1: That chain is vibrating quite a bit at certain RPM. Maybe a small guide sprocket to keep it stable and tight would give you more stable RPM in your runs and smoother curves? 2: If you are unsure if rich/thin mix is holding you back, why not try to do some runs with the tank at different heights, just to explore what happens to the curves? 3: Since you got the same power with the belt shifted one notch ( ~13 deg), there's a possibility those two offsets are on either side of a peak; offsetting half (~6,5 deg) might give you the best compromise and a gain. 4: You absolutely need to make sure your spark is 100% performing, so that you can eliminate that variable as you try other stuff! Otherwise you are chasing your tail.
Agreed on all points An adjustable pulley on the rotary valve or crank along with a dead simple super powerful ignition system like an IGN-1a or Ls v8 smart coil would be ideal.
Agreed, Will probably need more of an ignition system when trying to burn that much fuel and pushing the boost/power like it is. However it is weird to suddenly develop the misfire
Why not smoketest the engine? with the exhaust valve closed and carb removed you should be able to put pressure into the whole engine and detect leaks easy and quick.
Dude, killer idea. Like a flow bench for an entire engine, yeah? Dude..... Could maybe even pulse some air through and maybe get a measurement of mass airflow Dude #FlowbenchtheNitro50 Lmao
The dyno sessions ive been waiting too see ,longer runs combined with reliability of parts.. yes! Well done Alex..now comes comparisons and experiments
I do like the idea of multiple /2 spark plugs , but I really think you need to achieve a "BIGGER FATTER" spark , I think you may be snuffing out the spark at the rate the fuel/air mix is getting stuffed into the chamber... A plasma ignition , or a MSD car type Coil at 60000+ Volts output may help in flame propagation... If you have noticed the American "TOP FUEL" rail dragsters are always snuffing out cylinders because of the extreme amounts of fuel being dumped in to the combustion chambers at high r.p.m... I'm sure you will work out this little screamer Alex... Keep going...
Go further than that top fuel spark plugs last about 1 second after that they are melted and the engine starts to diesel and some cylinders don't fire and still goes 330mph In 1000ft
As a former EMI compliance engineer I can safely say that seperating your instrumentation cables is wrong. Electromagnetic emissions and susceptibility are both proportional to the area between the cables. As long as they are individually shielded, they should be in one bundle with a means to keep them together. Seperating them can make the area increase many thousands of times and therefore make EMI problems much worse. It could be helpful also to wrap the bundle with foil and connect it to earth ground with your instrument ground.
I couldn't get a stable USB connection on my ignitech CDI when I would rev the bike on shielded spark wire. When I foil wrapped the spark wire and touched the foil to the head it would shield enough to keep the connection pretty stable. IMHO it may be easier to attack the source of the noise.
Great video as always! Have you thought about building a prechamber ignition system? It would basically just be an adapter with a little prechamber that threads into your existing spark plug location. Your normal spark plug then goes into the adapter. There are research papers that show a big improvement in flame velocity as well as knocking ( if i remember correctly), which obviously means more power and better igniteability.
We dyno'd my brothers factory spec TZM-R 49cc 2 stroke @ 7.5 HP. At 1 bar it would probably only be around 15 so you are doing pretty darn good and probably will get even more!
Try iridium plugs and try indexing the the electrode with shims at various positions. You need a much higher power ignition system with bigger gap. No resistor iridium racing plug, solid conductor plug wire, huge 50kv+ coil and shield all the test leads with a good connection to earth. Drive a copper ground rod 2M into the earth. You might also try to scallop the combustion chamber to aid in mixing air and fuel, work great on jet skis....
Nice to see the dyno working properly now. Seems like the engine is now limited to around 20hp, without much difference from ignition or valve timing. More radical change is required. Try even more reduction for the supercharger. Maybe the sweet spot is now around 10000, after that the supercharger falls out of efficient area and starts to consume too much power. Since it revs that well, the blowdown is probably enough. Moving the same torque to 14000 or so - that would be even more nuts.
I just got a new TV and let me say, beyond appreciating your madness with this project, I really appreciate your commitment to cameras/filming and editing. It’a a pleasure to watch
Excellent work. Your progress is remarkable. G10 Phenolic Sheet may be a suitable choice for reeds. Its not affected by methanol, is readily available, machines/cuts easy and its cheap. I have used it for EVER as reed material in conventional 2 stroke applications and its always worked well for me.
