well i made progress. those points were very corroded from water leaking into the points housing, i will seal it up with some silicon so it doesnt happen again for me.
Man, B&S used to make one hell of an engine. My I/C 14 HP Single Cyl is a pretty good engine, but probably wouldn't run if it looked like that. Great job and great engine. Wish they were still made that way
@kenn2986kenn unless someone screwed up the linkages or springs, it sounds to me like your engine might have thrown a governor weight. an easy way to check for sure, is to start the engine and hold the throttle shaft with your hand. if the governor is working you should feel it trying to resist if you try to rev the engine.
yeah it really didnt need much. i had to pop off the head and free the stuck exhaust valve. i had to then file the crap out of the nasty corroded points but i did it. and it really started good and really is a strong running engine.
All the condencer is their to do on an engine with points is to minimise the effects of the arcing at the points. Without a condencer wired to the points they would destroy themselves
welch plug. You have to drill a hole in the center of it stick a screwdriver in the hole and pry it out. you will need a new replacement plug when you are done. you just whack the center of the plug with a ball peen hammer to make it stick
@1944johndeerel The governor weights is in perfect condition, i know because I recently took the engine apart to change the bearings, but it is the spring setup I can´t figure out ??. my motor is from an old Montgomery Ward tractor, and almost the entire governor system was missing, and i can´t figure out how to hook the springs and the links correctly together again.. Help needed :)
Hi i have to exact same engine! Its is in about the same condition as yours. I have rebuilt everything but the carburetor an i am starting on it and i have looked and looked but i cant figure out how to pop out the plug on the carb! Can you please tell me how you popped it out. Im not sure of the name but its the big plug on the side of the carb. Thanks
Being a pre-August 1981 build, you will have to change out the original flywheel to one that is designed for use with the MAGNETRON ignition, which had been used on all cast-iron engines produced since that date.
Hmm, incites me to service my machine, will change my bolts to stainless steel, going to hardware store and will also pick up a six pack of cold ones too...
I have a engine like that I'm rebuilding but I can't figure out how to get the front pully off. It's the same engine as yours put it has electric start and it didn't have the points but it came out of my 1972 Montgomery wards tractor. any advice on how to get that thing off?!
@1944johndeerel yeah its to bad the model z was only 5HP but i had a torq chart they didnt care about HP back then like my little 6s has only 1hp but way more torq at 2,000rpm than a 5hp briggs of today the model z has a shit load of torq i hear they have no problem breaking arms when they arnt happy but most the time ive seen them quite calm on start up dont seem to kick back to much
Could you please take a picture of the governor setup ?? or tell me how to set it up correctly?, I have the same engine but with a starter on it, and it just keeps reving up, instead of staying idle... please help me out here :)
Why don't you install a Magnetron coil w/integrated solid state module, or a NOVA 2 or Mega-Fire solid state ignition module? Then you won't have to worry about the points & condenser going bad.
You'll need to give them your engine's model, type and code numbers when mailing off your flywheel for repolarization to the Magnetron... the Magnetron ignition will not normally work on any engines of this breed prior to August 1, 1981 (code 8108011).
Instead of the Magnetron, a universal solid state electronic ignition module, such as the NOVA 2 or Mega Fire, can be used. Then the magnets won't need to be repolarized.
![THE TOYS x NONT TANONT - ดอกไม้ที่รอฝน (spring) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pPa1d5cC8M4/mqdefault.jpg)
Man, B&S used to make one hell of an engine. My I/C 14 HP Single Cyl is a pretty good engine, but probably wouldn't run if it looked like that. Great job and great engine. Wish they were still made that way
It's a keeper, hope you still have it!👍
Thanks for the informative videos! Now off I go to mine!
Simplicity 3416h for free with snow blower, push bald and the mow deck!
holy shit! nice! good to see an old thing like this running again.
good luck with that!
@vmob45 there should be a single wire that runs from the mag coil down to the points and it ties into the points in the same place the condensor does.
PS...great job in starting that badboy up...cheers...
i just bought a sears Suburban with this engine I hope to hear it run again the motor is a 16 from 1972
@kenn2986kenn unless someone screwed up the linkages or springs, it sounds to me like your engine might have thrown a governor weight. an easy way to check for sure, is to start the engine and hold the throttle shaft with your hand. if the governor is working you should feel it trying to resist if you try to rev the engine.
yeah it really didnt need much. i had to pop off the head and free the stuck exhaust valve. i had to then file the crap out of the nasty corroded points but i did it. and it really started good and really is a strong running engine.
