Hi! Just wanted to say thanks to your channel and your videos! They've helped alot. I wanted to also offer some advice on the drilling. The bits you used to drill the holes are mainly used for metal. On wood you should opt to use something like black oxide bits, or even better since you may be looking for holes with better finishes, use a paddle/spade bit set.
Cool. Luckily I have a 3D printer so I was able to design and print a couple plastic plates that I put on thingiverse and also crazy glued and hot glued it. I just taped the wire down with electrical tape so it wouldn't move around. I got everything running off of a battery bank that I velcroed it to the back.
You can use the original USB port just by clipping the 4pin head off the end of the wire that goes to the main PCB and soldering the USB-A end of any USB cable onto it. The A1Up USB PCB is labeled for Power, Ground, Data (+) and Data (-), which will match a decent USB cable wire color coding of Red (Power), Black (Ground), Green (D+), White (D-). If the coloring of the wires you have doesn't match - power and ground will be colored in an obvious way and data +/- can be reversed without damaging anything to test and flip/flopped if your guess is wrong (device won't be detected if data lines are backwards). If you intend your Pi4 install to be permanent, you can skip the USB-A cable end all together and solder the 4 wires from the USB PCB directly to the USB pins on the underside of the Pi4 - making sure to tape off the USB port you tapped into so you don't forget and try plugging a second device directly into that same port on the Pi.
You're absolutely right, reached out to someone who recommended something very similar to what you're saying but given the fact that this wasn't considered a permanent installation at the time I went with a quickly removable route. Thanks for sharing the information here for any viewers comfortable with a soldering!
Hi! Just wanted to say thanks to your channel and your videos! They've helped alot.
I wanted to also offer some advice on the drilling. The bits you used to drill the holes are mainly used for metal. On wood you should opt to use something like black oxide bits, or even better since you may be looking for holes with better finishes, use a paddle/spade bit set.
Thanks for the advice! I would normally use my Spade or oxide stepper bits but I didn't have them at the time of this mod 😅
Cool. Luckily I have a 3D printer so I was able to design and print a couple plastic plates that I put on thingiverse and also crazy glued and hot glued it. I just taped the wire down with electrical tape so it wouldn't move around. I got everything running off of a battery bank that I velcroed it to the back.
Sound like a good excuse to get a 3D printer!
@@Xplosiv-Tech It's been a life saver!
You can use the original USB port just by clipping the 4pin head off the end of the wire that goes to the main PCB and soldering the USB-A end of any USB cable onto it. The A1Up USB PCB is labeled for Power, Ground, Data (+) and Data (-), which will match a decent USB cable wire color coding of Red (Power), Black (Ground), Green (D+), White (D-). If the coloring of the wires you have doesn't match - power and ground will be colored in an obvious way and data +/- can be reversed without damaging anything to test and flip/flopped if your guess is wrong (device won't be detected if data lines are backwards). If you intend your Pi4 install to be permanent, you can skip the USB-A cable end all together and solder the 4 wires from the USB PCB directly to the USB pins on the underside of the Pi4 - making sure to tape off the USB port you tapped into so you don't forget and try plugging a second device directly into that same port on the Pi.
You're absolutely right, reached out to someone who recommended something very similar to what you're saying but given the fact that this wasn't considered a permanent installation at the time I went with a quickly removable route. Thanks for sharing the information here for any viewers comfortable with a soldering!