Another terrific video. I actually liked the fact that you did all the procedures in real time. Helps me understand how long the process takes. Also thanks for the torque settings. My parts arrive on Monday.
Struggled with getting enough leverage on the pry bar when tightening the big bottom nut. Resorted to using an 11mm wrench on the bottom of the ball joint. Everything worked out perfectly. Thanks again!
8mm Allen-screw broke. Couldn't use your method,8:11. Trying to remove shaft. Not working. Bought a balljoint separator, but screw of the ball point was too long for this tool.Cut it with a proxxon mini flex. Still not working. Cut the ball point for a minor mass, when cooling. Only a stump remains. Using a hammer with a counter mass, hammering around the joint. Heating up the joint, attaching the ballpoint seperator and using cooling spray - 40°C, increase pressure. OK. Maybe this helps for the same situation. Thank you very much for this excellent tutorial.
Sorry to hear about the struggle you have had with the ball joint. Most of the times they pop out even quicker than what it did in my video.... and sometimes, like in your case, they just don't want to come out. =(
lower one is a beast of a job lol...basically need to remove the entire spindle and have a vice on a stand a torch set up and a real big hammer and C clamp/ball joint set up.
Lift one front corner of the van high enough so that the wheel is off of the ground. Take your hands and grab the tire at 12 & 6 o'clock. Try to wiggle the tire in & out at the top & bottom. A worn ball joint will cause the tire / wheel to move. If you look at the ball joint while you try to move the wheel, you will be able to see the ball joint move... when it is bad. To check upper control arm bushings and steering tie-rods, grab the wheel / tire at 9 & 3 o'clock. Wiggle the wheel side to side and look at the control arm bushings & tie-rod ends.
That's a nice induction heater and worked worked pretty good on that stubborn nut. Pretty funny Thomas when you said I'm going slow for your entertainment :)
Perfecto! Again, tnx for this movies! Finished up lunch while watching this, and now ill crack on with changing on both sides :D Best regards from Norway!
Today I halfway done mine and I was thinking at you . Mine is wayyyyyyh more tightl. The one sides stuff get lose without penetrating fluid the stuff on the driver side ..... needs a torch a 1kg hammer , a lot of bad words , tears and a breaker bar
Thomas EXOVCDS Greek , I speak about factories, mothers etc etc . So I used a jack to ( try ) pressing it out , all the weight was on the lower side of the Ball joint ( it should pop out ) but nooooooo this mother ..... didn't move . I have up on it and will let my mechanic have "fun" with it
But not for much longer... would have popped out of that socket soon. Not one of our regular customers like this owner. Although I could feel the play in the joint, it was still in the early stage of failure.
Hey Thomas! Thank you for this video. I’m planning to do some work on my VW Vanagon. Was wondering if you have a video of replacing the lower ball joint on a t3 Vanagon? I’ve been searching for one on TH-cam and can’t find one.
I don't have one for the lower ball joint. I remove the steering knuckle and heat up the knuckle around the ball joint with a torch... then I knock the ball joint out of the knuckle (remove retaining clip first). Can probably be pressed on a press or with a ball joint press, but I don't have either that will fit (for removal). To press it back in, I use the shop hydraulic press.
Hello Sir, i would like to ask if you noticed what carries the weight when original rims installed. With my t3 it seems like the lug nuts are carrying the weight instead of the hug it looked like the same with this one but i am not sure. Can you help me with that. I am concerned since i have never seem lug nuts are used to carry the weight. Are they strong enough to withstand the shear force? Thank you
You are concerned that the center of the wheel is NOT tight against the wheel hub? That's the way it is. You might want to ask: th-cam.com/users/EngineeringExplained
Thomas EXOVCDS i am sorry i might explained myself wrong. Usually the weight of the car is on the wheel hub not on the lug nuts. But i recently bought original rims for my t3 which are the same in the video. With these rims i noticed that there is no contact with the hub ( with saying hub i am talling about the part that go through the center of the rim [the speedo cable coming out from that part or there are castle nuts on the rear wheels on that part] i assume usually this part of the car carries the weight not lug nuts). Since there is no contact between the center of the hub and the rims all the weight is on the lug nuts. I am a mechanical engineer too but i dont know what material these nuts are made from and i have never seen anything like this. I asked my teachers at the university and they said it is okay but for a more experienced opinion i wanted to ask you if you have ever seen a problem that a t3 with a broken or damaged lug nuts because of the shear stresses?
