of gains from just a downpipe and each car will yield different results.
@david romero ive got a 2017 VA so EJ. Im maxing out the stock injectors, and pump now.. Thats my winter project; Catted Cobb 3" downpipe, injectors, pump, 3 port boost controller, not sure i need to upgrade the FPR and rails.. protune.
@@Autofreakgarage Gun metal i believe will look good on the ISM color. If i don't plan on lowering my car as low as your(thinking of white line springs that lowers like .5 Inch) is there any rubbing issues? I see the Off set it like +30.
Thanks for the informative video! Does your engine consume any oil at all? Any tips for oil consumption problems? Also, why don’t you have an AOS installed? Just curious! Thanks!
Loved the informative video👌. I recently went to stage two, but realized I had to take off my intake cause of the fuel system not supporting does two mods. Do you know what maxes out first, injectors or fuel pump? If I would upgrade to 1050 injectors would the stock fuel pump meet the required pressure for the injectors to work.
Fuel pump will not be able to provide the proper fueling so definitely that first. My suggestion is to do both. Not providing enough fuel will cause the car to lean out.
Love your channel, I have a 2016 STi stage 1+ MAPerformance intake and OTS tune. I’m really considering going your route and swapping for a Cobb sf intake, then Brentuning e tune. My question is, did you feel a noticeable power increase with the e tune over the MAPerformance stage 1+ OTS tune? Thanks man, your videos are super helpful!
Thanks for the support! I felt a difference, yes. But not necessarily an increase. The map tune felt more aggressive and twitchy, where the bren feels way smoother, in control and dialed. It’s not always about power! I highly recommend getting off the map and going to bren. You’ll be way happier and so will the car.
Great to know, the MAP tune has been good to me but I live in CA and this intake is not CARB approved, also I worry about water during heavy rain. I’m still within MAPs warranty period and can return my intake and buy Cobb’s intake. Thank you for the info and for your honest feedback!
@@Autofreakgarage thanks boss. Also I had recently purchased a COBB SF Intank & Acessport, also a catted invidia downpipe. Should I b fine for a few months ?
Very thoughtful insights on the VAB chasis, on my GVB I installed the Cobb AP/dp stage 2 base map and adjusted the map to LWG/normal/HWG according to my car's parameters with no problems but ymmv on each sti.
@@Autofreakgarage ok thanks for the reply im going e85 next month since it’s hard to get parts due to covid for now just basic then fuel mods like you said with downpipe soo the car is happy
Idk man. I had MAPerformance's Stage 2+, intake, downpipe and tune and my fuel injectors were maxed out with that. 300whp/torque. Ran it for 45k miles before I sold my STi. I'd put bus lengths on stage 1+ STis and from a dig I was neck and neck with SRT392s until like 108 mph at the strip.Fimished my quarter mile in 12.6 at 108-109. But I was on my maintenance schedule like nobody's business xD.
Wow all I gotta say is “so well said” !!! I have a 2014 sti hatch with close to the same mods as you with Cobb sf and I’m happy to drive a reliable subaru that is super fun and doesn’t blow up lol. I’ve had a lot of Subarus a 98RS with a 02 wrx swap by rallispec in New Jersey super happy drove the car regularly never had a problem they are a great shop!!! and a bunch of other Subaru’s, Wrx 02 bugeye, as well as Outback’s and never really had any issues. I totally agree that a lot of the issues are user error for sure. At my last job for eight years delivering new cars to journalists all over the north east, I drove practically every car under the sun from the Dodge Hellcat Redeye and Track Hawk(straight line cars, no fun lol) all the Gtis Golf Rs, Nissan Zs and GTRs, BMW M cars, all the Mercedes AMG cars all the Audi RS cars Audi R8s(personal favorite) Porsche 911 Turbos, Bentley GTs, Rolls Royces, Lamborghini Aventador‘s and many more (best job I ever had lol), and I have to say that my Sti still felt the best as a daily driving fun car on New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania roads. Great video man!!!
My 2015 is running a stage 2 pro tuned by Corbin Johnson and my afr is perfect. Down pipe, cobb sf intake and tune. The pistons are what you need to worry about in the current STIs. Even at stage 2.
My 19 STI is on Stage 2 AEM cai,invidia catted lower section dp,AEM FP ,Turbosmart BPV,namless catback,Greemspeed 3port BC , IAG AOS comp series,GDT 4 cyl cooling mode and pro Tune. IDC on hard pull is 98% . But few days ago got 100.75% 🤦♂️ .... Injectors are maxed out for sure !!! 300whp ,325 torque
Damn I literately just read like 100 comments trying to find answers to my questions!! I guess Im just sticking with my STAGE 1+ eTune. I dont want to complicate things with a Downpipe… I like my STI how it is now and the power it has. It is enough for me… SAID NO SUBI OWNER EVER!!! 😂 No but seriously I think I will stay like this for a while. Thanks for your info MAN!
Thank you for this video, im actually thinking about Maperformance’s stage 2 tune with their downpipe updgrade and tune,ive read some of their reviews and says it working fine,but your video had me 2nd thingking about it.