Your content had grown so much in the past year!!! Really enjoying the hard work you’re putting into these videos. Just increased my patreon contribution because of it
I think the ignition is the main hold up at the moment. You need a much more robust coil + plug combo than what that controller can offer. Love the quality of your videos now days dude, super satisfying to watch 😁
19hp going from 10.5 to 15.5 thousand rpm is crazy numbers. In theory you could make it function well on a super wide 3 speed gearbox all the way from stand still to 150km/h. Absolute madness I say.
"It did the - live fast die young thing..." I barely grasp the difference between a two strokes engine and a four strokes one but I subscribed all the same and I never fail to click the "like" button...I even go through the list of materials used and randomly click one or two links of the list to massage the algorithms (All this could seem a bit scrooge-esque but let's say I'm on a paleo diet: living in a sorta cave and eating old leftovers...) But I digress because your very sharp sense of humour always print a grin on my face and take my mind at the Bonneville salt flats. Thank you!
So very impressed by you can not imagine what you could do with access to state of the art equipment, The possibilities would be endless keep up the great work!
The Ignitech units we used on TZR/TZ 250 engines did not like revving high (13k+) but an apparent fix was to run the Ignitech with 16v instead of 12v. Keep up the great work!
Congrats on your 20hp. Now the real work begins getting above 20 and consistent. Our blown bike we have a good coil system & 14v battery to power it. 24psi fires small 8mm plug with huge fuel load as well. So one plug is all that is needed.
We used to make poor mans MLS type gaskets out of soda cans. Just cut up a coke can and make aluminum gaskets. I have had a 4 layer one on my 20psi downpipe for years and it never failed from heat.
need a plenum? rotary/roots type blowers cause massive pressure pulses. If the pulses dont time with the inlet timing or the volume between the blower discharge section is less than what is required in the cylinder+blowdown you could be seeing 12psi in the blower but not necessarily maximising the charge in the cylinder.. A more stable charge pressure may also be kinder to the reeds. you could simply test this by adding a volume/tank to where the dump-valve was - although it would become full of fuel/air mix.... also, i wonder if the high RPM blower is centrifuging the mixture back in to raw fuel/air you should consider port injection and this would allow much more scope. thanks for the video
Also to add - Thinking about the rotary valve, I would find it extremely interesting what would happen if you installed rotary valves with different sized windows. My thinking is if the rotary valve opening is just too large, you will only find adjustability on the opening edge or closing edge and time of the valve event may be too broad. Also this may lead to diminishing returns in exhaust pulse reflection.
I am still amazed by the number of possible variables that you are going through at the same time, looking for more power. Today you erased some of them for sure, fingers crossed. Your community really also provides awesome feedback/input! Pretty rare on YT! Keep up the good stuff Alex! Im wondering if your air intake might be restricting the airflow at that high RPM. Its propably not the current major variable but the intake duct design is very important for finding peak power even on supercharged engines. Maybe you optimize "mandatory standard variables" before progessing on finding your well deserved record power in a 50cc :)
I still think you should try running it on straight methanol for now, until you get it sorted out, to save a lot of money on fuel. I know I found Sunoco methanol for $4.07/gal where it's $5.89/gal for regular gas (87 octane) here in Northern California right now.. It's insane that methanol is cheaper than gas.. I know it's way cheaper than buying premix rc car fuel in small batches. The biggest problem you have in your ignition tuning (from what I've seen) is you are not advancing it in relation to RPM, as RPM goes up, it should be advanced more and more. Just changing your initial timing and flat lining it all the way through isn't helping, it's hurting your start up. That thing seems fine idling at 15-20 degrees but by 10k it should be ramped up to at least 40 if not 50.. again from my research I've done reading about nitro and methanol engines.
It's really hard to get straight methanol in the nordics (especially norway and sweden) due to regulations, you basically need to buy it off of people who use it at dragstrips or have the permits to mix nitromethane by themselves. Lowest nitro content you can find is typically 5%, but that's also with like 18% oil.
