How To Install A Crankshaft With New Bearings - (Hyundai / Kia 2.4 GDI) - Short Block Rebuild Part 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ส.ค. 2023
- Continuing with the Hyundai / Kia 2.4 short block rebuild video series, in this video I'll demonstrate how I installed a crankshaft with new crank bearings into a rebored engine block (Hyundai / Kia 2.4 GDI). The crank bearing caps must be squeezed down into the block. Begin by uniformly hand tightening the cap bolts into the block to avoid cross threading. With the cap bolts threaded down and seated on the cap, apply light hammer taps on the cap. You should eventually feel the cap bottom out onto the block. Afterwards you can hand tighten the bolts followed by crisscross torqueing of the cap bolts as per the manufacturer's torque specifications. Upon completion, the crankshaft should rotate freely with no hang points.
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Parts & Tools:
OCPTY 23111-2G200 72RZ62GF00 High Performance Engine Crankshaft Compatible with for Hyundai Sonata for Hyundai Santa Fe for Hyundai Tucson for Kia Forte Crankshaft kit
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Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, 4 oz. , Red
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SATA - ST96535 1/2-Inch Drive Electric Torque Wrench with Angle and Dual Material, 25-250 ft lbs (34-340 Nm) - ST96536
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Piston cooling oil jets (oil squirters) - bolt torque specs.
18.1 - 21.7 LBS or 24.5 - 29.4 NM
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Nice video , thanks for detail
Glad you liked it!
nice i almost forgot about the thrust washers
That would have been a big no no!
Reminds me of my younger days, thanks 🙏
Thanks for sharing!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you!
You bet!
Thank you 👍
You bet! 👍
Hey great video! I’m currently rebuilding one and was wondering where you got your main bearings from?
Thanks! I get bearings from vendors on Amazon, ebay or rockauto.com. sometimes I'll just do a simple Google search.
Is there timing mark on the relocutor wheel crank or you can just put it any kind of way I’m trying to build my Elantra great video btw
Don't believe the timing wheel does not need to be mounted a specific way. If it did, the fastening holes who require perfect alignment.
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I am looking for a crank and rods with bearings for a Hyundai. Please provide info.
Interested
Have you had good luck with Ebay crankshafts? Looking for one of these as one journal is a little worn.
Yes. I've had success with new crankshafts advertised on Ebay. I filter down to the vendor that has the highest satisfaction percentage and high turnover of product. Regardless, have a machine shop check out the crankshaft balance and journal surfaces. Ask them if everything is okay, if they can polish the journals. Good luck!
After torque angle my crank spun freely. However, when I let it sit there for 5 minutes and try to spin again it is VERY hard to turn over. Once it starts turning, it turns smoothly without effort. But again....if I let it sit for more than 5 minutes, it takes a lot of force to get it spinning again.
Could be the 5 minutes allows lubricant to get squeezed out. Get it spinning again allows residual lube to spread back out. Don't believe you'll have a problem one the engine has been started up and motor oil saturates the crank bearings.
Do you know if the piston and ring set will work on any of hyundai/kia 2.4 gdi g4kj motor? Also how has the oil consumption been after overhaul? Thanks!
You'd have to check the specs on the piston and ring set for your specific engine. No noticeable oil consumption after 1,000 miles. As long as the cylinder bore is true (bring it to a engine machine shop to check it out) and the cylinder bores properly honed, a rebuilt engine will not burn oil. Using a flex hone tool will not round out a oval shaped developed worn bore. The gap(s) existing between the piston rings and bore will result in oil consumption and low compression. The oil rings will no scrap off the oil off of the cylinder bore wall if the rings are not making contact. Had that happen to me and had to tear the engine down again. Brought the block to a machine shop, they over bored by .5 mm to make the bores true and installed oversized rings and pistons. Watch this video: th-cam.com/video/AX4iH4cKSAk/w-d-xo.html
Did you reuse the same main cap, connecting rod, and head bolts? The manual states to discard them do to stretch but I was wondering if that's really necessary?
Also I called DNJ to find out more info on their pistons and rings (very minimal info on them in their catalog other than the ring gap sizes and no info on nominal diameter). If you have any spare from your builds you can mic or caliper would be very helpful. Thanks again for your awesome resource!
I reuse main caps and head bolts. I'll replace rods if the engine had rod knock before disassembly.
my 2015 flex plate has 2 parts cant remeber if small plate went outside or inside the main flex did this one have that i have a 1.6
Small plate outside covering the large plate.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks
You bet!
My only question is did you buy new main bolts since they are TTY bolt or just clean them up and reuse them? And if replacement bolts does anyone other than Kia/hyundai sale the bolts?