@Joshua actually im running MAP’s stage1+ tune for a year now, I didn’t experience any problems at all aside from getting a -1.41 of feedback knock/fine knock learn mostly when the car goes for boost.
If you run a downpipe without a tune on a subaru you deserve to have your engine go kaboom 😂
😂😂😂😂
100% agreed . People who even think about doing that deserve it the full affect
You can drive it without a tune its not restrictive like the original downpipe thats restrictive with two cats . Its getting all the gasses out , but I heard a tune is advised to get the most out of it. Plus to stop the check engine light if it happens . I think more so you need a tune for the catless.
if you change any air flow whether it is intake or exhaust (excluding putting a cat back/axle back exhaust) you most definitely should tune for it. If you don't you are playing with fire and if that fire happens to be your daily you're gonna have a bad time.
@@ridetoliveofficial693 yeah I think you do need a tune lol. I was on the fence about it in my previous comments. But yes a tune is very necessary for this upgrade. If you stay off of boost you can drive it for awhile but who the fuck stays off of any boost nowadays.
when you mod the STI, this always happen:
1. Just do an axel back, I just want more boxer rumber.
2 lets do a catback, axel back is not that aggressive
3 Boxer rumble is not enough, I need some noise from engine bay!!let a cold air intake and a BOV, and TUNE It!(so I buy access port, BOV and intake, spend money on protune simultaneously)
4 The sound is still not AGGRESSIVE, I need more sound from the exaust, lets do a catless downpipe!!!!
5 I need to upgrade the fuel system to keep up the power
6 I need to upgrade the turbo to make the car not run that hard
7 I need to upgrade TMIC to a FMIC
8 OH, my STI already got 400 whp, I think it is time to change the internal to make it run safely, lets do a forged piston!!!
.......
10 EJ257 KABOOOOM....
Haha this made me laugh. Pretty much spot on with any car though. It’s part of the journey and all part of the fun!
LOL. I wish my STi made 400 horsepower from those mods xD.
Dont blow if you can drive and have a good tune. Im “stage 1.5” on my 18 STI. The injectors are low CC on these cars, but its the fuel pump more than it is the injectors. You can make 320-330 all day on stock injectors with upgraded FP. I have a cobb DP to cat back exhaust. No intake, I make 312 whp, 363 tq (high map) and 307/350 (on low map) and highest IDC that I hit on track is 90-91%. I drive it daily and to and from the track. Max 86% on road if i do a hard pull. Im on Long Island as well. My car runs incredibly
I'm done with step 2, flirting with step 3,...... naahhh the extra 80hp isn't worth 4 to 6 thousand dollars.... Better to just tuck that money away for the next car - 2023 STI ????
@@Devon_Meadows I have a 21 wrx and it’s stage 1 + Cobb I put catback exhaust on and it’s running rich now because the exhaust my buddy says I should do t delete and go stage 2 to stop it from running rich do you think it will be safe to run stage 2? Or what should I do??
It'll only lean out if you run an Intake AND a downpipe together. You can run a Downpipe without an intake and you won't lean out plus you'll get way more power than with an intake
I have almost full bolt ons with stock injectors, pump, lines, rails and a protune...my idc never goes above 85%. It's all on the tune imo
Email tune or dynotune?
@drliu in 99% of cases people don't understand how bad it is for an engine to have injectors go over 80% duty. Any modification has the potential to exceed stock injectors easily on a Subaru. If you're going to spend $$$ on upgrades....spend a little more $$$ on oversized injectors so your tune can be safe and have the ability for the ECU to adapt if extra fuel is required and beleive me, while tuning them I've seen people try to run cars that try to request +115% injector duty and that is impossible when they thought they had that kind of head room. ALl it takes is season changes and other scenarios. Spend the extra to get the correct supporting mods and be safe!!! Think about it....injectors are cheaper than buying a brand new short block....
I’ve ran multiple stage 2 Subarus on reputable e tunes at over 100% IDC well over 100k with zero problems
By the time you hit stage 3, the turbo will be next thing that gets maxed out. Upgrade to an 18-20G size turbo to make the same power with less effort than an overworked, tiny, stock turbo. Go too big in turbo size and too high in power, you'll lose response while eventually maxing out your engine's structural integrity.
Also, the stock TMIC, radiator, and oil cooler were designed for stock horsepower. They need to be upgraded as you increase horsepower since more heat is generated to make the car accelerate faster.
If you go FMIC, add rear facing hood vents or replace the hood for a rear vented option to dissipate the heat in the engine bay. Hood scoops with no intercoller behind it will create positive pressures in the engine compartment and will render your front heat exchangers useless, even if you have the fattest radiator installed.
You're right though. The issues are mainly the owners themselves. Great video!
It’s a rabbit hole. One thing leads to the next. Great information though!
@@Autofreakgarage Totally agree, lol.
In the end, the only way to make 400+ wheel hp in a 2015+ wrx/ sti with no worries is to spend the $4k for a built motor with forged internals. People dont realize that stock engines are generally garbage, but they want to race those shitty mustang anyway
@@bradgreen987 The motor will last as long as how you treat it. 400whp-600whp forged builds also break. If the problem is the owner, he will never get away from it, regardless of what car he jumps into next.