@@MetroidChild It's actually a lot easier to get now that a lot of ships are switching over to it as a "green" fuel. (how they say it's better when it burns your eyes & throat when it burns I have no clue but.. they do. Highest nitro content you can find legally in Norway is 15%. (I've done the research about it)
I saw an interview with Garlits talking about when they just got the 426 Hemi and it was flat at 38-40 degrees, so he took a chance at 60 degrees advance and it came alive.
U way beond the point, for me to make any sense of it anymore. So I just shut my mouth and be in awe about ur mastermind creation. I also love to go through the comments u guys here make. Makes the brain doing overtime trying to visualize all the proposed options. Keep them videos coming. Ps as mentioned before, that waistgate full with fuel is a timebomb so a good thing u got rid of it, if that shoots open ur whole garage would be one fireball. Simular thing happend to me when I was messing with gunpowder. I didnt had to go to the barber that month.
Loven it Still like to see one run with no rotary valve belt just wide open . Check some gp 2stroke combustion chambers out rs125,250 tz250 very coned the piston top also seats in outer part I've noticed not sure if only later models , which would yield volume then compression. Reading through comments it's all here with comments from shielding wires. V8 coil Methanol Gp head Ramped timing Reeds When all that's done concentrate on pipe length size. I believe it has 25hp in it at 13.5k
Encouraging results,will be interesting to see durability over a dynamic load simulating an entire run on the salt flats,with altitude correction. Crazy project,keep after it!
Hi Alex, amazing work and really enjoy what you are doing...food for thought. Back in the mod 90's, I was building and racing hydro boats with a South African guy who had us racing with small cc engines (50 -125cc). The engines had a belt driven intake and or belt driven exshaust. They ran on VP racing methonal and rpms were around 18k. They were water cooled by forced water through low unit. Maybe look into these engines for ideas and technologies. He shipped them over from South Africa, sorry but that's all I know of them but they had power enough to keep up with some large engines that were racing on the lakes in Michigan!!
Twin spark is fine. 4 plugs won't help. Feed it with two MSD coils. Experiment with serial spark or sequential spark. 80kv or 160kv. Use a bigger battery or two bigger batteries. Run 24 v. Make sure they are + 12.8v.
Should try blue Phoenix plasma ignition module! I use one on my generator and they work amazingly! They were designed originally for drag racing and would be worth a look at instead of adding more plugs, just an idea. Love the whole setup you got, been watching for awhile now and the progress you've made is amazing man! Keep it up, cheers!
It sounds so wicked, it's a credit to you, it's come a long way, from since I started following. I've suggested this before and here it is again, instead of a reed block, use a Tesla Valve, it would achieve the same results as reeds, but no moving parts at all, allows intake, but closes off flow, with reverse flow, you could machine them a man your talents, it might take a few prototypes, and if you could make the Tesla Valve work, you wouldn't have to worry about reeds again, particularly how hard your motor is working them.
Hei norrman! Just wanted to say you got a real interesting and quite nice taste of music, always enjoy your vids. It shows your having fun and man, the production value is damn nice too! I promise I'm not sweet talking you because I want to beef up my Peugeot Vivacity with your boost or something haha, but man I wish I had your workshop. I have so many ideas I would play with. Stay awesome, remember there's no corners on round houses! :) PS. Might make it easier for you if you made some sort of throttle like on lawnmowers, you know the uhh, what's the word... Trög? Well a throttle that stays where you put it so you can use your hands for other things while the engine is running and all that. PPS. Dual spark plugs! Double the spark, double the... Ignition I guess? Crazy I know but that would be interesting to see :D
This might be the best installment yet. The dyno seems to be consistent. The push-pull throttle is working really well. Nice long pulls up to 14,000 and long slightly rising horsepower readings. Seems like it needs more spark in the chamber. I’ll be interested to know what happened to the pressure. Looking forward to the next installment.
Still loving the progress here. The fractured exhaust in the HAZ could be a combination of incorrect initial welding, dissimilar materials / inappropriate welding media or weld process. But it is also going to be affected by high cycle fatigue, largely exacerbated by vibration and also heating / cooling cycles during the runs could be detrimental.
Alex i think the pressure leak came from the RC tank cap. That it's spring loaded, and it's connected to the pressure line. When pressure rise part of the pressure is lost from the RC tank. If you think, you started to have pressure drop after removing the dump valve. Hope to help out
You need more exhaust time so try widen the gap on the rotary valve. I got this idea of variable rotary valve. Three discs stacked and 1 and 3 the outer ones are the high range openings and the midle with a soft flat spring pushing is the low range valve. Idea is that the low range disc is pushed by inertia against the flat spring and it goes inside the outer discs opening the gap for full range which 1 and 3 have.
