Had a working 1906 Model 27-4, used only as a table for 13 years. Zero prior sewing knowledge. Nice demo and explanations to get me to first few stitches. Thanks v. much!! Will share with friends.
That's fantastic! I am so happy that you were able to accomplish that. I love working antiques, workmanship is so rare these days. I appreciate your great news.
You are very welcome. My first go to place to buy parts, and where I also bought online motors, along with replacement power cords. And tension assemblies www.vintagesingerparts.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwtNi0BhA1EiwAWZaANGj_w0fB8FLfCcMts4SA2yUQh2CFJkTmRziAilx3olDhGUosK1oSmxoCHRAQAvD_BwE This sewing machine was covered in Black gunk which is in reality oil. So I would first start by only soaking the silver parts in a rust remover, depending on how shiny it got I would use wet sandpaper, wet sandpaper without causing too much damage to the finish, then finally I would use Zymol which I found an article on the best way to clean sewing machine finishes and this was in it. And I swear by it now because it's the only thing I would use as a final cleaning wax and wax so it was gentle enough to gently use it to remove the old black oil from the finish without damaging decals. It's the only thing I recommend for cleaning the finish without ruining it. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009JKIRC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title And lastly if I couldn't find the parts new as a reproduction then I would look for a vintage machine or parts on eBay I've been known to buy a machine just for parts. Keep in mind I was refurbing sewing machines to finance my habit, I do collect machines I still have about 50. This one ironically I had bought just for the cabinet. The machine was in such bad condition I was going to throw it away. But it was my first machine and I thought you know since I was going to throw it away anyway I'm not going to worry about what I did to it because I wanted to make it as my test machine on how to repair machines. I'm extremely mechanically inclined so I went for it. Unexpectedly it turned out so gorgeous that I was able to sell the whole thing
You did a good job on this. And great you added the motor too. I’m late to the video. Helping a friend figure out his shuttle treadle. I have other vintage machines including a Singer red eye treadle but not a shuttle. Actually not used my red eye much, had old belt and it broke soon. I had trouble figuring out that knob also. Will be looking again.
Thank you for your kind words, I have repaired and refurbished about 80 machines and I must say they were all a labor of love. I really enjoyed it until my back injury was so bad that I had to stop. I had to watch videos on how to treadle. I now only have one treadle left in my collection. One of these days I should make a video on it. I do have a few other videos that may help you too. Enjoy
The stitches are beautiful. I like looking at this machine, even if it didn’t sew worth a darn. Thanks for the good explanation of how everything works.
Do you have one that isn't sewing well? The most important part is the upper tension assembly and the check spring. The more you understand how they work the better you can get them adjusted. The tension on the Bobbin is next and of course timing of the shuttle. It is easy to adjust, just make sure you understand how and when that shuttle crosses the needle so that the needle picks up the bobbin thread. I am sure there must be videos, I am mechanical so I figured it out. Hope you get yours working well.
I'm sorry I'm in the process of moving and all my machines are in storage at this point so no I wouldn't be able to do any more videos thank you for your interest.
My Minnesota A, is just like that as far as the shuttle and other things, my old needle broke and now I can't get one to work from a singer I'll keep messing with it love your videos.
The trick to knowing where to put the flat edge of the needle is it's always to the opposite way where you start threading so as an example front threading goes from front to back you put the flat edge at the back if it goes from left to right you put the back edge the flat edge on the right if it goes from right to left which is a very rare then it would go to the left. As all machines are different there's kind of like a little cheat where the last thread guide is before it goes through the needle tells you where you thread from the starting place. So as an example I think the 27 has the last thread guide on the left hand side and so it threads from left to right and flat edge is on the right.
If you're doing leather there really isn't anything better. I wouldn't trust most modern machines to do what this one can unless you have 5-10k to spend on a specialty leather sewing machine (cheaper ones won't hold up). I have one identical to this. Made in 1907. My grandmother died 14 years ago and left it to me, but it reminded my grandfather of her so I let him keep it until he passed last year. She spent a lot of time restoring it. I'm excited to get to fixing it after 14 years of non-use.
I have a really old one of this type of machine - about 1984 or 1895 - so not a 27 I don't think (?), but a VS with a bullet style shuttle and everything else seems to function the same. All the outside "bright" parts are rusted but everything inside still turns and moves. So like you I'm going to use it as a machine to learn on. (Unlike yours - the only sign of decals on mine is a kind of "raised shadow" in just a few places. As soon as you wipe it to try to get dirt off, nomatter how gently or softly, it just seems to wipe right off. SMO on it just seems to dissolve it to nothing instantly. So no harm in trying to make it sew again. How much worse can I make it, right? :-D To wit... Where did you find the new check spring? I can find them for later models but I haven't seen this one and yours looks good! My rusty tensioner can still be turned and release tension but the check spring seems to have lost its zest and is rusty as can be. When I pull the tensioner apart maybe I can help that with repositioning the spring, but I'm not at all sure I'll get the central stud out. Thanks so much for any suggestions from anyone.
