I'm setting up my first planted tank (after being obsessed with Amano for a decade), and have been binge watching your vids. Thank you so much for all of this information! I feel like I'll be off to the best possible start. :)
Hello Jacob. I'm in the UK and new to fish keeping. I'm currently doing a fishless cycle of my first ever tank. It's a planted 120 litre tank (that's 30 US gallons? you guys really do need to go metric like the rest of the world :-) and inches, really, come on guys it's the 21C now! ). I've used some good quality nutrient rich substrate and a layer of black gravel (plus some black sand at the "beach" end of my tank!). I've planted up with echinodorus bleheri, marsilea hirsuita, myriophylum tuberculatum, pogostemon helferi, valisnaria spiralis 'tiger', floated some limnobium laevigatum and attached java moss, fire moss and riccia fluitans to my hardscape. I'm got an Eheim 300 cylinder filter, Interpet LED lighting 12.6W and Co2 injection. I'm some ten days in and I'm really pleased with all the growth I'm getting. My latest readings were pH 7.5, 0.5 ammonia, 0.5 nitrite, 15 nitrate. I did one major 50% water change after five days when I planted up (I started with just some java moss), added some bactosprint and started the CO2. I'm using tap water and adding a dechlorinator. My problem is that I've visited many different local aquatics stores and got almost as many different conflicting pieces of advice. So, first off, many thanks for your brilliant videos. Man, I am putting my trust you. You are clearly experienced, passionate, knowledgable and not trying to sell me something! Congratulations on your channel. C'est magnifique! I get one or other of the local stores to do a free water test and after the results I got above the advice was to do water changes more frequently. However I think I'm going with you and will remain with my original plan to do weekly 25% changes. I've now seen my first algae appearing. The trailing roots of my limnobium are covered in what I assume is hair algae. I hope you don't mind me being cheeky and asking for your advice? The bloke at the aquatics store reckoned my pH (at 7.5) was spot on. I'm not intending to stock with anything particularly dramatic, just simple fish from South America, tetra, corys, pencilfish and hatchets. Shouldn't I be aiming for a rather more acidic pH? What do I do to adjust ph anyway? Should I redose with bactosprint at anytime? My cylinder filter handbook suggests I remove the carbon filter after a fortnight? Would you recommend that?
Great video, I agree with you that water changes need to be done only when there are parameters to adjust: pH, KH, GH, etc... but I don't agree with some things you said: water changes don't remove bacteria, only a really small part, because bacteria lives near plant's roots, in the filter media, rocks, woods... therefore, you don't have to put bacterial activators at every change because bacteria develops from themselve. You said that is a stupid thing to put fish food, actually it's helpful, you need heterotrophs and nitrifying bacteria: to help balance them, you need organic matter (fish food, excrements, plants...), it helps for heterotrophs to produce ammonium to start the nitrification. If heterotrophic bacteria colonize the aquarium from the beginning together with Nitrospira and Nitrobacter, these three species will adapt to each other and find a balance. If, on the other hand, the heterotrophs develop later, the former are forced to shrink and become blocked. And often, when nitrifying bacteria are blocked, the infamous filamentous algae will develop; or worse, you will have a new "nitrite peak" ... and it's harmful with fishes in the tank. You don't need any commercial bacterial activator (they only help to speed up the process only for nitrifying bacteria)... Fish food isn't a stupid idea: try to believe... you can do this from the first start. At the beginning, nothing happens if you introduce the fishes after only a month, but, to make a good thing, they should be inserted (gradually, in order to not overload the bacterial load = fishes produce excrements) when the whole aquarium and the filter are settled by bacteria: that is 4-5 months. Do not feed the fish every day, or bacterial load will overload, but, is better once or twice a week (commercial food contains more nutrients than a fish in his habitat would eat in a week). Tell me what you think.
the one topic that has been on my mind the most (and I am finding out is the subject least discussed in the planted tank realm) is how long to run our the tank's lights daily and why. I could really use some sound discussions around this.
