Thank you Ryan for posting such an informative video. My eleven year old daughter and I were having fun this past weekend climbing and this was the technique that we used. Thank you for sharing.
You’ve informed me of so much stuff man. You really help inspire me to become a much better climber. This skill will also help in climbing photography too.
Great video but when transitioning to rappel you really should add a backup knot below the GriGri while you take off your ascenders. Should the GriGri slip or you disengage the cam (against a rock, hitting it while pulling off an ascender, etc.) you're going for a ride.
If you back up the back up at which point does the redundancy become redundant. I could see adding a prusik to the line but man it just feels like that would be so much. Ps no jugging champion.
@@TheSubieFanIf you used the micro trax for progress capture you wouldn’t need to worry about this, but the gri gri is not a progress capture device, following manufacturers instructions you need to be hands on or backed up, its not even redundancy in this situation when you are getting off the ascenders
thank you this video was very clear and extremely helpful I'm new to climbing did some rappelling with the army videos like yours are helping me learn the basics and giving me ideas on what gear i still yet need
well then you’re like me Rob, did some climbing in the Marines, a rope harness, a carabiner and a Munter hitch. having all this awesome gear now is awesome! Thank you for your service bro
Amazing video thanks a lot Ryan! Just yesterday I was trying to reverse engineer the method by watching a frame of a video haha came pretty close, but for sure i couldn't figure how to do it with just one Tommy Caldwell style. Thanks!!
Great video and perfect form indeed ;) What's the reason not to use locking carabiners to attach the jumars? I see there's a locking carabiner on the grigir, but still (and pls wear a helmet..)
I've actually changed this set up since making this video, I've moved more towards using a small locking carabiner on the daisy chain clipped to one oval carabiner on the ladder (this is for my aid climbing setup.) When it comes time to jug up I can clip the locker with the daisy chain into the jumars. My reason why I used non-lockers on the jumars was because it's two points of connection on the rope to begin with, and then I also have it backed up with a grigri on a locker. At the time one carabiner like that was my aid climbing set up also, so now that I changed to the more versatile setup it make sense to switch to just using lockers on the jumars and still backing myself up with a grigri.
My friend pointed out a 1100 ft 10b in pine creek today with fixed lines and then this shows up in my recommendations tonight. The algorithm is just fucking creepy sometimes
Do you have to throw in catastrophe knots in every 6 to 20ft on the gri gri/microtrax? Do you not need to since you have redundancy in having two devices locked and it takes failure through two devices for the system to fail?
At the moment having the catastrophe knots is more along the lines of personal preference, there are some circumstances where having a few catastrophes wouldn't be bad like when you're counter-ascending to get a stuck climber on a single pitch wall. In a big wall climbing sense I personally don't do the catastrophe knots because my main attachment is the two jumars and the back up is the grigri or microtraxion. So putting in a backup knot every 30 to 50ft is a little over kill. If I was jugging a line with only two jumars then I would tie knots and clip them to my belay loop with a locker. Also in a big wall environment it is okay to put a lot more space between your catastrophe knots where in a single pitch setting you would want them more close together like 5 or 6ft apart.
You could add an extra device between the time you get the jumar off the rope and the time you ascend down. Because you're not supposed to stand only on the grigri without holding the rope, are you ?
It’s not recommended by petzl to take your break hand off the rope without tying a knot in the break strand. If you tie the knot you’re totally fine to take your hands off of the rope, many people including myself don’t do this step all the time unless you’re taking your hands off the rope for extended periods of time. Putting on two different belay devices is cumbersome and is really hard to deal with only two hands.
From 12:46 to 12:57 you are not holding the break side of the rope. Petzl does not approve this dangerous practice and it can be solved by tying a slip knot under it before removing the other components.
Not sure why you need a third attachment point other than for crossing knots / changeovers. Two ascenders is standard in caving. Also why don’t more climbers use a croll?
So that rope was a Black Diamond 10.2 rope, It's made specifically for big wall climbing and actually lasts for a quite a while before you have to retire it.
No, there's a bit of a talking point about why you don't really need to use a friction hitch with the grigri but essentially there is a little bit more security with the break assist feature than a tubular device. Adding a friction hitch won't add in any back up, if you need to take your hands off the device then tie a back up knot in the break strand.
Another excellent vid. How would you change from ascend to descend with an ATC or figure 8 if using the microtraxion and a single hand ascender (or tibloc)?