I got it from Central Michigan Sewing Supplies. It is the same if your tension assembly looks the same. www.vintagesingerparts.com/ www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/singer-upper-thread-tension-spring-fits-models-27-127?_pos=9&_sid=18de2b375&_ss=r When it comes to finishes, you need to only use specific cleaners, I use Zymol or lighter fluid. Just be careful with lighter fluid it's combustible.
I’ve seen “antique” models where the back plate access cover is not a circle but a large panel with decal - any idea where these are from or how old they are?
They are very early models of this same machine. I have one it has the Dogwood decals, some believe hand painted, others don't. They are model 27 and Vibrating shuttle I and II. They are Singers. Mostly in the 1800's era. Here's a fiddle base 27 with the large cut out back with decals www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-ANTIQUE-1889-SINGER-MODEL-27-SEWING-MACHINE-FIDDLE-BASE-ELECT-MOTOR-CASE-/353334393983?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
@@dionnepray9821 very helpful - to be honest this is what I wanted to buy but I’ve been automatically rejecting anything I see with a motor. Is it easy to restore these to work with a treadle?
@@Isabel-of4wq yes!! Now here's some information. The oldest machines came in a cabinet that the machine didn't fold down, reason is there are no set screws at the hinge rod. So my dogwood is in a early drawing room cabinet that has a lift for the machine. You want to look for a large spoked balance wheel as that is what you spin towards you with your hand to start the machine for treadling. Watch treadling videos to understanding. The motors are easily removed and use the leather treadling belt instead of motors belt. It's a lot of exercise to treadle. Enjoy!
They work so good I would rather have one of these than a newer one But I work on all of THEM Which side does the flat edge go when you put in the needle on these?
I have a Jones CS Family from about 1895.It has a lot of built up gunk on some of the decals. What is the best method to clean them and not destroy the color on them. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Did I hear correctly that you cleaned it with sewing machine oil? If not, please let me know. I just acquired a 1903 what I believe to be a 27 due to IMACS (whatever its called). But it doesnt have that lovely push lever on the tension disk on the left. It does have the shovel access plate and the twin sliding plates next to the bobbin. Sphinx decals. Shiny (plain) face plate. Can you confirm that I have a 27 -4 and please let me know what you used to refurb these beauties? Mine is grimy to say the least and hasnt been used in a looong time.
When I bought the cabinet and machine the machine was in such bad condition and I was so new to working on sewing machines I knew nothing really about them even though I've been sewing since 7th grade but nobody ever teaches you how to work on them, nobody teaches you how to troubleshoot even what does a rat's nest or bird's nest on top of the fabric mean what does it mean if it's underneath the fabric. So I had every intention actually of just tossing the machine because it was just black It was gross, I had actually buy a special tool to pull the balance wheel off because it was so hardened on that even a sledgehammer would not remove it I had to use a puller which has four like fingers with the center screw that pushes through the middle and at the same time pulls the balance wheel out. So I thought this machine's in such bad condition it's not worth anything to me and I bought the treadle for my red eye. Unfortunately my red eye was never meant to be a treadle machine and how you know whether a machine was originally for treadle is it has the big balance wheel that you can grab and pull towards you as you start to peddle. If it has a pretty molding of the body around the balance wheel and kind of encloses the top of the balance wheel you know that's meant to be an electric machine. It's funny you know I did this video several years ago and that machine sold very quickly. Nowhere did I say I used oil to clean it, I watched it again because I thought there's no way I said that... I actually didn't tell you how I cleaned this I just said I took it all apart which I did I dismantled it from the balance wheel all the way. How I clean my machines because I didn't open it up so that you could see but the metal parts inside are shiny silver. The only cleaner that will bring all of the old oil varnish off is lighter fluid. So this is how I do it I take it outside and work outside it's the only place I do this because lighter fluid is very toxic and it's combustible. So what I do is I put down cardboard to soak up any excess lighter fluid very thick cardboard not just cheap cardboard I mean you know the heavy duty corrugated so it's got something to really soak it up. Once you scrub the heck out of it with toothbrushes and q-tips and metal brushes you do have to be a little bit careful if you're using a metal brush because the metal can actually start a spark with lighter fluid. So for the most part I use scrubbing brushes that you get like at home Depot that are about 2 in long and the bristles are probably an inch long and there wood handled with a black plastic bristles. And so I squirt the heck out of it and what's really nice about lighter fluid is it will also clean any finish without causing any damage. Where if you try any other cleaning solution whether it's alcohol alcohol never goes anywhere near my machines because it will ruin finishes and I was unfortunate to have a featherweight that happened with. So you don't want alcohol anywhere near your machines ever. A lot of people use kerosene, I'm not a fan. Kerosene will not remove the yellow golden varnish. You see when it comes to oil, varnish is oil-based and oil will turn into a varnish. It's kind of like tongue oil you know so old sewing machines when you open them up if they're not black they're usually gold metal and that's not the color of the metal that's actually old oil that has not been able to be successfully removed. If you use lighter fluid I guarantee you all the metal will turn back to silver, with that being said as soon as it gets clean you need to dab it down with the paper towel or a rag and then you need immediately