Always have problems with hair algae once its past a few weeks. Had to REALLY limit my light to under 6 hrs and its helping along with CONTINUOUS MANUAL REMOVAL. Also 5x Otos, 6-8 Amano Shrimp, 10-15 cherry shrimp, 1x SAE, 2x bristle nose plecos and 2x nerites to help. About ready to start back on CO2 before long if this keeps up
Great point on water flow. In a discus Aquarium where you have high temperature Water, which devolve less Oxygen.. One would want more surface aggregation for more O2 to defused into the water . On the other hand more Co2 is release into the air money out the door with Co2 injection. Is their a happy medium in this case?.
Fantastic tutorial. Wish I watched it before I planted a bunch of beautiful dwarf baby tears and pearlweed in my newly-cycled tank and blasted them with 14 hrs/day of too much light. :( Bigtime hair algae problems.
Hi Jacob Nice video ;) and great tips But just one thing, you said that old water has beneficial bacteria and that is not really true, bacteria do not colonize the water, they colonize surfaces like the filter media or the substrate
I agree that a 10% water change every *day* is ridiculous. A 50% change is also stupid, unless there's something seriously wrong with your tank... I change about 15-20% every week during my regular maintenance and that works fine for me, but there's a good chance that's not even necessary - I'm just used to doing it. Sometimes I skip a week and that usually is fine too. Everyone has to experiment with what works for them, every aquarium is a unique ecosystem. That's whjy it's so hard to give good advice ;)
Nice video. I agree on most of the parts you talked about. I have the impression that you minimalize the importance of a waterchange a bit.. I am not talking about those daily wc or 50% waterchanges, but in my experience a weekly 20% wc keeps your water in good quality. = which results in stable water conditions = less chance for algae. I subbed !
i wish i found your videos sooner. i lost 100's of rands on plants. Subwassertang, Moss, many many other plants. now im hoping once i follow your advise i can keep those plants again
you need the NO2 (nitrite) and NO3- (nitrate) reagent tests. Add fish food in the aquarium: after a few days, you have to do the NO2 test. If the nitrites do not move from zero, this result can be obtained after one month, from the first start; then fishes can be added. Gradually: a few species at a time. If the organic load exceeds the nitrifying capacity of the bacteria, in fact, you can have a "nitrite peak" dangerous for the health of the fish: they could die of asphyxiation.
Great video, I don't think there's a right or wrong when it comes to water changes. It all depends it the condition of your tap water. But is interesting to hear some body else's opinion. But I agree, its all about finding a balance.
Great sum up. But i do have to go against your opinion on the water changes (WC). Lets just assume its the beginning of a new tank. If the tank starts with a few/slow grow/ or none live plant then I'd agree that it might slow the cycling process. But as you suggest, which i like it too, stock the tank with fast grow plants at the beginning.Like Ludwigia repens, you don't even have to put them in the substrate but temporary hanging on/in the tank as a nutrition sponge, it'd be a good idea against the new tank syndromes. Here is my opinion on the water changes, it helps promoting the plant growth because most of tap water contains dissolved Co2 as well as other nutrition. And plant growth fast well are what we aim for to out-compete the algae. So basically the advise of "doing wc help reducing algae" is more like " promoting plant growth to prevent algae growth". Keep in mind that i'm not saying that's a good thing for other living inhabitant in the tank but i do know its good for plants. Good plant growth > less algae. Also i believe a tank loaded with growing plants will cycle so much faster. Here is one of the topic that Tom Barr discussed, someone mentioned Amano agrees on the wc too but i couldn't find the source. www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/11575-Why-water-change-day-seems-to-grow-aquatic-plants-better/page2
You are welcome, my friend. I'm glad that you back on making tank tips video specifically now!! Just so you know that I'm still waiting for a video about the tank behind you!!!
I think Flow is very important for preventing algae. My filter inside my nano tank(35cm) is eheim ecco. most people know that once eheim ecco reaches 1 month the flow will start to get slow. then the algae starts to propagate. So what i did i put a small powerhead rio to increase the flow. guess what my black beard algae is gone. I mean it stop growing. So i just scratch some of it with tweezer to remove it. I put ceramic co2 under my powerhead so that my outflow has co2 mix in it.
