Mazda 3 04-13 rear engine mount/torque strut removal and replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- This video applies to all models of 2004-2013 Mazda 3. Part numbers may vary depending on year/engine size but the job is virtually the same.
Tools required:
14 and 17mm sockets
wrench
breaker bar - optional
drill/impact wrench - optional
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Just wrapped up doing all the engine mounts of my 2010 3, and your video helps immensely. Thank you for taking the time to show us the details. Had a few hiccups but eventually got it dialed in. Driving like a brand new car.
Did you have to replace the driver side engine mount? I have a 2010 Mazda 3
@@speedracer175 typically you want to replace all your engine/transmission mounts when one of them goes bad. The mount you're referring to is the Transmission mount iirc, that's the only one I know of that's on the driver side. The other engine mount is on the passenger side next to the coolant reservoir.
@@speedracer175 yeah mine was toast, I could tell after doing the passenger side and bottom because the sound was still there. It was honestly super single and kind of fun, just make sure you're on level ground or the trans can shift and it's a paint to get the studs to line back up right.
What's the difference if any between the automatic/ and manual transmission motor mounts, I have manual with the 2.3
Really good video thankyou
Im going to do this. I just brought these parts and the tranny mount on top. Here it goes,
Why did you buy the tranny mount too?
@Speed Racer yes it was totally broken too.
very good job....
Thank you so much. It was easy to do . Followed you step by step. And done. Is it recommended to put blue lock on the screws. I just tighten them up. Thx alot
What's the torque spec on the torque strut and engine mount?
Sorry, can you explain to me? Did you screw at 60lbs with the hidraulyc jack? Did you remove it?
You can torque it with or without the jack, doesn’t matter since it’s not weight bearing.
Hey remember to use your jack stands
....when you are unable to use ramps.
(In this video the poster used ramps and chocked the rear wheels.)
All the work done on same car? picture at :23 seconds doesn't seem to match the picture at 1:40
Nice job, Thank you for sharing this video....did you feel the difference?
Is there a 19mm nut on the other side of the first 17mm bolt?
There’s a nut but it’s welded to the mount
@@416diy Appreciate it brother.
@@416diy Should I put a jack and a block of wood under the oil pan or to the right of the transmission bracket for the mount or both?
Honestly, the wood is unnecessary, that was me being overkill. Once you’ve taken out the first bolt you can easily rock the engine back and forth to reconnect the 2 mount pieces. If your are going to use the wood anyway, put it wherever it’s least in your way.
Do you mind if I can get your email adress? I have a 2010 mazda 3 S hatchback that has this same issue but the bracket on my transmission that mates to the other piece mounted to the frame of the car looks different than yours. I would like to send you pictures to see if my cars transmission bracket was replaced with the wrong mount by the previous owner of my car. Thank you
You got a manual trans? Auto in the vid probably. I have the same problem lmao
@@wyzard3211 you should not have a problem at all just follow the steps. Bought mine on Amazon or you can go with Wal-Mart.
@@wyzard3211 Just did this. Mine is 2004 manual. All the ones I can find are automatics. Just use the same support bracket (super chonky cast aluminum piece) and replace the actual mount. I know this is a year old, but someone else will probably find it helpful.
any difference?
Nice job bud
You need underbody wash