Thomas EXOVCDS sorry for long post i dont know how to explain it cleary this is why i tried to explain in a couple ways so if i have more chances to express myself :) have nice day thank you so much
I know what you meant... that's the way VW has it on all the old vans. I'm no engineer, so your Teachers should have more information about this than I do. All I know is that the bolts also center / align the wheel, so that the wheel is centered around the hub / bearing housing. My BMW needs centering rings that contact the hub & center the wheel... or wheel vibration will occur. I always thought the vans should have the same problem, but they don't.
Thank you very much, i feel relieved now. I was scared to see my wheel pass near me to freedom when i hit a bump. It is good to hear that they built this way :). Thank you, have a good one sir.
Another terrific video. I actually liked the fact that you did all the procedures in real time. Helps me understand how long the process takes. Also thanks for the torque settings. My parts arrive on Monday.
Also learned a new German word: Feierabend.
Thank you for watching!
Struggled with getting enough leverage on the pry bar when tightening the big bottom nut. Resorted to using an 11mm wrench on the bottom of the ball joint. Everything worked out perfectly. Thanks again!
8mm Allen-screw broke. Couldn't use your method,8:11. Trying to remove shaft. Not working. Bought a balljoint separator, but screw of the ball point was too long for this tool.Cut it with a proxxon mini flex. Still not working. Cut the ball point for a minor mass, when cooling. Only a stump remains. Using a hammer with a counter mass, hammering around the joint. Heating up the joint, attaching the ballpoint seperator and using cooling spray - 40°C, increase pressure. OK. Maybe this helps for the same situation. Thank you very much for this excellent tutorial.
Sorry to hear about the struggle you have had with the ball joint. Most of the times they pop out even quicker than what it did in my video.... and sometimes, like in your case, they just don't want to come out. =(
handy vid, cleaned up everything well and lubed it before I started. Took 1hr 30mins of very easy work, so thanks!
Thank you for watching... thanks for sharing your DIY success.
Thanks once again Thomas - just changed out an UBJ in about an hour thanks to your guidance. One more tomorrow!
Thank you for watching!
Hey. I know this is an old vid but it saved me as I could not figure out how to get that 24mm nut on my UBJ. Pry bar! Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for not only teaching and filming this, thanks for the tip to jump aheae!
Thank you for watching!
Some of my wrenches are bent like that, but yours is for a reason. Great work bud.
So you're saying you have a strong arm and bend wrenches by accident? :-)
Ha ha.
Thank you, very useful!
How about a lower one?
Sorry, don't have a video for that. Thank you for watching!
lower one is a beast of a job lol...basically need to remove the entire spindle and have a vice on a stand a torch set up and a real big hammer and C clamp/ball joint set up.
Will these cause a front end clunking sound while driving - when worn out? Nice video Thanks!
They can. Thank you for watching.
Great video! How do you test all joints to know if they're bad?
Lift one front corner of the van high enough so that the wheel is off of the ground. Take your hands and grab the tire at 12 & 6 o'clock. Try to wiggle the tire in & out at the top & bottom. A worn ball joint will cause the tire / wheel to move. If you look at the ball joint while you try to move the wheel, you will be able to see the ball joint move... when it is bad.
To check upper control arm bushings and steering tie-rods, grab the wheel / tire at 9 & 3 o'clock. Wiggle the wheel side to side and look at the control arm bushings & tie-rod ends.
That's a nice induction heater and worked worked pretty good on that stubborn nut. Pretty funny Thomas when you said I'm going slow for your entertainment :)
Some guys complain that I'm not using enough power tools / taking too long! :-)
I know...there's always those who will complain. And if you use the power tools, the others will complain because it's too loud. You just can't win :)
Thomas EXOVCDS great repair jobs I could watch you all day very intresting
easy to follow
Perfecto! Again, tnx for this movies! Finished up lunch while watching this, and now ill crack on with changing on both sides :D Best regards from Norway!
Thank you for watching!
Super helpful video that made this job easy! Thank you.
Thank you for watching! Don't forget to get the alignment checked!
and here I was, thinking I needed a press. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for watching!
The Mini Ductor is handy ! I have to do it the old fashion way with a torch .
More stink... but can also help you stay warm!
Today I halfway done mine and I was thinking at you . Mine is wayyyyyyh more tightl. The one sides stuff get lose without penetrating fluid the stuff on the driver side ..... needs a torch a 1kg hammer , a lot of bad words , tears and a breaker bar
A lot of bad words... German, Greek or English? Which is your favorite language to swear in? LOL
Thomas EXOVCDS Greek , I speak about factories, mothers etc etc . So I used a jack to ( try ) pressing it out , all the weight was on the lower side of the Ball joint ( it should pop out ) but nooooooo this mother ..... didn't move . I have up on it and will let my mechanic have "fun" with it
Thomas EXOVCDS 0:49 you are duty minded ... like me
@@type2523 =)
It looks like the rust was the only thing holding that ball joint together.