oil it because it will actually lock up your machine because metal on metal without any lubrication whatsoever will stop movement. So you must oil it well immediately ask me how I know this can happen because that also did happen to me I had a machine that locked up but it's easier to get it moving because there is no oil freezing it it's just there's nothing lubricating it so you just oil the heck out of it. I only use clear sewing machine oil because you're working with fabrics. And you don't want filth. That's why I kind of don't understand all these sewing machine mechanics that don't use lighter fluid they only use kerosene and so that right away tells me it's not cleaned well if that's how they did it. There are a lot of people on Facebook in the sewing machine groups that just use oil, they say oh oil cleans oil does but not very well. Especially if you use some kind of additive oil, cuz I also know of people that use motor oil. Which motor oil has additives and the additives are there so that for people that don't change their oil regularly it helps to clean the engine. The problem is just using oil to clean a motor or a machine can actually cause the metal to break down. Well this was a long-winded reply and I hope it helps you.😅
@@dionnepray9821 you know Dionne, yours is the kind of response commenters like me dream of. Thank you very much. I've been ill, hence the long response time. As to you speaking / not speaking of what you did to get your machine looking so great, I must have been mixing up videos. However, I am glad I did, because now we have an excellent response on the web on "how to". I will be out today to go get lighter fluid (butane, really), and give it a go. I had kerosene ready to go, but your response told me that if I value genuine cleanliness, go for the butane. And so thats what I'll do. I will reply here with an update when I can get her in order - hope to engage you again. All the best to you - G. ps: the four fingered thingmagodie is called a bearing puller. Common in automotive settings, easily obtained at any harbour freight/ princess auto (usa/canada) or parts store.
@@LitoGeorgejust make sure that the lighter fluid is lighter fluid butane is different. I believe I'm not positive but I'm talking just the lighter fluid you know it's in the yellow and blue bottle. And it just squirts out it's not aerosol. Yes you're right it's called bearing puller. When you get to my age you start forgetting all the names for things lol. I'm glad you enjoyed my response and I'm glad you enjoyed my video. You know I've left all my videos up even though these machines have long been sold, because I think there is good information there for people that are perhaps starting out working with vintage and antique machines. And for after I've used lighter fluid on the finish of the machine and gently cleaning where the decals are then I only use Zymol for cleaning and waxing it's a cleaning wax. And so it really does it all in one step. I know a lot of people use turtle Wax but I prefer Zymol it's very effective but yet gentle to the decals. Feel free to check out my other videos because there's a nice variety of machines. I also did some training videos on a chain stitch machine which is a singer 114 w103. They are amazing for doing artwork, which is the only real use I have for sewing machines. Of course I do the odd project but I don't make clothing or any of that anymore. Just art.😊
You can’t do double needle, there was no such a thing as double needle sewing when that machine was designed, the reason for the double thread spindle is so you can wind a bobbing while sewing.
That extra thread spindle is stuck into a hole for oiling. It doesn't belong there. I just finished a restoration of one in its original cabinet and there's no pin there.
Thank you for your complement. I appreciate your feedback, this was the first machine I ever took apart, and since it was in such bad condition figured I couldn't hurt it. LOL, There isn't anything I can't fix if I put my mind to it, and it began my love of refurbishing sewing machines and cabinets and cases too. The first thing you have to do is clean the machine, get all the old oil that turns into varnish off the metal parts, and clean the outside too. I use lighter fluid, I find that it will remove the oil to bring it to silver tone again. You must do this outside, and not use any metal tools that could cause a spark, and it it highly combustible. I don't know if there are any videos on how to install the shuttle carrier, that really is important so that it moves freely and picks up the thread easily. The next important area is the upper tension. ON all machines that I work on I either dismantle it, and wet sand the disks so that there is nothing that would hinder the thread, and replace any parts that aren't in excellent condition. Thread tension is the number one issue with operators of sewing machines. If you get a nest it is always tension. Understanding tension and not being afraid to make adjustments. I hope you enjoy my videos, I try to give a bit of a lesson on the machines that I sell. Enjoy!!
I did not. When I looked at it I was intending on throwing it out because it looked beyond repair. So I figured I can't hurt it. Why not try to get it working. I was so surprised under the grime the decals were in great shape. And I did sell this machine. Thanks for asking.
you mention an led replacement bulb for the hot bulb in the replacement light sold online. can you post a link. I just got one and it's alarmingly hot.and yellow.
I buy all my led replacements at Amazon. If you take a picture of your light and the bulb I will be able to find the right one and send you a link for the bulb.
There is no way a "class 27" is capable of using a double needle. The throat plate only has room for one needle and the most important thing, the shuttle is not capable of picking up threads off a dual needle. You can have two top threads, but not double needle. Super nice decals on this machine you have and a perfect stitch. It is always great to see another one working and doing well. They are a bit tricky to get free motion on, but once you get used to it is ok. I have altered a 28 to do free motion and darning by using the feed dog cover, the stripper foot needle clamp and taking the entire presser bar out. These machines can almost do it all.