Seven horsepower per cubic inch! That's like a thousand cubic centimeter bike turning out four hundred and twenty horsepower (kinda, volumetric efficiency doesn't scale up linearly.) Never the less, that's amazing. If you get the reliability out of it, you should get the classes land speed record. BTW: Kart racers with similar engines get better results with Autolite or Denso plugs.
Love the eclectic mix of music in your videos. Great work. Im curious if someone can tell me what would happen if that dump valve were to open while filled with all that fuel? Seems like a possible scary situation in a garage
Another terrific video my friend I'm glad you're staying with your dream the building the most powerful two-stroke in the universe 50cc and remember always stay thirsty my friend
If the push pull printed parts start giving problems, you could change to a manual gear shift cable from a front wheel drive car. Anything with a cable shifter because these cables will do push forces over 130N no problem. The blower rotors might have scored or picked up a piece of debris, quite common at higher RPM. I think the Aisin blower has a max speed of 18000 RPM, however a back fire will suddenly increase the load on the lobes which will heat them up considerably which effectively lowers the safe running speed. Better sealing can be achieved by dripping a small amount of heavy oil into the intake while the blower is hot and running, it coats the rotors and fills and gaps, so the pressure ratio increases.
1: That chain is vibrating quite a bit at certain RPM. Maybe a small guide sprocket to keep it stable and tight would give you more stable RPM in your runs and smoother curves?
2: If you are unsure if rich/thin mix is holding you back, why not try to do some runs with the tank at different heights, just to explore what happens to the curves?
3: Since you got the same power with the belt shifted one notch ( ~13 deg), there's a possibility those two offsets are on either side of a peak; offsetting half (~6,5 deg) might give you the best compromise and a gain.
4: You absolutely need to make sure your spark is 100% performing, so that you can eliminate that variable as you try other stuff! Otherwise you are chasing your tail.
Chain tensioner isnt a bad idea. He could ground that pretty easy just plug something into single ground of outlet
Agreed on all points
An adjustable pulley on the rotary valve or crank along with a dead simple super powerful ignition system like an IGN-1a or Ls v8 smart coil would be ideal.
Agreed, Will probably need more of an ignition system when trying to burn that much fuel and pushing the boost/power like it is. However it is weird to suddenly develop the misfire
Who are you saying this too?
Let's be real this man is a genius.
Why not smoketest the engine? with the exhaust valve closed and carb removed you should be able to put pressure into the whole engine and detect leaks easy and quick.
Dude, killer idea.
Like a flow bench for an entire engine, yeah?
Dude.....
Could maybe even pulse some air through and maybe get a measurement of mass airflow
Dude
#FlowbenchtheNitro50
Lmao
It seals better with short bursts of higher pressure over short periods.
Am I the only one who hides behind my chair during every run 😱love the wideos.
I find my head going down between my shoulders as the rpm climbs :)
The dyno sessions ive been waiting too see ,longer runs combined with reliability of parts.. yes! Well done Alex..now comes comparisons and experiments
What a journey. Really starting to look good and we're getting down to the real science and not just chasing silly things.
I do like the idea of multiple /2 spark plugs , but I really think you need to achieve a "BIGGER FATTER" spark , I think you may be snuffing out the spark at the rate the fuel/air mix is getting stuffed into the chamber...
A plasma ignition , or a MSD car type Coil at 60000+ Volts output may help in flame propagation...
If you have noticed the American "TOP FUEL" rail dragsters are always snuffing out cylinders because of the extreme amounts of fuel being dumped in to the combustion chambers at high r.p.m...
I'm sure you will work out this little screamer Alex...
Keep going...
Go further than that top fuel spark plugs last about 1 second after that they are melted and the engine starts to diesel and some cylinders don't fire and still goes 330mph In 1000ft
My favorite you tube show .
same
As a former EMI compliance engineer I can safely say that seperating your instrumentation cables is wrong. Electromagnetic emissions and susceptibility are both proportional to the area between the cables. As long as they are individually shielded, they should be in one bundle with a means to keep them together. Seperating them can make the area increase many thousands of times and therefore make EMI problems much worse. It could be helpful also to wrap the bundle with foil and connect it to earth ground with your instrument ground.