That’s a tough one, you would have to attach yourself to the top ascender via some sort of personal anchor to your belay loop. Then clip a clove hitch to your belay loop also as a backup for the ascender, after that you have to push the top ascender up high enough to get all your weight on it so you could then switch out the microtraction with your atc then pull rope through that atc enough to transfer all your weight on that. Take the top ascender off and zip down. It would be more of an emergency type thing, if your planning on going down right after ascending up then you’re better off starting with a Grigri already on the rope instead of a micro traction.
Cheers for replying. I've been doing pretty much the same method but with a VT prusik (so I'm not on a single attachment) and then the VT can remain on as a backup for the ATC, but it's a pretty tedious process
The line has with gri gri three points of failure. Someone else stated should he go onto belay and knock the can of the gri gri that would be a bad time. I think the question is how many backups do we really need.
@@ryantilley9063 sometimes you might need to ascend without the equipment that is on the ground after you dropped it or in an unplanned emergency. Prussiks, autoblocks or even one of the many arborist knots like the Blake’s hitch. Some of which require no equipment or extra carabiners at all.
Very helpful video but i have a question: in the last example redirecting the rope to the jumar doesn't compromise the gri gri catching system? Thanks for the great work!
Actually you don’t need a prussic on the break side of a Grigri when you rappel with it because of the awaited breaking function, it’s still recommended that when you go hands free to tie a knot in the break strand but having a prussic on the break strand doesn’t add any extra security.
@@ryantilley9063 Im saying that as i've seen a video on Hard is Easy how gri gri will not block if there's no hand on the break side. Since this is the backup.
You're right you don't really need the jumar to be connected to you with the daisy, it does give you more options with your set up if you need the versatility, but if you are just trying to jug a single pitch real fast there really isn't a need to have the daisy chain.
Make sure you always use device as attended So I wasn't using the device as attended and I was using a carabiner to link the hand to sender to a 5:1 mechanical advantage to pull over a tree well needless to say the pen that held the device together snapped and sheared with five men pulling on the mechanical advantage I was trying to pull over a tree things almost went real bad that day somebody could have gotten hurt learned about that day Use things as attended
14:04 the double-jew-more method sounds very interesting. So you need two Jews or more to do it? I guess I will have to resort to the single-goy method then. 😉
Зачем так сложно? Такое большое и не рациональное колличество ненужной работы. У тебя там есть мини трекшн, встегни его в жумар и поднимай себя с малым трением с отношением 2:1.))
I searched awhile to find the video which illustrated how to use two ascenders. Thanks. Bookmarked.
Thank you Ryan for posting such an informative video. My eleven year old daughter and I were having fun this past weekend climbing and this was the technique that we used. Thank you for sharing.
Ryan Tilley aka the Lizard Hero
You’ve informed me of so much stuff man. You really help inspire me to become a much better climber. This skill will also help in climbing photography too.
Watching this in Yose village, totally failed jugging today so really appreciate the tips
Such efficient and clear demonstration. And lovely Easter egg in the end haha
You guys are awesome for helping the lizard.thanks.vid is obviously great too
That reptile at the end was so unexpected! Cute though hahaha!
That was a newt, a semi-aquatic animal, it must have been rather annoyed about getting "rescued".
Best I've seen, great and informative. Thanks !
thank you for sharing this info
Great video but when transitioning to rappel you really should add a backup knot below the GriGri while you take off your ascenders. Should the GriGri slip or you disengage the cam (against a rock, hitting it while pulling off an ascender, etc.) you're going for a ride.
Ya that's not a bad point to bring up, thanks for adding that!
If you back up the back up at which point does the redundancy become redundant. I could see adding a prusik to the line but man it just feels like that would be so much. Ps no jugging champion.
@@TheSubieFanIf you used the micro trax for progress capture you wouldn’t need to worry about this, but the gri gri is not a progress capture device, following manufacturers instructions you need to be hands on or backed up, its not even redundancy in this situation when you are getting off the ascenders
@sewersquid7924 2 years later from this comment and my lead rope solo is just a gri gri
@@TheSubieFan I hope for your sake it’s a gri gri+ in TR mode but best of luck with that either way.
This was straight to the point and also you seem like you would be fun to climb with. Thanks man!