You are so right, not sure what I was thinking other than so many machines so little time. Ha ha. I think I corrected myself about that as another viewer mentioned it. I'm not taking it down though as I sold it long ago and it was my first rescue. Sorry for the inaccuracies about a 2nd needle. Merry Christmas and happy new year
@@dionnepray9821 I have had over 5 people direct me here on the dual needle subject. I wish one day to see a version of the chain stitch VS2/27 that i have only seen listed in the Smithsonian archives. lately i have been very interested in black Singer tins with the purple velvet in them. Would love to figure the rest of the Styles of attachment tins. I do hand out the PDF of the only available Style 12 attachments manual over on ISMACS digest. Myself and two other answer the pre 1900 Singer's there, keep updated serial number batch info, and current research.I am glad you are getting them and fixing them, i have seen an increase of art items being made out of them..including the 221 and 222. I wouldn't take this video down either, it is good. I have yet to hear a decent idea for dual spool pins or any original source documents on this subject. One of the best explanations is dual top thread , but also winding a bobbin and sewing at the same time as well. Doesn't explain dual pins on a hand crank with manual bobbin winder though lol. Thank you for helping so many with getting their machines going and getting even more interested in these machines and even antique sewing. Merry Christmas and a very happy New Year.
@@alibabafurball Thank you for your wonderful comment. Yes doesn't make sense for 2 spool pins other than if to save time one thread for winding bobbins. I just figure my videos can possibly help someone then I will continue to respond to my mistake. I have restored about 100 + machines of all different makes and models. I sold over half to pay for this err obsession. 😆 🤣
@LitoGeorge I don't blame you I hate Facebook but there's just so many good resources there I can't seem to break away. No I still own that one I kept it that was for my personal pleasure. You see I sold machines to pay for my habit of buying machines for my collection I have about 50 machines three industrials and the rest are household machines. I do have some really spectacular in my collection some original and some that I have completely redone. I also like to refinish cases and cabinets.
I have a 1902 model 27 that I'm trying to find a motor that will fit it as it dosen't have a place to screw in on the back😔 however on the side there is 2 places for screws to fit.
The motor is mounted on a bracket that curves around the machine and screws into the big hole that has two metal rows. Which that receiving end is called a boss, and this comes with standard mounting bolt. Here's a good one on ebay www.ebay.com/itm/Alphasew-Domestic-L-Bracket-Sewing-Machine-Motor-110-Volt-90W-7000RPM-/163698874566?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
Then you need the power with foot pedal and the best to buy is like this one with an electronic foot pedal. You can also plug a light in, and the plug is labeled for which plugs in where. www.ebay.com/itm/NGOSEW-UNIVERSAL-SEWING-MACHINE-FOOT-CONTROL-PEDAL-W-LIGHT-MOTOR-BLOCK-FC-143-/322513854627?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
I have over 50 machines, and when I made this video, I just couldn't remember off top of my head. It was sold to one of my customers long ago. Thank you for your post 📫
Look for people selling restored machines and ask them if they would do your machine. Either that or do it yourself. Lots of videos on TH-cam of taking machines apart and cleaning. Also a few Facebook groups that can help. I taught myself. You can find parts on Ebay. Good luck.
The machine runs exactly the same. Except I would be powering it instead of the motor. If you want to buy this machine when you come and pick it up I can show you how to remove the rubber belt from the motor, and place the leather belt on it and go.
You know I didn't recommend you to watch my video and if you didn't like it that's not my fault and if you can't figure out how to wind the bobbin perhaps if you weren't so nasty people would help you out but I'm sure not going to help you out.
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Had a working 1906 Model 27-4, used only as a table for 13 years. Zero prior sewing knowledge. Nice demo and explanations to get me to first few stitches. Thanks v. much!! Will share with friends.
That's fantastic! I am so happy that you were able to accomplish that. I love working antiques, workmanship is so rare these days. I appreciate your great news.
Thank you for making this video. I have a few questions. Where can I get a motor for a machine like this? And how did you get the nose plate so clean?
You are very welcome. My first go to place to buy parts, and where I also bought online motors, along with replacement power cords. And tension assemblies
www.vintagesingerparts.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwtNi0BhA1EiwAWZaANGj_w0fB8FLfCcMts4SA2yUQh2CFJkTmRziAilx3olDhGUosK1oSmxoCHRAQAvD_BwE
This sewing machine was covered in Black gunk which is in reality oil. So I would first start by only soaking the silver parts in a rust remover, depending on how shiny it got I would use wet sandpaper, wet sandpaper without causing too much damage to the finish, then finally I would use Zymol which I found an article on the best way to clean sewing machine finishes and this was in it. And I swear by it now because it's the only thing I would use as a final cleaning wax and wax so it was gentle enough to gently use it to remove the old black oil from the finish without damaging decals. It's the only thing I recommend for cleaning the finish without ruining it.
