Thanks for this video. The bit at the end about the NLGI Classes answered the question I've had rattling around in the back of my head for a while now.
I just rebuilt my bike after a crash, and i added two new parts, your BSA bottom bracket and winspace Hyper D45 wheels. Im 8kg heavier since my crash and im using 15-18 less watts per around 28/29 km/hr. These wheels are crazy fast compared to my old 38mm hypers (or maybe your BB is just that good).
I used NTN LLB in my hyper 2020s. The disc side bearings were shot on both wheels in under a month. Fine if you never ride in the rain and never wash your bike. Go for LLU
There's really a place in the market for Chinese brands. Not all of us can shell out several thousands in one go. And they're noticeably improving bit by bit in the quality department. If only they hired more competent people to do their branding and names and such. I could think of a hundred other names to replace Sunpeed and Twitter...
My nuke proof horizon 29ers are made the same way. But the hub on the rear wheel has 7 bearings. 2 on the rear wheel and 3 in the free hub. 2 on the front wheel. Been riding on them now on 3 years now.
Nice video... I'm interested in the D33 version of these wheels. If only the hub had an anti-bte guard ... I'm going to change a lot of cassettes, depending on the race's profile.
Did you buy that bearing extraction tool from Reggie Scot's hub maintainance shop? You know the one where professional mechanics get all their tools from? I personally use a FOOKIN' HAMMER to knock the fooker out!
I have Winspace 38 mm wheelset. I have cracked rear rim riding over a big hole in the road. Now, I asked some dealers and also the Winspace company to provide me the spare rim. They refused me. Due this I can't recommed it.
You won't find "loose," or typical cup and cone bearings on most of today's boutique wheels. Only Shimano and Camagnolo continue to produce high quality cup and cone bearing hubs. They're almost all radial contact cartridge bearings like the ones in these wheels. Once they're shot, they must be replaced; no adjustment option. One of the few exceptions are Chris King that utilize angular contact cartridge bearings. These do require setting preload and are adjustable over time. If cared for properly, King's bearings are designed to last the life of the hubs. If your Campy grease is still in good shape, keep using it. Still considered excellent, but does lack some of the waterproof qualities of synthetic greases.
hey Hambini. thank you for the nice vid! is there any chance you can specify the size of that little spacer from the rear wheel? I got a pair of D45's, and it appears that the previous owner lost that spacer :(
When you remove the bearings like you did on this new wheelset, why isn't it recommended to put them back in? And what is the difference you can expect from LLU bearings vs LLB In terms kilometer riding on both for example in normal dry condition?
The balls are much harder than the races, removing them by applying force through the rolling elements puts pits into the raceways, you'll end up with vibration and often it loosens or cracks the bearing cage which results in higher lateral load or instantaneous failure. That might sound extreme, but I have worked on 3 insurance claims where the bike shop did that.
It looks like a brand new/unused wheels, so not sure if you'll have an opinion, but: How good or bad are the factory fitted bearings? Would you recommend replacing them right away? There seems to be a fair few individuals saying that the previous generation of these wheels was great - apart from the bearings, that gave up after a few rides.
Did you reinstall the bearings dry? I tend to use a smear of NLGI II grease inside the housing or sometimes Loctite 641. I heard somewhere that Loctite 641 prevents any movement due to vibration but not sure how to measure that.
Bearing retaining compound is needed only if the interference fit is loose or non-existent. Most hubs only need grease for bearing installation. I recently worked on a Tune KillHill & ClimbHill CL hubset that actually calls for the use of bearing retaining compound.
The way the straight pull spokes fit into the hub from the side remains a problem. Particularly on the front hub. If you're unlucky enough to get tangled up with another riders pedal, skewer or through axle and lose a few spokes, the wheel de-tensions and the remaining spokes simply fall out of the hub. Complete wheel failure. It's happened and it's not pretty.
Morning from Thailand Mr Hambini. Wonder if you could get hold of a Nich Cycling frameset and check it out. Some good riders I know here use them, and two frames - legend4 and faith2 look decent. Would be great to know is they are worth the 1200-1700quid asked. Cheers, and bang on!
