Thanks, pleased it was helpful, worth noting that it’s more important on more lightly built boats where hulls are thinner and can flex more. On older 70’s boats where the hull are thick and don’t flex so much it’s far less important
Thank you for the effort here. So many videos shortcut the process, assuming Imy guess0 at time details are generally known. As a auito mechanic I've seen this in so many videos. As someone new to fiberglass, knowing next to nothing, the deep dives are gold.
I did not know that CSM had chemical in it, now I understand why it sometimes ends up a gooey mess when I try pushing it about too much with a brush/roller, so thanks for that I learnt something again.
Great channel. Of course, the 600 g/sqm CSM will take much more resin then 150 g/sqm, so resin requirement comparison between CSM and 1708 should be taken with reserve.
@@RefitandSail Sure, weight for weight, but you never said that in the video, people that are learning might not understand that. Where do you get the styrene? I am at Dublin and can't find it in fiberglass stores, they tell me to use acetone but I've heard before it is not a best idea. I got cheap 1979 Aquafibre 30 project boat a year ago, pulled everything out (they used MDF for the floor and many other things were done really badly on it), building it into a house boat. Cheers!
@@mladenmanda103ah sorry, I don’t script this stuff so words just fall out of my brain and mouth 😂 Maybe try east coast fibreglass supplies in the uk and see if they will ship to you.
Hi George, very, very good tutorial! But the location you chose and the lamination are among the more difficult to perform. You should have mentioned that. For beginners, the protection of plastic film is essential. It takes a long time to learn how to handle everything to the level you demonstrate.
For anyone suggesting thinning polyester resin with acetone, i think the only reasonable thing to do is to is to ask them to lay down their tools and leave the boatyard. 😅 Only styrene for thinning poly- and vinylesters.
Between you and Andy over at boatworks today, I really feel like I’m ready to take in these types of projects when I actually do get my boat. I’d love for said boat to be a Contessa 32, but they’re not exactly common here in the US…
Edit:Saw you aswered this question below... I have a question regarding the sequence you are putting the fibreglass mats on: On the drawing you went large to small, in the boat you are going small to large. Did you draw it different than exection or do I mix something up?
10:06. There is someone I watch who has madea catamaran from scratch out of laminate. He advocates putting the smallest layer of glass in a laminate closest to the hull. Then he puts progressively larger pieces on top. By doing it that way, each layer is bonded to the hull. If it is done in the opposite way, e.g. largest layer first and smaller layers on top of that, then the only layer that is directly attached to the hull is the first layer. The difference might be small but it does make sense to me.
Alright, I wrote that before I watched the whole viseo. I tend to do that. And I can see you stepped the layers just like the guy making the catamaran.
Thanks for the video George. I have to do this exact job to my Co32 and Im a complete fiberglass novice, I would try hire a pro but where i live there are none available but I do also like a challenge. Can you recommend any books on glassing and also what are the cons of using epoxy for this job?
That is something I do regularly, but only when I need to put the glass into an awkward or difficult to get to spot so wetting out the glass and then applying the glass afterwards is easier. In an easy to get to place as per the video I just wet out the glass in its intended location
Hey George... Do you intentionally key the surface and do the initial wet-out with the board in place? Would it not be better to key the surface and wet the board out outside?
I could have done that (maybe slightly more easily) with the plywood on the bench but it’s a fairly small area so not much difference in doing it in place really. Also trying to keep it all in front of a camera is a factor when working.
Many thanks, I had considered that but I have a waiting list of clients so should be ok. The reality is that those that want to diy Will diy, those that don’t have the time/skills/desire pay people like me. I take the view that if people want to work on their own boats as I have always done then at least they should have access to decent info on how to do a job properly. Pleased you enjoy the videos
I think that someone else has picked on that, but your drawing at the start of the video shows the larger width of matting being laid first, followed by a narrower one etc. and the explanation about the taper. What was actually done is the opposite - which one is the best?
You are the first to mention this but you are right, thats where not planning the videos (and just talking as I work) let’s me down as I drew the diagram with the wide glass first and then laid the narrower glass first on the boat. In reality there are arguments for and against both options and people will argue that one is better than the other. In reality I very much doubt it makes much difference and when I have seen bonding fail (which is a lot) it’s unlikely that either method would have made a blind bit of difference.
@@RefitandSail that's great, thanks for your reply; both make sense to me in their own ways! What I'm getting from this is that no matter what, I should be using different sizes for each layer in order to avoid that 'hard point'. Loving your channel BTW, very informative. Keep on the good work!
Do you ever have a view on bonding issues to old laminate/wood/paint with polyester vs resin? Sailing Uma recently had an issue with a model they made. They did use polyester onto recently laid peelply’ed GF. Seems their 2nd attempt was better with acetone and grinding.