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009JKIRC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
And lastly if I couldn't find the parts new as a reproduction then I would look for a vintage machine or parts on eBay I've been known to buy a machine just for parts. Keep in mind I was refurbing sewing machines to finance my habit, I do collect machines I still have about 50. This one ironically I had bought just for the cabinet. The machine was in such bad condition I was going to throw it away. But it was my first machine and I thought you know since I was going to throw it away anyway I'm not going to worry about what I did to it because I wanted to make it as my test machine on how to repair machines. I'm extremely mechanically inclined so I went for it. Unexpectedly it turned out so gorgeous that I was able to sell the whole thing
You did a good job on this. And great you added the motor too. I’m late to the video. Helping a friend figure out his shuttle treadle. I have other vintage machines including a Singer red eye treadle but not a shuttle. Actually not used my red eye much, had old belt and it broke soon. I had trouble figuring out that knob also. Will be looking again.
Thank you for your kind words, I have repaired and refurbished about 80 machines and I must say they were all a labor of love. I really enjoyed it until my back injury was so bad that I had to stop. I had to watch videos on how to treadle. I now only have one treadle left in my collection. One of these days I should make a video on it. I do have a few other videos that may help you too. Enjoy
The stitches are beautiful. I like looking at this machine, even if it didn’t sew worth a darn. Thanks for the good explanation of how everything works.
Do you have one that isn't sewing well? The most important part is the upper tension assembly and the check spring. The more you understand how they work the better you can get them adjusted. The tension on the Bobbin is next and of course timing of the shuttle. It is easy to adjust, just make sure you understand how and when that shuttle crosses the needle so that the needle picks up the bobbin thread. I am sure there must be videos, I am mechanical so I figured it out. Hope you get yours working well.
Dionne Pray I appreciate your advice. Thank you.
It sounds beautiful Dionne 💕Glenn 💕
Can you do a video on how you set the tension on the Shuttle and how you set the upper tension spring for the 27
I'm sorry I'm in the process of moving and all my machines are in storage at this point so no I wouldn't be able to do any more videos thank you for your interest.
My Minnesota A, is just like that as far as the shuttle and other things, my old needle broke and now I can't get one to work from a singer I'll keep messing with it love your videos.
The trick to knowing where to put the flat edge of the needle is it's always to the opposite way where you start threading so as an example front threading goes from front to back you put the flat edge at the back if it goes from left to right you put the back edge the flat edge on the right if it goes from right to left which is a very rare then it would go to the left. As all machines are different there's kind of like a little cheat where the last thread guide is before it goes through the needle tells you where you thread from the starting place. So as an example I think the 27 has the last thread guide on the left hand side and so it threads from left to right and flat edge is on the right.
If you're doing leather there really isn't anything better. I wouldn't trust most modern machines to do what this one can unless you have 5-10k to spend on a specialty leather sewing machine (cheaper ones won't hold up). I have one identical to this. Made in 1907. My grandmother died 14 years ago and left it to me, but it reminded my grandfather of her so I let him keep it until he passed last year. She spent a lot of time restoring it. I'm excited to get to fixing it after 14 years of non-use.
I'm sorry for your loss, and happy your grandmother's machine will be well loved.
Beautiful! Nice restoration job!
thank you very much!
I have a really old one of this type of machine - about 1984 or 1895 - so not a 27 I don't think (?), but a VS with a bullet style shuttle and everything else seems to function the same. All the outside "bright" parts are rusted but everything inside still turns and moves. So like you I'm going to use it as a machine to learn on. (Unlike yours - the only sign of decals on mine is a kind of "raised shadow" in just a few places. As soon as you wipe it to try to get dirt off, nomatter how gently or softly, it just seems to wipe right off. SMO on it just seems to dissolve it to nothing instantly. So no harm in trying to make it sew again. How much worse can I make it, right? :-D
To wit... Where did you find the new check spring? I can find them for later models but I haven't seen this one and yours looks good! My rusty tensioner can still be turned and release tension but the check spring seems to have lost its zest and is rusty as can be. When I pull the tensioner apart maybe I can help that with repositioning the spring, but I'm not at all sure I'll get the central stud out. Thanks so much for any suggestions from anyone.
I got it from Central Michigan Sewing Supplies. It is the same if your tension assembly looks the same. www.vintagesingerparts.com/
www.vintagesingerparts.com/products/singer-upper-thread-tension-spring-fits-models-27-127?_pos=9&_sid=18de2b375&_ss=r
When it comes to finishes, you need to only use specific cleaners, I use Zymol or lighter fluid. Just be careful with lighter fluid it's combustible.
I’ve seen “antique” models where the back plate access cover is not a circle but a large panel with decal - any idea where these are from or how old they are?