Aluminum foil everything 😅 I've been in some sensitive science labs and we had to defeat the local radio station 😅
Separate the ones that arent + and - of the same signal.
Cross at 90 for different voltages if you have to cross at all.
Works like that in pro audio, +ve & - ve on 3-pin connectors with all 3 screened and the screen earthed.
I couldn't get a stable USB connection on my ignitech CDI when I would rev the bike on shielded spark wire. When I foil wrapped the spark wire and touched the foil to the head it would shield enough to keep the connection pretty stable. IMHO it may be easier to attack the source of the noise.
@@theshippingcontainergarage Do you know what his dyno is made of? Noise from a spark plug isn’t the only issue. His load is a massive electromagnet.
Great video as always!
Have you thought about building a prechamber ignition system? It would basically just be an adapter with a little prechamber that threads into your existing spark plug location. Your normal spark plug then goes into the adapter. There are research papers that show a big improvement in flame velocity as well as knocking ( if i remember correctly), which obviously means more power and better igniteability.
So you decided to bless us with a 21 minute video today? Thank you!
At 6:58 that whole pull put out a smile to my face as it increased! Love the set up now!
We dyno'd my brothers factory spec TZM-R 49cc 2 stroke @ 7.5 HP. At 1 bar it would probably only be around 15 so you are doing pretty darn good and probably will get even more!
Try iridium plugs and try indexing the the electrode with shims at various positions. You need a much higher power ignition system with bigger gap. No resistor iridium racing plug, solid conductor plug wire, huge 50kv+ coil and shield all the test leads with a good connection to earth. Drive a copper ground rod 2M into the earth. You might also try to scallop the combustion chamber to aid in mixing air and fuel, work great on jet skis....
Very good advice! I was thinking the same thing, now, saved me some texting.
100%
I mentioned the coned combination chambers off the gp 2st to Alex surely he's researched it.
Nice to see the dyno working properly now. Seems like the engine is now limited to around 20hp, without much difference from ignition or valve timing. More radical change is required. Try even more reduction for the supercharger. Maybe the sweet spot is now around 10000, after that the supercharger falls out of efficient area and starts to consume too much power. Since it revs that well, the blowdown is probably enough. Moving the same torque to 14000 or so - that would be even more nuts.
I think a Two stroke racing exhaust is better system, it is two stroke turbo engines use normal exhaust
I think the compressor is at its limit. Bigger compressor needed
Mire nitro required 50%And he should see some real gains and nitro loves timing
I just got a new TV and let me say, beyond appreciating your madness with this project, I really appreciate your commitment to cameras/filming and editing. It’a a pleasure to watch
Excellent work. Your progress is remarkable. G10 Phenolic Sheet may be a suitable choice for reeds. Its not affected by methanol, is readily available, machines/cuts easy and its cheap. I have used it for EVER as reed material in conventional 2 stroke applications and its always worked well for me.
Your content had grown so much in the past year!!! Really enjoying the hard work you’re putting into these videos. Just increased my patreon contribution because of it
This channel has come so far i remember when we were 3d printing stuffing for the motor now it's a full prototype
I think the ignition is the main hold up at the moment. You need a much more robust coil + plug combo than what that controller can offer.
Love the quality of your videos now days dude, super satisfying to watch 😁
Could an external MOSFET array be driven from the existing controller to run one or more larger coils in parallel?
19hp going from 10.5 to 15.5 thousand rpm is crazy numbers.
In theory you could make it function well on a super wide 3 speed gearbox all the way from stand still to 150km/h.
Absolute madness I say.
"It did the - live fast die young thing..." I barely grasp the difference between a two strokes engine and a four strokes one but I subscribed all the same and I never fail to click the "like" button...I even go through the list of materials used and randomly click one or two links of the list to massage the algorithms (All this could seem a bit scrooge-esque but let's say I'm on a paleo diet: living in a sorta cave and eating old leftovers...) But I digress because your very sharp sense of humour always print a grin on my face and take my mind at the Bonneville salt flats. Thank you!
So sweet, if you go to Bonneville this year I'll come out just to see it all in person!