Awesome, thank you for the detailed explanations ! Helped me troubleshoot my process.
Thank you! A 101 sort of course on this stuff. Just what I needed.
Hey great video man! And thanks for saving that gila monster!
thank you this video was very clear and extremely helpful I'm new to climbing did some rappelling with the army videos like yours are helping me learn the basics and giving me ideas on what gear i still yet need
well then you’re like me Rob, did some climbing in the Marines, a rope harness, a carabiner and a Munter hitch. having all this awesome gear now is awesome! Thank you for your service bro
Girth hitching a life safety sling? That's a bold strategy, Cotton.
Ryan, thank you for posting this video. It is really instructional.
12:41 and 15:01 should you be holding the brake line to the Grigri?
Good stuff brother!
Nicely explained👍
Thats very well explained and very useful! Thanks man.
Amazing video thanks a lot Ryan! Just yesterday I was trying to reverse engineer the method by watching a frame of a video haha came pretty close, but for sure i couldn't figure how to do it with just one Tommy Caldwell style. Thanks!!
Great video and perfect form indeed ;) What's the reason not to use locking carabiners to attach the jumars? I see there's a locking carabiner on the grigir, but still (and pls wear a helmet..)
I've actually changed this set up since making this video, I've moved more towards using a small locking carabiner on the daisy chain clipped to one oval carabiner on the ladder (this is for my aid climbing setup.) When it comes time to jug up I can clip the locker with the daisy chain into the jumars. My reason why I used non-lockers on the jumars was because it's two points of connection on the rope to begin with, and then I also have it backed up with a grigri on a locker. At the time one carabiner like that was my aid climbing set up also, so now that I changed to the more versatile setup it make sense to switch to just using lockers on the jumars and still backing myself up with a grigri.
My friend pointed out a 1100 ft 10b in pine creek today with fixed lines and then this shows up in my recommendations tonight. The algorithm is just fucking creepy sometimes
Do you have to throw in catastrophe knots in every 6 to 20ft on the gri gri/microtrax? Do you not need to since you have redundancy in having two devices locked and it takes failure through two devices for the system to fail?
At the moment having the catastrophe knots is more along the lines of personal preference, there are some circumstances where having a few catastrophes wouldn't be bad like when you're counter-ascending to get a stuck climber on a single pitch wall. In a big wall climbing sense I personally don't do the catastrophe knots because my main attachment is the two jumars and the back up is the grigri or microtraxion. So putting in a backup knot every 30 to 50ft is a little over kill. If I was jugging a line with only two jumars then I would tie knots and clip them to my belay loop with a locker. Also in a big wall environment it is okay to put a lot more space between your catastrophe knots where in a single pitch setting you would want them more close together like 5 or 6ft apart.
You could add an extra device between the time you get the jumar off the rope and the time you ascend down. Because you're not supposed to stand only on the grigri without holding the rope, are you ?
It’s not recommended by petzl to take your break hand off the rope without tying a knot in the break strand. If you tie the knot you’re totally fine to take your hands off of the rope, many people including myself don’t do this step all the time unless you’re taking your hands off the rope for extended periods of time. Putting on two different belay devices is cumbersome and is really hard to deal with only two hands.
From 12:46 to 12:57 you are not holding the break side of the rope. Petzl does not approve this dangerous practice and it can be solved by tying a slip knot under it before removing the other components.
Not sure why you need a third attachment point other than for crossing knots / changeovers. Two ascenders is standard in caving.
Also why don’t more climbers use a croll?
lol @ the salamander @ the end.
hey, Ryan, what kind of rope are you using ? thanks
So that rope was a Black Diamond 10.2 rope, It's made specifically for big wall climbing and actually lasts for a quite a while before you have to retire it.
Do you run a backup to the grigri when descending, like a friction knot?
No, there's a bit of a talking point about why you don't really need to use a friction hitch with the grigri but essentially there is a little bit more security with the break assist feature than a tubular device. Adding a friction hitch won't add in any back up, if you need to take your hands off the device then tie a back up knot in the break strand.
Was that a double figure 8 knot at the top there. ?
No, it was just your usual figure 8 on a bight
Another excellent vid. How would you change from ascend to descend with an ATC or figure 8 if using the microtraxion and a single hand ascender (or tibloc)?
