STARTING THE COOSA TRANSOM ON THE BERTRAM 25!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ม.ค. 2021
- Expanding this transom core with the Coosa is definitely going to be a challenge, hopefully I was able to explain it coherently :-) Going to sleep on it over the weekend and hopefully a fresh look will help to come up with something. If you have any suggestions please let me know ;-)!!
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I wish I could sit down with you for just an hour to hear all your insights on the craft and knowledge. Thank you for being so informative.
Thanks Andy for the incite, I’ve spent many years in the cabinet shops. I am planning on starting some of my own fiberglass projects, you are the Norm Abrams of the boat work.
Awesom !
Never mind for millimeters, those among us who are fluent enough in English are trained for imperial system too.
Hi Andy. Finally rebuilding the transom. Lot of hard work getting there, it will be bulletproof when you finish. Great video thanks 😊
Great to see another video. Keep it up brother, I’ve learned a lot watching your channel 💯
Andy, thank you for all of your videos. I have seen hours of them and have learned and used a tremendous amount of the knowledge you've passed along to all of us. Again THANKS
Ah fantastic! Love to see the Moppie coming back together!
Impressive dust management on that router... and the work in general too.. 🙂👍
I always enjoy your videos. Learning so much. Thank you
Thanks Andy! Exactly what I came here for, Some pro fiberglass tips! I wanted to know what blade to get for my multitool for some fiberglass work and watching the last 3 videos it's pretty clear! I'll be clicking your link and ordering a carbine blade!
Awesome project Andy,
Great vid mate, again, very good stuff. Cant wait for that transom to get finished.
Sweet, makin' progress!!
Yeah, just what I wanted to watch. Twin OB’s on an Armstrong Bracket is my next project, after this one. Thanks, Billy
Looking great!
I'm enjoying the sound track as i watch your informative and entertaining videos. Will you share the playlist?
I enjoy your videos Andy. You, Jimmy Diresta and Mr. Chickadee lead the pack by a wide margin.
Like watching and learning.
Great episode
Hi I have seen a lot of other videos and nobody does it like this you do it correct . Others jus fill in holes / cut outs with plywood and chop strand mat with no structural reinforcement hulls with i/o or inboard's were never designed to hold all of cantered power and weight when you calculate the forces you will be shocked at the numbers That is why all out board transom's fail (NO STRUCTURE) just make it look good for a few years.
Strongest Bertram transom in the world!
Great progress.
Keep chipping away.🙂
Thank you.
How did the kitchen come out?
That's some nice guitar playing. Video is swell too.
Great video! again! Thanks !
Love the show thanks
Great video. I'm thinking of using the Coosa on my foredeck. Just out of interest, how thick is the outer fibreglass skin on the transom? I'm not really a fan of coring under the waterline.
Like how you work there is never any mess also your work you like a attest everything is done right there would be alot of people who would of cut corners with those low spots it would be any you cant see them lol great job do you do like interior credits in the past I've got to line the roof in my fiberglass canal cruiser been looking for ideas on internet with not alot of look maybe you could point me in a direction
Hi Andy! I realize this video is three years old but I still have one question. I have never done a transom, but I’ve watched most of your videos. On the second layer of half inch coosa board i’m curious why you didn’t cut it like 4 inches taller to just fit in that groove or gap of the transom? Seems like it would’ve been stronger because it would be adhering to the larger 4 inch section of the boat.
Love the videos. Thanks for making them.
If college professors were as interesting as you, everyone would graduate :)
First of all thank you for all that you do here on TH-cam. I reference, and refer your videos all the time.
I'm curious, how strong that material is?
Is Strong enough for bulkheads? I'm guessing that its somewhere in between marine plywood and g-11.
Thank you for video
How well does resin bond to your totalfair product? It seems you used the fairing to build up the back to give the coosa a uniform bond, but that logic implies that the fairing gives you a strong bond from between the coosa and the glass. I normally consider fairing 'finishing' product, and havent really thought of using it like this. hope that wasn't a dumb question :) Very awesome vid by the way!