They are very early models of this same machine. I have one it has the Dogwood decals, some believe hand painted, others don't. They are model 27 and Vibrating shuttle I and II. They are Singers. Mostly in the 1800's era. Here's a fiddle base 27 with the large cut out back with decals
www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-ANTIQUE-1889-SINGER-MODEL-27-SEWING-MACHINE-FIDDLE-BASE-ELECT-MOTOR-CASE-/353334393983?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
@@dionnepray9821 very helpful - to be honest this is what I wanted to buy but I’ve been automatically rejecting anything I see with a motor. Is it easy to restore these to work with a treadle?
@@Isabel-of4wq yes!! Now here's some information. The oldest machines came in a cabinet that the machine didn't fold down, reason is there are no set screws at the hinge rod. So my dogwood is in a early drawing room cabinet that has a lift for the machine. You want to look for a large spoked balance wheel as that is what you spin towards you with your hand to start the machine for treadling. Watch treadling videos to understanding. The motors are easily removed and use the leather treadling belt instead of motors belt. It's a lot of exercise to treadle. Enjoy!
They work so good I would rather have one of these than a newer one
But I work on all of THEM
Which side does the flat edge go when you put in the needle on these?
Oops I answered this question on your other post about the Minnesota A.
I have a Jones CS Family from about 1895.It has a lot of built up gunk on some of the decals. What is the best method to clean them and not destroy the color on them. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
I only use Zymol and t shirt rag and a lot of elbow grease.
@@dionnepray9821 Thanks very much!
Did I hear correctly that you cleaned it with sewing machine oil? If not, please let me know. I just acquired a 1903 what I believe to be a 27 due to IMACS (whatever its called). But it doesnt have that lovely push lever on the tension disk on the left. It does have the shovel access plate and the twin sliding plates next to the bobbin. Sphinx decals. Shiny (plain) face plate. Can you confirm that I have a 27 -4 and please let me know what you used to refurb these beauties? Mine is grimy to say the least and hasnt been used in a looong time.
When I bought the cabinet and machine the machine was in such bad condition and I was so new to working on sewing machines I knew nothing really about them even though I've been sewing since 7th grade but nobody ever teaches you how to work on them, nobody teaches you how to troubleshoot even what does a rat's nest or bird's nest on top of the fabric mean what does it mean if it's underneath the fabric. So I had every intention actually of just tossing the machine because it was just black It was gross, I had actually buy a special tool to pull the balance wheel off because it was so hardened on that even a sledgehammer would not remove it I had to use a puller which has four like fingers with the center screw that pushes through the middle and at the same time pulls the balance wheel out. So I thought this machine's in such bad condition it's not worth anything to me and I bought the treadle for my red eye. Unfortunately my red eye was never meant to be a treadle machine and how you know whether a machine was originally for treadle is it has the big balance wheel that you can grab and pull towards you as you start to peddle. If it has a pretty molding of the body around the balance wheel and kind of encloses the top of the balance wheel you know that's meant to be an electric machine. It's funny you know I did this video several years ago and that machine sold very quickly. Nowhere did I say I used oil to clean it, I watched it again because I thought there's no way I said that... I actually didn't tell you how I cleaned this I just said I took it all apart which I did I dismantled it from the balance wheel all the way. How I clean my machines because I didn't open it up so that you could see but the metal parts inside are shiny silver. The only cleaner that will bring all of the old oil varnish off is lighter fluid. So this is how I do it I take it outside and work outside it's the only place I do this because lighter fluid is very toxic and it's combustible. So what I do is I put down cardboard to soak up any excess lighter fluid very thick cardboard not just cheap cardboard I mean you know the heavy duty corrugated so it's got something to really soak it up. Once you scrub the heck out of it with toothbrushes and q-tips and metal brushes you do have to be a little bit careful if you're using a metal brush because the metal can actually start a spark with lighter fluid. So for the most part I use scrubbing brushes that you get like at home Depot that are about 2 in long and the bristles are probably an inch long and there wood handled with a black plastic bristles. And so I squirt the heck out of it and what's really nice about lighter fluid is it will also clean any finish without causing any damage. Where if you try any other cleaning solution whether it's alcohol alcohol never goes anywhere near my machines because it will ruin finishes and I was unfortunate to have a featherweight that happened with. So you don't want alcohol anywhere near your machines ever. A lot of people use kerosene, I'm not a fan. Kerosene will not remove the yellow golden varnish. You see when it comes to oil, varnish is oil-based and oil will turn into a varnish. It's kind of like tongue oil you know so old sewing machines when you open them up if they're not black they're usually gold metal and that's not the color of the metal that's actually old oil that has not been able to be successfully removed. If you use lighter fluid I guarantee you all the metal will turn back to silver, with that being said as soon as it gets clean you need to dab it down with the paper towel or a rag and then you need immediately oil it because it will actually lock up your machine because metal on metal without any lubrication whatsoever will stop movement. So you must oil it well immediately ask me how I know this can happen because that also did happen to me I had a machine that locked up but it's easier to get it moving because there is no oil freezing it it's just there's nothing lubricating it so you just oil the heck out of it. I only use clear sewing machine oil because you're working with fabrics. And you don't want filth. That's why I kind of don't understand all these sewing machine mechanics that don't use lighter fluid they only use kerosene and so that right away tells me it's not cleaned well if that's how they did it. There are a lot of people on Facebook in the sewing machine groups that just use oil, they say oh oil cleans oil does but not very well. Especially if you use some kind of additive oil, cuz I also know of people that use motor oil. Which motor oil has additives and the additives are there so that for people that don't change their oil regularly it helps to clean the engine. The problem is just using oil to clean a motor or a machine can actually cause the metal to break down. Well this was a long-winded reply and I hope it helps you.😅
@@dionnepray9821 you know Dionne, yours is the kind of response commenters like me dream of. Thank you very much. I've been ill, hence the long response time. As to you speaking / not speaking of what you did to get your machine looking so great, I must have been mixing up videos. However, I am glad I did, because now we have an excellent response on the web on "how to". I will be out today to go get lighter fluid (butane, really), and give it a go. I had kerosene ready to go, but your response told me that if I value genuine cleanliness, go for the butane. And so thats what I'll do. I will reply here with an update when I can get her in order - hope to engage you again. All the best to you - G. ps: the four fingered thingmagodie is called a bearing puller. Common in automotive settings, easily obtained at any harbour freight/ princess auto (usa/canada) or parts store.