@@bradgreen987 the 19 sti has revised rods,pistons and third gear. People are running over 450whp and no problems on the stock motor.
I was considering going stage 2 from a stock 2016 STI. I think you make a great point. Might as well do it all right and keep it safe. I think I'll go stage 1+ for now, no need to rush into blowing it up too fast. Thanks!
Smart move!
Excellent info ! Another way to protect the motor is use a really top tier fuel 93 octane but tune the car for 91 octane. The extra octane level helps with knock. If you tuned for 93 and you get questionable fuel or it’s from the bottom of the stations tank it may not actually be 91 half by the time it’s pumped. Loving this channel.
My favorite STI hands down.
Done just right IMO.
Thank you, sir.
Can’t see point in having a Subaru if your not going to make it faster with mods n tune
I have been running stage two for 4 years just downpipe its fine never had a problem
I completely agree. This car gets bad rep due to incomplete work and not doing it properly. Tuning is a must if you do a downpipes and anything else with the engine. If you take care of your car, pay attention on how it is driving and not push it beyond its limits in accordance with your mods, it will last you longer and give you smiles for a long time. I think majority time people rush and drive it unsafely, or too aggressively without proper mods running and that is why we hear stories of them breaking down. I have run a cvt 2019 with 274 whP and it was great. I didn't push it beyond its limits , listened to my tuner and what professional advise they had to offer. It lasted me a great run.
I purchased a used 2019 STI which has a catted Invidia downpipe and COBB SF intake. I am starting to understand why I am getting P0420 codes now.
Can I get an OEM downpipe and downgrade to Stage 1? If so, does it have to be an OEM downpipe or is there an aftermarket equivalent?
The other option is to move to Stage 3, I guess. I prefer reliability over power seeking. What do you suggest?
Realistically what's the WHP achievable with the stage 2+ ?
300 -320 whp, that's not worth dumping a whole bunch of money imo. Just, enjoy it as is folks. It will last longer too.
It's risky. My 2016 sti got ringland failure stock. The car had about 59k miles when it happened. Im the type of person who took care of their car, monitored everything, never modified the car for performances. I would suggest that if you do decide to mod your car that you start saving up for a rebuild engine. You may or may not be lucky with longevity of your car.
I have a stock 2016 STi right now. 72k miles. 3k oil changes. I still worry about ringland. Anything we can do to help prevent it?
If you take your car to a tuner, put it on a dyno, all issues can be tuned out. People that run e tunes blow their cars up. I've got a heavily modified 2016 wrx and it screams, daily driver at 320 wheel hp. Just don't exceed 350 torque! That's the key
I wanted to make some performance tuning but i was told if you make changes you need to get access port and a tune but things need to get changed back for smog so i stopped at Cobb cat back exhaust.
Stage 2 here (2015), catted dp, full catback exhaust, tgv delete, k&n drop-in filter, Ecutek 91 tuned (20psi on S#) and running perfectly since over two years. Motul oil change and air filter clean every 6,000km. Still OEM injectors, not even maxxed out. 🤷🏼♂️
Why ecutek? Why 91?
@@CookinBeatloaf because tuner i trust propose ecutek or cobb ap and i prefered ecutek. Where i live there is not much 94 or i have to go a lot out of my way to get some, so 91 is more
More convenient*
correct me if i am wrong on cobb stage 2 tune with downpipe you take the SF intake off and put factory intake back on with downpipe.Ihave the cobb stage 1 SF with 93 octane tune. Id like get a tune for cobb intake and downpipe.....if that is possible.????
Cobb does not offer a stage 2+ ots for the 15+. If you look on the accessport it goes from stage 1+ to stage 3.
You’ll have to do an etune or pro/dyno tune if you want to stay stage 2+.
If you look at dyno comparisons the WRX actually gets bigger gains than the sti until you go full bolt on plus fuel upgrades (stage 3+) so that's what I jumped to. It was a lot of fun but I'm currently on week 7 without a car waiting for my 600hp build to be done. The most painful time if my life I gotta say. Pay big ass money to wait....
Does this logic apply to the WRX? Does the lower power rating of the WRX provide more flexibility to run the Stage 2+?
I am referring to the ej motor in this video. I don’t have experience with an fa, so I can’t comment on that, unfortunately.
@@Autofreakgarage ok thank you!
@@Autofreakgarage I got good feedback from MAPerformance today. They ran their test FA20 with their 2+ upgrades for several years and did not have any problems.
Not really related but what’s your take on air filters? Would u recommended getting a washable one like the grimmspeed dry con air filter?
Dry is better since you don’t have to worry about any of the intake oil getting into the motor.
I have a 2015 Subaru WRX STI launch edition with Cobb intake and downpipe and catless exhaust with a stage 1+ otm tune with Cobb port but check engine light on saying that I'm burning lean bank 1 so do I need to get stage 2 and upgrade my fuel system? To fix my check engine light?
There isn't an OTS tune that you can run on these cars for stage 2+ (intake+downpipe). You'll need to get a pro tune to get your issues sorted out.
