Great gift. Next time you go to disassemble a Kurt vise, if you unscrew ( loosen ) the center screw on the back of the movable jaw, it will lift right off. There is also a half ball in the cast iron "nut" that the center screw tightens against for adjusting how much clearance there is ( that also determines how much backlash is in the handle ) When you go to reassemble the vise, a wad of grease holds the half ball in place quite well. A new half ball is also included in the rebuild kit. I've rebuilt the Kurt vises at work quite a few times, they a very well made and have great holding power. Jeff / Jeff in PA on OWWM
First time I have ever disassembled a Kurt, and I figured both of those tips out - after the fact! I did not even know the half ball was there until I cleaned the jaw up.
Thanks for showing us how this vise comes apart. I bought one used a few years ago on lately it has developed a crunchy feel when opening the cross-screw. Now I know where to look and how to get there. Thanks for sharing. Good to know parts are available and reasonably priced.
I just restored a Kurt D60 vise a couple of weeks ago that was in nearly as bad of shape as yours Keith, love how it turned out. I hope yours turns out equally as well.
Looks like someone has gotten their money's worth out of that lead hammer... Really do enjoy your videos - this is one of my favorite channels. Good camera placement, good explanations as you go.
Being just a layman, I do enjoy your rebuild projects. Seeing the Wilton Bullet in the background, it reminded me of how disappointed you were in the shade of the masculine pink paint.
I was looking for part 2 but then noticed this is a pretty recent video. Looking forward for next videos on this subject. Yours are always excellent videos. Greetings from Brazil.
I will probably just use some off the shelf blue paint. If I wanted to, I could borrow somebody else vise and take it to Sherwin Williams and have them match it with their computer.
Hey Keith a little bit of friendly advise under the movable jaw where it attaches to the base there should be a little half ball looking button that fits up under the jaw don't loose that because he vise will not float properly. Only reason I say that is because I did the same as you and lost that little button. I just put a dab of grease to hold line back in place so it didn't keep falling out.
I bought a D688 new many years back, just began using it about 4 months ago. I just learned (from this video) a something about how it can be used. Now I know what the tapped holes are for on the back sides of the jaws.
I wouldn't grind the base unless it's not flat. These vices are made to a set height (2.875") so the can be used side by side for long pieces or multiple set ups. Other manufactures use this same height on some models. Yes the end does protrude out the back on the older models, I have a D675 that I purchased new 20 years ago.
Nice score Keith and it looks like it is in acceptable shape. I am looking forward to see what you can do with that surface grinder and a can of paint, ha ha. Expect a visit from the vice department!
Just remember that with the jaws on the outside, the only things resisting the pressure, now in tension, are those screws. This is an old model, and unlike newer ones, the jaw screws look like 3/8”, rather than the 1/2” with newer models. Tighten the jaws too much, and you will eventually stretch the screws, bend them, as the force is at the top of the removable jaws, only, and even break the screw heads off, and sometimes break the thin part of the jaw under the screw head. Yes, I’ve seen it all happen. So don’t tighten up as much as you would with the jaw plates on the inside where they’re supported by the jaws themselves. Also, you can see, by looking at the bottom of the movable jaw that he removed, that it’s not solid, as later models are. It’s weaker. So treat the old models with some care.
Something strange seems to be going on here (could be in my head though, wouldn't be the first time). As can be seen at 8:00 the screw disengages at about the same position as the vise closes (with jaws installed in the usual way). However, you would want the threaded portion of the screw to be fully engaged in the nut to obtain maximum strength, and the threaded section looks like it would be about 2 inches long. A possible explanation might be that the screw is from a shorter vise. The videos are wonderful. I have learned a lot. Many thanks!
Very cool. Easy to see where they got the name "Anglock" (boy; that doesn't look right, but I guess it is) when you take it apart. I hope you get that Kurt label off the side before it goes into the Evaporust. It would be a pity to lose the factory paint from that.
Looks like they were cutting copper or brass, judging by the color of the schmoo under that rotary base. My old Kurt is in about the same shape. Looking forward to seeing how you restore one.