@@LitoGeorgejust make sure that the lighter fluid is lighter fluid butane is different. I believe I'm not positive but I'm talking just the lighter fluid you know it's in the yellow and blue bottle. And it just squirts out it's not aerosol. Yes you're right it's called bearing puller. When you get to my age you start forgetting all the names for things lol. I'm glad you enjoyed my response and I'm glad you enjoyed my video. You know I've left all my videos up even though these machines have long been sold, because I think there is good information there for people that are perhaps starting out working with vintage and antique machines. And for after I've used lighter fluid on the finish of the machine and gently cleaning where the decals are then I only use Zymol for cleaning and waxing it's a cleaning wax. And so it really does it all in one step. I know a lot of people use turtle Wax but I prefer Zymol it's very effective but yet gentle to the decals. Feel free to check out my other videos because there's a nice variety of machines. I also did some training videos on a chain stitch machine which is a singer 114 w103. They are amazing for doing artwork, which is the only real use I have for sewing machines. Of course I do the odd project but I don't make clothing or any of that anymore. Just art.😊
www.amazon.com/Zymol-Cleaner-Original-Formula-Ounce/dp/B07Q46SY4L/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=3ILJD7HFUVGOZ&keywords=zymol+cleaner+wax&qid=1703875876&sprefix=Zymol+%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-2
www.amazon.com/Ronson-ounce-Ronsonol-Lighter-Fuel/dp/B000XJ36UO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=SHKGQQUMHMBS&keywords=lighter+fluid&qid=1703875968&sprefix=%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-5
You can’t do double needle, there was no such a thing as double needle sewing when that machine was designed, the reason for the double thread spindle is so you can wind a bobbing while sewing.
You are right, I stand corrected. Thank you for your input.
That extra thread spindle is stuck into a hole for oiling. It doesn't belong there. I just finished a restoration of one in its original cabinet and there's no pin there.
I love the old sewing machines. Simply the best to work with.
Can you recommend a place for me to take mine for pieces and restoration? I'm in San Antonio Texas
this is very good. it would be nice to see how you made the adjustments to get it working beautifully.
Thank you for your complement. I appreciate your feedback, this was the first machine I ever took apart, and since it was in such bad condition figured I couldn't hurt it. LOL, There isn't anything I can't fix if I put my mind to it, and it began my love of refurbishing sewing machines and cabinets and cases too. The first thing you have to do is clean the machine, get all the old oil that turns into varnish off the metal parts, and clean the outside too. I use lighter fluid, I find that it will remove the oil to bring it to silver tone again. You must do this outside, and not use any metal tools that could cause a spark, and it it highly combustible. I don't know if there are any videos on how to install the shuttle carrier, that really is important so that it moves freely and picks up the thread easily. The next important area is the upper tension. ON all machines that I work on I either dismantle it, and wet sand the disks so that there is nothing that would hinder the thread, and replace any parts that aren't in excellent condition. Thread tension is the number one issue with operators of sewing machines. If you get a nest it is always tension. Understanding tension and not being afraid to make adjustments. I hope you enjoy my videos, I try to give a bit of a lesson on the machines that I sell. Enjoy!!
You are a mechanical genius. What a beautiful restoration. How much did this one sell for?
Thank you for your kind words. I sold it for 300.00, complete with all accessories.
@@dionnepray9821 that’s a bargain!
Did you do a video of disassembly and/or reassembly.
I did not. When I looked at it I was intending on throwing it out because it looked beyond repair. So I figured I can't hurt it. Why not try to get it working. I was so surprised under the grime the decals were in great shape. And I did sell this machine. Thanks for asking.
you mention an led replacement bulb for the hot bulb in the replacement light sold online. can you post a link. I just got one and it's alarmingly hot.and yellow.