But not for much longer... would have popped out of that socket soon. Not one of our regular customers like this owner. Although I could feel the play in the joint, it was still in the early stage of failure.
Hey Thomas! Thank you for this video. I’m planning to do some work on my VW Vanagon. Was wondering if you have a video of replacing the lower ball joint on a t3 Vanagon? I’ve been searching for one on TH-cam and can’t find one.
I don't have one for the lower ball joint.
I remove the steering knuckle and heat up the knuckle around the ball joint with a torch... then I knock the ball joint out of the knuckle (remove retaining clip first). Can probably be pressed on a press or with a ball joint press, but I don't have either that will fit (for removal). To press it back in, I use the shop hydraulic press.
Hello Sir, i would like to ask if you noticed what carries the weight when original rims installed. With my t3 it seems like the lug nuts are carrying the weight instead of the hug it looked like the same with this one but i am not sure. Can you help me with that. I am concerned since i have never seem lug nuts are used to carry the weight. Are they strong enough to withstand the shear force? Thank you
You are concerned that the center of the wheel is NOT tight against the wheel hub? That's the way it is. You might want to ask: th-cam.com/users/EngineeringExplained
Thomas EXOVCDS i am sorry i might explained myself wrong. Usually the weight of the car is on the wheel hub not on the lug nuts. But i recently bought original rims for my t3 which are the same in the video. With these rims i noticed that there is no contact with the hub ( with saying hub i am talling about the part that go through the center of the rim [the speedo cable coming out from that part or there are castle nuts on the rear wheels on that part] i assume usually this part of the car carries the weight not lug nuts). Since there is no contact between the center of the hub and the rims all the weight is on the lug nuts. I am a mechanical engineer too but i dont know what material these nuts are made from and i have never seen anything like this. I asked my teachers at the university and they said it is okay but for a more experienced opinion i wanted to ask you if you have ever seen a problem that a t3 with a broken or damaged lug nuts because of the shear stresses?
Thomas EXOVCDS sorry for long post i dont know how to explain it cleary this is why i tried to explain in a couple ways so if i have more chances to express myself :) have nice day thank you so much
I know what you meant... that's the way VW has it on all the old vans.
I'm no engineer, so your Teachers should have more information about this than I do. All I know is that the bolts also center / align the wheel, so that the wheel is centered around the hub / bearing housing. My BMW needs centering rings that contact the hub & center the wheel... or wheel vibration will occur. I always thought the vans should have the same problem, but they don't.
Thank you very much, i feel relieved now. I was scared to see my wheel pass near me to freedom when i hit a bump. It is good to hear that they built this way :). Thank you, have a good one sir.
I like that electric heater. Nice
You don't have one yet? Princess Auto might still be open!! Go... fly like the wind!
+Thomas EXOVCDS nope they don't sell them. I'm waiting for a. wingwang delivery. 😂
Better order two!
+Thomas EXOVCDS good idea , the other for parts.
LOL!
heat wire mean make nut get off ?
Yes... the nut gets hot and it gets bigger / make it loose.
how you make or buy?
My boss buy:
www.theinductor.com/induction-heating-products/mini-ductor/models/md-700ce-110v-uk
Man that mighty ductor looked awful handy!!
Sure is! I might have called it wrong... Mini Ductor (but it sure is mighty).
I remember hub cap when I was kid (8 years old)
Volkswagen has had some nice hub caps over the years... the old ones are my favourite!
critical not to over tighten that nut 110 Nm basically wrist tight
Thanks brother, helped a lot. Love your little karate (?) guy!!
Bill Kenneke MC Hammer... Hammer time!!!
THX !!
Thank you for watching!
I wish keep it
Thanks for uploading that (-:
Thank you for watching!
No need of power tools, a 24mm ratchet spanner should do the trick. And some wire brushing before starting.
Good tip, thanks!
Definitely cheaper to modify Craftsman wrenches as opposed to Snap-on or Mac!
Yup!
That's one of the reasons why I never threw out my old Ukrainian Tire or Craftsman tools.. they will come in handy the day I need to make a tool work.
quitting time! I had to google it
Well done!
Not to often you see non vented front brake rotors.
They are becoming rare aren't they!
Time to go home, I didn't have to Google it. (ha ha)
Feierabend ist der schönste abend!
Genau.
hand clean the bolts or pleasure them ? hmmmmmm check your hand gesticulation 😝 lol
Had to look up gesticulation... then I had to find the spot in the video where I said that... then I saw the hand movement. Haha