Keith, just one small favor... Go back to the museum and film there on occasion. I love your vids, they have taught this old farmer so much, however, every now and again, I'd like how a steam engine would interrupt you or in the back ground there would be some Herculean repair, like that planer-matcher going on... Just an observation, because honestly that's what caught me to begin with with. I love Abom, but he never had your down home style......
Sir, first of all, good day and greetings from Brazil. Sorry for the "half off-topic" question, but as an industrial machinist student ("technician" is the correct term, i believe, what in Brazil we call "técnico em mecânica industrial") i wish to ask: What's the essential skills for a machinist? Some said that machining gears and screws in lathes and milling machines, associated calculations and making of tools are crucial. Is this true, or you add something more? Thanks in advance for your attention, and sorry for any error in my english.
If the nut were bad, would you replace it or would you insert round stock and cut new threads? What would your approach have been? I would venture a guess that the threads on the rod would also have to be replaced, recut, refurbished
Iwill bet the replacement pieces are not as good a metal tempered/hardness as your old ones. Of course you have a mohs hardness test kit? Right. Good find for free it will clamp beyond 10K pounds of force no problem.
Are you going to try to take the data plate off before the parts washer and bead blaster? Personally, I would worry that the paint or impressed letters would go away.
If it's held in place by aluminum rivets, like many tags like it, I've found a sharpened putty knife can be used like a parting chisel under the tag to remove it without damaging it. Steel rivets will need a sharp cold chisel and care not to marr the tag.
I don't remember when or for what, but I recall once when the rivet holes were drilled all the way through, I was able to punch them out from behind. This project, however, looks like tight quarters and that may prove a difficult challenge.
You really shouldn't flake an exposed way as dirt will collect in them. The flake should be on the enclosed mating surface, oil will still be retained but the dirt will be excluded. Some machines like planers have angled drain channels to remove any dirt, dust or grit that gets in with the oil. They also use rolling oil applicators or felt wicks instead of direct application like top feed oil cups so anything that gets in with the oil will settle out instead of going directly to the ways. On all my machines I stuff some felt into the oil holes or cups to filter and retain the oil so it won't just run through. They always have oil and never any dirt. The newer South Bend spindle bearings are like that, they wick the oil to the spindle. Mike (o\!/o)
Believe it or not, they are made by Allen - They are really hex keys but people call them "Allen Wrenches" because early on, they were made by Allen. You can buy them from Amazon or eBay. I am sure that you can get them from Traver's, MSC, McMaster, etc as well.
Many thanks! I'll check to see if they have them in Torx Head also. I'm new & enjoy your videos/projects very much! Currently restoring a vintage 3" Simplex vise.
Many manufacturers use them on piston/connecting rod pins and there is someone who made a special tool for installing them, however it was pretty specific to that size (approx 1" or so). In my experience, they really are not that hard at all. Just get a small pick behind it to pop it out like Keith basically did in this video and it just really pulls right out. Installation is pretty easy as well.....get one end in the grove and just kinda feed it around. In my opinion, I like them better that c-clips, e-clips, and even internal/external snap rings.
I've known about them for 40 years or so. Along with Spirol pins instead of spring pins. We always used a scribe or pick to tickle the free end out and then go around it like Keith did. A tiny flat blade screwdriver works fine. To put them back in you just reverse the process.
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.7 (1/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2rPGOyKs0VE/mqdefault.jpg)
Can never have too many Kurt vises!
bcbloc02 I bought my Kurt vise at an auction for $350 and got a free Cincinnati No.2 with it!
That makes it an extra good deal!
OR................
o0ThunderGod0o
Damn, my Kurt cost me $800, but they did throw in a 12x48 J head Bridgeport with phase converter and collet set. 😆
I would say the collets is what sealed the deal. :-)
Keith's lead hammer has seen a lot of action. Its almost time to cast a new head on it!
Getting Close!
A high precision machine shop with a well used lead hammer...…..
Great gift. Next time you go to disassemble a Kurt vise, if you unscrew ( loosen ) the center screw on the back of the movable jaw, it will lift right off. There is also a half ball in the cast iron "nut" that the center screw tightens against for adjusting how much clearance there is ( that also determines how much backlash is in the handle )
When you go to reassemble the vise, a wad of grease holds the half ball in place quite well. A new half ball is also included in the rebuild kit. I've rebuilt the Kurt vises at work quite a few times, they a very well made and have great holding power.