So very impressed by you can not imagine what you could do with access to state of the art equipment, The possibilities would be endless keep up the great work!
had to post that. 23 secconds off notification. love your content been watching from the start very interesting
The Ignitech units we used on TZR/TZ 250 engines did not like revving high (13k+) but an apparent fix was to run the Ignitech with 16v instead of 12v. Keep up the great work!
👍 Running 16v.
The dyno setup is really starting to look polished now!
I'm so Glad you made this Engine...
The way your mind works is amazing...
Keep going...!!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Congrats on your 20hp. Now the real work begins getting above 20 and consistent.
Our blown bike we have a good coil system & 14v battery to power it. 24psi fires small 8mm plug with huge fuel load as well. So one plug is all that is needed.
We used to make poor mans MLS type gaskets out of soda cans. Just cut up a coke can and make aluminum gaskets. I have had a 4 layer one on my 20psi downpipe for years and it never failed from heat.
Another awesome update.
We would love to build a streamliner frame around your power and have ready access to Bonneville…
This motor changes more often than my gilfriend does her opinion🥶
🤣 GOLD!
Agree with you totally. It’s all part of the R&D. Figuring it out bit by bit. Well done Sir! 💪🏼
Thanks for bringing us along on this amazing journey. This is really good stuff...
The win now is that you have dyno readings where conclusions can be made of, that's a major step in the quest for more power.
literally my favorite channel
Finally you remove dump valve.Next will be reeds.
Yes, if possible. It would be lovely to lose the restriction of the reed valves, but, he’s gotta close the front door somehow.
Your cinematography is on point with the best of them. Keep up the awesome content!
need a plenum?
rotary/roots type blowers cause massive pressure pulses. If the pulses dont time with the inlet timing or the volume between the blower discharge section is less than what is required in the cylinder+blowdown you could be seeing 12psi in the blower but not necessarily maximising the charge in the cylinder..
A more stable charge pressure may also be kinder to the reeds.
you could simply test this by adding a volume/tank to where the dump-valve was - although it would become full of fuel/air mix....
also, i wonder if the high RPM blower is centrifuging the mixture back in to raw fuel/air
you should consider port injection and this would allow much more scope.
thanks for the video
Good call that all makes sense.
Also to add - Thinking about the rotary valve, I would find it extremely interesting what would happen if you installed rotary valves with different sized windows. My thinking is if the rotary valve opening is just too large, you will only find adjustability on the opening edge or closing edge and time of the valve event may be too broad. Also this may lead to diminishing returns in exhaust pulse reflection.
Keep it up! Been there from the start and it's so captivating! Thanks Alex.
Rotary valve instead of reeds on admision
Yep been trying to tell Alex for months, remove rotary valve. To give it a chance to suck .
Agree def need reeds
@@paddy2661 Literally the opposite of what MAIN RIG said.
The filming of this video was really good the color came through just right
I am still amazed by the number of possible variables that you are going through at the same time, looking for more power. Today you erased some of them for sure, fingers crossed. Your community really also provides awesome feedback/input! Pretty rare on YT! Keep up the good stuff Alex!
Im wondering if your air intake might be restricting the airflow at that high RPM. Its propably not the current major variable but the intake duct design is very important for finding peak power even on supercharged engines.
Maybe you optimize "mandatory standard variables" before progessing on finding your well deserved record power in a 50cc :)
The dyno is looking great! Really happy to be a part of your journey :)
Don’t know enough too wrap my head around two strokes but I’m loving the content mate ✌️🇬🇧
I still think you should try running it on straight methanol for now, until you get it sorted out, to save a lot of money on fuel. I know I found Sunoco methanol for $4.07/gal where it's $5.89/gal for regular gas (87 octane) here in Northern California right now.. It's insane that methanol is cheaper than gas.. I know it's way cheaper than buying premix rc car fuel in small batches. The biggest problem you have in your ignition tuning (from what I've seen) is you are not advancing it in relation to RPM, as RPM goes up, it should be advanced more and more. Just changing your initial timing and flat lining it all the way through isn't helping, it's hurting your start up. That thing seems fine idling at 15-20 degrees but by 10k it should be ramped up to at least 40 if not 50.. again from my research I've done reading about nitro and methanol engines.