Great video...you mentioned don't have too much water flow as it lowers the CO2 affect. Should I turn off my bubbler? I have a 29 gallon tank with 2 HOB filters and a small bubbler.
Please help, I keep getting brown algae (diatoms) back into my tank. even when cleaning each week, im getting so frustrated since I cant stop it :( any tips?
I'm getting a lot of hair algae growth in my tank but it seems to be confined to areas where I have flame moss growing. It rarely grows on anything else. The flame miss IS located on a large piece of driftwood that's in an area that isn't quite as heavily planted as the rest of the aquarium. Any suggestions on how to stop it? I'm running a high tech system with sump filtration, R/O water, CO2 injection and LED lighting. Only do 10% water change weekly. I even have an in tank UV filter.
i have 20 watts Led T8 light. And my tank size is 2ft x 1ft x 1ft(14 gallon). And am totally into Anubias and Crypto plants. i give 6-7 hrs of light and pressurized co2 . I see some algae on the leaf, as i know anubias is very slow growing plant so it grows algae most of the time. But my question is if i cut the power of light into 12watt and give 6-7 hrs light can i keep the algae in control on their leaf?
Jacob, algae and hydrogen peroxide in the planted/fish tank. What are your views and if you have done any research on this method, do you know the pros and cons of this? Thanks bruv.
Hi Jacob. Can you tell me how to stop brown algae. I have a tank that's been set up for a year and I constantly get brown algae all over the tank and plants. Thanks.
Right now I'm treating a Staghorn Algae bloom with API Algaefix, but after 3 treatments it has only made a dent in the infestation. I'm starting to see some progress but there's still a considerable amount on my ground plants. Should I stay the course or try something else?
I have Juwel rio 240 with its original lighting 54 wats each which gives in total 108 watts for 240L. I got some DIATOM. My tank runs 2 weeks now . what should I do ?
i have a wavemaker in 20 gal & susnsun filter with spaybar & adding co2 tabs. so is the wavemaker a good or a bad idea? as technically the co2 tabs aren't dissolved co2 but glycolaldehyde?
yo there :D....i dnt have thatm uch problem on my algae...but i got soo messy aquarium..i do water changes evry 2 weeks and clean it...but idk why for like few days i see so many poos something else omg-.-.
I have a quick question. i have a 55g tank and i'm running a diy co2 system, but i have a sump for my filtration so there is a lot of water movement there. would that demolish most of my co2?
Hey hey Jacob i have a serious problem... Im combating black beard Algea but no where online is there a easy solution what would be the best way to remove it or kill it in my 100 Leter guppy tank its covering all my plants! Thanks :)
It does not hurt them, but algae competes with the plants you may trying to grow and can potentially kill them. Some fish graze on algae and benefit from it. It is entirely up to the owner of the fish tank to decide whether or not to keep algae.
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more truth here than fifty other videos, well done mate and thank you ROY
I'm setting up my first planted tank (after being obsessed with Amano for a decade), and have been binge watching your vids. Thank you so much for all of this information! I feel like I'll be off to the best possible start. :)
How'd it go?
Hello Jacob. I'm in the UK and new to fish keeping. I'm currently doing a fishless cycle of my first ever tank. It's a planted 120 litre tank (that's 30 US gallons? you guys really do need to go metric like the rest of the world :-) and inches, really, come on guys it's the 21C now! ).
I've used some good quality nutrient rich substrate and a layer of black gravel (plus some black sand at the "beach" end of my tank!). I've planted up with echinodorus bleheri, marsilea hirsuita, myriophylum tuberculatum, pogostemon helferi, valisnaria spiralis 'tiger', floated some limnobium laevigatum and attached java moss, fire moss and riccia fluitans to my hardscape.
I'm got an Eheim 300 cylinder filter, Interpet LED lighting 12.6W and Co2 injection. I'm some ten days in and I'm really pleased with all the growth I'm getting. My latest readings were pH 7.5, 0.5 ammonia, 0.5 nitrite, 15 nitrate. I did one major 50% water change after five days when I planted up (I started with just some java moss), added some bactosprint and started the CO2. I'm using tap water and adding a dechlorinator.