Jeff / Jeff in PA on OWWM
First time I have ever disassembled a Kurt, and I figured both of those tips out - after the fact! I did not even know the half ball was there until I cleaned the jaw up.
I once delivered a 2000 lb pallet load of those to a retailer in Minneapolis. Made a joke about bringing a ton more vice into the city.
Ya don't want to get picked up by the Vice Squad.
You should surface grind every face of it just because you can.
Scrape the top of the ways, but grind everything else. With an iron foundry, I'd be tempted to make a few copies too.
@@MattOGormanSmith I’ve never seen that type of vise with scraped ways. It’s not needed.
Hey @Devin Heaps, Wait till you see the hack job he does to his buddies vise in August 2021!
Thanks for showing us how this vise comes apart. I bought one used a few years ago on lately it has developed a crunchy feel when opening the cross-screw. Now I know where to look and how to get there. Thanks for sharing. Good to know parts are available and reasonably priced.
Don't lose the Half sphere inside the movable jaw.Its what gives you your down pressure on the part.Grease it good when you reassemble the vise.
I did not know it was even there until I cleaned the part up after I finished shooting the video. It was stuck in place with grease!
A diamond in the rough right there. Can't wait to see it shine.
Wow those vices are built strong.
Ah , Jim will fix it up Keith , What a great gift man . Thumbs up .. Thanks for the share !
I love these type of restoration videos
safe dial. thats what I've been looking forward to seeing finished for the last 2 years! :)
I just restored a Kurt D60 vise a couple of weeks ago that was in nearly as bad of shape as yours Keith, love how it turned out. I hope yours turns out equally as well.
Looks like someone has gotten their money's worth out of that lead hammer...
Really do enjoy your videos - this is one of my favorite channels. Good camera placement, good explanations as you go.
Fortunately, I have molds to re-cast the lead hammers so when they wear out, I just put a new head on....
Being just a layman, I do enjoy your rebuild projects. Seeing the Wilton Bullet in the background, it reminded me of how disappointed you were in the shade of the masculine pink paint.
It was real disappointing....
I was surprised to learn that this company was started in 1959! That was quite a gift; the new ones cost $524
I was looking for part 2 but then noticed this is a pretty recent video. Looking forward for next videos on this subject. Yours are always excellent videos. Greetings from Brazil.
Coming soon!
Diamond in the rough , Thumbs up Keith . Getting the exact matching paint may cause a slight problem .....Bob.
I will probably just use some off the shelf blue paint. If I wanted to, I could borrow somebody else vise and take it to Sherwin Williams and have them match it with their computer.
i am looking forward to see a fresh new grind on that kurt. It is going to look better than new
Hello, Kei Ruck here vintmachidoor. That was one fast introduction :)
Hey Keith a little bit of friendly advise under the movable jaw where it attaches to the base there should be a little half ball looking button that fits up under the jaw don't loose that because he vise will not float properly. Only reason I say that is because I did the same as you and lost that little button. I just put a dab of grease to hold line back in place so it didn't keep falling out.
I found it when I cleaned the jaw out.
I bought a D688 new many years back, just began using it about 4 months ago. I just learned (from this video) a something about how it can be used. Now I know what the tapped holes are for on the back sides of the jaws.
Nice gift Keith. Should better once it's cleaned. Thanks for posting.
Love it.
You ruin everything
Thanks. That’s exactly what I needed to know.
So glad to find your channel. Super stuff.
Glad you found time and a good use that lead hammer!
I wouldn't grind the base unless it's not flat. These vices are made to a set height (2.875") so the can be used side by side for long pieces or multiple set ups. Other manufactures use this same height on some models. Yes the end does protrude out the back on the older models, I have a D675 that I purchased new 20 years ago.
I cant wait to see next parts sir, you doing amazing job
You have a real gem there!!! Good luck!
great video thanks for taking the time to make it
Nice score Keith and it looks like it is in acceptable shape. I am looking forward to see what you can do with that surface grinder and a can of paint, ha ha.
Expect a visit from the vice department!