I buy all my led replacements at Amazon. If you take a picture of your light and the bulb I will be able to find the right one and send you a link for the bulb.
@@dionnepray9821 how do i send you a photo?
@@dionnepray9821 I couldn't figure out how to post an image in comments so I sent them to you thru Messenger on FB..
There is no way a "class 27" is capable of using a double needle. The throat plate only has room for one needle and the most important thing, the shuttle is not capable of picking up threads off a dual needle. You can have two top threads, but not double needle. Super nice decals on this machine you have and a perfect stitch. It is always great to see another one working and doing well. They are a bit tricky to get free motion on, but once you get used to it is ok. I have altered a 28 to do free motion and darning by using the feed dog cover, the stripper foot needle clamp and taking the entire presser bar out. These machines can almost do it all.
You are so right, not sure what I was thinking other than so many machines so little time. Ha ha. I think I corrected myself about that as another viewer mentioned it. I'm not taking it down though as I sold it long ago and it was my first rescue. Sorry for the inaccuracies about a 2nd needle. Merry Christmas and happy new year
@@dionnepray9821 I have had over 5 people direct me here on the dual needle subject. I wish one day to see a version of the chain stitch VS2/27 that i have only seen listed in the Smithsonian archives. lately i have been very interested in black Singer tins with the purple velvet in them. Would love to figure the rest of the Styles of attachment tins. I do hand out the PDF of the only available Style 12 attachments manual over on ISMACS digest. Myself and two other answer the pre 1900 Singer's there, keep updated serial number batch info, and current research.I am glad you are getting them and fixing them, i have seen an increase of art items being made out of them..including the 221 and 222. I wouldn't take this video down either, it is good. I have yet to hear a decent idea for dual spool pins or any original source documents on this subject. One of the best explanations is dual top thread , but also winding a bobbin and sewing at the same time as well. Doesn't explain dual pins on a hand crank with manual bobbin winder though lol. Thank you for helping so many with getting their machines going and getting even more interested in these machines and even antique sewing. Merry Christmas and a very happy New Year.
@@alibabafurball Thank you for your wonderful comment. Yes doesn't make sense for 2 spool pins other than if to save time one thread for winding bobbins. I just figure my videos can possibly help someone then I will continue to respond to my mistake. I have restored about 100 + machines of all different makes and models. I sold over half to pay for this err obsession. 😆 🤣
@LitoGeorge I don't blame you I hate Facebook but there's just so many good resources there I can't seem to break away. No I still own that one I kept it that was for my personal pleasure. You see I sold machines to pay for my habit of buying machines for my collection I have about 50 machines three industrials and the rest are household machines. I do have some really spectacular in my collection some original and some that I have completely redone. I also like to refinish cases and cabinets.
I have a 1902 model 27 that I'm trying to find a motor that will fit it as it dosen't have a place to screw in on the back😔 however on the side there is 2 places for screws to fit.
The motor is mounted on a bracket that curves around the machine and screws into the big hole that has two metal rows. Which that receiving end is called a boss, and this comes with standard mounting bolt. Here's a good one on ebay
www.ebay.com/itm/Alphasew-Domestic-L-Bracket-Sewing-Machine-Motor-110-Volt-90W-7000RPM-/163698874566?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
Then you need the power with foot pedal and the best to buy is like this one with an electronic foot pedal. You can also plug a light in, and the plug is labeled for which plugs in where.
www.ebay.com/itm/NGOSEW-UNIVERSAL-SEWING-MACHINE-FOOT-CONTROL-PEDAL-W-LIGHT-MOTOR-BLOCK-FC-143-/322513854627?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
Cool!
Ismacs says 27K July/Dec 1902
I have over 50 machines, and when I made this video, I just couldn't remember off top of my head. It was sold to one of my customers long ago. Thank you for your post 📫
@@dionnepray9821 You're welcome! Thanks for this very helpful video! I just finished restoring mine, and love it!
Where would I go to get my singer restored?
Look for people selling restored machines and ask them if they would do your machine. Either that or do it yourself. Lots of videos on TH-cam of taking machines apart and cleaning. Also a few Facebook groups that can help. I taught myself. You can find parts on Ebay. Good luck.
1902 27k July/December 40000 made There's a nifty free app
Could you do another video in Treadle mode
The machine runs exactly the same. Except I would be powering it instead of the motor. If you want to buy this machine when you come and pick it up I can show you how to remove the rubber belt from the motor, and place the leather belt on it and go.
made December 1902
นยยยบบบบบบจจจจจจขขขขขขขขขขจจจจตยยยยยยยยยนนยยยยยยยยยยจบบบบบจยนนนึร
No help whatsoever. Looking for how to adjust the bobbin and wind it. This video was suggested. Why I have no idea!
You know I didn't recommend you to watch my video and if you didn't like it that's not my fault and if you can't figure out how to wind the bobbin perhaps if you weren't so nasty people would help you out but I'm sure not going to help you out.