So a packaging like the right one SKF is 100% fake? Then i bought one. BTW where would you buy your bearings? The online bike shops often offer only either Enduro Bearings or some expensive ceramic vodoo.
How often do you service your bikes and what conditions are you riding them in? My personal opinion, is that for most people NLGI 2 is best. But, just like with the bearings, it's a last vs. go fast preference. With the '0' you will find that it dries up every 3-4 weeks and components need re-greasing - multiply that by the number of bikes you own - so you may as well get 5 gallons ;-) As for recommendations on '2', I personally like Lucasoil white lithium - seems good enough quality and I like it white as it helps with visually inspecting condition.
Hi , do u know the freehub size for the d45 wheel ? i would like to change, but i don’t know what size should buy it , cause a lot of the size for freehub
@@Hambini thanks for provide information , however , i would like to know the freehub body size , cause i want to change from xdr freehub to xd freehub for xd cassette, it can use the spacer on xdr hub for xd cassetee , but i want to test another band freehub , so would you have any date for xdr body ?
I checked after your email. They came back and said they had a mid cycle change along with the angle of the spokes to avoid them rubbing. So there is more than one bearing setup for the previous gen wheels. I've updated the blog post
Hambini, can you please do an aero test on these hoops? I've had both the Hyper65s and the 67s (in rim brake) and my average speeds noticeably dropped going to the 67s. Theres a circular road round Centennial Park thats 3.7km long here in Sydney, Australia. I'll cruise around doing 6 laps at 160 watts in 41-42 mins at about 31.7-32.5km/h on the 65s, but on the 67s my average dropped about 0.5-1km/kh. This is on the same tires, same bike, wearing the same kit. Can they really be that much slower?
I own the 65 in rim , now getting the D67, disc brake set. But I can't compare the two because it will be on a different bike ... Perhaps you should try wider tyres, the new hypers were designed for wider tyres . I did watch cam Nicolas compare they hyper 50s and 45s he also reported a slightly slower ,on the new wheels
Quick question: I know surface was clean and barely used. BUT wouldn’t it be optimal to use some grease to help inserting the bearings and for easier future removal?
Yes, metal to metal surfaces are almost always coated with grease or anti-seize or a combination of the two. Sure, most of it wipes off when installing, but the thin film that remains is always good.
actually, found the same q below where they said a small bit is already in there - so, if i do grease it a bit (wiped out the inside) i assume it is ok/good idea...?
@@Hambini OK. But then it’s necessary to have one bearing as benchmark and hope it’s original. I think for ppl who have multiple bearings going through their hand per year, it’s no problem to verify, but some occasional DIYers may have problem to compare if they just bought 1 set of bearings for their wheels and wanna check if it’s original. Have nothing to compare it against. So scratching or counting balls won’t help much. I will keep some old bearings that lasted long (assuming not fake) for scratch test.
@@Hambini I’m subscribed to both your channels so i wouldn’t be surprised to learn that some Patreon supporters are supporting your 2 accounts! Hence the leak…! There’s a Hambini mole amongst Peak’s Supporters for sure!
I bought a set of winspace Lun wheels only 20 months ago & they don't keep replacement rims for them. They only discontinued the line a month or so ago. Seems a bit garbage to me. A real shame as I love the wheels but the rim is getting worn on the rear.
I'd like to see a 5 year old's comparison of the $7k Meilenstein Lightweight all carbon wheels and Giant's equivalent Cadex carbon wheels with carbon spokes, costing $3k.
As for your grease recommendations, I'm using a #2 NLGI marine grease in my cup-and-cone bearings only. You wouldn't want to use a #0 grease, would you?
Yes I do. by virtue of fake anything is basically a lie. A bit like Portuguese university numbers for Absolute Black - I think they are fake and made up and so do a lot of other people.
thought you might review these MFs.. also.. wondering if you will sell a BB at a price reduced relative to the average salary in a country? I'm earning in Thailand, but as with all products, the price being the same here as in the UK or Zurich doesn't really scream fairness (nor affordability) to me!