I do like a Rucker Restoration :) Best wishes.
Never saw a Kurt with that nut sticking out at the front. Must be an old model. Nice score Keith!
The nut had become unscrewed. That was why it was not working.
Just remember that with the jaws on the outside, the only things resisting the pressure, now in tension, are those screws. This is an old model, and unlike newer ones, the jaw screws look like 3/8”, rather than the 1/2” with newer models. Tighten the jaws too much, and you will eventually stretch the screws, bend them, as the force is at the top of the removable jaws, only, and even break the screw heads off, and sometimes break the thin part of the jaw under the screw head. Yes, I’ve seen it all happen.
So don’t tighten up as much as you would with the jaw plates on the inside where they’re supported by the jaws themselves. Also, you can see, by looking at the bottom of the movable jaw that he removed, that it’s not solid, as later models are. It’s weaker. So treat the old models with some care.
Never seen allen wrenches like that. Cool!
Something strange seems to be going on here (could be in my head though, wouldn't be the first time). As can be seen at 8:00 the screw disengages at about the same position as the vise closes (with jaws installed in the usual way). However, you would want the threaded portion of the screw to be fully engaged in the nut to obtain maximum strength, and the threaded section looks like it would be about 2 inches long. A possible explanation might be that the screw is from a shorter vise.
The videos are wonderful. I have learned a lot. Many thanks!
When the jaws are on the inside, the screw will not unscrew. When you move them to the outside, there is room for them to.
Glass bead blasting would make a perfect surface for primer and epoxy coating.
Mill unpainted areas.
Very cool. Easy to see where they got the name "Anglock" (boy; that doesn't look right, but I guess it is) when you take it apart.
I hope you get that Kurt label off the side before it goes into the Evaporust. It would be a pity to lose the factory paint from that.
That's a nice sized vise there Keith.
Great project as always, Keith. Thanks so much for sharing. I am truly hoping that can of "Masculine Pink" paint has run out. Fool me once....
I don't think I could pull that off again.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
They use spiral snap rings on some piston wrist pins. They are inside rings and are the bane of my existence...
Looks like they were cutting copper or brass, judging by the color of the schmoo under that rotary base. My old Kurt is in about the same shape. Looking forward to seeing how you restore one.
That should look like brand new when you get it done (and be as good as new too).
I once worked with a welding engineer in Schenectady, NY by the name Jim Bollinger, surely can't be the same person? If so he is a great welder.
Not sure if it is the same or not - interesting....
Keith, just one small favor... Go back to the museum and film there on occasion. I love your vids, they have taught this old farmer so much, however, every now and again, I'd like how a steam engine would interrupt you or in the back ground there would be some Herculean repair, like that planer-matcher going on... Just an observation, because honestly that's what caught me to begin with with. I love Abom, but he never had your down home style......
Don't worry - I will be back over there. In fact, probably going to shoot some stuff there tomorrow.
Sir, first of all, good day and greetings from Brazil.
Sorry for the "half off-topic" question, but as an industrial machinist student ("technician" is the correct term, i believe, what in Brazil we call "técnico em mecânica industrial") i wish to ask: What's the essential skills for a machinist? Some said that machining gears and screws in lathes and milling machines, associated calculations and making of tools are crucial. Is this true, or you add something more?
Thanks in advance for your attention, and sorry for any error in my english.
the beard blew away in the great storm of 2017...
I already have enough vices of my own and I don't need anyone giving any more! LOL!!!
Looks like you should rebuild that poor lead hammer.
I think it's about time for a new lead hammer:)
That one still has lots of life left in it!
Didn't realize the vises at my work were so old. The little retaining ring pops off if you back the movable jaw up too much.
Hey, what happened to the left hand threading project. You know, the one that halted with the discovery of the missing threading dial. ;-)
Something else came up that needed to be done before I could finish the job and I did not have time to do it in time for a video this past week.
I've made those in Berlin Wisconsin.
If the nut were bad, would you replace it or would you insert round stock and cut new threads? What would your approach have been? I would venture a guess that the threads on the rod would also have to be replaced, recut, refurbished
I would probably just order a new one in this case. You can still buy parts for that vise from Kurt and they are not unreasonable prices.
wow that is dirty. what a shame, people do not prep, just a little before store. but seems like its gonna be just fine :)
Did you ever recast the head on the lead hammer? I would like to see that video.