Funny to see that you´re thinking about the size in millimeters, pretty hard for us european to check your system in measurements. But also pretty nice to see work. greatings from germany ;-)
Ps.: would love to see you building kind of a swimplatform
Hey Andy, love your videos, cool to see a pro in action and someone sharing knowledge so the unfortunate or passionate can DIY without sabotaging too much. I know you're very busy but would try to pick your brains on a repair I need to do. I purchase new old boat and didn't see the 2 insulated under deck fish boxes have gelcoat massive cracks, very thick gelcoat has de-laminated from resin and is peeling off. Boat is very solid (2006 Mckee freedom 24) and this is the only place where there is any issue. I am thinking the fish boxes had water in them during winter freeze otherwise I can't understand how this has happened. To the point, my plan to fix this is to pry and grind every peeling cracked gelcoat off, fair with putty, grind and smooth then paint with Bi-component polyurethane. What is your take on this? Many thanks in advance. PS: any knowledgeable reader's opinion welcome.
Hi Andy love your video and your work Andy what is the purpose of this fix
Epoxy etc will stick ok to the coosa without it being roughed up? Does it absorb water?
Add 1/2" on each side and top of patch to get even with thick existing parts at 2 & 10 o'clock?
Great Video. I've got a question for you.I bought a 18' bilge keel sailboat .the keel has stress cracked and I want to sand down to fiberglass and lay a layer of 1708 fiberglass .The piece would be 20"x 40" on both side of both keels.Is 1708 the right material or should I use Matt.Some people are saying Matt and some 1708.
You mentioned there is core in the upper part of the transom. Will you be bonding Coosa on top of it? Why not take all the core out? Thanks.
If it’s not broken why fix it?. I’m pretty sure there will be a several layers of mat over the whole area when done.
Hey Andy I got a question sir I’m about to install my Coosa in my transom I got a couple gouges in the glass should I fill those thicken epoxy before I install the Coosa
Any thoughts or interest in doing a project on a bayliner from the 80s say a 2655 and extending the transom aft far enough to convert to v drives say twin yanmar diesels or two gas’s 4 cylinder engines. Really love your videos and would love. to see something of that sort. would definitely subscribe to that!!! Keep up the incredible content!!
Can you not get 2x3 inch cusa blocks in 1/2 and 1inch and patchwork the center of the core material then have several 1/2 inch cusa boards over the top there for giving you the ability to use thinner or thicker blocks where needed. Or is that a stupid idea?
Hey Andy. Just curious if you have ever or have any idea of how coosa and fiberglass would react to a power planet with a carbide blade? (Besides probably making a lot of dust)
Andy would it not be easier to fair out the whole area and sand it back to till you hit glass in one place [low spot], then repeat till you didnt hit glass? In car body work "spot" filling usually leads to low spots all around the spot so by fill/remove you avoid it. So in other words, when you did the key holes, if you did the whole panel instead, you wont have to come back and re-do it again. Just an observation that might make thing easier.....
Consider using 1in and add 1/2in to the top section.
Hi Andy, sorry I'm confused, why would you do the 1/2 inch coosa the exact size of the 1 inch? I thought you would overlap where you can?
Grind the corners down to the same thickness as the other areas? You're building it back up anyway.
What type of router bits are you using? Have ruined many bits and blades on coosa and glass. As far as clamping the boards together temporary, I just use screws and fill the holes in.
Brand or type? He said in the video it is a carbide, spiral bit with guide bearings. Brand he didn’t mention. But spiral bits are expensive.
Probably, at the top, where is not so easy the solution to the difference in thickness, you dont need to do anything, the platform/bracket is installed lower than that level, the pull down forces rom the weight of the platform and motors won't be so great, like the push forcers from the motors. So you might be fine doing the bottom, from that difficult area down. Good luck with any solution you come up with
Why fair the inside of a bond instead of using thickened epoxy? I understand that a flat surface is definitely preferred to bond to coosa, however, I thought that thickened epoxy, thickened to maybe a mayonnaise thickness might do just as well as fairing/sanding flat. Am I wrong on this?
Always prep your work to a standard of un-thickened epoxy- in other words it has to be fair to within 10 mils or less (my standard). Then when you are mating them up at gluing, use thickened epoxy on one face and regular on the other so you are sure you don't have a resin starved joint.