Sheesh, just turn over the wheel when removing the freehub body to reduce the possibility of losing pawls or springs! Says the guy who just lost a tiny pawl spring last week on my I9 hub! What the F@^$ do I know?!!!!
I did rather enjoy your video yet wondered about whether I should still screw myself, and am not sure I have the right tool for it. This is a very risquee video, talking about kissing the lips of the hub, the bearing being rock hard. But you probably do not notice it as a five year old, unless that is binary and you are 101.
Some people may think this was a coordinated upload. Not so, pure coincidence!
Your (hilarious) intro music suggests otherwise :)
They also think we rim each other.
😂 wrong picture you put in my mind. Let’s stay in the bike world. Hairdressers to wait outside ‚til end of the vid. Cheers 🙌🏽
you mean that mechanic that ripped Hambini a new hole?
@@Hambini He was listing things that are NOT true. Use separate comment for facts please
Thanks Hambini for sorting out my BB issue. Hands down best customer service.
Hambini flexing his hub bearing removal skills
I love a good teardown … tear inducing at times 😅❤
I would never be able to get it back together properly. Also... "Make sure the tube is in the right place and stiff". That's always great advice IMHO.
Thanks for this video. The bit at the end about the NLGI Classes answered the question I've had rattling around in the back of my head for a while now.
Great video, I just finished pulling all the bearing with out a problem using this video.
As you show, things always go better with more balls.
I just rebuilt my bike after a crash, and i added two new parts, your BSA bottom bracket and winspace Hyper D45 wheels. Im 8kg heavier since my crash and im using 15-18 less watts per around 28/29 km/hr. These wheels are crazy fast compared to my old 38mm hypers (or maybe your BB is just that good).
ahh an OG hambini vid, nice.
What's the build quality of this D67 unit you tore down? Are you noticing reliability and consistency in their products?
I LOOK forward to more content 🤓
It's about TIME for more content
I used NTN LLB in my hyper 2020s. The disc side bearings were shot on both wheels in under a month. Fine if you never ride in the rain and never wash your bike. Go for LLU
I'd agree with that and anyone who uses Muc Off.
@@Hambini what do you recommend cleaning with?
Water and a cloth
I need to see a Hambini roast of the Sunpeed (sic) brand. I imagine it will turn out to be extremely good somehow.
There's really a place in the market for Chinese brands. Not all of us can shell out several thousands in one go. And they're noticeably improving bit by bit in the quality department. If only they hired more competent people to do their branding and names and such. I could think of a hundred other names to replace Sunpeed and Twitter...
I've noticed that your hair is always great ;) 😉
how was the performance of the ceramic bearings from winspace comparing to ntn's?
Sweet, another destructive video from my favourite five year old!
Edit: needs more bashing.
"it gets a bit even more worse than that" is basically the mantra of the bike industry right now
We need to see your review on your new gravel bike
Omg my mum’s friend saw you get on the ferry I looked your vids
is there a way to contact NTN or SKF to confirm bearing I bought are genuine ?
You’re getting reamed again by your mate, Reginald on bearing removal.
If I look back on this from afar, he's basically using my name to increase the hits on his channel.
@@Hambiniyou did factually err in some points though, which he pointed out in his new video. Do you expect him to just leave it?
Excellent video. So my rear hub just came off when changing cassette. Watching your video I couldn't see which way the pawls fitted as most fell out?
What are you doing with so much sand Mr. Hambini? Adding it to bearings?
My nuke proof horizon 29ers are made the same way. But the hub on the rear wheel has 7 bearings. 2 on the rear wheel and 3 in the free hub. 2 on the front wheel. Been riding on them now on 3 years now.
Nice video... I'm interested in the D33 version of these wheels. If only the hub had an anti-bte guard ... I'm going to change a lot of cassettes, depending on the race's profile.
please do a review about the new l-twoo erx groupset
Power point starts at 12:35
Did you buy that bearing extraction tool from Reggie Scot's hub maintainance shop? You know the one where professional mechanics get all their tools from? I personally use a FOOKIN' HAMMER to knock the fooker out!