Iwill bet the replacement pieces are not as good a metal tempered/hardness as your old ones. Of course you have a mohs hardness test kit? Right. Good find for free it will clamp beyond 10K pounds of force no problem.
Are you going to try to take the data plate off before the parts washer and bead blaster? Personally, I would worry that the paint or impressed letters would go away.
That's the plan. I hope that I can get off without messing it up.
If it's held in place by aluminum rivets, like many tags like it, I've found a sharpened putty knife can be used like a parting chisel under the tag to remove it without damaging it. Steel rivets will need a sharp cold chisel and care not to marr the tag.
I don't remember when or for what, but I recall once when the rivet holes were drilled all the way through, I was able to punch them out from behind. This project, however, looks like tight quarters and that may prove a difficult challenge.
Keith, Are you going to grind the base so it's perfectly flat?
and scrape?
Scraping a vice would be overkill if you ask me.
there is no kill like overkill ;)
Flaking the top of the ways would look good and remind potentially careless users that it's a precision vice.
You really shouldn't flake an exposed way as dirt will collect in them. The flake should be on the enclosed mating surface, oil will still be retained but the dirt will be excluded. Some machines like planers have angled drain channels to remove any dirt, dust or grit that gets in with the oil. They also use rolling oil applicators or felt wicks instead of direct application like top feed oil cups so anything that gets in with the oil will settle out instead of going directly to the ways. On all my machines I stuff some felt into the oil holes or cups to filter and retain the oil so it won't just run through. They always have oil and never any dirt. The newer South Bend spindle bearings are like that, they wick the oil to the spindle.
Mike (o\!/o)
11:32 spiral lock ring
Next project will be "Lead hammer restoration".
Been there, done that: th-cam.com/video/P2zpt8p0_ek/w-d-xo.html
Put your vice in a vice... :)
Just curious; what brand of Allen wrenches did you use to dis-assemble the vise? Also, where did you obtain them? Many thanks!
Believe it or not, they are made by Allen - They are really hex keys but people call them "Allen Wrenches" because early on, they were made by Allen. You can buy them from Amazon or eBay. I am sure that you can get them from Traver's, MSC, McMaster, etc as well.
Many thanks! I'll check to see if they have them in Torx Head also. I'm new & enjoy your videos/projects very much! Currently restoring a vintage 3" Simplex vise.
That vise looks like it's seen a lot of flood coolant
Why are the Jaws backwards.. Guess I'll have to watch and see
your vise is "getting hammered"?
Five. Where's the ball bearing?
Keith how many square foot is your new shop?
3360
The first thing I noticed, The jaws are backwards.
Hi Keith, another youtue publsher "Linh Rima" is posting your video as if it was his own. It was posted March 24, 2018.
how's the steam locomotive?
We run it every Saturday.
grest video
can someone explain me ehat do Americans find in kurt vises?
I often find work being firmly held in Kurt vises.
Never seen a spiral retaining ring... anyone know if there is a specialty tool to install/remove them?
Many manufacturers use them on piston/connecting rod pins and there is someone who made a special tool for installing them, however it was pretty specific to that size (approx 1" or so). In my experience, they really are not that hard at all. Just get a small pick behind it to pop it out like Keith basically did in this video and it just really pulls right out. Installation is pretty easy as well.....get one end in the grove and just kinda feed it around.
In my opinion, I like them better that c-clips, e-clips, and even internal/external snap rings.
I've known about them for 40 years or so. Along with Spirol pins instead of spring pins. We always used a scribe or pick to tickle the free end out and then go around it like Keith did. A tiny flat blade screwdriver works fine. To put them back in you just reverse the process.
use them on ratchet wrenches all the time
Hahahahha he said screw and nut
looks like the jaws are backward
looks like you didnt watch all of the video :) (complete understand to get first comment)
Why buy a Vice you have a machine shop build one
surgrinder
its not a restoration if you don't surface grind the base, ways, and all of the jaws
First couple minutes were not useful. Kinda feels like padding to get to 10m