Thank you for your videos!! I'm upgrading my 2016 STI, and going all in. I've done this to my R53 Mini, and now my next project is the STI. I'm glad to hear that what I'm doing, and what you recommend is in alignment. I'm doing a 2+, stage 3, by what you are saying in the video. I'm doing the flex fuel and swapping everything out and upgrading the injectors etc. I'm looking to stay at around 400 HP suspension is soon after, but the coilovers are going to be custom so I have to wait for them to come in.
So would a easy “cheaper” add on to the stage one+ be to go to a larger not crazy injector size that won’t max your fuel pump? That way you won’t be maxing your stock injectors and still keep that reliability.
Fuel pump at the very least, but yes adding injectors wouldn’t hurt.
What year and model is this subaru? It’s sooooo nice
2017 STI
i have catback and intake and ive never seen above 76% IDC. Just ordered a catless downpipe. Ive read its downpipe or intake, not both. Then read guys saying their duty cycles have been fine with both. Then read some guys duty cycles are fine until winter.
I tune myself so i guess ill find out.
Hey, just wanted to update you, i have had my 3" downpipe along with an aem uego installed for the last few weeks, payed, took the test and received access tuner race.
I will update you again when my wife gets home and can drive the car for me on the highway while i have the laptop in passenger seat.
As an update about IDC's with the downpipe, the max ive seen so far is 82% at WOT at 19.5psi and tapering to 14-15 after 5k on a 58 degree afternoon.
Also as an update, much of what ive read about these cars and tunes has be BS. But what would you do if you were recieving 3-600$ for an etune for simple mods that takes 15 minutes of your time. Such as the brentuning pop tune, that takes 3 minutes to make.
I also know im just another username on the internet, so .02 cents, grains of salt, ect... Ive been tuning dsm's ,3000gt's, srt4's and evo's sine 2006 as an fyi. All cars ive owned and trusted no one with
none of this is to deny needing a tune. But just to see if you can do 2+ on stock fuel. I will let you know if i am right or wrong.
After letting the car warm up, then resetting the ecu to reset fuel trims, idling for 10 minutes after that with coolant temp at 187deg , showed -0.78 on af correction 1 and -3 on af learning 1. But i have no more info passed idle yet
*edit2* I love your wheels and if you know how to read logs, i can send them to you to see.
so were you fine running intake and catless dp on stock fuel system?
@@Pedro-mk5qr yes
@@jeffp5730 thanks bro
My new conclusion: I will never modify my car.
Haha we both know that will never happen.
How much power you think I can make with a budget of 5500
So just a Cobb catted downpipe and the stage 2 tune should be good right? Even on a stock exhaust with a muffler deletes. I want a little more power for my DD but don’t really want it too loud so I wanted to keep stock exhaust and resonator with muffler delete to still be able to hear the rumble but not annoyingly loud.
Yes that will be fine. It’s just when you add an intake to that mix is when things get a little fishy and fueling mods should be done.
@@Autofreakgarage thanks for the reply but eventually I’d gone E tune. Looking at bren tuning specifically.
So im coming from a mk7 Gti platform, ive always liked subies when i was younger but ive always heard stories that they have bad rep with blowing up. I was thinking about buying a 2015 sti and buying a stage 3 iag closed deck once i purchase the car. Could i run a stock iag stage 3 block and run stock turbo until i buy downpipe, exhaust, fueling, injectors, turbo? Or will the car be un happy?
If you are going to build the motor, I would do it the right way and do all the supporting mods with it. Maybe build one on the side if you are nervous about it.
i’m about to buy a 2017 sti and i’m really curious on your rims. the cleanest ones i’ve seen on any on the yt videos for sure. While ur reading, can u also put me on to some good meaty sticky tires for me?
Enkei rs05rr’s and good summer tire is Michelin ps4s
2019-2020 have the Type RA block so should be able to take more power
That’s cap!?
So if I get a down pipe, catback, and a cold air I have to get a tune and better injectors? Do you have a link as to where to get all the stuff? For injectors and the pump? Also do you recommend an AOS and doing TCG and EGR delete?
You need a tune if you even just do a downpipe. Or just an intake. And definitely if you do both. There are many places to go for all of this stuff. All depends on budget snd how deep you want to dive. Yes I recommend doing all the supporting mods at once to make it safe and reliable.
@@Autofreakgarage okay thank you and I’m your video you said COBB makes a kit for all the fueling issues that you would have? Because I can do the full exhaust, intake, and I’ve been told to also do the cylinder 4 cooling mod but I did not know about the fueling problem so thank you very much!
Yes cobb has full packages to do it all safely. They are very reputable parts and can get you set up. Yes, the fueling on these cars are the weakest points. Once upgraded, you can start adding power safely.
@@Autofreakgarage awesome thank you so much man! Glad I didn’t get the parts and have the fueling issue right off the bat. Very much appreciated, I will look into it!
My car is a 2018 stage 2, Cobb intake, Grimm speed ebcs, invida tbe w/catted dp. My AFR are spot on pull after pull, and my idc never go above 90%.