It's really hard to get straight methanol in the nordics (especially norway and sweden) due to regulations, you basically need to buy it off of people who use it at dragstrips or have the permits to mix nitromethane by themselves.
Lowest nitro content you can find is typically 5%, but that's also with like 18% oil.
@@MetroidChild It's actually a lot easier to get now that a lot of ships are switching over to it as a "green" fuel. (how they say it's better when it burns your eyes & throat when it burns I have no clue but.. they do. Highest nitro content you can find legally in Norway is 15%. (I've done the research about it)
I saw an interview with Garlits talking about when they just got the 426 Hemi and it was flat at 38-40 degrees, so he took a chance at 60 degrees advance and it came alive.
Hand throttle yes! About time dude. 👍
Most interesting channel on u tube.
U way beond the point, for me to make any sense of it anymore. So I just shut my mouth and be in awe about ur mastermind creation. I also love to go through the comments u guys here make. Makes the brain doing overtime trying to visualize all the proposed options. Keep them videos coming. Ps as mentioned before, that waistgate full with fuel is a timebomb so a good thing u got rid of it, if that shoots open ur whole garage would be one fireball. Simular thing happend to me when I was messing with gunpowder. I didnt had to go to the barber that month.
I say this often but I mean it each time I say it......great work and don't get discouraged!!!!!
Super happy for you keep it up its getting Exciting
We wait for your videos every week
I came for the aspect ratios, but I stayed for the shot framing.
Yesssssss dyno numbers goood runs and booost! Finally it's all coming together!
Your diligence is paying off , its a lot more consistent then it was , Small changes are making big progress 👍
Loven it
Still like to see one run with no rotary valve belt just wide open .
Check some gp 2stroke combustion chambers out rs125,250 tz250 very coned the piston top also seats in outer part I've noticed not sure if only later models , which would yield volume then compression.
Reading through comments it's all here with comments from shielding wires.
V8 coil
Methanol
Gp head
Ramped timing
Reeds
When all that's done concentrate on pipe length size.
I believe it has 25hp in it at 13.5k
love you. love your channel. never stop doing what you are doing.
What a bloody ripper!!! Just to hear it running after the mods "Priceless"
Cough Cough!! Extraction needed 👍🍻🇦🇺
Encouraging results,will be interesting to see durability over a dynamic load simulating an entire run on the salt flats,with altitude correction. Crazy project,keep after it!
Hi Alex, amazing work and really enjoy what you are doing...food for thought. Back in the mod 90's, I was building and racing hydro boats with a South African guy who had us racing with small cc engines (50 -125cc). The engines had a belt driven intake and or belt driven exshaust. They ran on VP racing methonal and rpms were around 18k. They were water cooled by forced water through low unit. Maybe look into these engines for ideas and technologies.
He shipped them over from South Africa, sorry but that's all I know of them but they had power enough to keep up with some large engines that were racing on the lakes in Michigan!!
I have no ideas for you unfortunately... but you my friend are an innovator. Keep on trucking!!!
Yes
Build break fix is a good channel he does 2stroke motors too and other cool stuff love it keep the DREAM aLiVE man!!!
Advance or Fail, your shit is gold. Your work is amazing.
Your production quality is outstanding!
There was indeed a lot of win in this one, the funk looks a lot better and no more stalling.
Love your work but thank you so much for the throttle setup
A proper hand throttle... Thank you
This is good stuff, more sensors would be handy , temp and pressure would answer all your questions . Love your work.
Twin spark is fine. 4 plugs won't help. Feed it with two MSD coils. Experiment with serial spark or sequential spark. 80kv or 160kv. Use a bigger battery or two bigger batteries. Run 24 v. Make sure they are + 12.8v.
Should try blue Phoenix plasma ignition module! I use one on my generator and they work amazingly! They were designed originally for drag racing and would be worth a look at instead of adding more plugs, just an idea. Love the whole setup you got, been watching for awhile now and the progress you've made is amazing man! Keep it up, cheers!
The stuff you are doing is just awesome!!
I was the one suggesting mulitple spark plugs and more complex 4 stroke head chamber design 🥳🥳🥳.
Love the aspect ratio. Fits my ultrawide PC screen perfectly. So I can watch 2STROKE STUFFING W I D E B O I S T Y L E
Greatest shot title ever - "I also cleaned up the wiring" - HAHAH
It sounds so wicked, it's a credit to you, it's come a long way, from since I started following.