I reuse the TTY bolts. Never had an issue with them and I've rebuilt these blocks over a dozen times. I don't believe the aluminum block expands enough to place repeated pulling stress on these bolts during heat cycles. You should be able to get replacement bolts via vendors on Ebay, Amazon or rockauto.com
Yo estoy justo ahora reconstruyendo un motor 2.4 GDI y ya que compre todo desde Balances Shaft y Crankshaft, pistones y bielas pues de paso compre los tornillos nuevos. Espero no fallar!🤞
Entonces, ¿cómo resultó la reconstrucción?
@@hardlymovingpro I could be wrong but seems like the common problem with the engine seems to be rod bearing failure around 110,000 ish miles. Also seems like if you run long on the oil changes on those engines they'll become oil burners.
One thing leads to the other; that is weak piston rings installed by the manufacturer to reduce friction and increase fuel efficiency. This eventually leads to oil consumption when the rings get stuck to the piston ring grooves perhaps caused by an extended oil change or the rings getting weak. When the oil pump is starved of oil (because of oil burn), the pump cannot not provide lubrication to the rod bearings; hence rapid rod bearing wear and eventual engine knock. Other car manufacturers are experiencing oil consumption complaints as well (recently read about Subaru customer complaints) since the EPA is placing constant pressure on Manufacturers to get their MPG numbers up and using 20W
(in lieu of 30w) oil as a easy friction reduction solution.
What journal size is the standard main and rod on the GK4L 2.4 L 2011 engine. Who would want to turn down a crank almost to the limit on clearance? I always was told .0007 max not .001 over grind from standard spec.
Machine shop didn't turn down this crank. Everything spec'd out. Only polished journal surfaces.
Hi is it important to put 1 to 5 rod cap in order and does each cap has it own bearing or bearing for rod can go in any number
Order is not important. Bearings can go in to any cap. Bearings have all the same dimensions.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks. I don’t why you said number 1 should be in front of cylinder. Does that mean caps are different with same bore for bearings
@sivucit
Yes the caps have to go in order. When a block is made, they then bolt the main caps to the block and then line bore it. And if you put a different number in a different spot it can throw the line off and cause bear drag and or premature failure of the bearings. There numbered for a reason.. Same as rod caps, they have to stay with the rod they came from. Otherwise they can be off as well. And on rod caps they only fit one way. Hope that helps..
Yes. The caps are slightly different therefore numbered.@@sivucit
@@Hendogg28 Thanks much, so when i change crankshaft will it come with new main CAP as well. apprecaite your help.
Wild question but you think this could be done as an undet haul
Sorry ... but what's a undet haul?
Working on a 2013 hyundai 2.4 crank is bad , my friend is telling me you can't just buy a new crank it needs to match the block , is that true or will the rods need to be new as well ?
Never, ever heard of a crank that needs to match to a block ... and I've used both new and used cranks in rebuilds. If you've got a bad or spun rod bearing(s), best bet is to replace the rods...they could be slightly bent. Plenty of new rods and cranks available on Ebay that I've bought at reasonable prices. A new crank should be be checked out at a machine shop to make sure it's balanced and within specs.
@hardlymovingpro I believe you this is what the person is saying...Crankshafts are trued and line honed to the engine mains. Sure, throw a crank in there-it’ll last long enough to make a couple thousand bucks I guess lmao
Line honing, from my understanding, is used mostly in OHV V8's or V6's that are going to be pushed hard via supercharging, turbocharging or redlining.
Was the bearings A, B or C size? You never mentioned that.
For what years were the A, B & C sizes
A class is 2.00787 to 2.00811, B is 2.00811 to 2.00834, class C is 2.00834 to 2.00858 This is the GK4J code engine of the 2.4L
Thanks for sharing!
Quick question are those bolts reusable?
Yes.
Did check bearing clearances?
Yes. At machine shop.
Where are you located i need to fix my sonata
East of Memphis, TN
how much torque have squirter oil jet?
Sorry. Don't have those specs and where to get it.
Found it! 18.1 - 21.7 LBS or 24.5 - 29.4 NM
Also just doing one of these in a 2.4 Liter i45 Stupid thing! I never thought to mark the Big end caps and they seem to fit both ways except they have a notch on one side. Not sure how to fit these properly as they have no marks at all?
Caps should have some sort of ID.
So did you figure out what's wrong with these engines in the first place? I had 2.4 GDI and it was consuming oil like crazy, 1 qt/300 miles. No leaks, no smoke out of tailpipe but oil was going somewhere. My theory is POS piston rings. But I have never seen anyone to prove a defect in these engines, only theories.
Oil burn caused by use of 5W-20 oil, loose factory piston rings (manufacturer's attempt to improve fuel economy with less ring friction) and stuck oil rings from lack of oil change at the proper service interval (don't go pass 5k miles between oil changes...I prefer 3k.)
1. Check PCV valve
2. Maybe worn Valve seals
2. Oil may leak from oil filter position or dip stick or main seal somewhere hard to see.
Where are you located I need to do this to my sonata