How has this been working for you? I am about to do the same on my 21 sti.
@@TommysPlaypin traded in the car for something that was more reliable unfortunately. But I beat on the car a ton and it never missed a beat. The only problem I had was the check engine light came on due to the catted down pipe. My tuner turned the light off.
Super awesome insight and mindset.. i just got a 2017 STI 12k.. just bought a downpipe and adaptor. off of Rally sport direct 10mins ago. I'm wanting to go FP Green. Your video made me step back and THINK.. Its time to start collecting alot of parts and works lots of Overtime. Nice Car BTW
Smart move! Do it right the first time. It’ll cost more, but promise you’ll have a much happier and healthier car.
@@Autofreakgarage 6 grand and some. Wrench time then hopefully looking for like 360 to 380 hp
So even if it's just the downpipe and a tune with only the stock intake, you still need to upgrade the fuel system?
Without an intake, you should be ok. But that depends on the aggression of your tune. The fueling system is this car is a weak link and recommend upgrading it if higher than stage 1+
@@Autofreakgarage Cool! Thanks man!
Would you trust maperformance stage 2 kit that includes their own intake , downpipe and custom tune they will email? They said the tune will make it so you wont need to upgrade the fuel system and they have a video on youtube as well.
Personally, I had a bad experience with map’s stage 1+ tune and intake. I won’t be using any of their parts for performance upgrades on my car.
A TH-camr named Smeedia (he has a STi and BRZ) also has in issue with MAPerformance. He likes their kits but some small parts were NOT included when they arrived.
If I’m correct I do not need a tune for a catback and a cold air intake right? I’m also getting a cobb accesport, and a friend is selling his stage 2 clutch master with fly wheel, do you recommend me to buy it having the mods mentioned above?
For a Catback, no tune needed. If you add an intake, yes you will need a tune. I wouldn’t recommend upgrading the clutch on stock power. No need for it.
@@Autofreakgarage got it, and that can be done with the cobb accesport or do I have to take it for a shop tune? Also thanks for the fast reply, new sub!
Accessport will take care of the intake
COBB website clearly has a Stage 2 power package for 2015-2018 STI
They do not have a stage 2+ map.
@@Autofreakgarage just remove the aftermarket intake, flash the COBB map and all is well?
You could, but the intake is part of the fun. It adds a great visual experience. Plus, I had the nice cobb carbon redline intake that truest decreases the overall IAT’s by a lot.
I just went with bigger fuel pump extremely easy to change and injectors. Stock turbo and minor bolt ons and im sitting at 315 whp and 350 torque. Super fun sounds great
What size injectors
can i run cobb stage 2 91 tune with a downpipe & catback on my wrx without changing the fueling? (no intake) without running into issues.
Wrxs are a bit different as they can handle more power without having to upgrade the fueling right away. I would confirm this route with someone more knowledgeable on the fa motor though.
Does the same apply to putting a catted downpipe on a FA20?
Yes, I wouldn’t bother going catless unless I was on a built motor going for power. The high flow gesi cats thaw days give almost identical results as a catless downpipe these days.
I only want the intake but don’t want to run the ots map. What tune are you running ? And for how many mikes ? Thanks
Highly advise to not take this approach. I am running a brentune. Over 12k miles on it.
Scoobyfreak86 ok so you recommend getting the e tune from Bren tuning and the cobb intake? Also do you have an Accessport ?
Yes and yes
Thanks man also what oil do you run 5w30 or 5w40? What do you think of motul?
OEM Subaru oil and filters. Motul is good and would recommend.
If you run Cob OTS map, you need to have the same catted and O2 sensor design as the COBB downpipe. People start running catless and have issues without knowing the difference.
I’m on Brenntuning Stage 2 catted Invidia dp and N1 exhaust for 2 years, no issues no dips in DAM. My buddy’s WRX stage 1 COBB OTS has issues with his DAM. Also know another STi owner but he didn’t know that running a BOV was an issue, even after he blew up a motor.
Your title should really say “DON’T go Stage 2 without knowing what you’re doing.”
I explain in the video what needs to be done in order to do it safely. Title got you to watch no?
you aren’t running an intake. I am specially talking about stage 2+ as people don’t realize they can’t run a downpipe with an intake and not have issues. Unless you do proper fueling mods or have a very reputable tuner who knows what they are doing, the car will run into issues down the line.
@@Autofreakgarage Yes, I'm just sharing my experience. Still you mentioned Stage 2 more and the title says Stage 2, not 2+.
Ok Im confused 🙄🙄
Can I or CANT I install a down pipe with a cold air intake (basically STAGE 2) NOT STAGE 2+. And after a good ETune be totally safe????
Because I do want to go STAGE 2. NOT STAGE 2+!!!
I currently have a MAP Intake, Accessport (Stage 1+ basically)
Just by adding the Downpipe will put me at Stage 2, right?? And will it be SAFE after a good Etune??? 🤔
Stage 2+ is a tune, Downpipe and intake. I’d recommend upgrading the fuel system if you go this route. So if you already have an intake and you add a downpipe, you’ll be at stage 2+ and need to start upgrading other areas to run it safely.