I've suggested this before and here it is again, instead of a reed block, use a Tesla Valve, it would achieve the same results as reeds, but no moving parts at all, allows intake, but closes off flow, with reverse flow, you could machine them a man your talents, it might take a few prototypes, and if you could make the Tesla Valve work, you wouldn't have to worry about reeds again, particularly how hard your motor is working them.
Hei norrman! Just wanted to say you got a real interesting and quite nice taste of music, always enjoy your vids. It shows your having fun and man, the production value is damn nice too! I promise I'm not sweet talking you because I want to beef up my Peugeot Vivacity with your boost or something haha, but man I wish I had your workshop. I have so many ideas I would play with.
Stay awesome, remember there's no corners on round houses! :)
PS. Might make it easier for you if you made some sort of throttle like on lawnmowers, you know the uhh, what's the word... Trög? Well a throttle that stays where you put it so you can use your hands for other things while the engine is running and all that.
PPS. Dual spark plugs! Double the spark, double the... Ignition I guess? Crazy I know but that would be interesting to see :D
You are getting closer!
This might be the best installment yet. The dyno seems to be consistent. The push-pull throttle is working really well. Nice long pulls up to 14,000 and long slightly rising horsepower readings. Seems like it needs more spark in the chamber. I’ll be interested to know what happened to the pressure. Looking forward to the next installment.
Finally, some scienty dynoing. One parameter at the time, working dyno, with repetable results. This will work.
Excellent video. I check your channel frequently to see how you are progressibg.
i cant wait for next video
Good consistent progress today.
Fuel is rich.
There's a secret, that only a few Engine Builders know. You have reached that tipping point now.
;)
Still loving the progress here.
The fractured exhaust in the HAZ could be a combination of incorrect initial welding, dissimilar materials / inappropriate welding media or weld process. But it is also going to be affected by high cycle fatigue, largely exacerbated by vibration and also heating / cooling cycles during the runs could be detrimental.
5K resistor cap is GOOD for the spark duration and quality. Need more secondary voltage.
Love your stuff and your production quality is really increasing.
❤️
When the RPM hit 15k I sat up. Great video.
Alex i think the pressure leak came from the RC tank cap. That it's spring loaded, and it's connected to the pressure line. When pressure rise part of the pressure is lost from the RC tank. If you think, you started to have pressure drop after removing the dump valve. Hope to help out
Great music!
Dope changes. Cut some holes in your chain guard!
You need more exhaust time so try widen the gap on the rotary valve. I got this idea of variable rotary valve. Three discs stacked and 1 and 3 the outer ones are the high range openings and the midle with a soft flat spring pushing is the low range valve. Idea is that the low range disc is pushed by inertia against the flat spring and it goes inside the outer discs opening the gap for full range which 1 and 3 have.
Seven horsepower per cubic inch! That's like a thousand cubic centimeter bike turning out four hundred and twenty horsepower (kinda, volumetric efficiency doesn't scale up linearly.) Never the less, that's amazing. If you get the reliability out of it, you should get the classes land speed record. BTW: Kart racers with similar engines get better results with Autolite or Denso plugs.
Top job Can remember hearing you tell More revs don't always mean more horsepower 🏇 low lift length stretch.
Love the eclectic mix of music in your videos. Great work.
Im curious if someone can tell me what would happen if that dump valve were to open while filled with all that fuel? Seems like a possible scary situation in a garage
Another terrific video my friend I'm glad you're staying with your dream the building the most powerful two-stroke in the universe 50cc and remember always stay thirsty my friend
If the push pull printed parts start giving problems, you could change to a manual gear shift cable from a front wheel drive car. Anything with a cable shifter because these cables will do push forces over 130N no problem. The blower rotors might have scored or picked up a piece of debris, quite common at higher RPM. I think the Aisin blower has a max speed of 18000 RPM, however a back fire will suddenly increase the load on the lobes which will heat them up considerably which effectively lowers the safe running speed. Better sealing can be achieved by dripping a small amount of heavy oil into the intake while the blower is hot and running, it coats the rotors and fills and gaps, so the pressure ratio increases.
Loving the progress!! Can't wait for the next video ^_^
ROCK ON !!