Not seen the video in question so can’t comment but proper preparation of the surface and then thorough cleaning is essential along with environmental conditions and technique. I think those guys are pretty decent now are repairs having done so many and learned along the way although some of the very early-days repairs were interesting I seem to recall. Was hoping to meet up with them last year but timing didn’t quite work.
Interestingly, George actually commented about old fiber boat skins. It's impossible to get a chemical bond to a 40 years old boat, thus it's all about surface roughness and cleaning. Eventually, Uma did found that out. I would have used epoxy for its better bonding properties.
When you tear the strips of glass like that, do you get fibers irritating your skin like insulation glass fibers? How do you clean off the fin roller when you're done?
just about to fit one fwd of the hatch garage on a clients boat, other options are fwd of the mast on deck, hanging off the push pit or over the top of the sprayhood (spray dodger if you are American). Lots of options, could even make an arch at the stern but that adds a fair amount of weight and not so nice to look at
Why polyester and not epoxy? Surely the bond to wood with polyester is very weak. With all that labour, why economise with the resin. And yes I know that the labour content will also rise with epoxy.
The pieces of glass on the drawing are wrong way, smallest pieces goes first then increasing the size, not the way you shown? That is because there would be no use of smaller pieces above bigger ones, they would only make bond to glass below, instead onto the hull.
I love this channel - professional boatwork - with British humor / lightness ☀️👍
Thanks
Perfect timing. Tomorrow is plywood laminating day.
Perfect!
That's weird, I was just thinking about you George, I looked and a new episode had appeared. Ace!
Perfect timing then!
Absolutely the best explanation of tapering around bulkheads, thank you so much!
Thanks, pleased it was helpful, worth noting that it’s more important on more lightly built boats where hulls are thinner and can flex more. On older 70’s boats where the hull are thick and don’t flex so much it’s far less important
Congrats on 10K subs!
Thanks!
Thank you for the effort here. So many videos shortcut the process, assuming Imy guess0 at time details are generally known. As a auito mechanic I've seen this in so many videos. As someone new to fiberglass, knowing next to nothing, the deep dives are gold.
I did not know that CSM had chemical in it, now I understand why it sometimes ends up a gooey mess when I try pushing it about too much with a brush/roller, so thanks for that I learnt something again.
Indeed, the binder in csm dissolves with styrene which is why it is generally not used with epoxy resin
Thank you so much George! Yet another video packed with skills with a delightful british accent.
Nice one George, I seem to be a week out with you, I was repairing bulkhead joints last week. But it’s good to see I was almost bang on. 👍
ruler==straight edge!!
Great channel. Of course, the 600 g/sqm CSM will take much more resin then 150 g/sqm, so resin requirement comparison between CSM and 1708 should be taken with reserve.
Due to the nature of the cloth weight for weight CSM takes considerably more resin to wet out than woven glass.
@@RefitandSail Sure, weight for weight, but you never said that in the video, people that are learning might not understand that. Where do you get the styrene? I am at Dublin and can't find it in fiberglass stores, they tell me to use acetone but I've heard before it is not a best idea. I got cheap 1979 Aquafibre 30 project boat a year ago, pulled everything out (they used MDF for the floor and many other things were done really badly on it), building it into a house boat. Cheers!
@@mladenmanda103ah sorry, I don’t script this stuff so words just fall out of my brain and mouth 😂
Maybe try east coast fibreglass supplies in the uk and see if they will ship to you.
Hi George, very, very good tutorial! But the location you chose and the lamination are among the more difficult to perform. You should have mentioned that. For beginners, the protection of plastic film is essential. It takes a long time to learn how to handle everything to the level you demonstrate.
For anyone suggesting thinning polyester resin with acetone, i think the only reasonable thing to do is to is to ask them to lay down their tools and leave the boatyard. 😅
Only styrene for thinning poly- and vinylesters.
You’re right, acetone was old school
Between you and Andy over at boatworks today, I really feel like I’m ready to take in these types of projects when I actually do get my boat. I’d love for said boat to be a Contessa 32, but they’re not exactly common here in the US…
Thanks for the kind comment.
Edit:Saw you aswered this question below...
I have a question regarding the sequence you are putting the fibreglass mats on: On the drawing you went large to small, in the boat you are going small to large. Did you draw it different than exection or do I mix something up?
Yeah, error on my part there, you are the second person to ask but I think you have now seen my answer on the other comment. Oops
thank you for making these video, its been so helpful in my progress and process. thank you thank you!
You are very welcome. Do like and subscribe to stay tuned.
Bonjour de la France, tu fais un excellent travail et je vais m’en inspirer. Bonne continuation.
Merci!
Great in depth explanation, thank you 👌🏻
Great work George.
Thanks 😊
Absolutely awesome episode! Thank you !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video another master class.
Really great video, thanks!