@@Autofreakgarage damn man you are awesome thanks for answering!
So… Going JUST STAGE 2, would be just a tune an a Down-pipe BUT with a STOCK intake???
Is it safe to just do a good intake and full system exhaust ,then run a tune to adjust accordingly and just keep everything "stock"? I'm about to try to get one of these ,and all I truly want is a full system borla and a cold air intake and let the car live its life that way. Think thats a safe move?
No, I would not recommend running an intake and a full turboback alone. A proper tune and all the supporting fueling mods are a must if you want it to run smoothly, safely, and properly.
@@Autofreakgarage I think you misread, I 100% know i need a tune along with the intake & exhaust
what i mean is i dont wanna start modifying fuel system, cooling/oil flow systems
i really just wanna get a nice intake, borla exhaust and a tune to bring it up to speed and then just keep the car at that point.
Sorry hopefully I don't come off as rude i've just been following your channel for a while and you seem very knowledgeable. Alot of the company's i talk to seem like they are trying to rush me into spending as much money on parts and get to stage 3 asap and I just know how these cars are. I wanna get mine unlocked how it should be but i dont wanna push limits, i've seen these cars never see 50k miles and i've also seen some with over 300k
I did not misread it. I was explaining that if you want to do a downpipe and an intake on the VA (15+) STI, it is 100% recommended to upgraded all the fueling components. At stage 1+ (tune and intake), your stock injectors are maxed out. Going with a downpipe will open up more power (and will need more fuel) and since the injectors won't be able to keep up, it'll cause your motor to lean out and cause premature wear and it will have a high probability of grenading itself.
Companies are not trying to make you spend money. They are giving you advise on how to properly modify your 2015+ EJ25 motor and have it run smoothly, safely, and properly. The wrx and sti's that you see have 300K miles are the ones that modified correctly and maintain their cars religiously. Which are two things I ALWAYS preach.
If I just want 300-320 whp from my 21 sti, what should I do to get it reliably?
Intake and a proper tune
@@Autofreakgarage dang, thanks for the quick reply. Another question, does a catback require a tune? Also, would an air oil separator beneficial?
Basically let me put it like this, you got 5gs to make the car as fast yet reliable as possible. What do you do?
Thanks for your help, new to subies and your channel is sick.
Check out this video. It should help you for sure. And yes, definitely recommend an aos.
th-cam.com/video/bk2uggYRvCU/w-d-xo.html
I’ve heard stage 2 is safe if you don’t run a cold air intake
It’s safer than going to stage 2+, but I would still recommend upgrading fueling as the stock fuel system limits a lot.
@@Autofreakgarage so then would it be better to just go stage 3 with the upgraded fueling
Agree. That’s what I did
So would you ever go stage 3 down the road? Or just stick with stock?
Most likely stick to my current stage 1+, but stage 3 isn’t out of the question.
hey man i just got a 2018 STI, what front lip is that?
th-cam.com/video/AwnVwym5lXg/w-d-xo.html
In regards to tuning, if hypothetically, I installed a new part like a cool air intake and do an etune, how long would you be comfortable driving your car before getting fully tuned if it takes a week or so? Would you run OTC before hand and then transition to the etune to make sure the part is tuned in ASAP? Just curious on the timeline of how much you'd drive when a new part is just put in without a tune. Thanks for your work!
The whole e tuning process from bren took a few days. They work off the of the Cobb ots maps. Just don’t rag on the car unless your tuner needs the logs and explains what they need.
@@Autofreakgarage When modding before a tune did you have any issues with a check engine light being lit on, especially with the cool air intake?
No sir. The Cobb ots tune I ran was for stage 1+ which includes an intake.
So if I want to do a cat back exhaust and a cold air intake I should look at a 1+ tune?
Yes. You need a tune if you put an intake on.
Car's looking good there, nice job. Completely agree with the video. Do you plan on doing any chassis mods?
I’ve done coils, sways, endlinks, lca’s, and strut bar. Have one more piece coming, but that’s about it. It’s a daily so I don’t want to go overboard and make it unbearable to drive.
@@Autofreakgarage Very true, I eagerly look forward to your next video and build.
@Scoobyfreak86 So I have a 2021 STI and I put an ETS extreme catback on it and nothing else so far. I was planning to do an intake and a downpipe with possible injectors. I’m pretty new to the Subaru world, but from what I’ve researched so far that sounded like a pretty safe bet so long as I get good parts and make sure I have a tuner with experience and a good rep. Will I still get plenty of a power upgrade if I did that without the downpipe? Why is the downpipe such a big deal? How much of a difference does it really make overall? Thanks!!
I definitely don’t think I want to spend all the money to go flex fuel as it sounds too trouble some overall.
If you are doing both an intake and down pipe, you’ll need to upgrade the fuel system.
Downpipes open up the flow of the exhaust and gives a nice boost in power. There’s no set number of gains from just a downpipe and each car will yield different results.
Hi! Question how many revisions did you go through with bren before you got a final map ? Currently going through the same process!
4-5 if I recall. Took only a few days.