That’s a tough one, you would have to attach yourself to the top ascender via some sort of personal anchor to your belay loop. Then clip a clove hitch to your belay loop also as a backup for the ascender, after that you have to push the top ascender up high enough to get all your weight on it so you could then switch out the microtraction with your atc then pull rope through that atc enough to transfer all your weight on that. Take the top ascender off and zip down. It would be more of an emergency type thing, if your planning on going down right after ascending up then you’re better off starting with a Grigri already on the rope instead of a micro traction.
Cheers for replying. I've been doing pretty much the same method but with a VT prusik (so I'm not on a single attachment) and then the VT can remain on as a backup for the ATC, but it's a pretty tedious process
Great video! How do you fix the rope? With a double eight in the bolt (with a carabiner)?
Just to add one thing I would have a prusik after the grigri so encase you go hands free it's still safe
Certainly wouldn't hurt. He does have a second point by being tied in with to ascender.
The line has with gri gri three points of failure. Someone else stated should he go onto belay and knock the can of the gri gri that would be a bad time. I think the question is how many backups do we really need.
You dont have to pass carabiner through rope ? When using gri gri?
could you please make a video of ascending a rope using the prussik knots...your method?
Ya sure thing, I’ll add that video to my list
@@ryantilley9063 thank you
@@ryantilley9063 sometimes you might need to ascend without the equipment that is on the ground after you dropped it or in an unplanned emergency. Prussiks, autoblocks or even one of the many arborist knots like the Blake’s hitch. Some of which require no equipment or extra carabiners at all.
What make and model is that harnesse where can I purchase one like it ? Your instructions are great. Like you're video's
That's a Black Diamond Big Gun harness
6:28: yep, he's been climbing ...
Very helpful video but i have a question: in the last example redirecting the rope to the jumar doesn't compromise the gri gri catching system? Thanks for the great work!
If you have your leg loop at the right extension then you shouldn’t really have a problem with it hitting the top of your Grigri.
Shouldn't the gri gri have some prusik on exit side ? just saying :)
Actually you don’t need a prussic on the break side of a Grigri when you rappel with it because of the awaited breaking function, it’s still recommended that when you go hands free to tie a knot in the break strand but having a prussic on the break strand doesn’t add any extra security.
@@ryantilley9063 Im saying that as i've seen a video on Hard is Easy how gri gri will not block if there's no hand on the break side. Since this is the backup.
I am putting a schwabisch above my grgri as a backup.
Where was this filmed? Looks like Mt. Lemmon!
Yep, you’re totally right, Mt. Lemmon
The lizzard is beautiful
whats the list of equipment you use ?
Hey Ryan, why you keep your easy daisy while on 1 jumar method? redundancy?
You're right you don't really need the jumar to be connected to you with the daisy, it does give you more options with your set up if you need the versatility, but if you are just trying to jug a single pitch real fast there really isn't a need to have the daisy chain.
What is "jugging" the line?
It's another term for ascending a fixed line, sorry I didn't make that more clear!
What does GMR mean?
The oh shit hole :') :')!! Brilliant
The oh shit hole I love it
Nice lizard? Is that a local?
Ya, it's a Gila monster, there all over the southwest desert
14:44 That seems like a 2:1 to me. But thanks for the content anyway!
The picture of the video is like a tiny robot 🤖 with his tongue out to the side. That needs to be saved
Texas vs frogger?
Cool
15:20 aww poor lil fella :)
Wolverine teaches how to ascend a fixed line
👍💯
Make sure you always use device as attended
So I wasn't using the device as attended and I was using a carabiner to link the hand to sender to a 5:1 mechanical advantage to pull over a tree well needless to say the pen that held the device together snapped and sheared with five men pulling on the mechanical advantage I was trying to pull over a tree things almost went real bad that day somebody could have gotten hurt learned about that day
Use things as attended
At 12:50 of the video I swear I heard a fart!
Also....BACKUP KNOT!
I appreciate the safety but..the whole system looks so cumbersome.
14:04 the double-jew-more method sounds very interesting. So you need two Jews or more to do it? I guess I will have to resort to the single-goy method then. 😉
Зачем так сложно? Такое большое и не рациональное колличество ненужной работы. У тебя там есть мини трекшн, встегни его в жумар и поднимай себя с малым трением с отношением 2:1.))
A lot of gear ...
I like you but I don’t like you abseiling without a backup.
It’s fine but he’s should have locked it off when he took his hand off it.