Great job very helpful 😊
10:06. There is someone I watch who has madea catamaran from scratch out of laminate. He advocates putting the smallest layer of glass in a laminate closest to the hull. Then he puts progressively larger pieces on top. By doing it that way, each layer is bonded to the hull. If it is done in the opposite way, e.g. largest layer first and smaller layers on top of that, then the only layer that is directly attached to the hull is the first layer. The difference might be small but it does make sense to me.
Alright, I wrote that before I watched the whole viseo. I tend to do that. And I can see you stepped the layers just like the guy making the catamaran.
There are arguments for and against each option to be fair
As it all sets into one piece I can't see what difference it would make, more importantly as the man said, it needs to be properly prepared.
Thanks for the video George. I have to do this exact job to my Co32 and Im a complete fiberglass novice, I would try hire a pro but where i live there are none available but I do also like a challenge. Can you recommend any books on glassing and also what are the cons of using epoxy for this job?
Please let us know your experience wetting out all the glass layers separately and then adding them in one go to save time. Thanks.
That is something I do regularly, but only when I need to put the glass into an awkward or difficult to get to spot so wetting out the glass and then applying the glass afterwards is easier. In an easy to get to place as per the video I just wet out the glass in its intended location
is their a benefit in putting a series of holes in the board so both half's of fibre glass will bond through
I would be interesting to try and test in a controlled environment but it has been shown that this method is strong enough for the majority of boats
Hey George... Do you intentionally key the surface and do the initial wet-out with the board in place? Would it not be better to key the surface and wet the board out outside?
I could have done that (maybe slightly more easily) with the plywood on the bench but it’s a fairly small area so not much difference in doing it in place really. Also trying to keep it all in front of a camera is a factor when working.
Great video as always George! If you do too many of them you'll be doing yourself out of a job 😉
Many thanks, I had considered that but I have a waiting list of clients so should be ok. The reality is that those that want to diy Will diy, those that don’t have the time/skills/desire pay people like me. I take the view that if people want to work on their own boats as I have always done then at least they should have access to decent info on how to do a job properly.
Pleased you enjoy the videos
I think that someone else has picked on that, but your drawing at the start of the video shows the larger width of matting being laid first, followed by a narrower one etc. and the explanation about the taper. What was actually done is the opposite - which one is the best?
You are the first to mention this but you are right, thats where not planning the videos (and just talking as I work) let’s me down as I drew the diagram with the wide glass first and then laid the narrower glass first on the boat. In reality there are arguments for and against both options and people will argue that one is better than the other. In reality I very much doubt it makes much difference and when I have seen bonding fail (which is a lot) it’s unlikely that either method would have made a blind bit of difference.
@@RefitandSail that's great, thanks for your reply; both make sense to me in their own ways! What I'm getting from this is that no matter what, I should be using different sizes for each layer in order to avoid that 'hard point'. Loving your channel BTW, very informative. Keep on the good work!
Do you ever have a view on bonding issues to old laminate/wood/paint with polyester vs resin? Sailing Uma recently had an issue with a model they made. They did use polyester onto recently laid peelply’ed GF. Seems their 2nd attempt was better with acetone and grinding.
Not seen the video in question so can’t comment but proper preparation of the surface and then thorough cleaning is essential along with environmental conditions and technique. I think those guys are pretty decent now are repairs having done so many and learned along the way although some of the very early-days repairs were interesting I seem to recall. Was hoping to meet up with them last year but timing didn’t quite work.
Interestingly, George actually commented about old fiber boat skins. It's impossible to get a chemical bond to a 40 years old boat, thus it's all about surface roughness and cleaning. Eventually, Uma did found that out. I would have used epoxy for its better bonding properties.
When you tear the strips of glass like that, do you get fibers irritating your skin like insulation glass fibers? How do you clean off the fin roller when you're done?
Tearing the glass does not irritate the skin because the glass is much coarser than that you would use for installation. Tools are cleaned in acetone.
Could you put solar panels on a contessa 32?
Of course have done it a number of times
@@RefitandSail where?
just about to fit one fwd of the hatch garage on a clients boat, other options are fwd of the mast on deck, hanging off the push pit or over the top of the sprayhood (spray dodger if you are American). Lots of options, could even make an arch at the stern but that adds a fair amount of weight and not so nice to look at
What is the name of the fillet?
Free fix?
Thanks
Freefix is the name of the product used for bonding and filleting in this video. Seems to work very nicely.
Why polyester and not epoxy? Surely the bond to wood with polyester is very weak. With all that labour, why economise with the resin. And yes I know that the labour content will also rise with epoxy.
The pieces of glass on the drawing are wrong way, smallest pieces goes first then increasing the size, not the way you shown? That is because there would be no use of smaller pieces above bigger ones, they would only make bond to glass below, instead onto the hull.
Absolutely right, I put the smaller widths on first, well spotted.
should change the channel name to Contessa Whisperer
Could do, there are a lot of co32’s that come and go but other boats too. Have boats from three different manufacturers in for work just now.