My problem is that I've visited many different local aquatics stores and got almost as many different conflicting pieces of advice. So, first off, many thanks for your brilliant videos. Man, I am putting my trust you. You are clearly experienced, passionate, knowledgable and not trying to sell me something! Congratulations on your channel. C'est magnifique!
I get one or other of the local stores to do a free water test and after the results I got above the advice was to do water changes more frequently. However I think I'm going with you and will remain with my original plan to do weekly 25% changes.
I've now seen my first algae appearing. The trailing roots of my limnobium are covered in what I assume is hair algae. I hope you don't mind me being cheeky and asking for your advice?
The bloke at the aquatics store reckoned my pH (at 7.5) was spot on. I'm not intending to stock with anything particularly dramatic, just simple fish from South America, tetra, corys, pencilfish and hatchets. Shouldn't I be aiming for a rather more acidic pH? What do I do to adjust ph anyway?
Should I redose with bactosprint at anytime? My cylinder filter handbook suggests I remove the carbon filter after a fortnight? Would you recommend that?
Its always a pleasure to listen to your advice. Great video as usual.
GOOD EXPLANATION GUIDE :)
THANK YOU FOR SHARING :)
THANK YOU FROM ISRAEL :)
Great video, I agree with you that water changes need to be done only when there are parameters to adjust: pH, KH, GH, etc... but I don't agree with some things you said: water changes don't remove bacteria, only a really small part, because bacteria lives near plant's roots, in the filter media, rocks, woods... therefore, you don't have to put bacterial activators at every change because bacteria develops from themselve.
You said that is a stupid thing to put fish food, actually it's helpful, you need heterotrophs and nitrifying bacteria: to help balance them, you need organic matter (fish food, excrements, plants...), it helps for heterotrophs to produce ammonium to start the nitrification. If heterotrophic bacteria colonize the aquarium from the beginning together with Nitrospira and Nitrobacter, these three species will adapt to each other and find a balance. If, on the other hand, the heterotrophs develop later, the former are forced to shrink and become blocked. And often, when nitrifying bacteria are blocked, the infamous filamentous algae will develop; or worse, you will have a new "nitrite peak" ... and it's harmful with fishes in the tank. You don't need any commercial bacterial activator (they only help to speed up the process only for nitrifying bacteria)... Fish food isn't a stupid idea: try to believe... you can do this from the first start.
At the beginning, nothing happens if you introduce the fishes after only a month, but, to make a good thing, they should be inserted (gradually, in order to not overload the bacterial load = fishes produce excrements) when the whole aquarium and the filter are settled by bacteria: that is 4-5 months.
Do not feed the fish every day, or bacterial load will overload, but, is better once or twice a week (commercial food contains more nutrients than a fish in his habitat would eat in a week).
Tell me what you think.
the one topic that has been on my mind the most (and I am finding out is the subject least discussed in the planted tank realm) is how long to run our the tank's lights daily and why. I could really use some sound discussions around this.
Always have problems with hair algae once its past a few weeks. Had to REALLY limit my light to under 6 hrs and its helping along with CONTINUOUS MANUAL REMOVAL. Also 5x Otos, 6-8 Amano Shrimp, 10-15 cherry shrimp, 1x SAE, 2x bristle nose plecos and 2x nerites to help. About ready to start back on CO2 before long if this keeps up
Great point on water flow. In a discus Aquarium where you have high temperature Water, which devolve less Oxygen.. One would want more surface aggregation for more O2 to defused into the water . On the other hand more Co2 is release into the air money out the door with Co2 injection. Is their a happy medium in this case?.
Fantastic tutorial. Wish I watched it before I planted a bunch of beautiful dwarf baby tears and pearlweed in my newly-cycled tank and blasted them with 14 hrs/day of too much light. :( Bigtime hair algae problems.