It would if you numbered your videos so a person could follow each of the sequences on projects you are doing.
What's the compression strength of those Coosa boards?
i use coosa a lot an it’s almost as itchy if not more than fiberglass dust
You better have a boat for your family this summer :-(
Good morning! I know you're doing the transom with the Coosa and it seems to be quite strong. but why would there be a reason to make a transom 3" thick with an Armstrong type engine mount? I've been watching the Bertram overhaul since the beginning and can't figure out why 3"s. Thanks for the very informative videos!! They are SUPER helpful. Thanks again!
Armstrong recommends 2.5"-3" transom thickness for their brackets that are built for large singes or twins.
Leslie, I was wondering the exact same question. I'd like to know the answer also. :)
Can you use the Coosa to build a bow pulpit?
What is the guitar music? I have heard this same music on 3 different TH-cam channels. Must be something to do with copyright?
Hi Andy and all boat lovers. Does anyone used Duratec Clear Hi-Gloss Gel Coat Additive , I'm planning to respay the bottom on original gelcoat, I'm going to use 3m system with size of 2nosel ,does it make it easy to spray ? get easier to get gloss ? for spraing is it 50% or 15% ratio? I have some expirience in autobody spray but not in gelcoat, Thank you Andy for your hard work, blessings to everyone.
Duratec is great stuff ive done my whole boat inside and out ive got a 1997 proline 18ft flats boat at a 1 to 1 ratio mix it makes it spray like paint with a 2.0 tip on the 3m hgp spray gun makes for much less sanding and it polishes to a very good shine
I realize that Total Fair will be much easier to sand down into a flat surface, but how structural is the product. Since you're trying to get a good stick between the Coosa and existing transom, why did you choose to use a relatively soft fairing compound rather than thickened epoxy which, while more difficult to work with, gives a hard strong bond?
I was thinking the same thing, I would have put on some fiberglass with a plastic sheet on top and applying a board to get close to a flat surface
It doesnt need to be structural. He is simply using it to make a flat bond between the actual STRUCTURAL MATERIAL.
It is pretty damn structural. It is by no means laminate or even marine-tex, but it is the strongest fairing compound I have used.
Same thought here. I would never use ferring compound in the middle of a bond area. It would be like having an forend object in there.
It doesn't matter as long as it is at least as strong as the Coosa. Remember Coosa is a lightweight board so it isn't massively strong. The majority of the strength of the structure comes from the fiberglass either side, not the Coosa.
are you sure the gap wasn't smaller in the middle because the coosa wasn't drawn up tight against the transom in the middle?
Love the vids Andy, but I & almost every viewer(we met in a super secret forum), we want to see the fightin lady splitting some whitecaps!!! 8D ⛵ like if u guys agree!
Have you named it yet? Spirited Lady might "ring" a bell... not to be confused with "sophisticated lady" though guys.. who's with me? x.O
Having pointed it out, I think I would trim that top lip and then overlap with the next piece to fill the above gap(trimming board where needed), maybe even make another complete layer to fill entirely between the two corners to make stern interior completely plumb & flat(ish), maybe a break in the middle for the last layer to accommodate the radius..
Great videos! If you want to make a video that nobody has made but there is high demand on the message boards....open a closed bow :)
Hi would like to see you set up a
Andy why 3" thick?
Quote from the owner of Armstrong Brackets online article...
“The key ingredient: a solid transom in good condition with a minimum thickness of 2-1/2 inches, he says. “If these parameters are met, then anyone should be able to install the bracket and the entire unit is bolt-on,” Sedlack says.”
I expected the filler to be thickened epoxy and then a layer of glass, then coosa. How can you get 3" of transom thickness with 1" and 1/2" coosa. This is a great problem for using PeelPly, as you can add layers of glass and apply Peel Ply and save a lot of sanding. You knowledge and video quality are great but I expected more progress.
Where are you located
Not going to be a fun fix to get those 2 spots to level up by 1/4 inch. ( about 6 millimetres )
Go with a piece of 3/4"
What happened to the right audio channel?
Willie Nelson's son, right?
Wooo first comment