What do they say the PEN IS mightier than the S Word
I have Winspace 38 mm wheelset. I have cracked rear rim riding over a big hole in the road. Now, I asked some dealers and also the Winspace company to provide me the spare rim. They refused me. Due this I can't recommed it.
Hi Hambini, do Lun Hyper wheels fit bike frames with 12mm thru axles? This is a detail I can’t seem to find on any of their website materials.
9:18 but i love it when theyre unstable!
What about loose vs caged bearings? What is the rating of old fashioned Campy grease? I still have 1/2 kg of it.
You won't find "loose," or typical cup and cone bearings on most of today's boutique wheels. Only Shimano and Camagnolo continue to produce high quality cup and cone bearing hubs. They're almost all radial contact cartridge bearings like the ones in these wheels. Once they're shot, they must be replaced; no adjustment option. One of the few exceptions are Chris King that utilize angular contact cartridge bearings. These do require setting preload and are adjustable over time. If cared for properly, King's bearings are designed to last the life of the hubs.
If your Campy grease is still in good shape, keep using it. Still considered excellent, but does lack some of the waterproof qualities of synthetic greases.
hey Hambini. thank you for the nice vid! is there any chance you can specify the size of that little spacer from the rear wheel? I got a pair of D45's, and it appears that the previous owner lost that spacer :(
O.5mm
Yeah yeah asking for a friend and all that 😉
Hambini, @1:26 you said dont lose the spacer, however my lbs lost mine, any idea the measurements of that spacer? is it a generic enough one?
When you remove the bearings like you did on this new wheelset, why isn't it recommended to put them back in?
And what is the difference you can expect from LLU bearings vs LLB In terms kilometer riding on both for example in normal dry condition?
The balls are much harder than the races, removing them by applying force through the rolling elements puts pits into the raceways, you'll end up with vibration and often it loosens or cracks the bearing cage which results in higher lateral load or instantaneous failure. That might sound extreme, but I have worked on 3 insurance claims where the bike shop did that.
It looks like a brand new/unused wheels, so not sure if you'll have an opinion, but: How good or bad are the factory fitted bearings? Would you recommend replacing them right away? There seems to be a fair few individuals saying that the previous generation of these wheels was great - apart from the bearings, that gave up after a few rides.
You'll see what happened in my review but there is a reason I had to dismantle it.
What NLGI 0 would you recommend? I cant find it anywhere in my hometown shops
I have a hyper 38 and the brake track was damaged during tire installation can a rim like this be repaired?
Do you have a chinese-made carbon gravel wheel recommendation? Perhaps something similar to the Zipp 303 Firecrest? Thanks!
Seems like the hairdresser was a little aggressive this time. Nice haircut.
Btw…why no Deerobust or Ryet wheels yet ? Or Advan. Pretty interesting releases lately
Mine is missing the damn spacer inbetween wheelhub and freehub where can I get one?
Did you reinstall the bearings dry? I tend to use a smear of NLGI II grease inside the housing or sometimes Loctite 641. I heard somewhere that Loctite 641 prevents any movement due to vibration but not sure how to measure that.
Bearing retaining compound is needed only if the interference fit is loose or non-existent. Most hubs only need grease for bearing installation. I recently worked on a Tune KillHill & ClimbHill CL hubset that actually calls for the use of bearing retaining compound.
The way the straight pull spokes fit into the hub from the side remains a problem. Particularly on the front hub. If you're unlucky enough to get tangled up with another riders pedal, skewer or through axle and lose a few spokes, the wheel de-tensions and the remaining spokes simply fall out of the hub. Complete wheel failure. It's happened and it's not pretty.
Hi Hambini you recommended in the past some good grease I think was mobil but can't find it now can you recall the it ? thanks cheers
Mobil xhp
Morning from Thailand Mr Hambini. Wonder if you could get hold of a Nich Cycling frameset and check it out. Some good riders I know here use them, and two frames - legend4 and faith2 look decent. Would be great to know is they are worth the 1200-1700quid asked. Cheers, and bang on!