So basicly; its all about the balance in your aquarium
Hi Jacob
Nice video ;) and great tips
But just one thing, you said that old water has beneficial bacteria and that is not really true, bacteria do not colonize the water, they colonize surfaces like the filter media or the substrate
Pierce the veil!!! Love it
I agree that a 10% water change every *day* is ridiculous. A 50% change is also stupid, unless there's something seriously wrong with your tank... I change about 15-20% every week during my regular maintenance and that works fine for me, but there's a good chance that's not even necessary - I'm just used to doing it. Sometimes I skip a week and that usually is fine too. Everyone has to experiment with what works for them, every aquarium is a unique ecosystem. That's whjy it's so hard to give good advice ;)
Thanks for watching friend :)
Could you do a video of the correct surface agitation for a planted tank?!
Liam James McDonald Yes, thank you for the recommendation :)
i like the way you laugh...great vids
Nice video. I agree on most of the parts you talked about.
I have the impression that you minimalize the importance of a waterchange a bit..
I am not talking about those daily wc or 50% waterchanges, but in my experience a weekly 20% wc keeps your water in good quality. = which results in stable water conditions = less chance for algae.
I subbed !
i wish i found your videos sooner. i lost 100's of rands on plants. Subwassertang, Moss, many many other plants. now im hoping once i follow your advise i can keep those plants again
Rand's?....South African I'm guessing😁🍺
@@richardwebb9532 yes SA :) :P over R2000 of plants that died. but after this video.... those ferts got me going strong now ....
Exactly what I thought about getting some plants out...
So how you really know if your aquarium is CYCLING PROPERLY?
you need the NO2 (nitrite) and NO3- (nitrate) reagent tests. Add fish food in the aquarium: after a few days, you have to do the NO2 test. If the nitrites do not move from zero, this result can be obtained after one month, from the first start; then fishes can be added.
Gradually: a few species at a time.
If the organic load exceeds the nitrifying capacity of the bacteria, in fact, you can have a "nitrite peak" dangerous for the health of the fish: they could die of asphyxiation.
Great video, I don't think there's a right or wrong when it comes to water changes. It all depends it the condition of your tap water. But is interesting to hear some body else's opinion. But I agree, its all about finding a balance.
What is algae with the clear bubbles all on it?
Ty for info
Great sum up. But i do have to go against your opinion on the water changes (WC). Lets just assume its the beginning of a new tank. If the tank starts with a few/slow grow/ or none live plant then I'd agree that it might slow the cycling process. But as you suggest, which i like it too, stock the tank with fast grow plants at the beginning.Like Ludwigia repens, you don't even have to put them in the substrate but temporary hanging on/in the tank as a nutrition sponge, it'd be a good idea against the new tank syndromes. Here is my opinion on the water changes, it helps promoting the plant growth because most of tap water contains dissolved Co2 as well as other nutrition. And plant growth fast well are what we aim for to out-compete the algae. So basically the advise of "doing wc help reducing algae" is more like " promoting plant growth to prevent algae growth". Keep in mind that i'm not saying that's a good thing for other living inhabitant in the tank but i do know its good for plants. Good plant growth > less algae. Also i believe a tank loaded with growing plants will cycle so much faster. Here is one of the topic that Tom Barr discussed, someone mentioned Amano agrees on the wc too but i couldn't find the source. www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/11575-Why-water-change-day-seems-to-grow-aquatic-plants-better/page2
Very interesting. I will keep this in mind. Thanks for watching friend :)
You are welcome, my friend. I'm glad that you back on making tank tips video specifically now!! Just so you know that I'm still waiting for a video about the tank behind you!!!
So this is interesting. I noticed in my new planted tank that the most algae is where the high flow is coming from my aquaclear.
I think Flow is very important for preventing algae. My filter inside my nano tank(35cm) is eheim ecco. most people know that once eheim ecco reaches 1 month the flow will start to get slow. then the algae starts to propagate. So what i did i put a small powerhead rio to increase the flow. guess what my black beard algae is gone. I mean it stop growing. So i just scratch some of it with tweezer to remove it. I put ceramic co2 under my powerhead so that my outflow has co2 mix in it.
Great video...you mentioned don't have too much water flow as it lowers the CO2 affect. Should I turn off my bubbler? I have a 29 gallon tank with 2 HOB filters and a small bubbler.