@@Autofreakgarage nice ! Great video by the way! Currently on revision 2 and he's already told me I'm at the end of my fuel system 🤣😅
Haha yup. You’ll love it though. It’s not the fastest car in the world, but it’s enough to have fun on the street.
Is it different for the VA wrx, I was looking at Grimmspeed stage 3 kit and it does not include fueling upgrades.
I know it’s direct injection, does it get fuel more efficiently or would you suggest fueling upgrades for the wrx as well, for stage 2, or 3.
I’m not familiar or as knowledgeable on the fa so I can’t comment on that.
@david romero awesome.
@david romero ive got a 2017 VA so EJ. Im maxing out the stock injectors, and pump now.. Thats my winter project; Catted Cobb 3" downpipe, injectors, pump, 3 port boost controller, not sure i need to upgrade the FPR and rails.. protune.
@david romero i dont know about the cobb FPR kit.. or the "anti stumble" kit.. the first review is a nightmare..
What about MAperformance Stage 2 (intake+downpipe with their tune)
I had my experience with MAP. I’m much happier with Bren.
@@Autofreakgarage where the AFRs lean on the map tune
They were all over the place and extremely inconsistent.
Great info good sir. Thanks and keep it rolling, brother!
Not going to lie i really like the wheels. What are they? Size 19s or 18s? I Drive a new 2020 STI. Loving it. Not new to the EJ platform though :)
Enkei rs05rr 18x9.5
@@Autofreakgarage Thanks man. I may end up getting me a set later on. Hopefully they come different colors. Mines Ice silver. :)
I believe they only come in black or gunmetal.
@@Autofreakgarage Gun metal i believe will look good on the ISM color. If i don't plan on lowering my car as low as your(thinking of white line springs that lowers like .5 Inch) is there any rubbing issues? I see the Off set it like +30.
Offset is +35. Yes you will rub. You’ll need to at least roll the rears.
What exhaust you running? Looks good
Delta motorworks
Thanks for the informative video! Does your engine consume any oil at all? Any tips for oil consumption problems? Also, why don’t you have an AOS installed? Just curious! Thanks!
No oil consumption issues. Change your oil every 3k. Do proper maintenance. I haven’t done an AOS because it’s a pain to install. I’ll do it one day.
Do an update on the brentuning! Thanks for the content
intake or downpipe not both, doesnt cobb clearly state that?
Correct. Stage 1+ (stage 1 tune and intake) or stage 2 (stage 2 tune and downpipe). Yes Cobb states this, but people still don’t listen.
I am going to pick up my one tomorrow, same color.
Loved the informative video👌. I recently went to stage two, but realized I had to take off my intake cause of the fuel system not supporting does two mods. Do you know what maxes out first, injectors or fuel pump? If I would upgrade to 1050 injectors would the stock fuel pump meet the required pressure for the injectors to work.
Fuel pump will not be able to provide the proper fueling so definitely that first. My suggestion is to do both. Not providing enough fuel will cause the car to lean out.
@@Autofreakgarage appreciate the help, and man your car is the cleanest out here bro. Love the clean look😍
what wheels are those and size/offset?
18x9.5 +35
What’s the wheel specs
What about a Cobb stage 2? Anyone had experience with them?
Completely agree! Stage 3 is where it’s at
Love your channel, I have a 2016 STi stage 1+ MAPerformance intake and OTS tune. I’m really considering going your route and swapping for a Cobb sf intake, then Brentuning e tune. My question is, did you feel a noticeable power increase with the e tune over the MAPerformance stage 1+ OTS tune? Thanks man, your videos are super helpful!
Thanks for the support! I felt a difference, yes. But not necessarily an increase. The map tune felt more aggressive and twitchy, where the bren feels way smoother, in control and dialed. It’s not always about power! I highly recommend getting off the map and going to bren. You’ll be way happier and so will the car.
Great to know, the MAP tune has been good to me but I live in CA and this intake is not CARB approved, also I worry about water during heavy rain. I’m still within MAPs warranty period and can return my intake and buy Cobb’s intake. Thank you for the info and for your honest feedback!
@@ZachThreeve where did you go for tuning in cali bro?
@@reysti2k19sanchez6 I ended up using Brentuning for an etune. I I were to pro tune, I would go to Snail Performance in auburn (Nor Cal).
I like the rims , what size are they?
Enkei RS05RR
How much is a Bren tuning im interested
Check their website for current pricing.
@@Autofreakgarage thanks boss. Also I had recently purchased a COBB SF Intank & Acessport, also a catted invidia downpipe. Should I b fine for a few months ?
I would put a tune on it ASAP.
@@Autofreakgarage the Cobb ots tune it comes with,
Cobb doesn’t have a stage 2+ tune.
Great vid, can you do a tune to have it run better eliminating the rev hang without getting an intake, thank you man
Yes you can just get a tune without anything else.
Thank you, I appreciate it, learning much from your channel
Very thoughtful insights on the VAB chasis, on my GVB I installed the Cobb AP/dp stage 2 base map and adjusted the map to LWG/normal/HWG according to my car's parameters with no problems but ymmv on each sti.