So a packaging like the right one SKF is 100% fake? Then i bought one. BTW where would you buy your bearings? The online bike shops often offer only either Enduro Bearings or some expensive ceramic vodoo.
www.hambini.com where else!
Are there any good NLGI 0 greases that come in a small squeeze tube? I don't need 5 gallons of the stuff.
How often do you service your bikes and what conditions are you riding them in? My personal opinion, is that for most people NLGI 2 is best. But, just like with the bearings, it's a last vs. go fast preference. With the '0' you will find that it dries up every 3-4 weeks and components need re-greasing - multiply that by the number of bikes you own - so you may as well get 5 gallons ;-) As for recommendations on '2', I personally like Lucasoil white lithium - seems good enough quality and I like it white as it helps with visually inspecting condition.
Hi , do u know the freehub size for the d45 wheel ? i would like to change, but i don’t know what size should buy it , cause a lot of the size for freehub
6903 x 5 6803 x 1
@@Hambini thanks for provide information , however , i would like to know the freehub body size , cause i want to change from xdr freehub to xd freehub for xd cassette, it can use the spacer on xdr hub for xd cassetee , but i want to test another band freehub , so would you have any date for xdr body ?
I hope you got the bearing replacement order correct on these D67 bacause you made a cock up on the old D50 disc wheels.
I checked after your email. They came back and said they had a mid cycle change along with the angle of the spokes to avoid them rubbing. So there is more than one bearing setup for the previous gen wheels. I've updated the blog post
The Wright Brothers hated the bike industry so bad, they invented powered flight
Hambini, can you please do an aero test on these hoops? I've had both the Hyper65s and the 67s (in rim brake) and my average speeds noticeably dropped going to the 67s. Theres a circular road round Centennial Park thats 3.7km long here in Sydney, Australia. I'll cruise around doing 6 laps at 160 watts in 41-42 mins at about 31.7-32.5km/h on the 65s, but on the 67s my average dropped about 0.5-1km/kh. This is on the same tires, same bike, wearing the same kit. Can they really be that much slower?
Peak torque says that these should be faster according to his data
I own the 65 in rim , now getting the D67, disc brake set. But I can't compare the two because it will be on a different bike ... Perhaps you should try wider tyres, the new hypers were designed for wider tyres . I did watch cam Nicolas compare they hyper 50s and 45s he also reported a slightly slower ,on the new wheels
@@rolandcolavizza5368 Peak Torque reported them as faster
Quick question: I know surface was clean and barely used. BUT wouldn’t it be optimal to use some grease to help inserting the bearings and for easier future removal?
I don't think it's that important
Yes, metal to metal surfaces are almost always coated with grease or anti-seize or a combination of the two. Sure, most of it wipes off when installing, but the thin film that remains is always good.
to anyone: should i ever put a bit of grease around the outer ring of the bearing when installing (or around the inside of the hub or axel?). thanks
actually, found the same q below where they said a small bit is already in there - so, if i do grease it a bit (wiped out the inside) i assume it is ok/good idea...?
What’s the best way to check if bearings are fake. I have some NTN’s ready to fit. Clues on the packaging or remove the seals?
scratch test and then take the seals off. The packaging is easily copied. The material and the internals are not as easy to copy.
@@Hambini how does one do a scratchtest of the bearings and then compare real VS fake?
Fake is often much softer
@@Hambini OK. But then it’s necessary to have one bearing as benchmark and hope it’s original.
I think for ppl who have multiple bearings going through their hand per year, it’s no problem to verify, but some occasional DIYers may have problem to compare if they just bought 1 set of bearings for their wheels and wanna check if it’s original. Have nothing to compare it against. So scratching or counting balls won’t help much. I will keep some old bearings that lasted long (assuming not fake) for scratch test.
When is Hambonehead gonna learn that the correct way of pulling out bike bearings is to bore them out using a hundred thousand dollar boring machine.
can you please rectify your mistake regarding the wheel bearing removal saga... I used to respect you... thankyou.
peak torque you geek
I hope you used a bearing press you naughty boy.
Don't forget to reuse the second hand bearings.
Peak posted first. Hambini has 0 personality and just follows Peak 😌
I don't think he did, this has been up for 3 weeks for patreon subscribers.