All the condencer is their to do on an engine with points is to minimise the effects of the arcing at the points. Without a condencer wired to the points they would destroy themselves
@vmob45 does your engine have a flywheel magneto coil?
I can believe a z taking off an arm, just looked at one, looks like an A, just a lot bigger
I have the same year engine but its a 9 horse...would all of the connections for the kill switch and spark be the same?
yeah all i had to do to this engine was fix a stuck valve, file and set the points and add gas and it runs great
welch plug. You have to drill a hole in the center of it stick a screwdriver in the hole and pry it out. you will need a new replacement plug when you are done. you just whack the center of the plug with a ball peen hammer to make it stick
Sir do have another exrta 16hp...
@@mariejhoyyaris3347 I used to I'm not sure if still do or not, where are you located
@1944johndeerel The governor weights is in perfect condition, i know because I recently took the engine apart to change the bearings, but it is the spring setup I can´t figure out ??. my motor is from an old Montgomery Ward tractor, and almost the entire governor system was missing, and i can´t figure out how to hook the springs and the links correctly together again.. Help needed :)
ooops my editing program hasnt been working quite right it freezes up and sometimes doesnt show stuff thats already there lol.
hi such a question .... ??? as I connect the coil drive to the pump . You could spend the diagram conccion greetings ......
Hi i have to exact same engine! Its is in about the same condition as yours. I have rebuilt everything but the carburetor an i am starting on it and i have looked and looked but i cant figure out how to pop out the plug on the carb! Can you please tell me how you popped it out. Im not sure of the name but its the big plug on the side of the carb. Thanks
Being a pre-August 1981 build, you will have to change out the original flywheel to one that is designed for use with the MAGNETRON ignition, which had been used on all cast-iron engines produced since that date.
Not so. The magnetic poles can be "recharged",(polarity swapped) or, just turn the coil around like the yellow one is. Keep them running.
Hmm, incites me to service my machine, will change my bolts to stainless steel, going to hardware store and will also pick up a six pack of cold ones too...
I have a engine like that I'm rebuilding but I can't figure out how to get the front pully off. It's the same engine as yours put it has electric start and it didn't have the points but it came out of my 1972 Montgomery wards tractor. any advice on how to get that thing off?!
How many years did Briggs make these engines ?? Thanks
Sir how to full build a 16hp brigds...ur 16 hp is very nice
the points to suppress the arcing
well i do have much older briggs engines than this but i do like vintage briggs as well
@1944johndeerel yeah its to bad the model z was only 5HP but i had a torq chart they didnt care about HP back then like my little 6s has only 1hp but way more torq at 2,000rpm than a 5hp briggs of today the model z has a shit load of torq i hear they have no problem breaking arms when they arnt happy but most the time ive seen them quite calm on start up dont seem to kick back to much
Could you please take a picture of the governor setup ?? or tell me how to set it up correctly?, I have the same engine but with a starter on it, and it just keeps reving up, instead of staying idle... please help me out here :)
You put a new chinese carburetor on it and the throttle lever is clocked wrong. My guess.
Why don't you install a Magnetron coil w/integrated solid state module, or a NOVA 2 or Mega-Fire solid state ignition module? Then you won't have to worry about the points & condenser going bad.
You'll need to give them your engine's model, type and code numbers when mailing off your flywheel for repolarization to the Magnetron... the Magnetron ignition will not normally work on any engines of this breed prior to August 1, 1981 (code 8108011).
Instead of the Magnetron, a universal solid state electronic ignition module, such as the NOVA 2 or Mega Fire, can be used. Then the magnets won't need to be repolarized.
@@ClassicTVMan1981X Just put the new coil in backwards and the problem is solved.
Can I ask what model this motor was?
Pallet Paw I would have to go look it's a 32cubic inch is all I remember so that would be the first 2 digits of the model
@xXSOKkenrusXx just the neighbors trap shooting
should be pretty similar
yeah the old 9hp briggs were what evolved from the model z
kinda simular to a old kohler k series never seen a briggs like this i take that back ive seen a 9HP looked kinda like a model z
you were?
did ya hear the gun shot'
breaks and scatters
never thought you were implying such a thing to begin with