What wheels? Size and specs
Enkei rs05rr 18x9.5 +35
Nice wheels - what size are they?
18x9.5
who makes that cf add on for the wing on top?
Subispeed
@@Autofreakgarage awesome, im looking for a replacement, I have the passwordjdm one and the clear started chipping within 2 months.
Passeword jdm is known for that. Mine is almost a year old and no issues at all. Still looks brand new.
th-cam.com/video/0yH7dtkkKsI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for bringing us yet another vibe 🥂 enjoyed
does this apply with accss port and intake?
No. This only include when you add a Downpipe with an already installed intake.
@@Autofreakgarage ok thanks for the reply im going e85 next month since it’s hard to get parts due to covid for now just basic then fuel mods like you said with downpipe soo the car is happy
What rims are those
Enkei rs05rr
damn, that is a beautiful car.
What wheels do you have??
Enkei rs05rr
Maperfomance tune made for the sti with their parts (great idea)
is ur front bumper re paint?
Nope. I just did the 2020 front bumper upgrade though.
what wheels are those?
Enkei rs05rr
@@Autofreakgarage thanks man, thinking about picking up a set they look good!
Your car is so clean 😍
Idk man. I had MAPerformance's Stage 2+, intake, downpipe and tune and my fuel injectors were maxed out with that. 300whp/torque. Ran it for 45k miles before I sold my STi. I'd put bus lengths on stage 1+ STis and from a dig I was neck and neck with SRT392s until like 108 mph at the strip.Fimished my quarter mile in 12.6 at 108-109. But I was on my maintenance schedule like nobody's business xD.
were you on stock injectors and pump?
Love knowledgeable vids like this. Helps me with my build.
Is this Lapis blue pearl? “Car paint”
And what wheels and tires?
Yes lapis blue. Enkei rs05rr’s Michelin as3+
Scoobyfreak86 thank you, love it.
bro my car runs super rich the exhaust is caked in carbon
No Stage 3 without the built engine
Wow all I gotta say is “so well said” !!!
I have a 2014 sti hatch with close to the same mods as you with Cobb sf and I’m happy to drive a reliable subaru that is super fun and doesn’t blow up lol.
I’ve had a lot of Subarus a 98RS with a 02 wrx swap by rallispec in New Jersey super happy drove the car regularly never had a problem they are a great shop!!! and a bunch of other Subaru’s, Wrx 02 bugeye, as well as Outback’s and never really had any issues. I totally agree that a lot of the issues are user error for sure.
At my last job for eight years delivering new cars to journalists all over the north east, I drove practically every car under the sun from the Dodge Hellcat Redeye and Track Hawk(straight line cars, no fun lol) all the Gtis Golf Rs, Nissan Zs and GTRs, BMW M cars, all the Mercedes AMG cars all the Audi RS cars Audi R8s(personal favorite) Porsche 911 Turbos, Bentley GTs, Rolls Royces, Lamborghini Aventador‘s and many more (best job I ever had lol), and I have to say that my Sti still felt the best as a daily driving fun car on New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania roads.
Great video man!!!
My 2015 is running a stage 2 pro tuned by Corbin Johnson and my afr is perfect. Down pipe, cobb sf intake and tune. The pistons are what you need to worry about in the current STIs. Even at stage 2.
Corbin is the best
My 19 STI is on Stage 2 AEM cai,invidia catted lower section dp,AEM FP ,Turbosmart BPV,namless catback,Greemspeed 3port BC , IAG AOS comp series,GDT 4 cyl cooling mode and pro Tune. IDC on hard pull is 98% . But few days ago got 100.75% 🤦♂️ .... Injectors are maxed out for sure !!!
300whp ,325 torque
Upgrade the injectors and you’ll be set!
@@Autofreakgarage Have to 😉
Nice to see you got back to the BEST wheels for STI 🤙🤙
My tuner has had my IDCs on the stock injectors at stage 2 at 110% with zero issues long term
All that work for 300whp
@@LlLnig 300whp is still lots of fun on the streets when you push it to the limits.
Well reasoned and explained.
Very informative. I’m going to go the same route you did for my 2015 sti
Stage 1+ is next
I’m already at stage 1+
Damn I literately just read like 100 comments trying to find answers to my questions!!
I guess Im just sticking with my STAGE 1+ eTune. I dont want to complicate things with a Downpipe… I like my STI how it is now and the power it has. It is enough for me…
SAID NO SUBI OWNER EVER!!! 😂
No but seriously I think I will stay like this for a while.
Thanks for your info MAN!
I love this car makes me smile even babying the car. Wish I had your color.
Thank you for this video, im actually thinking about Maperformance’s stage 2 tune with their downpipe updgrade and tune,ive read some of their reviews and says it working fine,but your video had me 2nd thingking about it.
@Joshua Syrotchen the stage 1 from ma performance is much safer then the cobb ots mapb
@Joshua actually im running MAP’s stage1+ tune for a year now, I didn’t experience any problems at all aside from getting a -1.41 of feedback knock/fine knock learn mostly when the car goes for boost.
I wish I went with Lapis Blue😍