@@Hambini maybe we should ask HIS Patreon supporters then 🤓
@@SamuelBlackMetalRider That's a fair comment and not one I had considered.
@@Hambini I’m subscribed to both your channels so i wouldn’t be surprised to learn that some Patreon supporters are supporting your 2 accounts! Hence the leak…! There’s a Hambini mole amongst Peak’s Supporters for sure!
The peak review covers totally different aspects of the wheels in question.
I bought a set of winspace Lun wheels only 20 months ago & they don't keep replacement rims for them. They only discontinued the line a month or so ago.
Seems a bit garbage to me. A real shame as I love the wheels but the rim is getting worn on the rear.
Tear it down for the team dog. Took that shit apart like a man thats been in jail.
I'd like to see a 5 year old's comparison of the $7k Meilenstein Lightweight all carbon wheels and Giant's equivalent Cadex carbon wheels with carbon spokes, costing $3k.
Based on your logic, I should get a steel fleshlight.
I prefer the lean rear wheel against a wall, then accidentally knock it over and the freehub drops out method of freehub removal.
As for your grease recommendations, I'm using a #2 NLGI marine grease in my cup-and-cone bearings only. You wouldn't want to use a #0 grease, would you?
@Hambini for how long you gonn be age 5 ? hug ?
Seeing the hammer being used in the video, some nerd bike mechanic may be triggered
Speaking of grease, what do you suggest for my ultegra peddles? need the lube but what them so they aren't too loose. You know what I mean?
KY
@@Hambini That's what I thought, great to get your approval.
Like the way you have the containers in the background stacked in order of the Indian flag or was that just a coincidence?
You are too observant
Name and shame the bearing supplier so we can avoid them.
This is one of them designsolutionsmag.co.uk/skf-seizes-counterfeit-bearings-in-west-yorkshire-raid/ NTN are investigating the other one.
@@Hambini over 6 years ago
Do you think fake NTN is worse than Enduro bearings?
Yes I do. by virtue of fake anything is basically a lie. A bit like Portuguese university numbers for Absolute Black - I think they are fake and made up and so do a lot of other people.
Can't use Reginald Scot's method to pull the bearing here 😂
He'll probably claim I did it wrong and find an elaborate way to generate "Hambini" clicks for his channel.
More response videos! 📽️. Love to see a good, "pull the thing harder" response video! 😂
@@Hambini you actually asked him to make a video demonstrating the bearing puller 🤷♂️
You actually can, but why bother watching Reginald's video anyway right?
thought you might review these MFs..
also.. wondering if you will sell a BB at a price reduced relative to the average salary in a country? I'm earning in Thailand, but as with all products, the price being the same here as in the UK or Zurich doesn't really scream fairness (nor affordability) to me!
Winspace no longer provides free replacement spikes as of March 2024
No such thing as a heavy duty lockring. Use the correct corresponding cassette lockrings ALWAYS. Period
If ya don't... You'll find out.
Cheers
大哥你开场白声音能小点吗？人都吓死了
Sheesh, just turn over the wheel when removing the freehub body to reduce the possibility of losing pawls or springs! Says the guy who just lost a tiny pawl spring last week on my I9 hub! What the F@^$ do I know?!!!!
All carbon frames and wheels are worthless after a number of years. Give me metal anytime
Looking forward to the apology video from the "bike mechanic" who tried to roast you over your bearing extraction techniques!
I'm waiting for his explanation into why it's okay to reuse the bearings.
Maguy.......Why you need to descend into tit-for-tat?
your full it your bottom brackets are over priced you as bad as the industry and you need a bearing puller i know how many of as is going to buy one
I did rather enjoy your video yet wondered about whether I should still screw myself, and am not sure I have the right tool for it.
This is a very risquee video, talking about kissing the lips of the hub, the bearing being rock hard. But you probably do not notice it as a five year old, unless that is binary and you are 101.
Jeeez this is so tedious….I’m out…
That's what he said!
NLGI 0 for the freehub pawls ?
You can use whatever you like provided they don't stick