Nice demonstration of what can be a VERY complicated high adrenaline situation. Well done with the real world anchor and inside clarification. A rare enough situation where lots of practice is needed to be comfortable rigging for a rescue if it ever occurs. So many steps, rope and gear management, safeties, redundancies.
Thanks for all the videos! I'd love to see a video about simul-climbing where the leader places micro traction to each bolted anchor so the follower is on top rope and the leader is protected from any follower falls.
Nice video and cool, well explained technique, thank you! This situation came up for me in a multipitch rescue course when hauling a victim with the traxion. My take away was that you had to be certain that you were going to haul since it's not reversible, as I couldn't release a loaded traxion. Now that I know you can release the teeth by loading the "belay" strand, it adds yet another tool to the invaluable toolbox of rope techniques. it's also relevant when hauling out of a crevasse and you need to pass the brake knots if you did not have enough rope for a drop C system.
Hey Ryan. Rookie here but wanted to ask about the second example where you were indoors. Would it feasible to just click back the microtraxxion teeth to use as a pulley with the Grigri once you transfer the weight to the Kleinheist and leave it in the system in lieu of the single biner?
Why not just use the gri gri to belay a second up if you have one? You can haul rope up very quickly with those, much faster than an ATC in guide mode. The new Gri Gris and devices like a Trango Virgo are designed to work upside down. The old Gri Gris you were supposed to do a redirect up to the anchor and then back down to the climber coming up. You would have to have one fast moving climber to go faster than you can easily pull slack with a gri gri or virgo.
Ryan, I don’t troll, and know I’m saying this with sincerity. Don’t advocate for people to belay from above with a microtrax. If you have a gri gri, just use it. It’s no slower…. I’ve been. I’ve been multi pitching for years with some alpine experience as well. Instead of teaching people how to use it in this way, tell them don’t…
And why do you think it’s not a good idea? Don’t just say don’t it… Explain your reason. Can it fail to lock? Yes. Can a GRIGRI also fail to lock? Yes. Can a ATC guide also fail to lock? Less chance, but still yes with skinny ropes. No perfect device exists. It’s what you are willing to use, understanding the pro’s and con’s to each device and situation. Education not fearing mongering please…
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Nice demonstration of what can be a VERY complicated high adrenaline situation. Well done with the real world anchor and inside clarification. A rare enough situation where lots of practice is needed to be comfortable rigging for a rescue if it ever occurs. So many steps, rope and gear management, safeties, redundancies.
Thanks for all the videos! I'd love to see a video about simul-climbing where the leader places micro traction to each bolted anchor so the follower is on top rope and the leader is protected from any follower falls.
Very late but the term for this is short fixing if you need to find any recourse
Nice video and cool, well explained technique, thank you! This situation came up for me in a multipitch rescue course when hauling a victim with the traxion. My take away was that you had to be certain that you were going to haul since it's not reversible, as I couldn't release a loaded traxion. Now that I know you can release the teeth by loading the "belay" strand, it adds yet another tool to the invaluable toolbox of rope techniques. it's also relevant when hauling out of a crevasse and you need to pass the brake knots if you did not have enough rope for a drop C system.
CONGRATULATIONS Master Tiley!!!!
Excellent and useful information!!!
A thousand thanks!!!!
CHAPEAU!!!!!!! Best Wishes.
My man, more solid gold material. Thank you!
Hey Ryan. Rookie here but wanted to ask about the second example where you were indoors. Would it feasible to just click back the microtraxxion teeth to use as a pulley with the Grigri once you transfer the weight to the Kleinheist and leave it in the system in lieu of the single biner?
Selfie expert!
Why not just use the gri gri to belay a second up if you have one? You can haul rope up very quickly with those, much faster than an ATC in guide mode. The new Gri Gris and devices like a Trango Virgo are designed to work upside down. The old Gri Gris you were supposed to do a redirect up to the anchor and then back down to the climber coming up. You would have to have one fast moving climber to go faster than you can easily pull slack with a gri gri or virgo.
Ryan, I don’t troll, and know I’m saying this with sincerity. Don’t advocate for people to belay from above with a microtrax. If you have a gri gri, just use it. It’s no slower…. I’ve been. I’ve been multi pitching for years with some alpine experience as well. Instead of teaching people how to use it in this way, tell them don’t…
And why do you think it’s not a good idea?
Don’t just say don’t it… Explain your reason.
Can it fail to lock? Yes. Can a GRIGRI also fail to lock? Yes. Can a ATC guide also fail to lock? Less chance, but still yes with skinny ropes.
No perfect device exists. It’s what you are willing to use, understanding the pro’s and con’s to each device and situation.
Education not fearing mongering please…
people are out there belaying with micro traxion?
Kkkk it's pretty dope for "easy" terrain, where a 4kn fall is highly unlikely, and even then it's only a sheath damage not the core of the rope.