Very nicely explained thanks
Thanks for watching! :)
I do waterchanges once a month. I dont see any point in changeing that routine.
50%? What fishes do you keep though?
This guy is real. Thanks for your help. 😃
Please help, I keep getting brown algae (diatoms) back into my tank. even when cleaning each week, im getting so frustrated since I cant stop it :( any tips?
I'm getting a lot of hair algae growth in my tank but it seems to be confined to areas where I have flame moss growing. It rarely grows on anything else. The flame miss IS located on a large piece of driftwood that's in an area that isn't quite as heavily planted as the rest of the aquarium. Any suggestions on how to stop it? I'm running a high tech system with sump filtration, R/O water, CO2 injection and LED lighting. Only do 10% water change weekly. I even have an in tank UV filter.
I read green spot algae caused by lighting but not low co2 to be honest.
Great video. Thanks
Informative video and I like your humour :)
i have 20 watts Led T8 light. And my tank size is 2ft x 1ft x 1ft(14 gallon). And am totally into Anubias and Crypto plants. i give 6-7 hrs of light and pressurized co2 . I see some algae on the leaf, as i know anubias is very slow growing plant so it grows algae most of the time. But my question is if i cut the power of light into 12watt and give 6-7 hrs light can i keep the algae in control on their leaf?
Jacob, algae and hydrogen peroxide in the planted/fish tank. What are your views and if you have done any research on this method, do you know the pros and cons of this? Thanks bruv.
Hi Jacob. Can you tell me how to stop brown algae. I have a tank that's been set up for a year and I constantly get brown algae all over the tank and plants. Thanks.
Right now I'm treating a Staghorn Algae bloom with API Algaefix, but after 3 treatments it has only made a dent in the infestation. I'm starting to see some progress but there's still a considerable amount on my ground plants. Should I stay the course or try something else?
Hi. about the water flow. I agree, in a co² injected tank too much flow wastes all the co². but in non co² tank ?
Why when start using pressurized co2 in my 250 liters 7 hours one bubble per second algae start growing !!!
Hey Jacob, Do you sell floating plants on your website? If you do could you tell me some names please?
What about a 30 second bleach solution dip?
I have Juwel rio 240 with its original lighting 54 wats each which gives in total 108 watts for 240L. I got some DIATOM. My tank runs 2 weeks now . what should I do ?
Jacob do you have a particular tip how to get rid of GSA?
How many W/G are apropriate for plants to grow?
awesome again
Do you use hydrogen peroxide for algae?
do you have any idea where is the best place to put the co2 diffuser?
i have a wavemaker in 20 gal & susnsun filter with spaybar & adding co2 tabs. so is the wavemaker a good or a bad idea? as technically the co2 tabs aren't dissolved co2 but glycolaldehyde?
yo there :D....i dnt have thatm uch problem on my algae...but i got soo messy aquarium..i do water changes evry 2 weeks and clean it...but idk why for like few days i see so many poos something else omg-.-.
Very informative videos. I would consider buying, but I live in N.Y., three days in transit. You think that is ok?
Roger Mims We ship to the east coast almost everyday without an issue.
@@MrJacobCastro Well then, you are my go to plant guy. Tank will be delivered in a couple of days.
I have a quick question. i have a 55g tank and i'm running a diy co2 system, but i have a sump for my filtration so there is a lot of water movement there. would that demolish most of my co2?
no, each are independent (CO2 & O2)
Nice Video thx Jacob (y)
Thanks for watching my friend :)
I really like the look of green beard algae and would really like to grow some along the glass. do you have any tips for this?
Hey hey Jacob i have a serious problem... Im combating black beard Algea but no where online is there a easy solution what would be the best way to remove it or kill it in my 100 Leter guppy tank its covering all my plants!
Thanks :)
Jeremy Naude try flourish Excel
follow the directions though and Google how to use it to get rid with Excel
I thought Algae was a good thing for your fish.
It does not hurt them, but algae competes with the plants you may trying to grow and can potentially kill them. Some fish graze on algae and benefit from it. It is entirely up to the owner of the fish tank to decide whether or not to keep algae.